Revise, Run & Reflect

 

This is a principle I generally apply in broad strokes terms, not simply to bicycles, but is particularly relevant in this context. For some years now, I’ve tended to work potential changes out on paper first, evaluating the pros and cons before committing myself. Product testing is a different kettle of fish. Manufacturers and distributors sometimes send stuff on spec and I’ very receptive to “lucky dips”. I’m referring to matters such as braking, steering and gearing. In the latter context.

I’m staying with a 2x setup.

A third ring will barely get used, so will just add weight and complexity. 32x22 rings coupled with a 12-28, or 12-30 cassette provides sufficient range for most of my riding contexts. Sure, a 48 ring would offer some bombing prowess but spin-out isn’t something I’m struggling with. Even with the trailer and decent cargo en tow, there’s sufficient torque for 17mph cruising and faster descending without loosing out on the climb. A well-honed cantilever, or cable operated disc setup has sufficient bite for 20 odd kilos and 1in 7 descents-provided you’re not in Kamikaze mode.

On several occasions, I’ve toyed with ideas of upgrading to a more expensive cable-operated disc configuration. However, aside from some quirks, especially when it comes to setup, the Spyre and SLC are still very simple to work on and provide enough bite. Hydraulics have been another recurrent temptation. More bite, lower maintenance but set up and servicing are not as straightforward as some suggest.

A well-equipped local bike shop is worth their weight in gold and, all things being equal. would be only too happy to setup and maintain. However, even the best maintained components and bikes can malfunction, often at the least convenient moment. All I need carry on a cable-operated setup are a suitable multitool, spare inner wires and some pads. The latter I’d save for a big ride, or tour but you get the idea.

Talking of touring, I’ve been getting some more serious miles done with the M Part Ridge Rear Pannier Rack and continue to be impressed with its generic compatibility. By that I mean its plug and play compatibility with most mounting hardware, including Rixen Kaul, this Lomo Zeyphr Lomo Zephyr Waterproof Panniers | cycling-not-racing. Topeak’s Handleloc system found on their Pannier Drybag 16litre The Topeak Pannier Dry Bag 16 litre | cycling-not-racing required some shims (binding some old butyl around the rack tubing has similar results). Either way, reliable union is readily achievable.

 While I’ve had no heel clearance or similar issues with 20 litre models, I am forming the opinion the rack’s angular profile is optimal longer, narrower designs, such as the Topeak and Oxford Aqua V20 Single Pannier Oxford Aqua V20 Single Pannier | cycling-not-racing The top section is slightly broader than its Summit cousin, which came as a pleasant surprise and makes it a better host for rack top bags.   

I am a proponent of powder coated finishes-at least well applied, good quality powders. The satin black looks classy and more importantly, is holding up well against the usual fitting and removing. While I wouldn’t get unduly concerned about the everyday wear and tear, beyond a certain point, I’d be inclined to have it refinished along with some other parts (to keep things cost effective). Prevention is always better than cure. Dressing the rails in old butyl tube, or electrical tape largely renders this a moot point.

Talking of dressing, the temperatures are slowly tempering and dropping to more seasonally typical figures. Layering is the most obvious, time-honoured solution but some manufacturers, including Castelli offer apparel designed to bridge the gap between summer and early autumn.

Contexts where it is typically temperate, but it can turn cool, or damp during the course of a ride. A packable jacket helps protect against wind chill, showers and more persistent rainfall; arm warmers keep short sleeve jerseys practical when temperatures fluctuate. ¾ lengths divide opinion, but my when the temperatures are dropping and they’ll dry quicker than tights when the heavens open. Much will depend on how long you’re out riding but a cap and liner gloves and a buff can come in similarly useful.

Rains have brought the temperature down and meant bikes get grimier. Perfect for evaluating the Juice Lubes Slick Juice Grease’s staying prowess and of course, the brand’s bike wash and concentrate formulas.

Chains are still dressed in the All-Mountain-Style Miami Glide Chain Wax The All Mountain Style Miami Glide | cycling-not-racing and I see no reason to switch until October. By that point, I suspect I’ll be pensioning off Muffin’s KMC Z510 HX in favour of a Z1 Inox SEVEN DAY CYCLIST'S 3000 MILE TEST OF A KMC INOX CHAIN  and test lubes aside, likely defaulting to Weldtite All Weather Lube Weldtite All Weather Lube | cycling-not-racing . The All-Weather Lube is less tenacious than stodgy wet formulas, but cleaner, requires no curing time and is easily topped up.     

