Warp Speed, Mr Sulu!

The nights are beginning to steadily creep in. A few weeks back, it was still light by 2100, now I've the dynamo and rear blinkie running at 1930 onward. Some would argue running front and rear blinkies is good practice, long before dusk. I'm inclined to agree. 

My tubby tourer's Exposure Revo dynamo headlight not only produces a very usable 800 lumens, the standlight lasts longer than most. Therefore, no problems at busy junctions. Nonetheless, anecdotally, it seems car, and other drivers respond faster to a fast tempo of a daylight/similar flash setting. Hence the ORP Smart Horn https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/orp-smart-horn and more recently, this Ravemen  LR500S USB Rechargeable Curved Lens Front Light. Clue's in the title, its a compact light with a total (and more potent than figures suggest) of 500 lumens.  

In common with its LR1200 counterpart, it uses lens technology, which is designed to provide a pure, consistent, yet road friendly beam. There are four modes. Three steady High (500) medium (300) and low (100), which should cater for town suburban and semi rural contexts, without being impotent, or abrasive. 

Run times are cited as a commuting friendly 1.6, 2.8 and 7.5 hours respectively. The rapid flash (200) is reckoned good for 15  In emergency, there's the option of plugging into a portable "power bank" and I also like the wired remote option.

Not that the switch cum battery life indicator is tricky to operate and there's a memory mode. Both the 1200 and 500 brackets are fully compatible with the different units, hence I've swapped between tubby tourer and working fixed. There's also an upside down, Garmin type option, if you're pressed for space, or despise clutter. 

An aluminium alloy casing, though not unheard of, at this price point (£34.99) is nice to see. Its shock resistant to 1 metre and complies with PPX 6 for weather repellency. Reassuring.  

Even with high power main systems (dynamos, in this instance) I always carry a second compact unit. Should I puncture/similar along a very dark lane, or snag a wire/similar, then I've always got a sensibly powered backup. Most of the time, these just do a different sort of backing singing-flashing away. Now, much to my surprise, I've discovered it has cancelled out the signal from my tubby tourer's simple little Cat-Eye Quick Computer. 

I initially put this down to a dead sensor battery, and changed the CR2032 button cell, adding a quick lick of Vaseline to the contacts, while I was there.  Spun the wheel, fine. Popped the Ravemem into fast flash the next morning and headed along the lanes. Head unit registered  0 . 

Having stopped and double checked sensor/magnet clearances, I switched the Ravemen off. With (almost) immediate effect,  the display read 14.3 mph. The moment I reengaged the little Ravemen. 0 .  

Shame too, since I was really flying along the flats and descents. In keeping with the Zefal Pro Dry Chain lube https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/zefal-pro-dry-lube and indeed, Muc-Off Dry Lube https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/muc-off-dry-chain-lube, the Rock N' Roll Gold LV one of those low friction blends that really encourages a taller gear and faster cadence. Theory goes this family are intended to be topped up, every 100miles or  so, although I've managed over 400 miles with their absolute dry (admittedly, an older formula) 

Anyone will tell you a wired connection is the most reliable. However, I've never experienced this before-with any system. Sure, older wireless models had a reputation for going bonkers, in close proximity to high currents-Pylons, nuclear power stations etc. 

88mph uphill anyone? Might just be the relatively close proximity. It's presently on the Velo Orange Handlebar Accessory mount https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/velo-orange-handlebar-accessory-mou, so I'll swap it around and see if this makes any difference.  Elsewhere,  Oxford have sent us their North Shore Off Road gloves, which are proving surprisingly capable options for late summer road riding, too. Plenty of miles to do before I cement a proper, informed conclusion. Muc Off also sent me a small bottle of their matt finish detailer, which I've wasted no time applying to a few lids.  

Preps & Preparedness FGG

Been a busy week of tweaking and tuning here, with a welcome procession of test kit, to keep me focused and out of trouble. Summer prevails, despite the harbinger of doom  tabloid headlines. 

We're prioritising summer based chain preps and related stuff, at Seven Day Cyclist and I'm hoping to get some decent mileage on the Holdsworth before leaves start falling.  That said; the nights are drawing in that little bit faster now, which is ideal for testing lights. 

The majority of breakdowns are avoidable. Sure, there's always that hole/sharp with your name on it. The best maintained machines CAN let us down, but probability is very small. 

I've been alternating between fixed gear winter trainer and tubby tourer this week. Thundering along 1in 4s at 35mph, keeping up with the spiralling revs and putting the Clarks CMD22 through its paces. Paired to The now discontinued  Kinesis DC37 fork  and Cane Creek V brake lever https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/cane-creek-v-brake-drop-bar-levers, setup was a pig. 

