Ride, Tweak, Refine & Return to Wax

 

I concluded I’d the cable tension a little too tight, thus wasn’t getting the right amount of travel and ultimately power from Muffin’s TRP SLC calliper. An easy fix, just a matter of slackening the cable very slightly, then snugging down. Sometimes it pays to run a component in and then make a single adjustment-my experience with Magura Hydro stops, which I had fitted to a Kona Lava Dome some 27 years back. Impressive stopping prowess but tempered by stubborn setup.  

Early season generally means middleweight chain lubes, Weldtite All Weather Lube Weldtite All Weather Lube | cycling-not-racing being a particularly good, wallet friendly default in my experience. Sometimes, conditions permit something lighter and cleaner. I’ve had very mixed experiences with wax formulas in changeable conditions, some are more durable than others. Momum MIC Momum MIC Wax Lube | cycling-not-racingand Smoove TEST & REVIEW: SMOOVE UNIVERSAL CHAIN LUBE: SUMMER TEST have a definite edge in these contexts.

That established, I’ve been sent KMC Go. Now, given KMC’s immense experience manufacturing chains, I was very intrigued. Retailing at £ 17.50 for 150ml, its relatively pricey, so I’m expecting something rather good. KMC say it’s “Designed to significantly reduce friction, enhance shifting and providing optimum efficiency”. Look closely and you’ll notice a chain’s side plates decorate the seam.  

It promises to create a durable water repelling, friction reducing microfilm and supposedly more durable than oil-based products. While good practice to deep clean drivetrains before switching to different brands and genres, waxes are very particular, so aim for surgically clean rings, cassettes, derailleur jockey wheels and cages. This also presented the opportunity to scrutinise the Izumi track chain for wear and its Ok, but I’ll be replacing in the coming weeks.

If I’ve been running oil-based middleweights for any period, I may remove the crank, baste the inner ring in degreaser and leave it marinating for a little while, before introducing a suitably clean, stiff brush. There’s a solid argument for removing rings, chain and cassette and leaving them marinating in a parts washer-or indeed an ultrasonic cleaner, should means allow.  

Now, I’m a big fan of the chain cleaner brushes, particularly this Oxford Chain Brush Pro Oxford Chain Brush Pro | cycling-not-racing and Finish Line’s Grunge Brush Solo  Finish Line Grunge Brush Solo | cycling-not-racing . However, while I’ve found some passable bike-specific brushes for purging cassettes, I’ve yet to find one that excels, which has prompted me to go the heavy-duty dish scrubber route. While wandering the supermarket isles, I spotted this one and it looked suitably sturdy and the handle seems suitably ergonomic.

Ask someone about degreasers, or drivetrain cleaners and you’ll get a tsunami of differing opinions, some advocating high end premium formulas, others more industrial citrus blends and another group advocating washing up liquid (dish soap) as the only way forward, claiming that all bike-related products are a big con. Let’s explore this a little…The problem with washing up liquids is (a) they contain salt, which isn’t good for painted, plated, anodised, or lacquered surfaces, seals and rubberised parts. (b) Then of course, these are designed for organic fats, not petrochemicals, so while they might shift mud and similar gloop, they’re not optimal for petrochemical based chain lubes, greases etc.  

Fenwick’s FS1 concentrate is a good default, but I’ve had great results using Squirt Bike Cleaner Concentrate SQUIRT BIKE CLEANER CONCENTRATE | cycling-not-racing and for a long time, Green Oil’s Degreaser Gel GREEN OIL CLEAN CHAIN DEGREASER JELLY ruled the roost in my workshop. I used to have a litre supply. A workshop friendly 5 litre version is available for £145. I’m pondering my next formula, once this Dynamic Bio Drivetrain Detox is exhausted. For reference, it’s pretty economical-I’ve been using it regularly across the fleet since late spring 2025.   

Elsewhere, I’ve been sent this Lezyne KTV Drive Front. It’s a compact safety light in the classic sense of the word, producing a maximum of 200lumens. The sort that makes a good backup for extended summer playtimes on best bikes, or as backing singer to a higher power dynamo lamp. This one is a very practical black, but red, white and blue are the alternatives.

