Plans & Prep

 

Having done some extensive overhauling and replacement of Ursula’s cockpit and drivetrain, September’s subtle changes encouraged me to scrutinise my fixed gear winter/trainer’s drivetrain components. All seemed basically sound, although the KMC Z510 HX chain was showing signs of fatigue and due its pension, so I switched it for this blue KMC S1. 

A cheap, but hopefully cheerful and relatively quiet replacement. Time and miles will tell. A slightly cheaper chain replaced more frequently is always better than a neglected top draw model, which will chew through more expensive components, or fail, at a critical moment.  

I returned 3,000 miles from the Z510, though I will be suitably pleased to get 1200 from the S1. Not that I’m powerfully built but I don’t run a rear brake, moderating speed by holding off against the cranks. In any case, I have a beefy, half-link HL710 BMX model waiting in the wings, when the S1 starts losing its edge. Back in the late 80’s, when I was riding conversions, 3/32 Sedis and beveled sprockets were my defaults and performed reliably enough, compensating for any slight chain line imprecision. I much prefer beefier track types though.  

Tension is another important consideration. Too little and the chain’s sagging, possibly coming off, sending you down. Too much and aside from being brutally inefficient, accelerating wear also runs the risk of breakage.  

Since we’re on the subject, tough fixed drivetrains are simple, don’t forget to give the sprocket threads a helping of stiff grease periodically to prevent them seizing. They’re easily forgotten but get basted in a fair amount of caustic, slimy cack. 

A few rides in, I then discovered some slop in the Fixed G hub-checked the obvious stuff-track nuts were snug, ditto the sprocket and spacers. Play was definitely coming from the sealed hub bearings. These are Japanese EZO bearing (6000 size) so not something I had readily to hand.  

For the time being, I’ve switched to the Halo deep-section Aerorage wheel, until such time as their replacements arrive and I have time to perform the op. Cursory inspection suggests some specialist tooling, including circlip pliers, which will otherwise be used infrequently, so I may well outsource this to a good local wheel builder while I pursue other projects. 

 

Noticed some minor cuts in the long-serving 35mm section Schwalbe Marathon GT tyre casing. Easily sorted with a quick drop of superglue. Prevention is always more convenient than cure. On a roll, cleats were replaced. The existing fasteners had turned arthritic, though stopped short of seized. Two short blasts of penetrant/freeing oil and trusty 4mm Allen key secured their release. I added a lick of Peaty’s Bicycle Assembly Grease to the fasteners.PEATY'S BICYCLE ASSEMBLY GREASE | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com)   

 

Otherwise, I'm making the very most of ambient conditions, enjoying the Teenage Dream’s spirited charms. 

 

The Ravemen CR600 is proving a good companion, albeit with short run times in the highest, 600-lumen setting. Comes with the territory, i.e. typical of compact, high-power lights. That said, output quality is better than I’ve come to expect from mid-power models. Holes and similar hazards are easily spotted from a decent distance and at a reasonable pace.  

However,800 lumens upwards.is a better option for regular/longer distance backroad fun. If you can handle the relative bulk, its 1200lumen cousin is well worth a look. RAVEMEN PR 1200 DUAL LENS FRONT LIGHT | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com)  Sportive and Audax riders are much better served by dynamo systems, and I’ve been seriously impressed by the K-Lite Ultra Low Drag Dynamo Light K-LITE ULTRA LOW DRAG DYNAMO LIGHT | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) 

 

Rural roads aren’t generally littered with glass and similar sharps, but thorns and hedge clippings can be quite prevalent at certain points of the year. A few miles from home on my dawn blast, I was feeling the stirrings of a very large bowel movement, which was also urging a quicker tempo. Then I felt that ominous up n’ down sinking feeling...Yup, the rear tyre had been slowly bleeding pressure and when I stopped to check, I was down from 130, to 20psi.

   

Inconvenient but spare tube, tyre levers and Lezyne pump meant I was back on the road and racing for the toilet, fearing my bowels might overtake me. Thankfully they didn’t, but it was an uncomfortably close thing. I would’ve got away quicker but was foiled by a faulty CO2 cartridge... 

