Wax On...Wax Off

500 miles in, I’ve reached my conclusions regarding the Zefal high Performance Ultra Dry Wax Lube and moved on to its dry sibling. Though most of the wax had flaked from the chain, the rollers still sported a thin filmy layer of lubricant. Look a little closer, and the side-plates also retain a waxy glaze.

This; coupled with the more arid, warmer conditions prompted a switch to Zefal Pro Dry Chain Lube. A solvent soaked rag stripped the remnants, Piranha-fashion. Then I noticed the gungy build up clinging to the derailleur’s top jockey wheel…Remember what our elders said about washing behind our ears…A bit more solvent, and most of the mushy, congealed wax fell away in satisfying clumps.

Leaving the solvent to evaporate, I turned my attention to the Pro Dry bottle, giving it a gentle shake, noting the petrochemical formula’s warning notices. The usual precautions-keep away from aquatic life, don’t drink etc but nothing about curing times…

Popping the spout, its clear elixir literally roared into the chain’s inner sanctum (not totally unexpected, I’d had said rag hovering beneath, ready for the over-spill). Most was easily reclaimed, redistributed to the chain, cleat mechanisms, control cables etc. I left this curing for another twenty minutes, while giving the tubby tourer a once-over, before locking it away.

As I’d expected, some water marks and spatter were appearing in the thin layer of Muc-Off Silicone Shine, applied the other week. However, this was easily dismissed with a clean, lint free cloth, while still leaving some of the slippery sheen behind.

The internet has opened a whole new portal of possibilities, revolutionised the way (and indeed, speed) we communicate. However, like many technologies, it can empower, or enslave. It can also expose us to energy sapping timewasters, and blind alleys.

Several factories in the Far East reached out to me, in the context of titanium forks but with breathtakingly unfavourable terms. So, I declined, and adjusted my focus. Watch this space.

I’ve also noticed a small but solid community of people converting steel MTBs (90s, rigid forks and even the odd quill stem) to drop bar “Gravel” builds. In many respects, they make better rough stuff/commu-tourers and gravel bikes, than ‘cross conversions.

Front mech and other compatibility considerations aside, unless you are a smaller/junior rider, main triangle clearances make shouldering the bike, through rougher sections less convenient.

A gravel specific build will be more lithe, lighter and possibly have an edge, speed wise. Nonetheless, its’ not difficult to appreciate how older, rigid cross-country mtbs make excellent starting points.  Big clearances, lofty bottom bracket heights and sensible geometry…

However, it’s important to calculate the cost of such conversions and consider component choice carefully. Otherwise what can be very straightforward, and inexpensive, can evolve into a heat-sink, gobbling time, energy and financial resources.  Staying with Gravel/Cross etc, I reached my conclusions regarding the Acros Silicone Wrap Bar Tape https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/acros-silicone-wrap-handlebar-tape  and Steve’s been living with Oxford Performance Bar Tape. Another Silicone blend, but one giving a decent amount of change from £20. https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/oxford-performance-bar-tape  . Oh, and if you are looking towards an action cam, but are a bit low on your dough…Perhaps the Apeman A80 4K Action Camera will suit https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/apeman  

On a completely different note, I spotted what I believe to be a Holdsworth Cyclone frameset, awaiting refinishing. Though the enamel is looking weary, the electroplating looks almost factory fresh. Save perhaps for some tiny indentations.

It’s going to be refinished with water-based, wet spray paint, topped off with a polyester powder coat lacquer. I’m unsure about the year. The Cyclone was a tremendously long-lived model, running in different guises from 1934 right up to 1976.

I’m guessing late 50’s, maybe early 60s, built using plain gauge Reynolds 531 (Like my Holdsworth Zephyr). Would be interesting to know more about this specific frameset’s history. Please get in touch, if it belongs/belonged to you.     

5W 40 The Motor Oil Challenge

Motor oil has always been cited as an alternative to bike specific wet lubes, especially during the winter months. Some swear by the 50/50 petrol diesel mix during the drier months.

