Sitting On It

 

I’ve always liked a bargain but there’s a significant difference between bargain and false economy. Often, it’s a very subtle differential in price too. I’ve reasoned that if I’m typically returning 1300miles from a ten-speed chain, especially during winter, then there’s some sense in economising here. I default to KMC these days, but my search engine flagged up a 116 link Clarks for £8.99.  

All that glitters is not gold, or indeed nickel plated. I opted for two slightly cheaper KMC, keeping them in stock until Ursula and Denise’s existing chains reach .7 on the chain checker. Chains, cables, brake pads and the odd cassette are parts I like to keep in stock, since they usually fail at the least convenient point and in the case of chains, can wear remarkably quickly.  

While Ursula’s front RL340 proved an effective job of commanding the TRP Spyre, upgrading it to a 520 was the right move. I’ve re-discovered the 340 pairing, and will put these aside for Denise, should need arise, now I’ve decided the non-aero route was but a 5-minute wonder. I’d also toyed with popping some new hoods on an old set of Campagnolo Athena (which if I recall were reversible) but boils down to change for changes sake, essentially and not the best use of my time.   

I’ve replaced Ursula’s front pads with these DiscoBrakes Sintered Brake Pads | cycling-not-racing since I was doing a deep clean. That said; I was pleasantly surprised to discover once I’d removed the sludgy grime, a decent amount of pad material remained on the substituted pair. I’ve popped them away in my disc pads packet and will re-use another time.      

Left unchecked a worn chain will chomp through more expensive drivetrain components-cassettes, rings and derailleurs. This is particularly costly on a touring lorry with old school triple setup. Keeping a touring triple on song year-round can be something of a chore, so changing the chain just before it’s spent saves time, money and hassle. Rim wear is also rapid, if your bike(s) run rim brakes and don’t keep an eye on pad health. Regularly cleaning them of grit and other embedded muck will extend the life of both, with relatively little effort and save a lot of money long term.    

Talking of tourers, Raleigh’s Sojourn was an interesting model which I spent quite a bit of time testing back in 2012.  

However, despite handsome looks and some definite charms, with the stock wheelset it was less responsive and engaging than I’d come to expect, even from a traditional tourer, which is designed to handle predictably while hauling the kitchen sink. The sojourn sprung back from the vaults of my bike testing consciousness when someone posted their much modified and recently re-finished (powder coated) example.  

Despite some definite charm, I would upgrade the wheelset- probably to Ryde Sputnik, XT rear, Nexus, or Alfine Shimano Alfine UR700 Hub Dynamo | cycling-not-racing dynohub up front. Rubber-wise, and assuming we’re going the full mudguard (fender) route) I’d go for something like the Pirelli Angel DT Urban c. 37mm Pirelli Angel DT Urban Tyre | cycling-not-racing. I’d possibly ditch the metal guards for chrome plastics, too. Though functional enough, I was never really taken with Avid BB5, or other single piston mechanical callipers, finding them tricky to adjust and prone to rub.  

They’d be substituted for TRP Spyre and decent quality sealed cables, such as these Jagwire Road Elite Sealed Brake Kit Jagwire Road Elite Sealed Brake Kit | cycling-not-racing   Staying with the stock theme, I’d also switch the Sora brifters for Tektro RL520 and bar cons of some description. Alternatively, something like Kona Dew Drop might be a better starting point. Much of it for me comes down to the right price.    

I’ve done enough time sat on the WTB Rocket saddle, which has proven very agreeable to my derriere, despite being narrower than my bike fit ideal WTB Rocket Saddle | cycling-not-racing. It’s offered ample support, the subtle pressure relieving channel has done its thing competently, without fuss, or fanfare.  Contact points generally, and saddles specifically are very personal things and not an exact science.  

With a favourite go-to technical shell coming to the end of its useful life, the arrival of this Madison Stellar Ultra Reflective Men’s Waterproof Jacket was also timely. Aside from the bold yellow and retina tickling retro-reflective detailing, waterproofing and breathability are 10,000 apiece and there’s a big waterproof breast pocket and at £79.99 it's competitively priced so will be interesting to see how it performs in the coming weeks.    

 

Wild Horses

Several weeks and a few hundred mixed terrain miles later, I’ve reached some definite conclusions about the Revolution Cross 2 http://www.sevendaycyclist.com/revolution-cross-2.

