Scuzz! Purging Those Drivetrain Demons

 Much as I expected, the snow turned to slush and ultimately lots of surface water. Looking at the Univega’s chain, the Zefal Extra Wet Ceramic Chain Lube ZEFAL EXTRA WET NANO CERAMIC CHAIN LUBE | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) was beginning to look a little filmy, and the chain’s side plates looking like they’d been immersed in instant gravy granules. Interrogation of the cassette and derailleur jockey wheels suggested we were beyond cat lick and top-up.  

An opportunity to test this Pure Bike Degreaser a quick test run. Pure prides itself on being petrochemical free and I’m all for products that are kind and yet effective. This is a citrus-based grime gobbler. However, caution is still required with a lot of plant-based products, solvents, specifically, given the potential for a loud, roof-lifting explosion. 

 

In this instance, there’s nothing to go “bang” but plenty of warnings around potentially serious eye damage. Citrus formulas can also be a little harsh on the skin, so examination gloves and safety glasses are a good bet. In common with a lot of lube-strippers, its designed to be rinsed with water.  

Anyhow, my intended transmission grooming evolved into a full-blown, top to toe wash and Carnauba waxing.  

Now I like waxing and I like testing waxes. Mine is from a protectant (rather than aesthetic) perspective. Opinions vary and to be honest, it will depend on a number of factors, but in my view, bikes should be treated to a good quality paste/liquid wax at least three times per year.  

Doing so nourishes the paintwork and protects finishes from the elements-sap, salt, UV light etc, 

Waxes also prevent water and muck from sticking so readily, making cleaning easier. Basic car types are good enough, for the most part, although those, including this Muc-Off Miracle Shine, offer a better sheen and last a bit longer if you can justify the initial asking price. However, a little goes a long way, so the cost levels out, over time. 

Back to the degreaser, it wasn’t as voracious as I was anticipating-at least on the gunky remnants clinging to my Univega’s cassette. I’d left it a few minutes to marinate, worked in into the sprockets, side plates, and Raval ring (while avoiding any splashes/similar, to settle on painted surfaces.)  

This was subsequently rinsed with warm water, while I simultaneously worked a gel bike cleaner into a lather, using the Zefal ZB Wash Brush ZEFAL ZB WASH BRUSH | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com). Much as I suspected, the Pure needs agitating with a transmission/similarly stiff brush. Therefore, best to strip cassettes, chains, rings etc, and pop them in a makeshift/parts washer, rather than tackle them in situ.   

In my experience, bristle plots eventually cultivate greasy, cross-contaminating colic.  

The Zefal ZB Wash Brush has just succumbed to that, so I poured some Weldtite Citrus degreaser into a clear punnet. I worked this into the bristles and left the brush marinating for a couple of days, before flushing through with very warm water.  

Elsewhere, I’ve applied some ACF50 to the cleats, to head off fastener seizure and brown taint on the nickel-plated cleat mechanisms.  A sudden reversion to mild weather means snow has melted, and the return of waterlogged roads.  

However, I’ve resisted switching back to the Kojak, since temperatures could plummet in the coming week, courtesy of Storm Christoph, turning greasy roads to ice rinks and some reports promising 1.5 feet (45cm) of snow.     

Dual-sided SPDs have been my default for a very long time-effortless engagement/release, great power transfer, and easy to walk in, especially when roads and pavements become skating rinks.  

For others, dual-sided models such as these Genetic Switch GENETIC SWITCH PEDALS | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com)  are the best of both worlds. I’m quite fond of them, too. Especially for commuting and other “working” bikes, since they permit a wider choice of footwear.   

Ending this post on the opening note, here’s my review of the Weldtite Bike Cleaner WELDTITE BIKE CLEANER | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) 

 

Waxing Lyrical

 The Pure Dry Lube is showing the characteristics of a traditional, petrochemical formula- the sort made from refined paraffin wax and solvent. It’s turned molten and some has migrated to the chain’s side plates, though not the cassette, which surprises me.  

Still plenty on the rollers, 225 miles in and I was expecting to purge a gungy looking beard that had accumulated along the side plates, jockey wheels etc. I was pleasantly surprised to discover it has scabbed off, during subsequent rides.   

Wax formulas, without a PTFE, or similar additives mean chains tend to succumb to light, filmy corrosion, following wet rides. Another reason why I don’t go this route with cleat hardware and others prone to getting blasted with dodgy water.  True to type, the Pure has done just that. Not an issue with the more sophisticated dry blends.  

While they will generally run cleanly, waxes  require a more disciplined approach to drivetrain cleanliness, first time round, hence the argument these have more benefit to racers-time triallists and mountain bikers (during the summer months), rather than commuters.  

One I concur with in some respects. Arguably, working bikes should be ready n’ reliable, with minimal faff. Wet lubes are an obvious choice and will certainly go the distance, but as I’ve said many times before, the side plates will need wiping regularly. Otherwise, accumulated grit/grime turning into a grinding paste, chomping through your bike’s drivetrain.  

If you’re pressed for time, one of the pour n’ go sort, such as Finish Line 1-Step Cleaner and Lubricant https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/finish-lineMight be an easier proposition, even if these require more frequent reapplication.  Once the existing Pure dry lube is spent (coinciding with the chain, I suspect) I may well revert to the low-friction Zefal Pro-Dry Lube.https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/zefal-pro-dry-lube This incidentally appears fully compatible with the Pro Gold Prop Link Chain Lube https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/pro-gold-pro-link-chain-lube if my fixed gear winter trainer’s chain is anything to go by, several weeks down the line.   

Talking of wax, I’ve treated the Univega to another high-quality waxing. Muc-Off Miricle Shine polish, this time around. It’s made using Fluro Polymer Technology and Carnauba wax. The latter is also found in high-quality furniture polish, cosmetics, and even speed boat hulls. Silicone oils are apparently employed to enhance ease of application and, it’s very quick and easy to apply.  

One coat is sufficient but if like me, you like to double up at key areas (bottom bracket shells, down tube, chainstays etc), experience suggests it prefers 24hours between coats. Rounding up this polishing theme is a guide to caring for traditional leather saddles https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/caring-for-leather-saddles . My derriere has very much bonded with the Cycles Berthoud Soulor Saddle https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/cycles-berthoud-soulor-leather-sadd 

Several weeks further down the line, the Kenda Kwick Roller continue to impress with their blend of low rolling resistance, reassuring grip and of course, puncture resistance. A greasy, wet winter may reveal some limitations (specifically the puncture repelling belt, which covers the centre strip, rather than edge to edge).  

That aside; they’re doing everything I ask of them and the slightly narrower (32mm) section is probably optimal, for my fixed gear winter/trainer’s clearances too. Elsewhere, those looking for a responsive and engaging folding bike may want to take a closer look at this Tern BYB S11 Folding Bike https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/tern-byb-s11-folding-bicycle