Wax On...Wax Off

500 miles in, I’ve reached my conclusions regarding the Zefal high Performance Ultra Dry Wax Lube and moved on to its dry sibling. Though most of the wax had flaked from the chain, the rollers still sported a thin filmy layer of lubricant. Look a little closer, and the side-plates also retain a waxy glaze.

This; coupled with the more arid, warmer conditions prompted a switch to Zefal Pro Dry Chain Lube. A solvent soaked rag stripped the remnants, Piranha-fashion. Then I noticed the gungy build up clinging to the derailleur’s top jockey wheel…Remember what our elders said about washing behind our ears…A bit more solvent, and most of the mushy, congealed wax fell away in satisfying clumps.

Leaving the solvent to evaporate, I turned my attention to the Pro Dry bottle, giving it a gentle shake, noting the petrochemical formula’s warning notices. The usual precautions-keep away from aquatic life, don’t drink etc but nothing about curing times…

Popping the spout, its clear elixir literally roared into the chain’s inner sanctum (not totally unexpected, I’d had said rag hovering beneath, ready for the over-spill). Most was easily reclaimed, redistributed to the chain, cleat mechanisms, control cables etc. I left this curing for another twenty minutes, while giving the tubby tourer a once-over, before locking it away.

As I’d expected, some water marks and spatter were appearing in the thin layer of Muc-Off Silicone Shine, applied the other week. However, this was easily dismissed with a clean, lint free cloth, while still leaving some of the slippery sheen behind.

The internet has opened a whole new portal of possibilities, revolutionised the way (and indeed, speed) we communicate. However, like many technologies, it can empower, or enslave. It can also expose us to energy sapping timewasters, and blind alleys.

Several factories in the Far East reached out to me, in the context of titanium forks but with breathtakingly unfavourable terms. So, I declined, and adjusted my focus. Watch this space.

I’ve also noticed a small but solid community of people converting steel MTBs (90s, rigid forks and even the odd quill stem) to drop bar “Gravel” builds. In many respects, they make better rough stuff/commu-tourers and gravel bikes, than ‘cross conversions.

Front mech and other compatibility considerations aside, unless you are a smaller/junior rider, main triangle clearances make shouldering the bike, through rougher sections less convenient.

A gravel specific build will be more lithe, lighter and possibly have an edge, speed wise. Nonetheless, its’ not difficult to appreciate how older, rigid cross-country mtbs make excellent starting points.  Big clearances, lofty bottom bracket heights and sensible geometry…

However, it’s important to calculate the cost of such conversions and consider component choice carefully. Otherwise what can be very straightforward, and inexpensive, can evolve into a heat-sink, gobbling time, energy and financial resources.  Staying with Gravel/Cross etc, I reached my conclusions regarding the Acros Silicone Wrap Bar Tape https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/acros-silicone-wrap-handlebar-tape  and Steve’s been living with Oxford Performance Bar Tape. Another Silicone blend, but one giving a decent amount of change from £20. https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/oxford-performance-bar-tape  . Oh, and if you are looking towards an action cam, but are a bit low on your dough…Perhaps the Apeman A80 4K Action Camera will suit https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/apeman  

On a completely different note, I spotted what I believe to be a Holdsworth Cyclone frameset, awaiting refinishing. Though the enamel is looking weary, the electroplating looks almost factory fresh. Save perhaps for some tiny indentations.

It’s going to be refinished with water-based, wet spray paint, topped off with a polyester powder coat lacquer. I’m unsure about the year. The Cyclone was a tremendously long-lived model, running in different guises from 1934 right up to 1976.

I’m guessing late 50’s, maybe early 60s, built using plain gauge Reynolds 531 (Like my Holdsworth Zephyr). Would be interesting to know more about this specific frameset’s history. Please get in touch, if it belongs/belonged to you.     

Workhorse Worship

Having reached some definite conclusions about Muc-Off hydrodynamic chain lube, I wasted no time in introducing the Univega to its new chain, cassette and Genetic flare silicone handlebar wrap. Shimano’s HG50 (Tiagra by another name) requires little introduction and might be a little workmanlike by some standards. However, there’s a good rationale’ for running cheaper consumables on everyday/winter bikes and besides, it shifts pretty sweetly.

More interesting is the KMC X9 chain’s “Eco ProTeQ” anti-rust coating. KMC give little away, other to say it passes the 650 hour salt spray test but cursory inspection suggests it’s a form of nickel plating. Galvanised designs work well-to a point but once it’s worn through, they’ll turn orange at the merest lick from a slushy puddle.

The Ilpompino wasn’t left out either, courtesy of this perfectly coordinated, injection moulded Tacx Deva bottle cage, which is a composite in the true sense, comprising of 40% carbon fibre blended with glass fibre and polyamide. That curvaceous stainless steel Axiom cage still adorns its seat tube bosses as I like to port heavier stuff, including the odd NiMH bottle battery now and then. 

My MK1 Ford Ka on the other hand, is considerably low-tech (although even this one gets plugged into a laptop from time to time). After several soggy weeks second guessing that tell-tale bubbling around its fuel-filler cap, a temperate Saturday morning spelt an end to procrastination and hand-wringing.

This is an endemic weak spot (along with sills and tailgates) that can prove expensive, uneconomic if ignored. Moisture gets trapped between the rubberised seal and the recessed section, whereupon it nibbles away unnoticed until those bubbles start brewing. Hardware is easily removed using a Phillips head screwdriver and by this stage; a quick shot of penetrant spray followed by deft taps from rubberised “engineers” mallet.

Fresh out of traditional freeing agents, Effetto Mariposa “Carbo Move”” proved an excellent stand-in and thankfully the damage was less extensive than first feared. Flaking paint and rust dismissed, a quick lick of filler followed by liberal basting of Kurust left curing for the full three hours ensured a sound, primer ready surface.

Three thin coats of high build primer seemed sufficient but wanting to minimise the likelihood of a more squeamish sequel, I slathered some White Lightning crystal grease to the rubberised flange, creating a protective barrier. This technique has proved very effective where rear wiper and tailgate entwine-three years and no recurrence. Reinstating everything prove the most fiddly job, requiring some dexterous juggling and positive energy before it would seat seamlessly within the panel-phew!