Master Blasters & Brake Upgrades

I’ve been curious about some ultra-powerful lights for a while now. A deviation from my dynamo devotion, perhaps, but I’ve also been feeling those unmade roads and dirt trails calling Ursula and I as we whizz past. Magicshine offer models with 8,000 and 12000 lumens but I was more intrigued by Ravemen’s interpretation of the “turn night into day” narrative.  

Their UK importer (Bob Elliot & Co Bob Elliot Co Ltd - Suppliers of high quality bicycle supplies to registered traders (bob-elliot.co.uk) sent me the Ravemen XR6000, which delivers a maximum of 6,000 lumens and reckoned good for 1.2 hours. Crucially, there are trail and road settings too, so you’re not going to be dazzling everyone and there’s a wireless remote to make responsible use effortless.   

Aside from the headlining 6,000 lumens, the next prod down is 3,000 lumens (2 hours) and low, 1500 lumens, reckoned to return 4 hours from a full charge of the 8000mAh/7.2 v battery. There are similarly versatile road settings too, projecting a localised flood for broad sweeps and a long-range spot for picking out the detail. The road is a more moderate 1500lumens, 1000lumens and 500 lumens with official run times of 3.5, 5.5 and 10.5 hours, respectively. There's also a rapid flash, for emergencies. 

Build quality is extremely high, not that I’d expect anything less from Ravemen and it's reflected in the £389.99 asking price. The head unit meets IPX8 for weatherproofing (in common with the PR family) and (along with the mount) is made from aluminium alloy with a Mill Type III hard anodised finish.This also serves as a highly effective heat sink, meaning diodes and circuitry stand a sporting chance of leading long and happy lives.  

Naturally, there’s also a thermal cut-out for added protection. 9 diodes in total are projected through an anti-glare lens that produces a T-shaped beam, much like those common in automotive applications.  

The high-low system works in much the same way, so you can quickly dip, to avoid dazzling. The 18-watt battery requires 4.5 hours for a full mains charge and is encased in a “high-quality plastic” which meets IPX6 for weatherproofing. Another similarity with its PR cousins is the easy-to-read OLED display, so you can easily see how much juice/ride time’s left.  

You can also plug in a power bank and other goodies, such as a phone, should you need to refuel them mid-ride. The complete system weights 661g which is a mere 24g portlier than the Sigma Buster HL2000 SIGMA SPORT BUSTER HL 2000 | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com)  

Elsewhere, I’ve concluded the RL520 levers are a better fit with discs than the otherwise likeable RL340. The latter still offer reasonable performance but the RL520 are designed specifically with V brakes and cable-operated discs in mind. In truth, I’ve gone for black and kept the RL340 behind since it’s designed for cantilevers, and I don’t fancy locking the rear wheel every time I grab the rear brake with any conviction.  

Regularly alternating between the Fixed and Ursula (both running TRP Spyre SLC callipers, identical discs and cables) confirmed the fixed’s RL520 supplies palpably more power. Dia Compe’s 287V Aero V Brake levers pull a claimed 20mm of cable and though highly effective, erred on the fierce side.  

Either way, I took that opportunity to introduce it with a new cable. The 520’s hood profile is slimmer than the RL340, but you’d have to inspect very closely, and the levers aren’t going to present an issue aesthetically, or operationally. A bitterly chill 20-mile test run confirmed this was the right move- oodles more progressive bite, no judder or squeal either.

I say bitterly chill but winter weight soft shell jacket with wind and waterproof membrane locked the wind out and Madison Freewheel Men’s Thermal Bib Tights with Pad Madison Freewheel Thermal Bib Tights | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) are still going strong. I’ve not reached for the Belgian cap just yet but that’ll appear, along with the Schwalbe Ice Spiker Pro this week Schwalbe Ice Spiker Pro Tyres | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) 

Talking of change, this grey EVE handlebar tape arrived, and I decided it was best adorning the fixed’s Genetic D-Riser 4 bars. GENETIC DRISER 4 HANDLEBARS | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com). But before I disappear to the workshop, here’s Steve’s review of The Castelli Commute Reflex Jacket Castelli Commute Reflex Jacket | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) 

 

