Conversion Therapy AKA The Bargain that Nearly Wasn't...

 

No, not that sort, although given the political climate, it’s not something I should be flippant about. Having spotted a suitable Shimano 6v 3w unit for the proverbial on a well-known auction site and secured a deal, you can imagine the profound sense of deflation upon discovering it was a thru axle, not quick release version.  Then came the lightbulb moment...Converter kits must be available... A few keystrokes into Google later and several 15-10mm and 12-10mm converters popped up.

Chinese patterns in keeping with patterns per se, ran the risk of them being an imperfect fit. I found a mid-point unit that had received some very positive reviews, so went for it rather than risking something joining the spares bin and ultimately, money wasted. Meantime, I left the hub and Halo White Line hoop with Mick Madgett so he could work his magic.  Another small but significant job off my list before the nights began drawing in.  

Mick finished the build in a few days. I fitted rim tape, added a little Oxford Mint Assembly Grease Oxford Mint Assembly Grease | cycling-not-racing to the converter and slid it into the hub shell-reassuringly snug but should release without too much difficulty. There are, predictably, various schools of thought when it comes to lubricating these. Some advocate copper paste, which can be very effective, and some folks apply this to freehub bodies. However, it can also become a gritty mess after a while, especially during a wet, slimy winter.

Others suggest a silicone-based product and I had considered using this Muc-Off MUC OFF SILICON SHINE POLISH | cycling-not-racing but was a little concerned I might forget to replenish and given a long, wet spell, things might get right royally stuck. Galvanic corrosion can also strike quick release skewers, if they’re not lightly regreased. I’d say quarterly on bikes in hard service (mountain, gravel, commuters, or training bikes) yearly on a sunny day’s plaything.         

Nexus and Alfine are the current dyno hub models within the Shimano range- XT and Ultegra are still available, but not current. Again, it is important to go for the 6V 3W models if you're looking for a good spread of useable light. There are some XT units that are only 1.5w, providing very limited output, although these are frequently offered at a considerable discount.

I like discount but not lighting of the glimmer variety.  I'd looked at Novatec but wasn't overly impressed with their resistance and didn’t want to go too cheap either-it’s not a bargain if it doesn’t deliver what you require of it. DT Swiss also produce a competitively priced hub dynamo in partnership with Shutter Precision.

Elsewhere, I’ve been racking up the miles with these Sidi Aertis MTB Shoes. Our 44 tip the scales at 674g, slightly heavier than my Shimano RX6 go-tos and coming from the Boa setup, Sidi’s Firmor and Tecno 3 closure systems were a little counter intuitive for the first couple of outings, but that’s a minor point and no issues since. The soles are supportive and offer excellent power transfer but are similarly compliant when walking or indeed shouldering the bike through more technical sections.  Bob Elliot & Co sent me these FLR MXT Vibram.

As the name suggests, these are an mtb design employing an aggressive Vibram outer sole, which is designed for riding and walking in more challenging contexts. Interestingly, the upper is made from a water-resistant faux leather, with a reinforced genuine leather toe. Then of course, there’s FLR’s take on the Boa dial.  They certainly feel very rugged, although that is also reflected in their weight-935g for the 44.

Though I still maintain the Peaty’s Lik Lube All Weather is best suited to spring, summer and early autumn, it’s proving my go-to lube for those times when the weather’s predominantly dry but there’s the risk off the odd wet ride. Conditions where most “barely there” dry, or wax formulas are all too readily washed away but heavier formulas can attract grime.

There’s enough for one, maybe two chains in the bottle, but I’m reflecting upon its replacement. There are some obvious choices. Peaty’s Link Lube Dry PEATYS LINK LUBE DRY CHAIN LUBE | cycling-not-racing Blub Ceramic Blub Ceramic Chain Lube | cycling-not-racing  is another, although the latter is best suited to bikes in daily service, since if it will need re-applying, should the bike be unused for 48 hours.

Weldtite TF2 All Weather TF2 PERFORMANCE ALL WEATHER LUBRICANT | cycling-not-racing is a slightly cruder middleweight and attracts more dirt but a little goers surprisingly far and it's inexpensive. The cleaner, the better during this primarily dry period- especially when I’m venturing beyond asphalt.  Silca Super-Secret Chain Coating Silca Super Secret Chain Coating | cycling-not-racing is another option- it's clean and quick curing ….

