Just Changing A Cable

 

Needing a break from the screen, I decided my fixed gear winter/trainer needed a quick polish. Noted the brake inner wire had begun fraying, so decided I’d switch that, since it was a simple job and no time like the present right? New cable fitted; I couldn’t get the Spyre SLC calliper to behave properly. I stripped and cleaned, and things were certainly improved but not as they should be. Most annoying was the binding right pad, which despite considerable gentle coaxing and patience wouldn’t behave.

Time is a finite resource, so I swapped over to an older Spyre unit I had prepped during Ursula’s rebuild. By contrast, this behaved impeccably first time, so I pulled the inner wire through a little further. Said overhaul also led me to switch the Deda Loop bar tape for the T-One Mr Fantastic Handlebar Tape T-ONE MR FANTASTIC HANDLEBAR TAPE | cycling-not-racing , since the Deda had weathered somewhat.

The T-One Mr Fantastic Handlebar tape is still going strong a few years and three bar switches since. It’s easier to clean, compared with the embossed and similarly sturdy Acros Silicone Wrap Handlebar Tape Acros Silicone Wrap Handlebar Tape | Seven Day Cyclist too, although that was another contender.  

The bar bags were switched since I needed to remove the Oxford to perform the cable replacement. Satisfied all was well, I tackled the aesthetic and polished the frameset and carbon bottle cages, the latter had lost their lustre slightly, but this was easily recovered using some BBB Bioready wash bike shampoo and its biowax stablemate.

These are very effective for rapid cleaning of lightly soiled bikes, or those times when you’ve replaced a component and got oily fingerprints on an otherwise clean machine. Durability isn’t on par with those containing Carnauba wax, such as this Motoverde Waterless Wash & Wax | cycling-not-racing  but bargain on a few weeks in primarily dry to fair weather conditions.

Grand finale’, I gave the Muc Off AirMach Electric Mini Inflator Pro a quick test. The 32mm Pirelli Angel DTPirelli Angel DT Urban Tyre | cycling-not-racing and Schwalbe One365 were completely deflated and raised to 80 and 105psi respectively. The pump delivered the goods, but by that point, the battery was down to 30% -in theory still enough to raise another flaccid tyre, though reinforces my point about always carrying a traditional pump, just in case…I’ve also managed to raise a 26x2.3 from 0-55psi and this Maxxis RavagerMaxxis Ravager TR Tyres | cycling-not-racing (700x40) from 0-55psi with 30% battery charge remaining.

I'd made something a faux pas, believing I had 3/8" bits compatible with the Park Tw torque wrench. Further investigation contradicted this, but Madison's press officer graciously supplied a batch covering the most common jobs home mechanics are likely to undertake. Ironically, while hunting for the non-existent 3/8" bits, I found an 8mm dual end wrench-I'd been looking for that while tweaking the barrel adjuster on Denise's front stopper. I carry a crude but surprisingly effective "giveaway" spanner. Does the job without rounding off but not the most pleasant to use. I was looking (lusting after?) Specialized's Rock Combo one evening, needing a reminder of the original specification and suddenly got the idea of switching Denise's cantilevers to the Dia Compe 984D.

However, I rapidly dismissed this as change for change's sake, not least as I'd got the front Shimano CX50 honed and recently bought some fresh pads. Though it can occasionally prove a little temperamental, the rear Suntour SE is reliable and was dirt cheap- hence I'd bought a second NOS (New Old Stock). I’ve also reached my conclusions regarding the Pirelli Cinturato Pirelli Cinturato Gravel M Tyre | cycling-not-racing. There are some minor shortcomings but they seem particularly suited to my riding environments.  

The Stronglight A9 headset was still behaving impeccably and had been given a liberal helping of Juice Bearing Juice. I'd made a boot from scrap butyl tube for the lower race. However, would be worth getting in some spares £2.99 or thereabouts. I should point out this version employs ball, not cartridge bearings.  

Always better to replace the bearings before brinelling and pitting strikes, although keeping them well-greased and properly adjusted is key to keeping the elements out and general longevity. During this phase, I also noted some minor slop in Ursula’s FSA, so eliminated that and nipped the stem bolts snug using the Oxford Torque 2-24nm Torque wrench.   

