Tooled Up & Misdirected Blame

 

With hedge-clipping season in full swing, my attention turned to tyres, tubes and crucially tyre levers. The latter are largely forgotten until we're crouched by the roadside on a cold and rainy night, trying to release a particularly tight bead. With this in mind, Weldtite has sent me their 2.0 tyre levers and a rather nice looking twenty-function multi-tool.

The latter's design is reminiscent of the Crank Brothers M19 with its knurled side plates for grip-even with sweaty palms or wearing winter gloves. I’ve an M17 still serving, it’s a little world weary now, the chain tool long expired and a bent (but still operational) 3m Allen key.  One of the more interesting features-a welcome addition in principle is the disc brake rotor tool.  

They also sent me the smaller version of their Rubber Workshop Matt with Magnet. The Rubber ensures it won’t slide around and the magnetic layer ensures you’ll foil rogue felines looking to play ball bearing billiards. I’ve gone for the smaller size since it’s portable, meaning I can do small jobs, like headset and hub overhauls outside, should need, or fancy take me. The relatively thick rubber will protect surfaces, especially if exerting force- say exorcising a stubborn pedal, or hub.

Having tweaked the Spyre into what I believed was sweet submission, I was still experiencing a faint, intermittent tinkling. I decided a quiet byway was the best place to conduct a thorough troubleshoot.  Monitoring the rotor and pads with sporadic acceleration confirmed this wasn't the culprit.

A gentle tug of the cassette revealed some minor, but palpable play, suggesting the freehub was the most likely culprit. Post-ride investigation confirmed this. Murphey's Law also revealed the spare XT laced hoop was also showing signs of isolated play. Yup, another freehub bit the dust.

Not having replacement freehubs and hub bearings to hand, I decided the most efficient use of time and energy was to leave both wheels with Madgetts Cycles. This was an opportunity to get everything checked ahead of winter, while I tackled other pressing matters.

Decent bike shops are worth their weight in gold. Just because we can do the jobs, it’s not always convenient, or the best use of our time.  I’d have my wheels sorted and ready by the time it took two compatible freehubs to arrive in the post. 

All this had me pondering the acquisition of a newer XT hub running a centre lock disc and having that built into a wheel, laced three-cross for some added strength. Not that I'm unduly heavy or have a less than compassionate riding style, but greater stress is placed upon the rear wheel, especially with a disc brake.

I'd contemplated 36 spokes, but chances are I'll stick with a 32, since this would allow me to use an existing rim.  The most likely candidate being that presently hosting the Halo Spin Doctor, which has done a very modest mileage.  During this phase, I spotted this 36-hole Shimano FH-RM70 going for proverbial pennies. Loosely comparable with Alivio, it’s simple and rugged, although will benefit from a really beefy grease to keep winter’s worst out. Designed for rim brakes, its most likely something I’d have built into a spare wheel for Denise.   

Meantime, I’d noted Ursula’s chain was closer to .6, so replaced it, along with one of the cassettes, since a new chain will only kick up on new sprockets and vice-versa. I’ve reverted to wax while the autumn seems fair-weather, although chances are I’ll default to the Weldtite All Weather Weldtite All Weather Lube | cycling-not-racing . Weldite have also sent me their Wet Lube, which I’m advised is a successor to their Extreme Wet WELDTITE TF2 EXTREME WET CHAIN LUBRICANT .

The Extreme wet was a mix of ISO oils and specialist additives, whereas the wet consists of (detail). While stodgy wet lubes will attract dirt ad grit, which left unchecked, can significantly shorten the lifespan of drivetrain components, they still have their place.  Aside from staying put in really harsh conditions, they double as passable grease substitutes on fasteners- stem bolts, mudguard and rack, bottle screws and cleats being prime examples. A drop into electroplated Allen heads will also fend off the dreaded orange taint.

Too heavy for cables, a drop on the ends where they enter the ferrule will help seal the elements out. Another useful product that works well on cables is Finish Line 1 Step Cleaner and Lube TEST & REVIEW: FINISH LINE 1-STEP CLEANER AND LUBE. Marketed primarily as a chain lube, the aerosol version is particularly effective-I’ve witnessed it bring gummed up shifters back from the brink with a couple of blasts. The solvent component does the cleaning and leaves a light lube-much sturdier than a maintenance spray behind.

In a pinch, a few drops of wet lube will also keep quick release skewers mobile-at least until you can get to some decent grease. I’ve been fairly impressed by the Juice Lubes Slick Juice Juice Lubes Slick Juice Low Friction Gre | cycling-not-racing which is kind to rubberised and composite components, so can be applied most components and surfaces.  Obviously not for carbon and other materials requiring a gripper paste.