 

Stopping, Hauling, Stems & Stubborn Rubber

 

Having tamed the rogue rear stopper and rack/trailer compatibility, I decided it was time to switch the rear Specialized Crossroads EX for the Nutrak Vee Swift Frenzy for the full experience. Again, I was so grateful for the Cyclo Advanced Tyre Fitting and Removal Tool, since they've proven a very stubborn fit from the packet.

Unclear at this stage whether they'll relax any with time and use. I should point out I was able to mount them to The Ryde Sputnik, but not the Mavic X17, although this also presented an opportunity to tweak the Ryde’s Shimano XT hub bearings- I’d set them a little tight during the last overhaul and hadn’t made time to correct this until now. On went a fresh 12-28 cassette, since I was there, for super convenient exchanges.

It will be a few months before I can arrive at any definite conclusions in any case, especially when it comes to their prowess in wet, muddy conditions. Nonetheless, thus far they're proving quite frisky and grippy across a multitude of surfaces. No cuts, or flats as yet, but all things being equal, I wouldn't expect so for at least a few hundred miles.

On the subject of durability, I was surprised to discover The Genetic Hi Grip Handlebar Tape Genetic Hi-Grip Handlebar Tape | cycling-not-racing had expired, or rather the EVA backing had separated from the top layer. Thankfully, I had silicones and others "in stock". I ultimately reached for this Selcoff, which looks and feels very similar to the Genetic.

I’d also decided to make a new shim for Denise’s Exposure Revo Dynamo Lamp mount- the old butyl bodge was looking a little tired and I’d found a better candidate while hunting some fasteners. Pruned and snugged to the recommended 3nm-one of those simple, yet strangely satisfying serendipitous jobs.    

The continued drought conditions also mean I've not been able to test the waterproof properties of this Lomo carry sack, which I'd been sent to pair with my Yak homage. The original carry bag, though made of a waterproof fabric, has stitched seams without welding or taping. Consequently, rain will always find its way inside-not ideal on a supermarket run, let alone a week’s tour.

 Staying with trailers a moment, I found an old front mudguard (fender to those of you in the US and Canada) and modified it slightly before securing via the trailer bed’s quick release and a couple of zip ties.  The M Part Ridge Rack is doing its thing competently and without fanfare-much as I’d expected.

I cited some issues with the design’s proportionately shorter arms, and I’d like to see a revision, but if your frame(s) didn’t have the full four-point mounts, there are neat alternatives to the humble and generally effective P-clips. Now, Ursula’s frame threads are in good shape thirty years down the line. 

However, if your chosen frame is otherwise good (maybe you had it refinished a couple of years back, but carrier threads are a bit weary), a seat clamp with rack mounts, such as this M Part could prove an inexpensive, reliable way forward. The other possible option is to have the threads repaired using a heli-oil kit. Personally, this could be tricky, since there's not a lot of metal here. I’d leave that to an experienced shop mechanic or framebuilder. Especially if you weren’t familiar and comfortable with tapping threads.

Thoughts have also returned to Ursula’s stem. The existing unit is functional, proves the 45-degree angle was correct in practice. However, it's also a little crude.

While indulging in some reader's rides type porn, I happened upon Velo Orange's Happy Stem, which is 45 degrees, available in silver or black and 90, or 110mm lengths. I'd be needing the 90mm, wanting the black and being want, rather than need, I'll defer gratification, shift some unwanted stuff on eBay and reflect accordingly. 

Otherwise, I'm very happy with the series of subtle revisions made over the past few months. I’ve experienced shoulder discomfort or many years. This was largely rectified through a bike fit back in 2008, which determined that my legs are of identical length, but my right femur is longer, creating an imbalance. Insoles certainly helped, but, like most of us, I’ve had the odd, sometimes brutal encounter with terra firma over the past forty years...

As my late father remarked, albeit in the context of motorcycling, it doesn’t matter how good a rider you are, or think you are, you will always come off. My left shoulder has communicated its frustration and disdain from time to time, requiring time on a therapists' table to rectify. Mercifully, not too frequently, nor is it indicative of a degenerative condition. Something that had crossed my mind, some years ago, since my late father struggled with fibromyalgia in the last years of his life.