Talking of practical, it complies with IPX7 for weatherproofing, which is reassuringly good. This means it will withstand immersion in water for up to 30minutes-not that I’d be going bog snorkelling with it but stands more than a sporting chance in the worst most road, or indeed, gravel outings will throw at us. I’ve still some Lezyne lights going strong a decade or so down the line.  In terms of modes and outputs, there are five-two steady (70 and 15 lumens) and three flashing (200lumen day, 30 and 15 lumens). The KTV has been around for a good while, but there have been some rather impressive improvements in run time-a claimed 40 hours for flash 1 and flash 2.

 I’ll leave it here with Paul Brodie’s restoration and modification of a 1988 Rocky Mountain, since I like his channel and find his skill very relaxing.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pdBWFtQJiZ0&list=WL&index=3&t=81s

Ramble On

 Clement weather has allowed more playtime on the Holdsworth, and I’m pleased that I went the star-fangled nut route since the once excellent expander wedge wasn’t doing its thing. A steady cadence and 30kmh (18.6mph) average on a local loop but there have been a few moments, on the climbs when I’ve felt the 81inch gear a little lofty. Brake and lever tweaks were inspired decisions too.  

I was also pondering upgrading the fixed gear winter/trainer’s chain tugs for a set of MKS. Hardly a priority, in the grand scheme of things, not to mention supply and therefore, cost implications.  

Rationale’ for this? In my experience, the MKS maintains chain tension better, in my experience. Save for wheel removals, I’ve not needed to tweak the Holdsworth’s-ever. Mileage depending, I’m tweaking the winter fixed’s every four weeks. Factors such as chain quality play a part- the S1 were cheap, but crucially cheerful, so will stay, although when it comes to bang for buck, KMC’s Z510HX is hard to beat. Gusset’s S link (half-link) model was another favourite a good for fixed gear conversions, although at 360g, heft may be unpalatable for some.  

Besides, while “use what you have” is generally sound business practice, it's particularly prudent, given the present economic climate.

I always recommend some form of lighting, even during the height of summer. In these parts, sunrise strikes before 430am. Early morning blasts, or extended playtimes on the best bike (s) can be changeable and relatively powerful safety lights can be a boon, should dusk catch you napping, you get lost, or mechanical strike.  

Overkill perhaps, but I’m running the Magic Shine Ray 2600 up front. As the name suggests, it’s capable of delivery of 2600lumens. However, I’m running the 330-lumen flashing and pulsing settings, which are the most frugal and very captivating. At the rear, A 60 lumen Moon Shield. Arguably overkill in the highest settings and assuming you hadn’t fried their retinas, likely to induce anger and rebuke at close quarters for any period.  

I also retain a fondness for the original Magic Shine See Mee 200, which still gets used a far bit, nearly two years down the line. However, I found the “braking” function a little too sensitive and prolonged, which put a palpable dent in the run times.  

Against this backdrop, Magicshine has sent me their V2. There are several revisions. Dis/engaging the braking function only requires a 3, rather than 5-second press. This version has also been simplified in terms of modes, which for me, is another improvement.  

Sometimes, less is more. The original had eight in total, the V2 has four- two constant, two flashing-alongside a smart mode. They’ve also sent me their See Mee 150 Combo. A front and rear pairing delivering 150lumens, in their highest of four and six modes, respectively. The 150 rear, is markedly smaller than the 200, due to the latter's second “tracer” lens that casts a flood beam at the road.  

Not essential, nor completely unique- I have others employing similar technologies. This Tern hugging the Holdsworth’s seat post, being a case in point. As an aside, the mount has proved interchangeable with others in the family I’ve used-the 100, 180 specifically. A small but welcome thing, reducing production costs into the bargain.  

I’ve slipped the 150 front atop Ursula’s Soma Condor 2 bars SOMA CONDOR 2 SHALLOW DROP BARS | (sevendaycyclist.com) and run the 200 behind, whereas the rear 150 is gracing my fixed gear winter trainer’s Cane Creek Thud Buster G4 

 

I also received a second Souma Leather Bar Tape, so wasted no time in treating Ursula’s bars, not least since I’m interested to see how good damping sans asphalt is. My hypothesis is that gel underlays are the way forward if you’re doing a lot of adventurous touring. The sort involving unmade roads, or indeed, gravel.  

Curiously, this sample was easier to apply than the first. Allowing for factors such as bar shape, natural products, vary slightly when it comes to density, finish and “give”. This would probably explain why getting it started and flowing uniformly took much less effort The finish also seems grippier, from the outset-regardless of glove/palm type, which was another pleasant surprise. As were these Salice Glasses, modeled here, by Miriam.