Petrol’s solvent properties will race through any residual grot, leaving the diesel lubricant properties behind.

Lubes such as Finish Line 1-Step cleaner and lubricant, https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/finish-line  work to much the same principle.

These are effective enough and a better bet, if you’re mixing alchemy leaves something to be desired. Let me go one stage further. Petrochemicals are extremely flammable and potentially lethal, if not stored and administered, correctly.

DISCLAIMER: IF YOU ARE IN ANY DOUBT, DO NOT ATTEMPT TO BREW YOUR OWN. PURCHASE COMMERCIALLY AVAILABLE PRODUCTS, AND FOLLOW THEIR STORAGE/APPLICATION INSTRUCTIONS, TO THE LETTER.

So then, I’d been out on “the old girl” aka my rough stuff tourer, bumbling along the backroads and bridleways. Though a reasonable amount of waxy prep clung to its cassette, the chain was beginning to look a little too clean. 20 miles later, the familiar faint metal on metal tinkling was beginning to intrude.

Back home, I decided now was the time to give the bike a sudsy bucket wash and baste some Green Oil chain degreaser jelly into the drivetrain.

Now, choice of motor oil is very important. Modern synthetics employ specialist detergents. These are designed to keep the engine clean and be reconstituted within the engine’s oil pump. On a bicycle chain, these detergents will simply strip the lubricant properties. So, that familiar, faint metal-on-metal tinkling will strike-in as little as 30miles, in some instances.

Therefore, something basic, ideally 10w/40 or, as is the case here, a slightly more sophisticated (though cheap as chips) 5w/40 semi synthetic is what’s called for. I decanted a small quantity of the honey coloured lube into a dropper bottle and drizzled a drop into each link. Then any excess was purged from the side-plates, using some clean rag.  No hanging around, waiting for it to cure. Super slick, too.

My cross inspired fixed gear winter/trainer’s KMC Z1x inox chain https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/kmc-inox-chain  was also running out of waxy prep, so was also stripped. Yep, 5w/40 followed. Lube tenure on the slippery surface can be a lottery, so I’m not expecting the same Miles Per Application (MPA).

Staying with motor oils a moment, these also make an excellent basis for home brewed wax-based frame preserves. If you’re taxed for time and the frameset isn’t seeing harsh service… Adding a couple of tablespoons worth, of 10w/40 to its inner sanctum, will offer a reasonable amount of protection, against internal corrosion.

Winter bikes sporting decorative electroplate can succumb to the salt monster. My preference is for a high-quality polymer wax preserve. However, giving them a quick oily-rag once-over, will serve as a cheap and relatively effective masking agent.     

Elsewhere and with the clocks going back, I’ve reached my conclusions regarding the Halo Evura/SP SL9 dynohub build https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/halo-evura-shutter-precision-sl9-dy  and have switched my focus, to the Ugoe 2000 lumen unit and its F100 and R50 counterparts. I prefer to run two rear blinkies. Traditionally, this has been as a contingency-should one power down/fail, there is always a backup.

Strictly speaking (and according to UK law) a flashing rear light, used in isolation is fine, provided it produces at least 4candela. Personally, to remove any wriggle room (read legal loopholes) I run a steady and flashing unit together.

Up front, a high power lamp is mandatory for navigating but I always pair these with a single, flashing blinker. This serves to identify me as a cyclist (rather than moped, or similar vehicle) on the one hand. It also provides some illumination, while stationary at junctions, tackling roundabouts/similar.

In terms of numbers 15 lumens is adequate for town and suburban riding, 25-35lumens for unlit rural work, although 50odd do come in handy in particularly dark/foggy contexts.

Helmet/luggage mounting is useful, but the bike must also sport one, to comply with the law. A technicality perhaps, if you are illuminated like the proverbial Christmas tree on acid. Alas, one readily exploited by a solicitor, in court...