Right, since we’re creeping ever closer to the wetter months, I’ll leave you with Steve’s review of the Leatt MTB Hydradri 5.0 Jacket Leatt MTB Hydradri 5.0 Jacket | cycling-not-racing

Reinvention, Regeneration & Reward

 

Genetic Neuron accessory mount in situ across both bikes, I've found a cheap but cheerful stem with 45- degree rise and wasted no time in slotting the Ridgeback Gravel drops in situ, followed by the Dia Compe EVO V levers. There's no getting away from the fact I knew this idea would gather momentum- I could see my mind's mechanisms turning and doubtless you could too. However, it will stay in this state of limbo for now- the existing setup is perfectly functional and in good aesthetic shape, so switching over at this point is not a good use of time and other resources.

However, the perpetual fettler in me is compelled by such urges...By contrast there is also comfort in the familiar and life can force us to adapt, which is ultimately a good thing and very empowering, provided one does not toss in the towel.

I have been left in charge of Seven Day Cyclist Touring Commuting Recreation Rides Tests | Seven Day Cyclist and am having to learn site maintenance and design. Layout was a crucial part of my Newspaper journalism studies and something I struggled with, back in the days of paper and spray-mount. Would certainly explain my anxiety, dare we say the odd mental block. "Come back to it" were the immortal words of sage-like wisdom imparted to me by an old carpenter.  In this instance, I was 17 and struggling to produce some nicely flowing copy in longhand.    

There have been some very stressful moments that teleported me straight back to the final year of my degree over three decades ago. However, in common with that era, there’s similar resolve and determination to overcome the barriers and hurdles. Riding helps with perspective in all facets of life, although particularly pouring over something in a stuck position. However, there is also a huge difference between a positive break and running away or otherwise putting things off.

I’d introduced a Genetic Neuron Accessory MountGENETIC NEURON ACCESSORY BAR | cycling-not-racing to Denise  but then discovered I hadn’t a "Goldilocks" shim that would achieve vice-like tenure with the auction site special camera mount and Neuron’s 22.2mm extension tube. Some lateral thought, a rummage through the scraps box unearthed  some scrap  Ergon Orthocell Handlebar Tape Ergon Orthocell Handlebar Tape | cycling-not-racing, which is 3mm thick, thus double as a shim, offer some damping, while protecting the Neuron’s finish. Got me thinking about Scott’s Drop In Bar from the late 1980s- I recall someone running a set on their winter bike, mounting lights on the lower sections. However. They appear to be 26.4 and there’s no way I’d be paying classic prices for them, either.

 Though not inflexible, the Orthocell’s density means its tricker to bind evenly-at least over 70mm, and I’ve needed to apply electrical tape to both ends. Not as neat as I envisaged but passable aesthetically and very functional. I had toyed with mounting the camera lower, but experimentation confirmed brake and gear cable runs precluded this. It would’ve also meant less control when dis/engaging the camera. Presented an opportunity to grease the mounting hardware using some of the Zefal Pro Grease Zefal Pro II Grease | cycling-not-racing, which seems very effective, durable and seriously good value. Superb for hubs, headsets and contact points-especially on working bikes. I’d opt for Peaty’s Speed Grease PEATY'S SPEED GREASE | cycling-not-racing on Hollowtech II axles, and I’d steer away from suspension components but as general use workshop staples go, the Zefal seems hard to beat.

Muc Off Dark Energy Chain Wax continues to impress with its friction busting and seemingly durable properties, which will hopefully extend chain and other component life into the bargain.  Traditionally, dry and wax formulas have been great for cleanliness, low friction and responsive shifting in dry and dusty conditions, but required regular reapplication, especially when things turned showery, let alone wet. 

This is changing and while the Dark Energy is relatively pricey compared with some other waxes, performance is reassuringly good and then of course, this could be recouped courtesy of lower maintenance. The lack of dirt, grime and contaminant should also mean you're replacing sensitive, not to mention expensive drivetrain components less frequently. 

Horses for Courses is a phrase that still holds sway in my world. Someone recently substituted a healthy 105 group set for RX100, which might seem a strange choice, but they felt it made the bike more practical as a regular driver. I recall some folks saying they "Wouldn't put RX100 on a pram" when it was released back in the 90s.  

However, the 7/8 speed group is less exotic, thus less immediately attractive to casual thieves when locking up in the street, on an errand and 7/8 speed chains tend to wear better. I've had 2,000 miles, maybe a little more from a KMC fed a middleweight wet lube, such as Weldtite's All Conditions Lube Weldtite All Weather Lube | cycling-not-racing By contrast, a typical ten-speed chain has been bin fodder come 1400miles, like-for-like.   

