Fresh Freehubs & Imaginations Fired

 

As I’ve said before, a good shop is worth their weight in gold. Collecting Ursula’s XT wheels, Sean advised he’d replaced the freehubs, hub bearings-no sense doing otherwise, since you need to strip the hub down. Besides fresh bearings and grease are pennies. Sean also gave both wheels a very quick tweak, which was similarly welcome, although neither were wandering. Prevention is always cheaper and more convenient than cure.

It was also nice to have found and addressed the phantom tinkling, which I'd convinced myself, could only be the rear TRP Spyre. Both wheels were around 4 years old and had one set of bearings apiece. The freehubs would’ve done around 12,500 all-weather mixed terrain miles apiece, so didn’t owe me anything. I’d fitted a six-bolt Shimano Deore rotor to the Ryde/XT hoop shod with the Nutrak and having done so, noted that was only suitable for resin pads. Not a problem, since that's what the rear Spyre was presently running but a reminder not to go the sintered route next time.

I've had good experiences with EBC pads and Disco Disc Brake Pads, so will opt for these come replacement time. Not that cable operated pads tend not to wear particularly quickly, at least compared with hydraulics, but winter’s salty cocktail can still chomp through them with frightening efficiency. Keeping a couple of chains, cables and brake pads in stock is a good idea.  Meantime, having resolved the issues, I’ve dialled the pads a little closer for more bite-especially since I’ve been doing a lot more trailer tugging of late.

I’d also taken this opportunity to strip and lightly regrease Ursula’s Topeak Road Master Blaster Frame Fit pump Topeak Road Master Blaster Frame Pump | cycling-not-racing using the Juice Lubes Slick Juice Juice Lubes Slick Juice Low Friction Gre | cycling-not-racing. Now, frame fit pumps have fallen out of fashion and on some levels, I can see why, especially given the increased dominance of electric compressor types, including Muc-Off’s Air Mach Muc-Off Airmach Electric Inflator Pro | cycling-not-racing and Cyc Plus CycPlus AS2 Pro Max E.Pump | cycling-not-racing. Sure, these are my defaults for speedy road/trailside rescue, especially when the temperature’s tanking. However, for all their considerable charms, I like a decent backup.

While I can understand the minimalists aversion, in an emergency, I don’t want to be struggling. The Road Master Blaster is reckoned good for 160psi. I’ve no problems raising flaccid 700x25c to 110psi. The large fits super securely along Ursula’s top tube and though there’s some slight trade off when shouldering bikes (I just slip it in a pannier) for me, it’s a small price to pay. Having done sufficient miles with Specialized Crossroads EX as control, now was the time to explore the Nutrak Vee Swift Frenzy Gravel Mud Tubeless Ready Tyres prowess in soft, muddy soil.    

 

Traditionally I've run 1.9 sections through winter since they offer a little more speed, improved clearance around the frame's rear triangle and on older, rigid mountain bikes, the fork's unicrown. Ingrained stones and grit and gloopy trails would act as a very effective abrasive, blasting paintwork bare, rapidly resulting I superficial but unsightly corrosion. A moot point with broader, straight leg designs, including these Carbon Cycles  Carbon Cycles Exotic Fork | cycling-not-racing   

I also recognise this choice is influenced by the all-terrain bikes that swept in around 1986 and never released their grip on my imagination. Bikes that could go anywhere-escape the maddening crowd yet still hustle along metaled roads with conviction…Muddy Fox's Trailblazer, Bridgestone's MB-1 and of course, Specialized’s Rock Combo being three that occupy said hall of fame.  Rack and mudguard (fender) mounts, stable enough for long haul load lugging (should you desire).

Machines that some now suggest were the precursors to contemporary gravel bikes. Again, I can see why people make these comparisons. I prefer panniers and post mounted SQR type luggage to contemporary frame mounted bike packing types. Primarily since I can get a rack refinished cheaply and easily, when time comes-although in both instances, dressing the areas of the rack or frame in old inner tube will greatly reduce this likelihood.  “You don’t criticise my paint, I won’t criticise your arc” as a shipyard painter said to the welder.  

For gravel and winter riding generally, I’ve concluded a low maintenance, grippy bar wrap trumps the traditional, and still worthy corks.  Muffin’s Genetic Hi-Grip is still delivering the goods-rugged and easy to clean, although I’ve a suspicion the backing will separate from the top layer once it weathers. Demise’s Ergon Orthocell Ergon Orthocell Handlebar Tape | cycling-not-racing  is another hard-wearing example and was easily ported over to the Genetic Digest.  All these discussed don’t absorb moisture, hardwearing and low maintenance.  

Softer ground and winter’s general nastiness also lends itself to simplicity. Rigid forks give a more direct feel, require virtually no maintenance and save a few grams into the bargain.