I also had to switch to the TRP Spyre's mount, so the caliper didn't bind against the spokes. Quiet, methodical tweaking, diesel strength coffee and minute adjustments won the day. Formative impressions are very positive, although at this stage, I'm not convinced real world performance is superior to the TRP Spyre. 

Only time and real world miles, will tell.  A sentiment that applies to a wealth of other things. Dry lubes can take many forms, some ceramic blends, such as Weldtite TF2 which cure to a dry, yet surprisingly durable state. 

Others are closer to an oil and some, including Muc Off Dry https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/muc-off-dry-chain-lube and Oxford Mint Dry https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/oxford-mint-cycle-dry-lube are closer to emulsions in their consistency. Ceramics tend to require relatively long curing periods. However, the do run cleanest, in my experience. 

Wax and emulsions tend to melt in higher temperatures. This may look gunky but dirt and grime are locked within the outer layer. This ensures it doesn't form a transmission munching grinding paste, and given time, the grotty stuff will fall away. 

Most noticeably, when its solidified following a cooler period. Unfortunately, in their gooey state, they transfer more readily to hands and clothing. Not ideal, if you're commuting, or doing short "bikes as car" runs in smart trousers.

I carry a couple of latex examination gloves, should a flat/similar roadside mechanical strike. Good practice generally, especially if you are using petrochemical derived formulas.

Speaking of which Rock N' Roll Lubes' UK distributors have kindly sent me samples of the Gold LV and Extreme LV formulas. 

LV stands for low vapour, meaning they're non flammable, so can be transported in the post and on aircraft, without special precautions.  These are not oils, in the commonly accepted sense, so require a different delivery. Strip the chain and cassette of any pre-existing lube (including the factory stuff). 

Shift the chain to the middle of the cassette (as appropriate). Give the  Rock n' Roll a quick shake, undo the cap and apply a continuous flow of lubricant into the chain. Once you've built up a decent layering rotate the cranks for five seconds and clean any excess from the chain's side plates, derailleur jockey wheels etc.  

Now, leave it curing for a few hours. I'm told the Rock n' Roll family are completely compatible. 

Say you wanted to switch from their absolute dry https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/rock-n-roll-absolute-dry-chain-lube to the Extreme LV. There's no need  to go through the stripping rigmarole, simply deliver the Extreme on top. The solvents will remove the sibling product and leave the other in its place. 

They've also sent us some Miracle Red 3in1 degreaser. They tell me its a bio-degreaser, hand cleaner and stain remover. So, theoretically, you can purge stains from your bike, hands and soiled clothing. In the latter context, it should be applied neat to the affected area, then agitated with a finger nail, then rinsed.  

To date, I've used it to purge mildly mucky maulers and dilute as a bike wash, prior to waxing the Univega with this Naked Bikes Pro Bike Wax Special Edition. In common with several other boutique blends I've tested, this one is a hand poured blend of hard and soft waxes. 

Apparently, it contains Si02 technology and reckoned to last uyp to 12 months between applications. In my experience boutique waxes, though expensive, relative to polymer based car types, do last a good while. 

However, I suspect the maximum periods cited are perhaps, based upon machines in dry storage, rather than daily service. Judging by my Univega, the rich glossy effect is impressive, although, unlike Velo21 Ultimate Paintwork Protection https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/velo-21 , there's no mention of compatibility with matt finishes.  

Naked Bikes also sent their Bike Bling and Chain Cleaner. The former is a quick n' convenient detailer, the sort that really brings out the sheen.  Ideally, give recipient bikes a sudsy bucket wash first. Unlike the Pro Green MX Aftershine101 https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/pro-green-mx-triple-pack, which is literally blow n' go,  

Bike Bling has to be worked in, then buffed to a shine. Hardly a hardship mind. 

Every now and then, small miscellaneous parts need running repairs. My tubby tourer's otherwise fabulous Exposure Revo MK1 dynamo wiring was looking a touch weary just above the plug. 

Heat shrink was my first idea. I was halfway to ordering some, when I discovered this Thermoworx White morph. Its a versatile polymer along the same lines as Sugru. 

Only, it can be re-used. Set too quick? Apply a hairdryer to it, and gently reshape. It reacts with hot water (62 degrees upwards). So, decant some of the beads into an old cup, boil a kettle and pour in. 

Stir (an old, clean spoke seems perfect) until it assumes a sticky, toffee like consistency. Mould, apply and leave to set. Setting is VERY rapid, so you need to be prepared to work, apply, and shape quickly.  Strictly speaking, its a modification/ "hacking" rather than repair product in the conventional sense. 

Aside from the damaged outer dynamo cabling, I've added "scuff bumpers" to my Univega's Microshift Brifters, made replacement end caps for the mudguard stays and sealed freshly spruned cable ends. Pretty confident I'll find several others. Bike related, and otherwise.