 

Lighting, Camera Action

 

A week down the line and I’m getting better acquainted with the CamPark V40 Action Camera and find it generally intuitive. Forgoing the waterproof housing has addressed the issues with microphone buzz. Video capture is also reasonably good, especially when mounted directly to an aftermarket mount.  

This Minoura VC100 S has been a consistent feature of Ursula’s bars for 8 years. The shock-absorbing cork platform expired last year, substituted with a rubber shim doing something close to nothing in my spares box.  

This overcomes any minor blurring that could strike along washboard tarmac, even with the in-camera stabilisation engaged. Action cameras have relatively small sensors, hence while the image quality is favourable in bright conditions (sun and snow for example) low light performance is less consistent. 

I’ve switched the gasket-sealed weatherproof housing to my fixed gear winter/trainer. Not that I’m pensioning off the Geonaute G-Eye 2 Escape. Though quite elderly and with fewer bells and whistles than we’d expect from a more contemporary model, it’s still reliable and delivering decent footage. I suspect it will become bin fodder once the integrated battery expires, mind.   

Some bar tidying followed, since time allowed. The K-lite Bike packer Pro V2’s switch now nestles beside the lamp and the ORP Smart HornTESTED: ORP SMART HORN (sevendaycyclist.com) in its place. Neater and presented the opportunity to snug down some otherwise easily overlooked fasteners.   

Another batch of DIY corrosion inhibitor has also been brewed. I’d usually make more but this was plentiful for topping up the KA and Micra’s protection. Applying during any damp period will simply seal the moisture IN, which defeats the object. This formula is made using candlewax, solvent and whatever cheap as chips motor oil I have laying around. 

While tending to Ursula’s mudguard hardware, I noticed the Lezyne pump had been “wood peckering” the tubby tourer’s down tube, marking the cream powder coat. After The Gritters Went Home | Seven Day Cyclist, so, I polished the blemish out, placed a sticker and a piece of Zefal Skin armor ZEFAL SKIN ARMOR ROLL | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) atop for peace of mind/additional insurance.  While Ursula’s chain might be sporting a slightly scuzzy beard, the SKS Lube Your Chain TESTED: SKS LUBE YOUR CHAIN (sevendaycyclist.com) is a waxy formula that seems to lock contaminant in the outer layer, so it can’t become a ruthlessly effective grinding paste. 

A little goes a very long way, stays put and friction is also comparatively low. If forecasts are accurate, a spell of higher pressure is to hit the UK in the next week, which might present the opportunity for lighter lubes and some serious miles on the Teenage Dream.  Meantime, I’m allowing the Univega to become uncharacteristically filthy in preparation for this bike wash.  

Some people will argue (and I can understand their angle) that these are unnecessary. 

Car wash formulas are cheap as chips, will strip the grot, and leave a protectant barrier behind. I freely admit to being a fan, especially during winter when time is dictated by temperature and available daylight. My preference leans towards concentrates, which I can brew to taste i.e. a degreaser for a deep component clean, a winter weight grot softener, and one for lighter, generic blow-overs.  

Much the same principle when it comes to lubes, maintenance sprays, and freeing agents. A very thin spray, like GT85GT85 ALL PURPOSE LUBRICANT (sevendaycyclist.com) is great for displacing moisture post wash freeing sticky cables and will even ease a reluctant seatpost. However, immobile, or semi seized stuff requires a penetrant spray. In a pinch, strong solvent-based degreasers/disc brake cleaners can also save the day.  

Technique also plays a part on the efficiency front. Taking stuck seatposts as an example, wrapping an old bubble wrap envelope (cut down) into a cone shape and secure it around the seat tube with a zip tie (having removed the seat bolt).  

Deliver a quick shot directly at the post and tap the saddle with a rubber “engineer’s” mallet. Now deliver subsequent blasts into the envelope, in a circular motion, this will see it travel inside the post steadily. Give the saddle regular firm taps, every few minutes to encourage penetration, break the seal of corrosion and ultimately, free the post. Similar technique for old-fashioned quill stems, too.     

I also keep a stockier maintenance spray for protecting fasteners from corrosion, longer-term lubrication to brake/gear cables, masking electroplated frame/fork ends, keeping locking/mechanisms mobile. Horses for courses, is my point. Talking of which, those seeking a small-wheeled magnesium e-folder might be interested in this MIRider MIRIDER 2021 | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com)