 

Strip Club

 I needed some mental downtime, and provided I’m not under undue pressure, immersion in a mechanical project can be extremely therapeutic. I’d intended to decompress by giving my fixed gear winter/trainer a midweek sudsy bucket clean and top up the now thirsty looking KMC S1 chain. However, one thing led to three successful missions.  

I was suddenly compelled to check whether Ursula’s RL340 would pull sufficient cable, thus removing any need to disturb the cockpit, save for a new cable and obviously, the bar wrap.  Having measured the TRP compresionless cable set and pruned to approximate length, I placed the wheel and forks into a stand, paired everything together.  

Drum roll...Engaging the lever proved a welcome surprise- decent modulation, travel and feel, no mushiness, sponginess or bottoming out. Hmm...Spotted a primer patch peeking through the School Chair fork, so on went a thin layer of black. Midweek...Should be nicely cured come the weekend... 

Fixed gear winter/trainer washed and rinsed, I topped up the Bike Medicine Purple Extreme Synthetic Chain Lubricant| cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) and gave the saddle a lick of hide food to keep it nourished.  Ditto Ursula’s Cycles Berthoud Soulor CYCLES BERTHOUD SOULOR LEATHER SADDLE | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com)    

While rummaging through various boxes, I resurrected the Infini Sword Super Bright 30 COB rear Light, which pumps out a maximum of 50 lumens and a super frugal flashing mode, genuinely good for 200 hours. No, you read that right. Not that I have any issue with the run times on my current batch of rear LEDs, but a super frugal backup is a serious boon.  

Halo Aerorage Track hub rebuilt; I’ve mounted the Kenda Kwick Roller KS Plus KENDA KWICK JOURNEY TYRES | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com). It’s a super dependable and seemingly durable model well suited to a winter/fixed-especially one forgoing a mechanical rear brake. Dusk’s cloak had well and truly been cast by this point, and I had a business meeting in Milton Keynes the following morning, so I quit while ahead, carefully repatriating everything to the garage.

Overnight Thursday had been extremely wet, with ample red, dusty rain coating cars, windows and garden furniture. Ursula was the obvious choice, especially given I’d just deep cleaned my fixed gear winter/trainer.  

Swift, compliant serenity was rudely interrupted by front mudguard stay chatter-just catching the tyre sidewalls over washboard tarmac. Annoying though. Having addressed another phantom click on Friday morning, I returned from Saturday morning’s blast convinced now was the time to switch the front end.  

Tools, cable, grease, and other essentials lain out, I commenced surgery. This took longer than intended and was defined by contemplative belching, barely audible agricultural utterances, and of course, diesel strength coffee. Wheel off, bar wrap peeled back, I slid the Univega’s triple-butted blades out and placed them gently to one side.  

Next came generous carpet of Peaty’s Assembly Grease PEATY'S BICYCLE ASSEMBLY GREASE | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) to the school chair fork’s crown race and everything was going to plan. The Gusset Headshock system also got a lick of grease before I introduced the mudguard and dialed the top cap’s preload, just to hold everything together. Ryde Andra 40/ Shutter Precision SD8 wheelSHUTTER PRECISION SD8 HUB DYNAMO | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) securely in place, I pruned the TRP cable outer further, remembering the measure twice, cut once mantra, and then fed the inner through the Tektro RL340 lever...

Fed into the outer and TRP Sypre SLC caliper, I was relieved to discover the pads hit the rotor with minimal lever travel. I then discovered that the mudguard stays weren’t long enough to connect with the Día Compe eyelet adaptors. Momentary dejection didn’t linger but my flash of initial inspiration (Bolting the left hand stay to the adaptor mount) caused caliper alignment issues.  