Some people would suggest that regret is pointless. A standpoint I understand, since we cannot change the past, but we can change our relationship to it and not repeat the mistakes that led us to that point. On the plus side, I read people and situations very accurately and navigate accordingly,

Anecdotally, I have also noted an increase in people seemingly unable to listen and look beyond a dogmatic prejudice, or similar set of inaccurate assumptions. There have been many times in my life (on two wheels and elsewhere) where had I assumed, I would’ve been dead or left with life changing injuries.  That young woman walking along a dirt road…Is she in the third trimester of pregnancy, or is she packed with plastic explosive…       

I’ll close on a happier note with Steve’s review of POC’s Cadence Jersey  POC Cadence Jersey Mens' | cycling-not-racing  and Leatt’s Therma Flow Hoodie 3.0 Leatt MTB ThermaFlow Hoodie 3.0 | cycling-not-racing

 

 

Torque & Spring Tuning

 

I like torque wrenches and if not essential in the life and death sense, they’re increasingly necessary when working on modern bikes. An overly stressed component can snap at best leaving you out of pocket or resulting in a potentially nasty accident. This wallet friendly MPart Torque wrench has been my faithful workshop companion for several years now and highly intuitive to use. It caters for most of the fleet’s needs.  

However, there are some parts that require a little extra. Back story done, Oxford sent me their Torque wrench with a range between 2 and 22nm. Obviously, this won’t entertain cassette lockrings and square taper crank bolts, which need closer to 50nm, but otherwise, this range caters for everything from a bottle cage, mudguard mount, or derailleur jockey wheel to old school quill stems.  

Made from hardened chrome vanadium steel, setting the torque is simple, just a little counter-intuitive, coming from the M-Part and induced speedy referral to the (thankfully included) instructions but essentially boils down to turning the base/handle clockwise until it aligns with your desired torque. In common with the MPart, the wrench itself is ratcheted, which is super convenient from the perspectives of speed and efficiency, especially in tighter spaces.   Ursula’s front mech turned temperamental again, a quick turn of the adjustment screw and a gentle pinch of the front mech’s nose cured this, the chain skipping from big to small rings without missing a beat once more.  

Spring is synonymous with seasonal fettling and usually involves a good washing and hard paste waxing of some sort. Having done so, I decided it prudent to put some dead butyl to good use, dressing Denise and Ursula’s top tubes to avoid dings (should the bar end shifters catch in a tumble with terra firma, or the bars swing back with force).  

This also presented an opportunity to dress Ursula and fixed gear winter trainer’s Topeak racks to prevent further abrasion from pannier hardware. I also tweaked Ursula’s rear TRP Spyre, gave both bikes a good clean using this BBB Bio Ready Wash Bike Shampoo, finishing off with the brand’s Bio Gloss Bike Wax Polish (since they’re also on my test bench).  The ready wash, as its name suggests requires no water and isn’t designed for lightly soiled bikes. Spray on and buff to a shine with a microfibre cloth. Great from the convenience standpoint.  How it compares to something like this Motoverde Waterless Wash & WaxMotoverde Waterless Wash & Wax | cycling-not-racing remains to be seen (although it’s worth saying the Motoverde is also a good bit dearer)   

I’ve switched the fabulous Lomo ZephyrLomo Zephyr Waterproof Panniers | cycling-not-racing for this Altura Thunderstorm City Pannier. It’s another roll top design, meeting IPX6 for water resistance but a little smaller (20 litres) and claimed to have a ten-kilo maximum payload. It employs Rixen Kaul fitting hardware for limpet-like tenure to most diameters of rack tubing-easily tweaked with a few turns of a Philips screwdriver.  

I also like the closure system, which lacks the outright speed, dare I say convenience of a quick release buckle, but is more readily repairable, should it fail. A small thing, but I also like the light loop and the subtle retro reflective flecks. Oh, if black’s not er, your bag it also comes in a more stereotypically “commuter”  fluro yellow. 

Internally, it also employs sleeves to safely arrest and segregate 13-inch laptops and similar tech, or indeed, other items, such as a U lock. There’s a stiffener at the wall (where it rests against the rack) but unlike the Lomo, no scuff protection around the base- not unusual and an observation, rather than criticism. I’ve had a few off-road excursions with it and even moderately laden, no rattles and the mounting hardware has held 10mm tubing like the proverbial limpet.   

It has also been a good time to check butyl stocks, and I’m pleased to report several have been successfully patched, so could rejoin their respective panniers. A decent quality patch kit and patches are another of those unsung heroes of the toolkit. I pension tubes off after three patches but am firmly of the persuasion that I want the best chance of the patch and ultimately repair time effective. Right, off to play with the CST Patrol again...