Grease, Shims & Stoppers

The recent episodes of creaking led to methodical re-greasing of fasteners and other easily forgotten parts- across the fleet. Grease guns, though not essential, gets gooey stuff exactly where it’s needed and minimises wastage. 

 

I'm the first to admit I tend to set a glob of something suitably synthetic and waterproof into hub and headset races, giving a luxuriously sticky bed for the bearings. However, the top layer is always carefully piped in.  

Threaded stuff and contact points, such as bottom brackets, derailleur hangers, pedals and seat posts also get the piping treatment. When it comes to posts, Hollowtech cranks axles and skewers, I distribute evenly with gloved digit afterwards.

A Finish Line model has been my go-to for the best part of a decade now.  

It threads nicely on most brands’ tubes and delivery is very precise, although the flow rate can be a little slow. Enter this System EX Grease Gun. Made of metal (Stainless steel and powder-coated aluminium alloy) the nozzle is particularly giraffe-like-perfect for trafficking greasy goodness into freehubs and other recessed parts. Still summer, so I’m continuing to enjoy the Teenage Dream’s charms.   

The CST Cito have continued to impress, and we’ve had some sudden heavy downpours to test their road holding in the wet. Spoiler alert, they’ve gripped winding bends and greasy tarmac like the proverbial leech.   

Greens aren’t everyone’s choice of livery and admittedly, had I been having the frame restored now, I’d probably opt for a chrome effect base and rosso red topcoat- giving the look of a chrome rear triangle but without the nasty processes, compounded by the need for acid etch primers to make the paint stick. Oh, and the electroplate always wins, eventually. 

Now, you’d never (or at least, shouldn’t) electroplate thin wall tubing such as 531c given the filing and acids involved but some did and with the inevitable structural damage. I recall experienced frame builders recounting tales of them emerging from the methyl chloride tank disintegrating before the eyes. 

 

Some folks have suggested 531c was a good bet for smaller riders and lightweight touring. Not sure I subscribe to that. A compact bar bag and a post-mounted SQR Tour-type saddlebag are pretty much where I’d stop. I’m 70 kilos and there’s some small but tangible whip around the bottom bracket shell when powering away-especially climbing out of the saddle. Experienced frame builders have suggested additional “braze-ons” are not problematic, so long as silver, not brass is employed.  

Anyhow, I still love the RAL 6010 green, it’s a little different-not a colour I’d generally default to. I also had flashes of inspiration, ideas of going for a pursuit-type bar- I had a set of Carbon TT levers knocking around somewhere... 

However, this was also switching for its own sake. Unless of course, something suitable landed in my lap...Higher-end brake pads might be a better performance upgrade. Not that the existing aftermarket Fibrax Wet Weather and Jagwire pairings are lacking but pads and cables often reap surprising and very inexpensive performance benefits.  The Holdsworth’s Miche Primato and BBB Tech Stop pads offer superb braking, with excellent modulation and feel. No need to change here.  

I’d recently switched to the Ravemen LR 1600 Ravemen LR1600 Front Light | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) up front. It’s a light I’m very fond of, and despite using the LR500’s “watch strap” type mount, slippage hasn’t been a problem with 31.8 bars. However, this wasn’t so with the Salsa Bell Lap which are 26.0. Obviously, this would be a moot point with its lighter LR500 stablemate.RAVEMEN LR500S FRONT LIGHT | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) Indeed, since I’m not doing dark roads proper, rather wanting something to be seen by, the LR500’s flashing setting would arguably be ideal.  

Anyhow, some experimentation with shims did not offer the vice-like tenure I was seeking, and though safely packed away, the OEM LR1600 mount wasn’t to hand so I opted in favour of Sigma’s 700-lumen Buster. This, along with its 2000lumen stablemate SIGMA SPORT BUSTER HL 2000 | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) employs a thumbscrew clamp, which sorted things.  

Oh, and the flashing mode is 700lumens, so no issues when it comes to being conspicuous on dawn blasts. Rear shifting had suddenly gone off mid-ride slipping-a cable tension issue by my reckoning. I returned and found the inner wire fraying, so replaced it. A particularly quick switch on old-school, friction shift downtube levers.  

Five minutes and that included snugging down the Campagnolo Victory mech’s cable bolt and pruning the inner wire. Yes, that is a bolt, not an Allen bolt. Thankfully, I had my trusty 34-year-old Y wrench handy, so easier still. 

 

Race Against Time

 

 

No, I haven’t taken up time trialling (although I’m aware I’ve threatened to do so at several points during the last fifteen years). Maybe it’s a midlife thing but I'm increasingly feeling that time is slipping through my fingers and a relentless need to press on with things. In many respects this is positive, making the most of each day but it can also be exhausting-mentally. 

