Riding Out & Letting Rip

  

Progressively lighter mornings have meant I’ve switched from the mighty Sigma Buster HL 2000 SIGMA SPORT BUSTER HL 2000 | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com), to a compact Ravemen torch slipped into a jersey, or gilet pocket (for roadside inspections).   

Lighter Abus lid, especially since I spend more time on the Holdsworth and Teenage Dream. MTB biased lids, though aesthetically fine on a cross, touring, or gravel bike look weird on pure road bikes.  

5 am starts have been a theme for the past two years but have often proved the best move, in the event of poor sleep and/or periodic nightmares. While matters have been explored and addressed. I retain a small but significant and seemingly permanent disconnect from the civilian world. We have a right to our feelings; we do not have a right to negatively project them upon others. Riding as therapy is a common theme. Simon Parker is another author exploring his own journeyRIDING OUT | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) 

The Motoverde PTFE chain lube continues to impress with its longevity and staying prowess. 500 miles down the line, it behaves like a middleweight wet lube, with similar cleanliness, although conditions have been relatively dry, so I'd expect at least 700, from a single helping. Lots of brands suggest their chain lubes are also suitable for cables and other surfaces, which isn't always so. Thankfully, the Motoverde is keeping inner wires happy, ditto cleat hardware (although grease would be my default, especially during the winter months.) 

Not that I’ve needed to, but Motoverde confirmed my suspicions that it shouldn’t be topped up. Rather, drivetrain components should be thoroughly cleaned with Motoverde Drivetrain Cleaner Motoverde Drivetrain Cleaner | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com), or indeed, your stripper of choice, first. Introducing the chain checker confirms the KMC chain remains in good health. While searching for the crown race tool, I uncovered a couple of replacements, which was another welcome surprise.  

The ORP Smart horn TESTED: ORP SMART HORN (sevendaycyclist.com) has been playing flashing companion to the K-lite Bike Packer Pro dynamo- just to announce my presence to other early risers, before the lamp kicks in.  

Not needed to deploy the horn function (not sure if rabbits or red deer would respond positively to it, either). True, the Spyre SLC/ Swiss Stop Swiss Stop Catalyst Disc Rotor | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) braking upgrades certainly help on the aversion front. I’m pleased to report the Tektro RL340 are fully compatible, and I won’t be switching to a V brake compatible model.

I've adjusted the cable tension very slightly, due to periodic binding issues and added an additional strip of  Zefal Skin Armor ZEFAL SKIN ARMOR ROLL | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) on the fork leg, to prevent cable rub induced paint damage. I’ve also switched the Velo Orange Rubbery Bar Tape VELO ORANGE RUBBERY BAR TAPE | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) and Ciclovation Grind Touch CICLOVATION GRIND TOUCH BAR TAPE | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) for this 3.5mm thick Ergon Bar Tape Gravel. 

The Holdsworth and Teenage Dream’s dual-pivot Miche calipers are also extremely efficient stoppers and (especially with the upgraded front pads) I’d not revert to period-authentic single pivot designs, including the original Campagnolo Athena- much as I love their aesthetic.   

Though conditions are increasingly spring like, dawn and evenings can be tricky, so Oxford Venture Jacket OXFORD VENTURE JACKET | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) and a lightweight cap are my defaults. I’m a big fan of the Buff Pack Bike Cap BUFF PACK BIKE CAP | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) both have the advantage of packing very small, so can be slipped into jersey pockets, if not required.   

Lusso Pain Cave Summer Cap is my next in line. Both feature generous peaks to protect from the sun’s glare. I also own a more traditional Buff with a peak, which was arguably a little more versatile.   

These are great for children, protecting them from wind, chill and intense sun, given these will easily cover the neck.  The Venture jacket also has a hood, one of the few I’m really taken with. However, if you’re not, a water repellent model, such as this Prendas Ciclismo Lisboa Waterproof Cycling Cap PRENDAS CICLISMO LISBOA WATERPROOF CAP | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) 

Meaner Season

Autumn has progressed, with a much wetter flavour. Local authorities/highways departments are scrambling to patch battle-scared tarmac, while climate, conditions and budgets permit.

