Back To The Old School

 I am switching back to the “school chair” fork that was upfront for several years, rather than risk something Chinese. Just a matter of switching the crown race over from the Project 2. Meantime, I’ll keep the existing setup, test the Shimano Alfine dyno hub and Capgo cable.  

Upgrading the Tektro 710 in favour of the Shimano CX50 was another inspired choice. That’s not to say the Tektro 710 isn’t a decent stopper- it is. However, the CX50 is superior and simpler to adjust. New chain was also timely- though shifting wasn’t “Off” it’s a notch crisper now. I’ve also discovered a couple of mid-range 10 speed KMC chains that I’d squirreled away, while on the hunt for something else, naturally.     

Subtly raising the fixed’s saddle height was another good move. Up front I’ve switched to this Vittoria Adventure Tech Tyre, which features a 3mm thick puncture repelling belt, which runs along the centre-strip, rather akin to the Kenda Kwick Journey KS Plus KENDA KWICK JOURNEY TYRES | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) . The Kenda had been on the Halo Evura/SP SL9 HALO EVURA & SHUTTER PRECISION SL9 DYNOHUB BUILD (sevendaycyclist.com) for so many miles, the wire bead required unusual effort to shift, even with a long-handled Hutchinson tyre lever and two Ritchey models, designed to stow away in the bar ends.  

Puzzling but thankfully it relented and without incident. Perhaps unsurprisingly, the 38mm Vittoria was more compliant but had a subversive streak, peeling away once I’d got it 70% home. Cursory inspection reveals a maximum pressure of 85psi (80 for the 32mm (about 1.26 in) Kenda Kwick Journey KS Plus).

However, while both employ puncture repelling centre strips, the Kenda’s is 5mm (about 0.2 in) thick and has gone at least ten months and several thousand miles without a single flat. It will be interesting to see how the Vittoria’s compares.  

It also features a Graphene compound for enhanced life and is E-Bike R75 compliant, which basically means it's designed to perform on the fastest models. Surprising since it gives change from £30.   

Thirteen years down the line, I’ve also decided it was high time the “spare” Halo Aero Track rear wheel got some TLC.  

For some reason, the axle’s threads had begun shedding and if I’m going to open the hub, I may as well go for new cartridge bearings, a liberal helping of grease, topped off with a quick tension and true of the hoop. These deep-section rims are not welded, rather joined by pressure and feature a powder-coated finish.  

The latter looks to have been applied directly, rather than atop a primer, hence the odd chip here and there but still in great shape, all told. Light cosmetics aside, I’m of the opinion a second/spare wheel still needs to be bang on, since you’ll be depending on it, while the best, or main is on the jig.   

Not to be outdone, the cassette style lockring belonging my fixed gear winter/trainer’s main Halo fixed G Track Hub HALO FIX G TRACK HUB | Seven Day Cyclist Tourin Tests Commuting came loose, resulting in some uncharacteristic chain noise. (I was on the return leg and only a few miles from home.) I’m a big fan of the Fix-G and its design and the lockring is very reliable.  

However, check it every 250 miles or so, or before a long ride-unless you’re prepared to carry a cassette type tool along. No problem with the SQR Tour, given its cavernous capacity but a bit OTT possibly. Anyhow, I snugged mine back down, reinstated the wheel and got on with my life.  

Ursula’s front Schwalbe Land Cruiser had succumbed to its first flat. A very thin, sharp hedge clipping swept up by the recent rains. The head was very difficult to spot and indeed, drag out. I had to resort to needle nose pliers. On long rides, or those in the arse end of nowhere, there’s a good case for carrying a small set of pliers, or a little multi-tool such as this True Utility, which I’ve had for some years and am firmly attached to.    

 

Plans & Prep

 

Having done some extensive overhauling and replacement of Ursula’s cockpit and drivetrain, September’s subtle changes encouraged me to scrutinise my fixed gear winter/trainer’s drivetrain components. All seemed basically sound, although the KMC Z510 HX chain was showing signs of fatigue and due its pension, so I switched it for this blue KMC S1. 