White Out

 120 miles or so hence, on the Schwalbe Billy Bonkers, the front succumbed to its first puncture. Two sharp flints embedded in mucky stuff buried inside the casing, nicking the tube. Tube swapped, sharps purged, and tyre reinstated, I couldn’t let the front brake lie. A quick, nuanced tweak of the straddle wire’s tension and boom! Both the Shimano BRCX50 and Genetic are now dialed-in, beautifully.   

I’d tired of fearsome weather front scaremongering, planning to leave the Billy Bonkers in situ and switch to the fixed, which still sported the 35mm Schwalbe Winter Plus-both bases covered. I love the Billy Bonkers’ quick, supple magic carpet ride and wet-weather cornering prowess is better than I’d expected, along wet, greasy lanes.  

However, more reputable sources were suggesting extensive ice and potentially heavy snowfall. Now was the time to switch Ursula back to spikes, before the week began. Washed, stripped the cassette of its slimy cocktail using the Weldtite Citrus Degreaser WELDTITE CITRUS DEGREASER | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com), then treated the frame to another light coat of Muc-Off Miracle Shine for some additional protection.  

Finally, some more Weldtite TF2 Ceramic Lube to the thirsty-looking chain. While an engaging ride that encourages me to go out is high on my list, a spill, or mechanical is the last thing I want, miles from home on a dark, bitterly cold/wet night.  

The Schwalbe Marathon 365 TESTED: SCHWALBE MARATHON GT 365 TYRES WINTER UPDATE (sevendaycyclist.com) were another, next-best-thing option and I’m confident the tread pattern would plough away the snow, but I prefer the reassurance afforded by spikes. They’re also a little lighter, but then the 365 are wider (2.0 inches). Sunday morning arrived and I found a modest amount of snow carpeting the landscape but nothing outlandish, so popped out on the fixed.  

Plenty of traction from the tyres, transmission and the suspension post also seem to help in this respect but biting crosswinds along exposed sections proved a little challenging. Three degrees, hence snow, not ice. However, the wind chill was dialing things down a degree, or two. The FLR Defender MTB Dry Boot FLR DEFENDER MTB DRY BOOT | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) have great thermal properties, so no issues there.  

However, mid loop, I was wishing I’d gone the Balaclava and liner gloves route. Those seeking a bit of additional damping/control could be well-served by the Kinekt Suspension Stem KINEKT SUSPENSION STEM | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) and their suspension post KINEKT 2.1 SUSPENSION SEAT POST | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com)  

However, subsequent outings have even taxed the Univega’s 26x1.75 Schwalbe Winter Plus. Though I never went “rubber up” (as I most certainly would, with a conventional tyre) they couldn’t bite into the deeply impacted stuff, thus gain traction. Some enforced (dare we say, prudent) leave saw that I turned my attention to its Stronglight Aheadset.  

 

Mudguards make a big difference, extending maintenance periods but I’d last stripped and re-greased back in the summer of 2019. Much as I expected, the bottom race still had a thin, though tangible layer of Muc-Off Bio-Grease TESTED : MUC-OFF BIO GREASE (sevendaycyclist.com) doing the job. However, replenishment was definitely due. Went for some Corrosion Block Grease.  

This is a super stiff, waterproof formula, which is supposedly highly resistant to corrosion, temperature, so should stay put a good while. I packed it thoroughly and added some to the Gusset Headlock, since opportunity presented. Corrosion Block say it will also play nicely with other greases (which isn’t always the case). Time will tell... 

Though very much in hibernation, I also decided to give the Teenage dream’s MA2/Campagnolo Athena wheelset a good polish and wax. Now almost thirty years old, they’re still tarnish-free and came up beautifully. I need to strip and re-grease the rear hub and both would benefit from a quick true.  

Nothing serious-they haven’t lived hard lives, or hit anything but after thirty years, some minor play is to be expected. I’m also researching a better-quality hoop for my Bob Yak homage trailer, primarily based on better tyre choice. The OEM bargain basement knobbly is functional enough but a high-quality slick option, would improve my experience of said cheerful beast of burden.        