Now, my love of Specialized’s Crossroads EX tyre is long established but now appears to be discontinued. Given the all-terrain and blended genres I’ve been referring to, I’m very intrigued by their Hardrock'R Wirebead All Terrain Tire. Filed under their “City Bike” category and available in 26x2.0, 27.5, 650Bx2.0 and 29x2.0.

It looks as if it could well be a contender. I’ve not encountered one in the flesh, let alone tried them, but they have sparked my imagination. The Hemisphere are another re-entry. I ran a set of 26x 1.95 for commuting across South London 25 yeas back and found that version dependable, albeit ponderous.

Freeing the Soul, Sorting the Brake

 

Some lovely kit arrived in the form of this BBB Karma MIPS helmet and Altura Airstream Jersey and bib shorts. The Karma is a nicely executed, particularly airy design using MIPS (Multi Directional Impact Protection System). This is the air node version that’s integral to the padding and supposedly the lightest iteration.

Twenty-five vents are impressive, but the raised crossbeams theoretically encourage air through the scalp. In practice, this would appear so in practice. I was pleased to note the polycarbonate shell extends around the rim, protecting the EPS liner from everyday carelessness. Though arguably a road design, I’ve found its made excellent transition to gravel duties and the shape is very accommodating of high-power lights, such as this Sigma Buster HL2000 SIGMA SPORT BUSTER HL 2000 | cycling-not-racing

A rogue red deer cantering from a hedge, into my path seemed keen to test the lid’s credentials but thankfully, my reaction times and bike handling skills kept everything in check. Altura’s Airstream are budget garments but definitely very cheerful. Both have been revised (for the better) since the set I tested back in 2021.

Pockets are deep, supportive and they’ve added a fourth, zippered model with a long, user-friendly tag. However, the left-handed will doubtless point out it doesn’t favour everyone.  Having exhausted the 50ml bottle of Muc-Off Dark Energy Chain Wax Muc-Off Dark Energy Chain Wax | cycling-not-racing , I’ve been taking to the trails and unmade byways to see how the Continental Terra Trail perform on hardpack and loose surfaces.

Speed, compliance and grip are impressive in these contexts and while the Genetic Digest are a touch broad for some gaps, this is tempered by their leverage and shallow drop. These provide excellent control when hunkered down and hossing along the singletrack. A good bet for trailer tugging and similar duties- yep, they’re staying. I dialled things that bit sharper by raising the stem a few millimetres. Some adjustments are genuinely intuitive and tend to strike mid, or post ride.

Denise’s rear stopper decided to turn erratic and mischievous. Not that I use a rear brake often, but if something’s fitted, then it needs to perform well. Having stopped to commune with this little Shetland during one forest trail frolic, I decided it was time to strip and clean the arms and replace inner and outer cables.

A simple job, but sometimes I’m my own worst enemy…Spares boxes open, I was contemplating all sorts- switching the cantilevers for some Tekro…Or some Dia Compe…Or Some Avid…Investigating this and other options saw time evaporate-precisely the opposite of what I’d intended.

After some faff and deliberation, I stripped and cleaned the brakes, bosses, applied some Peaty’s Speed Grease PEATY'S SPEED GREASE | cycling-not-racing , replaced the cables. Stripped out, both had seen better days and an obvious impairment to smooth braking.  Another bog-standard but very serviceable Clarks stainless inner, but Jagwire’s CGX SL outer. This features a high carbon coil steel, providing the strength required for braking, the carbon component limiting compression. This coupled with the lubricated liner ensures excellent modulation and feel, even commanded by Tektro’s cheerful RL340 lever.

I still treat outers and inners to a blast of maintenance spray, since opportunity presents. A precautionary drop of super glue on the freshly snipped inner seals the deal. My experience of bog standard cablesets, regardless of brand is they are serviceable enough and a very inexpensive way of restoring shifting and braking prowess- so long as they're replaced seasonally-especially on working bikes.

However, spending just a little more can reap better rewards in terms of weather resistance and performance. Pre-lubricated liners also keep things slick and largely eliminate the need for periodic flushing through with GT85 GT85 ALL PURPOSE LUBRICANT, Muc-Off MO94 Muc-Off MO94 Multi Use Spray | cycling-not-racing.

Inner wires seem less prone to stretch, cut nicely and tend not to fray so readily. That said don't skimp on decent quality cutters. I'm also quick to add that precautionary blob of superglue to the ends.  Less elegant than solder, or a crimp perhaps but effective.

You needn't spend a fortune either. Transfil Flying Snakes are c. £25, very durable and supposedly 30% lighter thanks to the Kevlar/composite outers. Forget cable cuffs, or helicopter tape at your paintwork's peril and installation requires more patience compared with other brands I've used. 