Stoppage... AKA Urgent Refurbs

Some lovely rotors and pads arrived from Disco Brakes DiscoBrakes.Com :: Shop :: DiscoBrakes Shop . I wasted no time in removing the long serving and dependable TRP rotor and popping the 160mm Vibe in situ. Cursory inspection suggested my fixed gear winter/trainer’s TRP SLC callipers' organic pads were still passable, so SP PD8 HALO CLASSIC RIM & SHUTTER PRECISION DYNOHUB DISC WHEEL BUILD (sevendaycyclist.com) wheel back in situ. Much to my dismay the next morning, stopping prowess had all but vanished...  

Returning home, closer examination revealed muck and accumulated grime were giving a false impression of ample pad material. These had been in situ for 10 months and judging by their condition, should’ve been replaced after 6, maybe 7. The generally accepted rule is replace once the pad has 1.5mm (about 0.03 in) material left. A quick word about pad material, while I’m here. Organic pads (sometimes referred to as resin pads) have a lot in their favour.  

Commonly made from a blend of Kevlar, Rubber, and Silica with a resin bonding, they are quiet, offer sharper braking, and bed in easily. The compound offers excellent insulation against heat build-up, too, although on the flip side, are more predisposed to fade. A minor, if not moot point on a lightweight bike and rider. However, a definite consideration on a touring tandem, or recumbent for example. They also wear relatively quickly in harsh, or mucky conditions, so might not be the best options for winter riding, especially off-road.  

Now, I had a couple of organic Spyre SLC pads in stock, but Disco Brakes were gracious enough to send me some sintered and semi-metallic pads for testing.  Sintered, sometimes referred to as metallic pads are made from bonded metal particles.  In theory, these will last longer than their organic counterparts, especially in wet, muddy, and gritty contexts. They are less prone to fade, so will work better on those long descents.  

However, compared with organic types they need to “warm up” before reaching optimal “bite”, take longer to bed in, and can be noisier. Now, though not relevant on a cable-operated setup, such as mine, the metal components will transfer greater heat to hydraulic fluids, than an organic variant.  

Then again, they’re much less prone to glazing over and last longer. I’ve gone the semi-sintered route. On paper, these should be the best of both worlds, hence my decision. As the name might imply, these are a mix of organic and metal, so take less time to reach performance, shouldn’t fade on long descents, and last better than organic pads in grotty contexts. I’ve never had any problems with pad glaze, but this can be an issue with organic and semi-metallic models, so we’ll see.  

I stripped and cleaned the calipers since these were coated in oily contaminant and the inner cable was fraying. Having stripped back the Souma leather bar tape Souma Leather Handlebar Tape | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com), to get better access to the outer cable and thus route the inner wire through more effectively, I noticed a lot of slop in the Cane Creek SC5 V Brake Lever CANE CREEK V BRAKE DROP BAR LEVERS | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com), and its internal resin cable tunneling was also showing signs of wear.

I’d come this far... I exchanged the Cane Creek SC5 for this silver Tektro RL520, which is also designed with V and cable-operated discs in mind. (I’d originally earmarked it for Ursula’s disc brake upgrade but discovered the RL340 would work just fine.)  

Next came a fresh stainless steel inner wire (the last in my stock, prompting a further order).

Cables, pads, and chains are all things likely to fail at the least convenient moment, so well worth having a couple in hand. Overhaul complete and braking is better than ever. It also prompted a more thorough Inspection of Ursula’s SLC caliper and pads.  

No such issues but a reminder for more regular investigation and pad replacement. I’ve fitted the other six-bolt Disco Brakes Rotor to the SD8 HALO EVURA & SHUTTER PRECISION SL9 DYNOHUB BUILD (sevendaycyclist.com) wheel though since it was superior to the serviceable auction site special. Chain and other drivetrain components were also in very rude health, which is a welcome surprise. I’m up to 1600miles on the KMC and on this trajectory, reckon I’ll get to 2,200 before replacements’ prudent. Mick Madgett finished re-building my SL9 HALO EVURA & SHUTTER PRECISION SL9 DYNOHUB BUILD (sevendaycyclist.com) wheel too, so looking set for the winter, now.