A cheap, but hopefully cheerful and relatively quiet replacement. Time and miles will tell. A slightly cheaper chain replaced more frequently is always better than a neglected top draw model, which will chew through more expensive components, or fail, at a critical moment.  

I returned 3,000 miles from the Z510, though I will be suitably pleased to get 1200 from the S1. Not that I’m powerfully built but I don’t run a rear brake, moderating speed by holding off against the cranks. In any case, I have a beefy, half-link HL710 BMX model waiting in the wings, when the S1 starts losing its edge. Back in the late 80’s, when I was riding conversions, 3/32 Sedis and beveled sprockets were my defaults and performed reliably enough, compensating for any slight chain line imprecision. I much prefer beefier track types though.  

Tension is another important consideration. Too little and the chain’s sagging, possibly coming off, sending you down. Too much and aside from being brutally inefficient, accelerating wear also runs the risk of breakage.  

Since we’re on the subject, tough fixed drivetrains are simple, don’t forget to give the sprocket threads a helping of stiff grease periodically to prevent them seizing. They’re easily forgotten but get basted in a fair amount of caustic, slimy cack. 

A few rides in, I then discovered some slop in the Fixed G hub-checked the obvious stuff-track nuts were snug, ditto the sprocket and spacers. Play was definitely coming from the sealed hub bearings. These are Japanese EZO bearing (6000 size) so not something I had readily to hand.  

For the time being, I’ve switched to the Halo deep-section Aerorage wheel, until such time as their replacements arrive and I have time to perform the op. Cursory inspection suggests some specialist tooling, including circlip pliers, which will otherwise be used infrequently, so I may well outsource this to a good local wheel builder while I pursue other projects. 

 

Noticed some minor cuts in the long-serving 35mm section Schwalbe Marathon GT tyre casing. Easily sorted with a quick drop of superglue. Prevention is always more convenient than cure. On a roll, cleats were replaced. The existing fasteners had turned arthritic, though stopped short of seized. Two short blasts of penetrant/freeing oil and trusty 4mm Allen key secured their release. I added a lick of Peaty’s Bicycle Assembly Grease to the fasteners.PEATY'S BICYCLE ASSEMBLY GREASE | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com)   

 

Otherwise, I'm making the very most of ambient conditions, enjoying the Teenage Dream’s spirited charms. 

 

The Ravemen CR600 is proving a good companion, albeit with short run times in the highest, 600-lumen setting. Comes with the territory, i.e. typical of compact, high-power lights. That said, output quality is better than I’ve come to expect from mid-power models. Holes and similar hazards are easily spotted from a decent distance and at a reasonable pace.  

However,800 lumens upwards.is a better option for regular/longer distance backroad fun. If you can handle the relative bulk, its 1200lumen cousin is well worth a look. RAVEMEN PR 1200 DUAL LENS FRONT LIGHT | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com)  Sportive and Audax riders are much better served by dynamo systems, and I’ve been seriously impressed by the K-Lite Ultra Low Drag Dynamo Light K-LITE ULTRA LOW DRAG DYNAMO LIGHT | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) 

 

Rural roads aren’t generally littered with glass and similar sharps, but thorns and hedge clippings can be quite prevalent at certain points of the year. A few miles from home on my dawn blast, I was feeling the stirrings of a very large bowel movement, which was also urging a quicker tempo. Then I felt that ominous up n’ down sinking feeling...Yup, the rear tyre had been slowly bleeding pressure and when I stopped to check, I was down from 130, to 20psi.

   

Inconvenient but spare tube, tyre levers and Lezyne pump meant I was back on the road and racing for the toilet, fearing my bowels might overtake me. Thankfully they didn’t, but it was an uncomfortably close thing. I would’ve got away quicker but was foiled by a faulty CO2 cartridge...