 I’m pleased to report the Ergon Orthocell Handlebar tape  Ergon Orthocell Handlebar Tape | cycling-not-racing  was still receptive to being re-wound and shows little signs of wear. Elsewhere, I’d been having a few issues with a Garmin pattern mount and the Gaciron Xiaoman 1000 light, so took a gamble on an auction site stem mount…

Despite some initial scepticism and tiny screws for the Garmin and GoPro patterns, I was pleasantly surprised by how easily it came together and crucially, how securely it holds the Gaciron Xiaoman and Coospo CS600 Coospo CS600 GPS | cycling-not-racing. Suffice to say, I’ve bought a second.

  

Reinvention, Regeneration & Reward

 

Genetic Neuron accessory mount in situ across both bikes, I've found a cheap but cheerful stem with 45- degree rise and wasted no time in slotting the Ridgeback Gravel drops in situ, followed by the Dia Compe EVO V levers. There's no getting away from the fact I knew this idea would gather momentum- I could see my mind's mechanisms turning and doubtless you could too. However, it will stay in this state of limbo for now- the existing setup is perfectly functional and in good aesthetic shape, so switching over at this point is not a good use of time and other resources.

However, the perpetual fettler in me is compelled by such urges...By contrast there is also comfort in the familiar and life can force us to adapt, which is ultimately a good thing and very empowering, provided one does not toss in the towel.

I have been left in charge of Seven Day Cyclist Touring Commuting Recreation Rides Tests | Seven Day Cyclist and am having to learn site maintenance and design. Layout was a crucial part of my Newspaper journalism studies and something I struggled with, back in the days of paper and spray-mount. Would certainly explain my anxiety, dare we say the odd mental block. "Come back to it" were the immortal words of sage-like wisdom imparted to me by an old carpenter.  In this instance, I was 17 and struggling to produce some nicely flowing copy in longhand.    

There have been some very stressful moments that teleported me straight back to the final year of my degree over three decades ago. However, in common with that era, there’s similar resolve and determination to overcome the barriers and hurdles. Riding helps with perspective in all facets of life, although particularly pouring over something in a stuck position. However, there is also a huge difference between a positive break and running away or otherwise putting things off.

I’d introduced a Genetic Neuron Accessory MountGENETIC NEURON ACCESSORY BAR | cycling-not-racing to Denise  but then discovered I hadn’t a "Goldilocks" shim that would achieve vice-like tenure with the auction site special camera mount and Neuron’s 22.2mm extension tube. Some lateral thought, a rummage through the scraps box unearthed  some scrap  Ergon Orthocell Handlebar Tape Ergon Orthocell Handlebar Tape | cycling-not-racing, which is 3mm thick, thus double as a shim, offer some damping, while protecting the Neuron’s finish. Got me thinking about Scott’s Drop In Bar from the late 1980s- I recall someone running a set on their winter bike, mounting lights on the lower sections. However. They appear to be 26.4 and there’s no way I’d be paying classic prices for them, either.

 Though not inflexible, the Orthocell’s density means its tricker to bind evenly-at least over 70mm, and I’ve needed to apply electrical tape to both ends. Not as neat as I envisaged but passable aesthetically and very functional. I had toyed with mounting the camera lower, but experimentation confirmed brake and gear cable runs precluded this. It would’ve also meant less control when dis/engaging the camera. Presented an opportunity to grease the mounting hardware using some of the Zefal Pro Grease Zefal Pro II Grease | cycling-not-racing, which seems very effective, durable and seriously good value. Superb for hubs, headsets and contact points-especially on working bikes. I’d opt for Peaty’s Speed Grease PEATY'S SPEED GREASE | cycling-not-racing on Hollowtech II axles, and I’d steer away from suspension components but as general use workshop staples go, the Zefal seems hard to beat.

Muc Off Dark Energy Chain Wax continues to impress with its friction busting and seemingly durable properties, which will hopefully extend chain and other component life into the bargain.  Traditionally, dry and wax formulas have been great for cleanliness, low friction and responsive shifting in dry and dusty conditions, but required regular reapplication, especially when things turned showery, let alone wet. 

This is changing and while the Dark Energy is relatively pricey compared with some other waxes, performance is reassuringly good and then of course, this could be recouped courtesy of lower maintenance. The lack of dirt, grime and contaminant should also mean you're replacing sensitive, not to mention expensive drivetrain components less frequently. 

Horses for Courses is a phrase that still holds sway in my world. Someone recently substituted a healthy 105 group set for RX100, which might seem a strange choice, but they felt it made the bike more practical as a regular driver. I recall some folks saying they "Wouldn't put RX100 on a pram" when it was released back in the 90s.  

However, the 7/8 speed group is less exotic, thus less immediately attractive to casual thieves when locking up in the street, on an errand and 7/8 speed chains tend to wear better. I've had 2,000 miles, maybe a little more from a KMC fed a middleweight wet lube, such as Weldtite's All Conditions Lube Weldtite All Weather Lube | cycling-not-racing By contrast, a typical ten-speed chain has been bin fodder come 1400miles, like-for-like.