Random Tandem

It’s been a roller coaster week. A full cable refit to Graham’s recently refinished mid 90’s Timberline concluded my test of those Super B TB-WC30 Pro Cable Cutters https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/super-b-tb-wc30-pro-cable-cutters. I was also rather excited by a freshly blasted racing tandem that prepped and plugged, ready for a zinc rich epoxy base coat.

Turns out it’s an early 1950’s Rory O’Brien. Part of the refurb involved removing braze-ons, including the bottle bosses, which struck me as a curious move-even if the machine was being used for short-distance TTs.  

While the forks follow the traditional lugged and brazed construction, the frame is beautifully fillet brazed. Some would say this was an obvious choice for a pared to the essentials race rocket for two, saving precious grams and making it harder to disguise poor workmanship.

Urban myth, on both counts; though not commonly practiced during this frame’s era, TIG welding still translates into a lighter build, saving approximately 340g on a typical tandem frameset.

Fillet brazing is a process where brass is built up in layers, forming a very strong, uniform bond.  A frame constructed this way stands a better chance of survival following a collision with a tree, or parked car.

Talking of cars, anything other than fusion welding will signal MOT failure but a decent coachbuilder could successfully join two old school Jaguars together without any fear of failure. Motorcycle frames were also fabricated using this method.  

Being more labour intensive, there’s a cost implication but less competent/experienced builders can still get away with sloppy work. Done properly, large, smooth even fillets are all you’ll see. Be wary of overbite (where the tube has been filed at the fillet). This creates a stress point, which can result in premature and potentially fatal frame failure.  

John Moss has been focusing upon getting the Mango’s Di2 and Alfine hub combo harmonious but a conversation about machine shops and this Chinese made titanium seat post ignited his curiosity. Staying wit the Di2, he’s been having problems getting the shifters to communicate as he’d hoped with the 11spd Alfine hub. John’s career as a highly skilled technician means he loves to diagnose, fault find and continuously improve equipment.

I explained I had a 27.2 Ti post doing something nothing close to nothing and was toying with the idea of having it machined down to 26.0. This could then replace the Univega’s otherwise likeable BBB skyscraper. After some calculations and precision measurements, he calculated with a carbide tip, he could shave 136mm from the bottom, thus it would slide securely into the tubby tourer’s seat tube. Modern social history, human geography and industrial decline are subjects that have always fascinated me. Most cities have their no-go districts, or at least those with ill-repute.

Hillfields in Coventry has an unenviable reputation for being the city’s red-light district. Levels of deprivation are high, just as some inner London Boroughs including Hackney (despite the latter’s superficial gentrification, some might say, socio-economic cleansing).

However, it’s renown for being the region’s red-light area, drugs and associated criminal activity being consequently rife. I had always presumed this had been a relatively recent phenomenon, a’la Dagenham intensifying when the car factories and similar business left.

Anecdotally John and several other reliable sources refute my hypothesis. I’ve heard tales from the 1950s of organised criminal activity, including protection rackets, money laundering and of course, drugs. During the 1950s a smartly dressed young man walked into a Café’ and was greeted with smiles and warm acknowledgement.

A few minutes later, a woman running said eatery heard a scream and discovered the young man’s throat had been slit-in road daylight. She called for an ambulance and applied pressure to the wound using a clean tea-towel until paramedics arrived. The man survived.     

Conversation with Graham at Maldon Shot blasting & Powder Coating suggested painting the exposed section satin black wouldn’t be an issue either. It was decided that because of the metal’s characteristics, attempting to blast the surface (giving the paint fighting chance of staying put) was a non-starter, so he’d use an acid etch primer instead...Stay tuned…

Establishing Connections

Presently organising venue(s) for September’s “everyday beauty” photo shoot-some folks are more helpful than others but a few decent options cropped up and the sands of time remain favourable.

My mother commissioned me to photograph a local landscape, which has been blown up on a 5x4 foot weather proof canvas. Primarily a centrepiece for her carport’s sound, though bland brickwork, it’s also an inexpensive bit of advertising.