Freezing filth

No, I’m not going to discuss the best ways of archiving pornography, so click away if that’s your desire and you’ve stumbled on this by mistake... December has turned very dank with freezing fog presenting some challenges. In some respects, these improve the riding experience and sharpen handling skills.  

Despite the powerful K-lite Bikepacker Pro V2 dynamo lamp K LITE BIKEPACKER PRO V2 FRONT LIGHT | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) navigating demands greater concentration, although this, coupled with the Magicshine SeeMee LEDs and a mix of day glow and retro-reflective clothing (including the Pro-Viz 360+ gilet) keeps me conspicuous along soupy lanes. 

There have been a few moments when I’ve thought it might be time to switch the Zilent2 TEST & REVIEW VEE TIRE CO ZILENT TYRES (sevendaycyclist.com) to the 42mm Continental Nordic Spike, for a bit more bite. I’ve rediscovered some laminated jerseys, which have an operating range between –5 and +10 degrees and they are reassuringly competent at these temperatures. Since we’re on the subject, here’s our general, overview guide to dressing for winter WINTER WONDERLAND TWO (sevendaycyclist.com) 

Returning from Tuesday night’s ride, I discovered the Acros Silicone Bar Wrap sporting a very tangible icy glaze. The Kinekt stem also continues to creak when the temperature plummets and damp, greasy conditions are thrown into the mix. Curiously, this doesn’t apply to the post, which works to the same principle.   

A helmet-mounted light is also handy for picking road signs etc out in the gloom. In terms of output, I’m talking 600-800lumens. Blackburn Dayblazer 800 is up to the task, although in common with the genre, battery life is quite short in the highest settings. In this respect, I would’ve been better served by its 1100lumen sibling, at comparable output.   

These conditions have also seen me apply a quick shot of ACF50 to the dynamo contacts. The bike is also filthy within a couple of rides, so by the third, I’m needing to give it a sudsy bucket washdown.

I deliberately left it a week, to get deeply crusty and as you can see from the right-hand chainstay, slurry, mud, spent diesel and seemingly, some flung chain lube.  

These conditions had almost literally stripped the Muc Off E-Bike Ceramic wet Lube too, within 125miles, which was another surprise. I was expecting it to last a little while longer. I’ve received a batch of grot busting goodies from Weldtite and Pure ranges-bang on cue.  

I decided to give the ratty looking transmission a liberal blast of the Weldtite Jet Blast degreaser before switching to the Weldtite Bikewash for a more global blow-over. This orange formula is one designed with a thirty-second standing period before you agitate with a soft brush, then rinse off. I gave ours two helpings and then inspected the frameset. No hint of streaking, or staining, which was a welcome surprise. A high-quality powder-coated finish, such as this is incredibly durable but welcomes periodic TLC. TWO TONE MAKEOVER (sevendaycyclist.com) 

Grit and similarly abrasive stuff clinging to outer cables can still (albeit relatively slowly) make inroads into the lacquer and ultimately topcoat, if left unchecked. periodic hard-paste waxing (as you should with any other painted, lacquered, anodised or polished finish) is another good move. Matt finishes are also well-catered for these days but stick with a matt-specific product.  

Minor imperfections, such as swirling and superficial scratches can be polished out with a cutting compound. Automotive types, such as T-Cut are fine but something like Crankalicious Mayo Jaune Intensive frame Cleaner TEST & REVIEW: CRANKALICIOUS MAYO JAUNE INTENSIVE FRAME CLEANER (sevendaycyclist.com) is a bit easier, since you can see the results in “real-time”; rather than needing to allow the product to haze, before buffing with a cloth and potentially adding subsequent coats.  

Good quality waxes lock the elements out, sheen in, and makes the bike easier to keep/clean. Bike dry, I also treated it to a helping of the Pure Protectant Spray. This is a water-based polish cum waxy barrier, which is best applied to the frameset and components via a clean, dry cloth.  

This maximises product life, while avoiding unwanted overspray to disc rotors/braking surfaces, saddles etc. Aside from nourishing the paintwork, it's also brought rubberised/composite surfaces back to their original lustre. Last, but not least, a quick shot of PTFE free maintenance spray to the cables, cleat mechanisms, fasteners and bushings/linkages to drive remaining moisture out and a lubricant layer behind.