Needing a break from the screen,
I decided my fixed gear winter/trainer needed a quick polish. Noted the brake
inner wire had begun fraying, so decided I’d switch that, since it was a simple
job and no time like the present right? New cable fitted; I couldn’t get the
Spyre SLC calliper to behave properly. I stripped and cleaned, and things were
certainly improved but not as they should be. Most annoying was the binding
right pad, which despite considerable gentle coaxing and patience wouldn’t
behave.
Time is a finite resource, so I swapped
over to an older Spyre unit I had prepped during Ursula’s rebuild. By contrast,
this behaved impeccably first time, so I pulled the inner wire through a little
further. Said overhaul also led me to switch the Deda Loop bar tape for the
T-One Mr Fantastic Handlebar Tape T-ONE
MR FANTASTIC HANDLEBAR TAPE | cycling-not-racing , since the Deda had
weathered somewhat.
The T-One Mr Fantastic Handlebar
tape is still going strong a few years and three bar switches since. It’s
easier to clean, compared with the embossed and similarly sturdy Acros Silicone
Wrap Handlebar Tape Acros
Silicone Wrap Handlebar Tape | Seven Day Cyclist too, although that was
another contender.
The bar bags were switched since
I needed to remove the Oxford to perform the cable replacement. Satisfied all
was well, I tackled the aesthetic and polished the frameset and carbon bottle
cages, the latter had lost their lustre slightly, but this was easily recovered
using some BBB Bioready wash bike shampoo and its biowax stablemate.
These are very effective for rapid
cleaning of lightly soiled bikes, or those times when you’ve replaced a
component and got oily fingerprints on an otherwise clean machine. Durability
isn’t on par with those containing Carnauba wax, such as this Motoverde
Waterless Wash & Wax | cycling-not-racing but bargain on a few weeks in primarily dry to
fair weather conditions.
Grand finale’, I gave the Muc Off
AirMach Electric Mini Inflator Pro a quick test. The 32mm Pirelli Angel DTPirelli
Angel DT Urban Tyre | cycling-not-racing and Schwalbe One365 were
completely deflated and raised to 80 and 105psi respectively. The pump
delivered the goods, but by that point, the battery was down to 30% -in theory
still enough to raise another flaccid tyre, though reinforces my point about
always carrying a traditional pump, just in case…I’ve also managed to raise a
26x2.3 from 0-55psi and this Maxxis RavagerMaxxis Ravager
TR Tyres | cycling-not-racing (700x40) from 0-55psi with 30% battery charge
remaining.
I'd made something a faux pas,
believing I had 3/8" bits compatible with the Park Tw torque wrench.
Further investigation contradicted this, but Madison's press officer graciously
supplied a batch covering the most common jobs home mechanics are likely to
undertake. Ironically, while hunting for the non-existent 3/8" bits, I
found an 8mm dual end wrench-I'd been looking for that while tweaking the
barrel adjuster on Denise's front stopper. I carry a crude but surprisingly
effective "giveaway" spanner. Does the job without rounding off but
not the most pleasant to use. I was looking (lusting after?) Specialized's Rock
Combo one evening, needing a reminder of the original specification and
suddenly got the idea of switching Denise's cantilevers to the Dia Compe 984D.
However, I rapidly dismissed this
as change for change's sake, not least as I'd got the front Shimano CX50 honed
and recently bought some fresh pads. Though it can occasionally prove a little
temperamental, the rear Suntour SE is reliable and was dirt cheap- hence I'd
bought a second NOS (New Old Stock). I’ve also reached my conclusions regarding
the Pirelli Cinturato Pirelli
Cinturato Gravel M Tyre | cycling-not-racing. There are some minor
shortcomings but they seem particularly suited to my riding environments.
The Stronglight A9 headset was
still behaving impeccably and had been given a liberal helping of Juice Bearing
Juice. I'd made a boot from scrap butyl tube for the lower race. However, would
be worth getting in some spares £2.99 or thereabouts. I should point out this version
employs ball, not cartridge bearings.
Always better to replace the
bearings before brinelling and pitting strikes, although keeping them well-greased
and properly adjusted is key to keeping the elements out and general longevity.
During this phase, I also noted some minor slop in Ursula’s FSA, so eliminated
that and nipped the stem bolts snug using the Oxford Torque 2-24nm Torque
wrench.