I’m continually frustrated by the tsunami of people willing to work for free under the misguided notion they will gain experience and exposure before slipping seamlessly into a salaried career. Creative industries, such as photography and journalism are ravaged by this myopia. At best such behaviours devalue skilled vocations, fuelling a race to the bottom economy. If commercial, profit making entities can acquire goods and services for nothing, they will, sending an industry straight to the morgue. 

Ah but they’re giving me the byline/photo credit, leading to valuable…People look at the visuals, not to see who produced them. Proud mothers may scan the credits of TV shows in search of their freelance offspring but in practice, the viewing public generally flicks channels, nips to the loo, or for a brew.

Frankly, if you’re determined to cut your teeth, or expand port-folios, get in touch with small, grass roots charitable organisations and see what reciprocal deal can be struck. Payment needn’t always be monetary-at least to begin with. I’ve done photo shoots at cost for friends-of friends, which has led to useful, word-of-mouth exposure and subsequent paid commissions.

However, I’ve been implicit in my terms/conditions and most people have repaid me in kind, many times over. Anything used for commercial purposes must be paid for.  Ran over, now to my week on two and four wheels…         

This Jagwire CGX SL “Universal sport” brake cableset also arrived in serendipitous fashion; just in time for a cable group test and the Ilpompino’s RL250/Cane Creek transplant. A penny shy of £20 buys wound steel outers with internal sleeve, stainless steel inners and “slick lube” lining, cable stops, end caps and doughnuts.

Length is pretty generous too-300cm of outer cable while inners measure 135/235cm front and rear respectively. Ours was the black with retro-reflective detailing-brilliant for workhorses and winter bikes, although purple and yellow are the alternatives. The M-Part bar wrap is also fairing up very nicely, despite being unravelled on four separate occasions, although I think any further disruption will be its last. 

This combination has transformed the already fairly potent front stopper, delivering precisely the sort of modulation, feel and stopping prowess I’d been looking for in a disc setup. I’ve always liked firm feedback; something I attribute to early exposure to European components characterised by strong springs. However, their action is very light, which is good news for smaller hands. This preference also applies to other vehicles-car and motorcycle clutches being obvious examples, although perhaps the cable operated VW type were a press too far.

Speaking of cars…. After some trial and error, the Ka’s erratic starting and idling was traced to an expiring Idle Speed Control Valve. Unlike its Endura engine predecessor, this hadn’t missed a beat in over 105,000 miles.

Access is much harder too, so best left to a helpful independent garage unless you’re a competent DIY/mechanic. Given its age, I opted for replacement rather than cleaning, bringing the total bill to £151.12 (including VAT). Reticent starting, unexpected stalling-often when approaching junctions, needing to keep the revs higher in slow moving traffic all point its way.

Most armchair experts are oblivious to the different physical geographies; hence finding credible guidance online requires persistence.

Removal and cleaning of the Endura unit is a twenty minute affair, well within a beginners grasp. You’ll need an old ice cream tub, retired tooth brush, carb cleaner/similar strong solvent and ideally a torque wrench, although in a pinch, 10mm ring/socket spanners will do.

Start by depressing the wire clip and sliding it from the electrical contexts. Next undo the two 10mm bolts and slide away from the inlet manifold. Pop this hardware in a zipped pocket, or ice cream tub/similar receptacle. Place the ICV unit in the bowl and check for a coating of black, sooty deposit.

Deliver the solvent inside, then scrub vigorously with that old toothbrush-repeating the last two stages until the grot’s dissolved. Refit as before, giving fasteners a cursory lick of medium strength threadlock and the cure is complete. The KA club also provide a very informative step-by-step guide on their site http://www.kaklub.co.uk/pwpcontrol.php?pwpID=1898

Shot ICV? £50 from car parts supplier, or you might be able to source a serviceable, second-hand example from a breaker for considerably less...