 

Dry, balmy conditions have meant plenty of extended playtimes on the Teenage Dream and I'm continually impressed by how well the CST Cito accelerate and handle. For me at least, 100-105psi seem their sweet spot and even the familiar tang of melting asphalt and stray, loose chippings haven’t held them back. If the balmy weather continues, I may pluck the Holdsworth from hibernation, give it a quick waxing using the Motoverde Waterless Wash & Wax and rack up some early morning summer miles Motoverde Waterless Wash & Wax | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com).  

Similar story with the Maxxis Re Fuse, which have also continued to impress with their handling and relative compliance when run at 63-65psi. Dependability is also very favourable. I was expecting positive things, given their casings are an upgrade on the Silk Sheild system employed in the Maxxis Overdrive Excel, which is good, albeit with some limitations. The acid test of course, is how they hold up with a few thousand miles and a filthy, wet and dark winter under their casings.  

On the subject of tyres and pressures specifically, my long serving and much loved SKS Airchecker that I’ve had for 12 years or so, fell into a suitably deep, sudsy bucket while I was cleaning the fixed.  Liberal blasts of Motorex Joker 440 Motorex Joker 440 | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) were delivered through the battery compartment, before leaving it drying in strong sunlight with the battery compartment open).  

 

Nope, dead. I had entered a state of mourning, unable to consign it to the bin. Then, curiosity urged me to give it a final try. I reinstated the battery, and it sprung back to life!  

Fabulous build quality, design and ergonomics...Bar/PSI modes, orange backlight, dual (Presta/Schrader) head, bleed valve... A bit pricey for hauling along in a pannier, or more often, Carradice SQR Tour luggage CARRADICE CARRADRY SQR BAG | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) (I kept this wallet-friendly and very cheerful analogue Revolution model for these duties).  

The Revolution also features a dual head valve and a pressure release valve for those times when you’ve been a little enthused or distracted. Smart heads are super convenient, but their only downside is the design’s fragility, as they use a sprung mechanism. Though rare, (especially if you’re using them periodically- a couple of times a week) I’ve had them blow into smithereens at the least convenient moment, inducing some equally colourful language.

   

Against this backdrop, I’ve been sent these two Topeak gauges for testing. The Shuttle Gauge G2, which is a compact analogue model designed to be compatible with Presta, Schrader and Dunlop valves. It’s also designed to work with air shocks, so a good bet for carrying on the bike. I’ve also been sent the brands’ Smart Gauge D2X digital. Measuring 1.8x4.2x1.9cm and reckoned good for 260psi, there are quite a few similarities with the SKS, including the backlight and bleed valve but some refinements too-It’ll measure PSI, BAR and kg/cm2, for example.  

  

I’m appreciating the lighter mornings too, which are enabling longer outings and changes in route(s). The fixed’s chain is still sporting a decent helping of Motoverde Chain Lube with PTFE so no need to change and the Momum MIC Dry Oil Lube Momum Mic Dry Oil Lube | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com)  seems a great seasonal fit for the Teenage Dream’s Sachs.  

It penetrates deep into the chain’s inner sanctum, requires 30 minutes curing time and is super clean. Given dawn is very prompt, I’m just running two potent blinkies on the Teenage Dream, while fixed and Ursula are sharing the See Sense Beam+ and suitably potent rear blinkies with daylight running modes for presence. Daylight running modes though not wildly so, still divide opinion.  

I’ll admit when they became “a thing” I was slightly concerned other road users would become “blind” to the few hundred flashing/pulsing lumens, rather like drivers tended to notice motorcyclists initially when machines started defaulting to this function, but progressively stopped noticing.  

There is some evidence to suggest these have a positive influence upon motor/cyclist safety but for cyclists at least, these need to be both bright enough and emit at the right tempo.   Lumens are not the only measure. Reflectors and lenses are arguably more significant since light must be projected efficiently and without causing nuisance.  

For example, I’m finding the Magicshine SeeMee150’s 45-lumen flash (more a pulsing in my book but nothing to get hung up over.) surprisingly effective. The Teenage Dream runs this Moon Nebula, which is a few years old but still in rude health and very capable. The 100-lumen daylight running mode certainly cuts it. However, the 20-lumen flash is also surprisingly effective, even around dawn.   

One of the features I love about the See Sense Beam+ See Sense Beam+ Front Light | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) is the flashing mode’s intelligent setting, meaning it regulates output to suit conditions and the sensored technology is one of the most responsive and exacting I’ve found. It's also laughably frugal in terms of run times.