Ride, Tweak, Refine & Return to Wax

 

I concluded I’d the cable tension a little too tight, thus wasn’t getting the right amount of travel and ultimately power from Muffin’s TRP SLC calliper. An easy fix, just a matter of slackening the cable very slightly, then snugging down. Sometimes it pays to run a component in and then make a single adjustment-my experience with Magura Hydro stops, which I had fitted to a Kona Lava Dome some 27 years back. Impressive stopping prowess but tempered by stubborn setup.  

Early season generally means middleweight chain lubes, Weldtite All Weather Lube Weldtite All Weather Lube | cycling-not-racing being a particularly good, wallet friendly default in my experience. Sometimes, conditions permit something lighter and cleaner. I’ve had very mixed experiences with wax formulas in changeable conditions, some are more durable than others. Momum MIC Momum MIC Wax Lube | cycling-not-racingand Smoove TEST & REVIEW: SMOOVE UNIVERSAL CHAIN LUBE: SUMMER TEST have a definite edge in these contexts.

That established, I’ve been sent KMC Go. Now, given KMC’s immense experience manufacturing chains, I was very intrigued. Retailing at £ 17.50 for 150ml, its relatively pricey, so I’m expecting something rather good. KMC say it’s “Designed to significantly reduce friction, enhance shifting and providing optimum efficiency”. Look closely and you’ll notice a chain’s side plates decorate the seam.  

It promises to create a durable water repelling, friction reducing microfilm and supposedly more durable than oil-based products. While good practice to deep clean drivetrains before switching to different brands and genres, waxes are very particular, so aim for surgically clean rings, cassettes, derailleur jockey wheels and cages. This also presented the opportunity to scrutinise the Izumi track chain for wear and its Ok, but I’ll be replacing in the coming weeks.

If I’ve been running oil-based middleweights for any period, I may remove the crank, baste the inner ring in degreaser and leave it marinating for a little while, before introducing a suitably clean, stiff brush. There’s a solid argument for removing rings, chain and cassette and leaving them marinating in a parts washer-or indeed an ultrasonic cleaner, should means allow.  

Now, I’m a big fan of the chain cleaner brushes, particularly this Oxford Chain Brush Pro Oxford Chain Brush Pro | cycling-not-racing and Finish Line’s Grunge Brush Solo  Finish Line Grunge Brush Solo | cycling-not-racing . However, while I’ve found some passable bike-specific brushes for purging cassettes, I’ve yet to find one that excels, which has prompted me to go the heavy-duty dish scrubber route. While wandering the supermarket isles, I spotted this one and it looked suitably sturdy and the handle seems suitably ergonomic.

Ask someone about degreasers, or drivetrain cleaners and you’ll get a tsunami of differing opinions, some advocating high end premium formulas, others more industrial citrus blends and another group advocating washing up liquid (dish soap) as the only way forward, claiming that all bike-related products are a big con. Let’s explore this a little…The problem with washing up liquids is (a) they contain salt, which isn’t good for painted, plated, anodised, or lacquered surfaces, seals and rubberised parts. (b) Then of course, these are designed for organic fats, not petrochemicals, so while they might shift mud and similar gloop, they’re not optimal for petrochemical based chain lubes, greases etc.  

Fenwick’s FS1 concentrate is a good default, but I’ve had great results using Squirt Bike Cleaner Concentrate SQUIRT BIKE CLEANER CONCENTRATE | cycling-not-racing and for a long time, Green Oil’s Degreaser Gel GREEN OIL CLEAN CHAIN DEGREASER JELLY ruled the roost in my workshop. I used to have a litre supply. A workshop friendly 5 litre version is available for £145. I’m pondering my next formula, once this Dynamic Bio Drivetrain Detox is exhausted. For reference, it’s pretty economical-I’ve been using it regularly across the fleet since late spring 2025.   

Elsewhere, I’ve been sent this Lezyne KTV Drive Front. It’s a compact safety light in the classic sense of the word, producing a maximum of 200lumens. The sort that makes a good backup for extended summer playtimes on best bikes, or as backing singer to a higher power dynamo lamp. This one is a very practical black, but red, white and blue are the alternatives.

Talking of practical, it complies with IPX7 for weatherproofing, which is reassuringly good. This means it will withstand immersion in water for up to 30minutes-not that I’d be going bog snorkelling with it but stands more than a sporting chance in the worst most road, or indeed, gravel outings will throw at us. I’ve still some Lezyne lights going strong a decade or so down the line.  In terms of modes and outputs, there are five-two steady (70 and 15 lumens) and three flashing (200lumen day, 30 and 15 lumens). The KTV has been around for a good while, but there have been some rather impressive improvements in run time-a claimed 40 hours for flash 1 and flash 2.

 I’ll leave it here with Paul Brodie’s restoration and modification of a 1988 Rocky Mountain, since I like his channel and find his skill very relaxing.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pdBWFtQJiZ0&list=WL&index=3&t=81s