Temporary traffic-light control; raised ironworks and roughly lain tarmac is certainly testing rider skill, wheel build quality and tyre casings. 15 months on, my Halo White Line/Shutter Precision PD8 dynohub build https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/halo-rim-and-shutter-dynohub-disc-b   could do with a quick tweak of its spoke tension.

John Moss (who built the wheel) has kindly offered to whip it on his jig, while I’m on an East Midlands mission. I’ll swap over to the Halo Evura/SL9 https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/halo-evura-shutter-precision-sl9-dy  for a couple of weeks (and may take that route). I’ve switched to my Univega and getting some serious mileage on those Schwalbe Marathon Mondial tyres.

These continue to impress with their smooth, compliant personalities. On and sans asphalt. True, they have a puncture repelling rating of 6, whereas the 365’s are 7. However, rolling resistance is vastly superior, and I’ll be very surprised should I flat in the coming months.    

The “Motor Oil Challenge is working out, as I envisaged, 200 miles in. So far, a decent amount of 5w40 still clings to my fixed’s stainless steel chain. I’m anticipating at least 400 before replenishment’s required.

My Univega’s electroplated chain is more accommodating of lubes generally, so I’m wondering if I can sneak past the 500mile mark, on a single helping. Assuming a 9/10spd chain is good for 1100 miles, potentially two helpings of motor oil could last its lifespan. River riding, snowy, slushy conditions will put a dent in this, dictating more frequent top-ups.

Of course, price is not the only determinant when considering lubricants. I’m particularly fond of waxy ceramic types, which, when cured, are relatively dry to touch and generally maintenance free. Much nicer, when tackling a rear puncture/similar road/trailside mechanical.

I’m firmly of the little n’ often approach when it comes to maintenance and servicing. Tuning and replacing stuff as I go, rather than having set schedules. Nonetheless, I always ensure seat posts, headsets and pedals are liberally greased-twice yearly. Not to mention those little fasteners- mudguard, rack and bottle bosses.  

As we hurtle closer to winter, I’m thinking of retiring my fixed gear winter/trainer’s stainless-steel chain. Leaning toward something galvanised…May even plump for another, slightly lower fixed sprocket. Note to self…Remember to baste the hub’s threads with a luxuriously ceramic, grease!

Lithium based preps, commonly used in automotive contexts, are cheap and fine, if mating metals of similar parentage i.e. steel with steel, 7005 series aluminium alloys etc. Problem is, they’ll gobble rubberised components, including seals.

I much prefer a stout ceramic, such as White Lightning Crystal grease. https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/white-lightning-crystal-grease  Green Oil Eco-Grease https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/green-oil-ecogrease-long-ter-test  is a surprisingly stocky, non-toxic alternative.  Staying prowess is good. I’m happy using it on contact points and indeed, headsets/bottom brackets, provided the bike(s) in question are running full-length mudguards.   

Reliability and convenience are key, when it comes to enjoying winter. Treating framesets and components a liberal waxing and treating bikes to weekly sudsy bucket washes (cold water rinses first, to remove road salt and similar caustic stuff) is another sound idea.

This will lock the elements out, making it harder for gloop to stick and subsequent washing easier. Time poor riders, may find a system, such as Green Clean MX is the way forward https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/pro-green-mx-triple-pack These are also available singularly, and I’m particularly endeared to the Cycle Shine. This can be applied to a freshly washed (and rinsed) bike. No buffing or polishing required, simply allow it to cure naturally.

Post wash; quick squirts of “maintenance” spray, to cables and mechanisms, should keep them happy and dependable. Not everyone has time, or the inclination to do their own maintenance/servicing.

That’s when a good mobile mechanic, or local bike shop is worth their weight in gold. If you’re in the Tendring area, Justin Burls now offers servicing and repairs, alongside his bespoke titanium bikes/framesets http://www.burls.co.uk/sandr.html