Grease, Shims & Stoppers

The recent episodes of creaking led to methodical re-greasing of fasteners and other easily forgotten parts- across the fleet. Grease guns, though not essential, gets gooey stuff exactly where it’s needed and minimises wastage. 

 

I'm the first to admit I tend to set a glob of something suitably synthetic and waterproof into hub and headset races, giving a luxuriously sticky bed for the bearings. However, the top layer is always carefully piped in.  

Threaded stuff and contact points, such as bottom brackets, derailleur hangers, pedals and seat posts also get the piping treatment. When it comes to posts, Hollowtech cranks axles and skewers, I distribute evenly with gloved digit afterwards.

A Finish Line model has been my go-to for the best part of a decade now.  

It threads nicely on most brands’ tubes and delivery is very precise, although the flow rate can be a little slow. Enter this System EX Grease Gun. Made of metal (Stainless steel and powder-coated aluminium alloy) the nozzle is particularly giraffe-like-perfect for trafficking greasy goodness into freehubs and other recessed parts. Still summer, so I’m continuing to enjoy the Teenage Dream’s charms.   

The CST Cito have continued to impress, and we’ve had some sudden heavy downpours to test their road holding in the wet. Spoiler alert, they’ve gripped winding bends and greasy tarmac like the proverbial leech.   

Greens aren’t everyone’s choice of livery and admittedly, had I been having the frame restored now, I’d probably opt for a chrome effect base and rosso red topcoat- giving the look of a chrome rear triangle but without the nasty processes, compounded by the need for acid etch primers to make the paint stick. Oh, and the electroplate always wins, eventually. 

Now, you’d never (or at least, shouldn’t) electroplate thin wall tubing such as 531c given the filing and acids involved but some did and with the inevitable structural damage. I recall experienced frame builders recounting tales of them emerging from the methyl chloride tank disintegrating before the eyes. 

 

Some folks have suggested 531c was a good bet for smaller riders and lightweight touring. Not sure I subscribe to that. A compact bar bag and a post-mounted SQR Tour-type saddlebag are pretty much where I’d stop. I’m 70 kilos and there’s some small but tangible whip around the bottom bracket shell when powering away-especially climbing out of the saddle. Experienced frame builders have suggested additional “braze-ons” are not problematic, so long as silver, not brass is employed.  

Anyhow, I still love the RAL 6010 green, it’s a little different-not a colour I’d generally default to. I also had flashes of inspiration, ideas of going for a pursuit-type bar- I had a set of Carbon TT levers knocking around somewhere... 

However, this was also switching for its own sake. Unless of course, something suitable landed in my lap...Higher-end brake pads might be a better performance upgrade. Not that the existing aftermarket Fibrax Wet Weather and Jagwire pairings are lacking but pads and cables often reap surprising and very inexpensive performance benefits.  The Holdsworth’s Miche Primato and BBB Tech Stop pads offer superb braking, with excellent modulation and feel. No need to change here.  

I’d recently switched to the Ravemen LR 1600 Ravemen LR1600 Front Light | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) up front. It’s a light I’m very fond of, and despite using the LR500’s “watch strap” type mount, slippage hasn’t been a problem with 31.8 bars. However, this wasn’t so with the Salsa Bell Lap which are 26.0. Obviously, this would be a moot point with its lighter LR500 stablemate.RAVEMEN LR500S FRONT LIGHT | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) Indeed, since I’m not doing dark roads proper, rather wanting something to be seen by, the LR500’s flashing setting would arguably be ideal.  

Anyhow, some experimentation with shims did not offer the vice-like tenure I was seeking, and though safely packed away, the OEM LR1600 mount wasn’t to hand so I opted in favour of Sigma’s 700-lumen Buster. This, along with its 2000lumen stablemate SIGMA SPORT BUSTER HL 2000 | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) employs a thumbscrew clamp, which sorted things.  

Oh, and the flashing mode is 700lumens, so no issues when it comes to being conspicuous on dawn blasts. Rear shifting had suddenly gone off mid-ride slipping-a cable tension issue by my reckoning. I returned and found the inner wire fraying, so replaced it. A particularly quick switch on old-school, friction shift downtube levers.  

Five minutes and that included snugging down the Campagnolo Victory mech’s cable bolt and pruning the inner wire. Yes, that is a bolt, not an Allen bolt. Thankfully, I had my trusty 34-year-old Y wrench handy, so easier still. 

 

Tubes, Lubes & Tape Tribulations

 

I’ve been taking advantage of primarily dry conditions and defaulted to the Teenage Dream’s skinny-tyred charms. Down tube friction shifters aren’t everyone’s thing but these and the Campagnolo Victory mechs they command, are slick and reliable.  

