Released & Regreased

 

A slotted “screen break” and the arrival of this Park FR4 freewheel remover presented the ideal opportunity to tackle the Teenage Dream’s Regina freewheel. I’d applied several helpings of PTFE lube and left it marinating for several days, so a sporting chance of it budging and without taking the Athena’s hub threads into the bargain. I switched the Shimano head on this Cyclo tool for the Park, gave the freewheel another firm blast of PTFE lube, then engaged the tool. No surprise that the Park’s splines meshed beautifully with the Regina’s.  

However, despite some considerable effort, nothing was moving. Another blast of PTFE-based lube was followed with a few deft taps from an “engineer’s” mallet to the tool handle. Holding the wheel firmly with my left hand, applying considerable pressure to the tool with my right while grunting like an 80’s shot-putter secured movement and ultimately release.  

Threads unscathed, I decided to give the freewheel a liberal helping of Muc-Off fast-acting degreaser to remove congealed brown gloop. A mix of propellent and strong solvent rapidly bites into the grot, breaking it down but still demands liberal stiff-brush agitation.  

Dinner plate clean required a subsequent helping of Squirt Bike Wash Concentrate, some further agitation, and finally, a warm water rinse.  same story with the hub threads. As I’ve said in an earlier post, they’re not badly “out of round” rather nuisance value, and now is the time to correct that.  

At this stage, deadlines were my priority, so I packed everything away, penciling in the hub strip and re-grease for another time. Not least as I couldn’t find my 14mm cone spanners and am “on the clock” during the week. Sure enough, I found my cone spanners and got busy on Saturday afternoon, following my first AstraZeneca COVID shot.  

Everything came apart reasonably easily, although the existing grease had turned the consistency of gravy. 9 bearings each side and the cones were decanted into a magnetic parts bowl. I gave everything a liberal blast of the Muc -Off High-Pressure Quick Drying Degreaser - Chain & Cassette and a quick clean rag scrubbing later brought everything up to spec.  

No signs of pitting/similar damage, so I pumped a load of Park into the races, repatriated the bearings, setting them into the thick green gloop, before adding another generous piping over the top. Same story with the hollow axle before sliding this through and winding the cones and other components home.  

Getting the tension bang on took some perseverance-so close each time but still a fraction too tight/slack. Paid off in the end. The front wheel was much easier, although again, the grease had turned to an oily brown gravy. Two blasts of the Muc -Off High-Pressure Quick Drying Degreaser - Chain & Cassette dismissed this and evaporated I the time required to locate the Park Grease.   

I’ll drop the wheels to a well-respected local builder for truing, as opportunity presents.  Common side effects (head cold type symptoms-aching limbs and minor headaches etc) kicked in that evening. I managed a ride beforehand and another the following morning but felt distinctly rough during the day, then onward. 

 

Mornings remain cold and crisp and at the lower end of single figures. I’ve stuck with tights and winter booties and alternate between winter weight, long sleeve jerseys and summer weight models with these Primal Comic Book Thermal arm warmers PRIMAL COMIC BOOK THERMAL ARM WARMERS | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) and a technical jacket. This 7mesh Cypress Hybrid Jacket 7mesh Cypress Hybrid Cycling Jacket | Seven Day Cyclist being a great default. Gilets are another wise investment.  

The really thin, shell types are great for contingencies and very changeable conditions since they pack small but I’m rather fond of middleweight designs with a laminated fabric, which will keep the torso temperate and relatively dry. They often have pockets, which is another welcome touch. My preference is for those with the classic three terrace rear, zippered breast up front, perfect for stowing compact camera and similar tech, I’d want ready access to.  

      

Wax, Wheels, Caps & Brexit Bite

Easter’s bitterness has given way to fluctuating temperatures, so I’ve switched the wardrobe around a bit. ¾ lengths and shorts have been making appearances and I’ve switched to summer-weight caps, socks and gloves. Models such as this Buff Pack BUFF PACK BIKE CAP | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) wick faster, which is also helpful when conditions turn showery.  

