No, I’m not going to discuss the best ways of archiving pornography, so click away if that’s your desire and you’ve stumbled on this by mistake... December has turned very dank with freezing fog presenting some challenges. In some respects, these improve the riding experience and sharpen handling skills.
Despite the powerful K-lite Bikepacker Pro V2 dynamo lamp K LITE BIKEPACKER PRO V2 FRONT LIGHT | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) navigating demands greater concentration, although this, coupled with the Magicshine SeeMee LEDs and a mix of day glow and retro-reflective clothing (including the Pro-Viz 360+ gilet) keeps me conspicuous along soupy lanes.
There have been a few moments when I’ve thought it might be time to switch the Zilent2 TEST & REVIEW VEE TIRE CO ZILENT TYRES (sevendaycyclist.com) to the 42mm Continental Nordic Spike, for a bit more bite. I’ve rediscovered some laminated jerseys, which have an operating range between –5 and +10 degrees and they are reassuringly competent at these temperatures. Since we’re on the subject, here’s our general, overview guide to dressing for winter WINTER WONDERLAND TWO (sevendaycyclist.com)
Returning from Tuesday night’s ride, I discovered the Acros Silicone Bar Wrap sporting a very tangible icy glaze. The Kinekt stem also continues to creak when the temperature plummets and damp, greasy conditions are thrown into the mix. Curiously, this doesn’t apply to the post, which works to the same principle.
A helmet-mounted light is also handy for picking road signs etc out in the gloom. In terms of output, I’m talking 600-800lumens. Blackburn Dayblazer 800 is up to the task, although in common with the genre, battery life is quite short in the highest settings. In this respect, I would’ve been better served by its 1100lumen sibling, at comparable output.
These conditions have also seen me apply a quick shot of ACF50 to the dynamo contacts. The bike is also filthy within a couple of rides, so by the third, I’m needing to give it a sudsy bucket washdown.
I deliberately left it a week, to get deeply crusty and as you can see from the right-hand chainstay, slurry, mud, spent diesel and seemingly, some flung chain lube.
These conditions had almost literally stripped the Muc Off E-Bike Ceramic wet Lube too, within 125miles, which was another surprise. I was expecting it to last a little while longer. I’ve received a batch of grot busting goodies from Weldtite and Pure ranges-bang on cue.
I decided to give the ratty looking transmission a liberal blast of the Weldtite Jet Blast degreaser before switching to the Weldtite Bikewash for a more global blow-over. This orange formula is one designed with a thirty-second standing period before you agitate with a soft brush, then rinse off. I gave ours two helpings and then inspected the frameset. No hint of streaking, or staining, which was a welcome surprise. A high-quality powder-coated finish, such as this is incredibly durable but welcomes periodic TLC. TWO TONE MAKEOVER (sevendaycyclist.com)
Grit and similarly abrasive stuff clinging to outer cables can still (albeit relatively slowly) make inroads into the lacquer and ultimately topcoat, if left unchecked. periodic hard-paste waxing (as you should with any other painted, lacquered, anodised or polished finish) is another good move. Matt finishes are also well-catered for these days but stick with a matt-specific product.
Minor imperfections, such as swirling and superficial scratches can be polished out with a cutting compound. Automotive types, such as T-Cut are fine but something like Crankalicious Mayo Jaune Intensive frame Cleaner TEST & REVIEW: CRANKALICIOUS MAYO JAUNE INTENSIVE FRAME CLEANER (sevendaycyclist.com) is a bit easier, since you can see the results in “real-time”; rather than needing to allow the product to haze, before buffing with a cloth and potentially adding subsequent coats.
Good quality waxes lock the elements out, sheen in, and makes the bike easier to keep/clean. Bike dry, I also treated it to a helping of the Pure Protectant Spray. This is a water-based polish cum waxy barrier, which is best applied to the frameset and components via a clean, dry cloth.
This maximises product life, while avoiding unwanted overspray to disc rotors/braking surfaces, saddles etc. Aside from nourishing the paintwork, it's also brought rubberised/composite surfaces back to their original lustre. Last, but not least, a quick shot of PTFE free maintenance spray to the cables, cleat mechanisms, fasteners and bushings/linkages to drive remaining moisture out and a lubricant layer behind.