Sure, I wouldn’t race with friction setups, but for training and general riding along open roads, fine. Went to pluck it from the hook for a dawn ride, only to discover the rear tyre was pancake flat.  

No matter, Ursula needed a run and I needed to double-check the Micro shift/Sun race/Shimano drivetrain was still playing nicely.  

Dialling in a stiffer spring tension was definitely the way forward. Not that I was pogo-ing, just a little too reactive for my tastes and the machine’s loftier stance. Crisp, seamless and predictable shifting, a big grin across my face as my mind roamed freely. 

Sorted the Teenage dream’s flat on my return-a sharp had nicked the rear tyre’s casing and grazed the tube, so pressure loss was, thankfully incredibly pedestrian. Struck away from the seam, so easily patched. Back into the wedge pack, as a spare. The chain was beginning to look a little thirsty.  

Nothing serious, but now was convenient. I stripped the chain with solvent, dried and switched to the Peaty’s Link Lube Dry PEATYS LINK LUBE DRY CHAIN LUBE | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com). Curing times are less convenient than the Tru Tension Banana Slip All weather LubeTRU TENSION TUNGSTEN ALL WEATHER LUBE | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) but its clean and surprisingly durable.  

In common with other waxy type dry lubes, residual stuff clinging to the freewheel/cassette gets reclaimed by the chain, extending topping up times. Ursula is still running the third helping and I exceeded 400miles on the second. Chances are, I’ll switch to The Peaty’s Link Lube Wet, come the next replacement chain, which will probably coincide with October.

  

The Link Lube Wet is proving a great fit for the fixed’s KMC chain-keeping it serene and quiet. Both machines sport silicone bar wraps and I’m a huge fan of their damping and grip-hell and high water. The one minor downside, especially with bright colours, is the ease at which they accumulate grimy patinas.  

On the plus side, they can be tossed in the wash at 30 degrees, when really sullied. However, this is hardly the most desirable route when you’ve just fixed a flat by the roadside and grabbed the bars with slightly oily digits.  

Dark colours are the best bet, especially for daily drivers but then again, I like something quite bold for winter. Foaming type waterless cleaners get the worst out but be prepared to give them a regular tickling with a medium stiff brush (I’m really fond of Oxford Products Tyre ScrubTESTED: OXFORD PRODUCTS TYRE SCRUB BRUSH (sevendaycyclist.com) dipped in neat degreaser/bike wash concentrate and rinse with warm, then cold water.     As if by magic, some Velo Orange Rubbery Bar Tape arrived in the post-Thank you Connor.  I’ve gone for black but white, or a tan brown are the alternatives. Rubbery texture aside, it’s also 3.5mm thick, which promises excellent damping.  

The nights and mornings are gradually becoming darker. I run the K-Lite dynamos during the day but now the mornings are getting darker, blinkies are engaged for most rides-usually the Ravemen CL05RAVEMEN CL05 SENSORED REAR LIGHT | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) and CL06 RAVEMEN CL06 SENSORED REAR LIGHT | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) but I’ve also taken to mounting the Moon Sheild X Ultra MOON SHIELD X AUTO REAR LIGHT REVIEW? (sevendaycyclist.com) on Ursula’s Carradice SQR Tour.  

A nice height, closely aligned with driver eye levels. It’s a model that is slightly “Marmite”. Some (such as yours truly) think it’s fabulous, others feel it’s anything but user-friendly. There are 9 modes in total, which is excessive by some standards, and I must admit, I default to the flashing modes, since for me, they strike the best balance between output and economy.  

I’ve also needed to add a shim between the K-lite Bike Packer Ultra lamp and Velo Orange mount, since the former ad a tendency to migrate upwards-very slowly-washboard tarmac being the main culprit. Aside from being mildly irritating to me, I didn’t want it dazzling oncoming traffic. Nothing a quick delve through the bodge box and two fresh cable ties couldn’t solve.  

To date, I haven’t given much thought to replacing Ursula’s rear Schwalbe Marathon Mondial DD. It’s still perfectly serviceable. The Schwalbe Marathon GT 365TESTED: SCHWALBE MARATHON GT 365 TYRES WINTER UPDATE (sevendaycyclist.com) is an obvious substitution. These are exceptionally reliable and extremely durable. However, they are also hefty, and I fancy something sprightlier.  

There is still a reasonable amount of decent quality 26inch rubber around but it’s losing favour, just as 27inch did, I the late 80s. Supply issues are another problem here in the UK. Masked by the pandemic, European manufacturers are in no hurry to export to the UK, given the added paperwork and delays, which are likely to worsen in the coming months.