After some faff, I reached for some stocky black cable ties and tethered everything securely to the fork legs. No rattle, no flex. Aside from some minor cable and caliper tweaking, we were on the home straight. Bar dressed and tape secured with a spare finishing strip, I tweaked the Aheadset bearings. A couple of readjustments and rock-tests confirmed all was right, so I reattached dynamo cabling and Sigma BC9.16 computer sensorSIGMA BC9.16 ATS WIRELESS CYCLE COMPUTER | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com). Tyre pressures checked, it’s time for some shakedown rides and to bed in the stopper...Oh but before I do that, here’s my review of the Shimano Alfine Hub Dynamo Shimano Alfine UR700 Hub Dynamo | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com)     

Along Came Alfine

 No sooner had the Alfine idea started becoming the ONLY idea, Madison Cycles graciously sent me a unit for testing, 32 hole and better still, black, which will go handsomely with another Ryde Andra 40 hoop, laced to black spokes. Tipping the scales at 612g (including skewer), Ursula will be the beneficiary and my fixed gear winter trainer will receive the overhauled Shutter Precision PD8 HALO CLASSIC RIM & SHUTTER PRECISION DYNOHUB DISC WHEEL BUILD (sevendaycyclist.com) as before.

I’ve also harvested a silver left hand Tektro RL340 to colour coordinate with the RL520 lever, which will of course, command the TRP SPYRE SLC, once I’ve got some quiet time to strip and bolt everything together. Will be the perfect opportunity to overhaul the Stronglight Aheadset too, lashings of Peaty’s Bicycle Assembly Grease PEATY'S BICYCLE ASSEMBLY GREASE | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) this time around, methinks.  

Peaty’s Speed Grease PEATY'S SPEED GREASE | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com)has really won me over for applications demanding minimal friction and despite some initial suspicion, it’s proved remarkably stoical despite high mileage and often dodgy weather. It’s also best suited to bearings with seals, hence my old school cup n’ cone Campagnolo Athena hubs were fed the last of the Park PPL1. White Lightning Crystal High Performance Grease TESTED : WHITE LIGHTNING CRYSTAL GREASE (sevendaycyclist.com) is another good bet, especially for components employing rubber/composite parts- sealed hubs, suspension components to name but two examples. Then, of course, there’s Green Oil Eco Grease  TWELVE MONTH TEST: GREEN OIL ECO GREASE (sevendaycyclist.com) is another, planet and person-friendly option- I went that route when installing the ti bottom bracket into Ursula’s shell. Then of course there’s lard.

 

No, I’m being facetious. However, 30 years back, I encountered the odd, mechanically inept engineering student sold on this animal-derived product for their bike. On the subject of lubes, here’s my review of the Bike Medicine Purple Extreme Synthetic Chain Lubricant| cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) Ursula’s KMC chain is still hanging on in there, still has a couple of weeks, maybe more before the BBB checker registers .75 and said faithful electroplated chain becomes bin fodder.   

The Lelumia The Beast rear Light continues to impress me with its blend of power and relative frugality. Belting out 150 lumens in the highest setting, 65 lumens is as low as it goes. Not ideal for built-up areas, but bang-on for the backroads, and of course, deterring wheel sucking.   

Talking of deterrent, I’ve received some Motorex Grease Spray. This isn’t a bicycle-specific blend and appears to be an old school lithium blend. Now., this isn’t necessarily a bad thing. Lithium greases are very tenacious and long-lasting. Good bets for headsets and cup n’ cone hub bearings, metal to metal contact points e.g., sealed bearing cartridge bearings (provided the metals are of the same family I.e., aluminium alloy to aluminium alloy, titanium to titanium etc).  

Lye soap and oils are a mixture that bonds very well to metals. However, they can result in galvanic corrosion-a chemical reaction between metals of different parentage, when exposed to the elements, or long sessions on the indoor trainer, seizure can strike. In common with PTFE based blends, they aren’t kind to seals, or other composites either.  Being a sprayable formula also means it also makes a handy internal frame preserve. Good for protecting frame ends, lubing quick-release skewers and of course, those oft-forgotten cleats.  

It’s no secret that I have a “thing” for practical fixed gear builds- sensible clearances, mudguard mounts etc. Machines that follow the short-lived “Road path” narrative, not forgetting what are essentially traditional cyclo cross bikes with mudguard mounts, cantilever bosses etc.

No surprise to discover my excitement at discovering The Brothers Cycle AlldayThe Allday | Brother Cycles while having a wander round the web.  Even closer to the traditional cyclo crosser with track ends narrative in my book. I really like the gold and black spatter fade too. Not my usual colour scheme perhaps and evocative of the champagne and brown effect a friend had on his Raleigh Maverick, back in 1986.