It’s been a very welcome guest and we’re inviting other brands to send us their ‘genre blurring models to see how they compare in similar contexts. Raleigh has said they will be putting their £650 Maverick forward. http://www.raleigh.co.uk/ProductType/ProductRange/Product/Default.aspx?pc=1&pt=14&pg=15774

Sharing the Claris drivetrain (albeit 2x8) and Tektro Spyre brakes, its’ based around a 6061 aluminium frame and carbon fork and reckoned to weigh 2 kilos less-looking forward to swinging my leg over the 56cm’s top tube. 

Back on my blue/grey ‘cross inspired fixer, it’s been reminding me of what I've been missing, especially on the climbs.

For now the Avid BB7 and Cane Creek lever combo are delivering decent modulation and feel, although I’m still very tempted by the Spyre...Elsewhere, I’ve swapped its Time pedals over to the Holdsworth in exchange for the blue Issi and replaced the Ilpompino’s KMC Z1X chain, like for like, which also succeeded in killing three long serving chain tools!

Over three years hell n’ high water service hence; my Shimano R82 sports touring/Audax shoes are beginning to look decidedly peaky in places, so I’ve resurrected these very impressive Quoc Pham. A contemporary take on the classic touring shoe, the upper is made from high quality cowhide with lace lock lace system and 3M reflective heel strip.

This takes a while to break in but aided by a periodic lick of hide food, moulds beautifully to the foot. The outer sole is moulded rubber and features a hardened mid section and an unusually aggressive, SPD sole for improved grip. Power transfer isn’t quite on par with super stiff race slippers perhaps but it’s still very good. Craftsmanship and more importantly, long distance riding comfort is superb.

       

I went clipless back in 1992 with some Look ARC and patent leather Diavolo shoes (£50 all in from a local bike shop) but testing aside, my preference lies with the recessed SPD/R types. Discovered during my mud biased mid 90s, their sheer convenience is hard to beat.

Fixed, I can click in without needing to coax the pedal body into position, wet slimy decking aside, there’s little chance of me going down like the proverbial sack of spuds when its a bit slippery, or gouging holes in expensive lino.    

With autumn just around the corner, we’re beginning our lighting group tests. There’s the odd master blaster involved but otherwise, rather like megapixels, its more about the quality of lens and diodes, rather than firepower per se.

Models with several settings ranging from 800 down to 100/flashing modes cater for pretty much everything you’d need for the darkest rural roads through to well-lit city centres.

In the past I’ve been curious and even indulged in the 1,000 plus models offered on auction sites but while bright, they’re just too aggressive and beam quality/useable light doesn’t match that of those boasting 600 or so. In top mode, they can simply dazzle other road users-potentially dangerous, not to mention, extremely aggravating.

That said; I’ve used some budget (sub £100 CE compliant) official imports to excellent effect and the lower, steady settings can return 3-4 hours before kicking into flashing/SOS to conserve juice. Battery packs have become increasingly compact, riding unobtrusively beneath the top tube, rather than consuming a bottle cage.    

For those who don’t want, or need this additional clutter, tuneable torch types can be ideal for middle distance commuting and training but consider run-times carefully, if you’re tackling long stretches of unlit road. Several offer 600-800 lumens but there’s usually a serious trade off where run times are concerned-expect an hour or so, tops. However, they can strike just the right balance for those who generally ride in sub/urban contexts but want to indulge in some back road scratching after work.

Those with 300-400 lumens and several settings are surprisingly useful too, my choice for late summer evenings, where time can slip away and dusk set in unexpectedly. Blinkies are arguably all that’s required for getting home with in these contexts but I still prefer a proper light up front, blinkies acting as backing singers-especially given the all too prevalent culture of victim blaming-litigious, or otherwise.   

There is an increasingly popular trend for combining products-Cycliq fly 6 LED with integral camera being an excellent example. Along with Moon’s surprisingly potent Gemini, Raleigh has sent us this Icon + unit, which tailors light automatically to suit conditions.

http://www.raleigh.co.uk/ProductType/ProductRange/Product/Default.aspx?pc=2&pt=117&pg=18570

It’s capable of producing 190 lumens and even features a movement sensor, triggering an alert to your smart phone, indicating that your bike is being moved and potentially vandalised/stolen. Useful additional security when supping coffee and sharing ideas at a cafe’ stop; on that note, I’m going to see if this stuff is a creative kick start or belongs behind the creosote...