A decent peak will also protect the eyes and face from the sun, blustery winds, and airborne particles. April’s changeable nature means I’ve been sticking with photochromic eyewear, which adjusts to different light progressively and accurately. This eliminates any need to switch lenses should strong sunlight give way to dull and overcast conditions. Liner-type gloves are another useful bridge between seasons, although look for those with some form of palm padding. I’m still very fond of these Specialized, which sport nice ulnar defending detailing.

 

The Bat wax is also notable for its cleanliness and staying prowess. Admittedly, I've not encountered monsoon rains (but few people would go the wax route, knowing this was forecast). However, it seems temperature stable. I was surprised to learn 'it's a synthetic wax employing a water-based carrier. The synthetic particles are apparently more tunable, hence it’s a thinner layer, which attracts less dirt, whereas old school formulas tend to trap the grit in the top layer and eventually flake away, leaving a thin lubricant layer behind.   

Clean drivetrains are good practice full stop. Essential when switching between lubricants, especially those of different genres. Wax formulas ae particularly sensitive to any pre-existing lubricant, especially petrochemicals. My fixed gear winter/trainer’s drivetrain being a case in point.  

I had treated it to a good, but not meticulous clean, hence why the Univega’s transmission remains pristine, and it quickly assumed a superficially scuzzy state. Deep cleans are essential when fitting fresh chains, especially if you are opting for something water/emulsion-based.  

Otherwise, the pre-existing layer will simply float the wax away. Having established this was just unsightly and wasn’t impairing performance, I removed the drive side cranks and treated the ring and chain to a liberal helping of degreaser. In this instance, I reached for Squirt Bike Cleaner Concentrate SQUIRT BIKE CLEANER CONCENTRATE | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) and chased any residual with Pure Bike Degreaser PURE BIKE DEGREASER | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) 

I was surprised by the glaze of impacted, matted ceramic and wax formulas clinging to the Genetic Tibia ring GENETIC TIBIA TRACK CRANKS & RING | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) but this combination stripped it bare, with some gentle agitation and a liberal, warm water rinse.  Steve has been quite impressed with Muc-Off Bio Degreaser MUC-OFF BIO DEGREASER | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com)  

Dried, refitted and tension tweaked, I applied another helping of Bat Wax and left curing for seven hours, before popping out for an evening blast. I’d passed the 250mile mark on Ursula before things turned a bit filmy, so just added another light coat, put the old girl away and then left the Bat Wax curing for another 24 hours. Drizzled a couple of drops on the cleat mechanisms and the Kinekt 2.1 Seatpost’s moving components KINEKT 2.1 SUSPENSION SEAT POST | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com), since I was there, and the post was emitting a very subtle squeak.  

Decided it was also time to do some refurbishment of the Teenage dream’s wheelset. Nothing major, since they are basically true (although would benefit from a wheel builder’s touch) and have seldom seen wet roads these past 30 years. 

 

However, I’d need to whip the freewheel and I may as well strip and regrease the Athena hub, while I’m there. The freewheel was caked in a waxy glaze, which was useful enough protection in storage but looked scuzzy, so dismissed and I treated the freewheel to liberal helpings of heavy-duty PTFE lube, while I wait for the Park Tool FR4 freewheel removal tool to show up.  

Thanks to the combination of Covid 19 and Brexit, stocks are low, and the original, proposed supplier was talking in terms of 5-6 weeks lead time. Another says two weeks, so I’ve gone that route. These long lead times are also affecting other industries- replacement car components being one of them. Particularly (although not exclusively) those for European marques. Then, of course, there are additional tariffs, likely arising from the UK’s hard Brexit- an unwelcome double whammy.  

That aside; nice to see that Park still offers one, since while fond of retro, I’m not paying fancy prices. That goes for cars, motorcycles, cameras too.  I’m very attached to the “Teenage Dream” and it’s still a joy to ride, but quaint by contemporary standards. Ah but while the nostalgic is misguided and arguably unable to embrace the future, the cynic knows the price of everything and the value of nothing...