Fresh Freehubs & Imaginations Fired

 

As I’ve said before, a good shop is worth their weight in gold. Collecting Ursula’s XT wheels, Sean advised he’d replaced the freehubs, hub bearings-no sense doing otherwise, since you need to strip the hub down. Besides fresh bearings and grease are pennies. Sean also gave both wheels a very quick tweak, which was similarly welcome, although neither were wandering. Prevention is always cheaper and more convenient than cure.

It was also nice to have found and addressed the phantom tinkling, which I'd convinced myself, could only be the rear TRP Spyre. Both wheels were around 4 years old and had one set of bearings apiece. The freehubs would’ve done around 12,500 all-weather mixed terrain miles apiece, so didn’t owe me anything. I’d fitted a six-bolt Shimano Deore rotor to the Ryde/XT hoop shod with the Nutrak and having done so, noted that was only suitable for resin pads. Not a problem, since that's what the rear Spyre was presently running but a reminder not to go the sintered route next time.

I've had good experiences with EBC pads and Disco Disc Brake Pads, so will opt for these come replacement time. Not that cable operated pads tend not to wear particularly quickly, at least compared with hydraulics, but winter’s salty cocktail can still chomp through them with frightening efficiency. Keeping a couple of chains, cables and brake pads in stock is a good idea.  Meantime, having resolved the issues, I’ve dialled the pads a little closer for more bite-especially since I’ve been doing a lot more trailer tugging of late.

I’d also taken this opportunity to strip and lightly regrease Ursula’s Topeak Road Master Blaster Frame Fit pump Topeak Road Master Blaster Frame Pump | cycling-not-racing using the Juice Lubes Slick Juice Juice Lubes Slick Juice Low Friction Gre | cycling-not-racing. Now, frame fit pumps have fallen out of fashion and on some levels, I can see why, especially given the increased dominance of electric compressor types, including Muc-Off’s Air Mach Muc-Off Airmach Electric Inflator Pro | cycling-not-racing and Cyc Plus CycPlus AS2 Pro Max E.Pump | cycling-not-racing. Sure, these are my defaults for speedy road/trailside rescue, especially when the temperature’s tanking. However, for all their considerable charms, I like a decent backup.

While I can understand the minimalists aversion, in an emergency, I don’t want to be struggling. The Road Master Blaster is reckoned good for 160psi. I’ve no problems raising flaccid 700x25c to 110psi. The large fits super securely along Ursula’s top tube and though there’s some slight trade off when shouldering bikes (I just slip it in a pannier) for me, it’s a small price to pay. Having done sufficient miles with Specialized Crossroads EX as control, now was the time to explore the Nutrak Vee Swift Frenzy Gravel Mud Tubeless Ready Tyres prowess in soft, muddy soil.    

 

Traditionally I've run 1.9 sections through winter since they offer a little more speed, improved clearance around the frame's rear triangle and on older, rigid mountain bikes, the fork's unicrown. Ingrained stones and grit and gloopy trails would act as a very effective abrasive, blasting paintwork bare, rapidly resulting I superficial but unsightly corrosion. A moot point with broader, straight leg designs, including these Carbon Cycles  Carbon Cycles Exotic Fork | cycling-not-racing   

I also recognise this choice is influenced by the all-terrain bikes that swept in around 1986 and never released their grip on my imagination. Bikes that could go anywhere-escape the maddening crowd yet still hustle along metaled roads with conviction…Muddy Fox's Trailblazer, Bridgestone's MB-1 and of course, Specialized’s Rock Combo being three that occupy said hall of fame.  Rack and mudguard (fender) mounts, stable enough for long haul load lugging (should you desire).

Machines that some now suggest were the precursors to contemporary gravel bikes. Again, I can see why people make these comparisons. I prefer panniers and post mounted SQR type luggage to contemporary frame mounted bike packing types. Primarily since I can get a rack refinished cheaply and easily, when time comes-although in both instances, dressing the areas of the rack or frame in old inner tube will greatly reduce this likelihood.  “You don’t criticise my paint, I won’t criticise your arc” as a shipyard painter said to the welder.  

For gravel and winter riding generally, I’ve concluded a low maintenance, grippy bar wrap trumps the traditional, and still worthy corks.  Muffin’s Genetic Hi-Grip is still delivering the goods-rugged and easy to clean, although I’ve a suspicion the backing will separate from the top layer once it weathers. Demise’s Ergon Orthocell Ergon Orthocell Handlebar Tape | cycling-not-racing  is another hard-wearing example and was easily ported over to the Genetic Digest.  All these discussed don’t absorb moisture, hardwearing and low maintenance.  

Softer ground and winter’s general nastiness also lends itself to simplicity. Rigid forks give a more direct feel, require virtually no maintenance and save a few grams into the bargain.

Now, my love of Specialized’s Crossroads EX tyre is long established but now appears to be discontinued. Given the all-terrain and blended genres I’ve been referring to, I’m very intrigued by their Hardrock'R Wirebead All Terrain Tire. Filed under their “City Bike” category and available in 26x2.0, 27.5, 650Bx2.0 and 29x2.0.

It looks as if it could well be a contender. I’ve not encountered one in the flesh, let alone tried them, but they have sparked my imagination. The Hemisphere are another re-entry. I ran a set of 26x 1.95 for commuting across South London 25 yeas back and found that version dependable, albeit ponderous.

Shims & Other Satisfying Solutions

Having completed the disc brake upgrade, revised camera mount, and other subtle changes, another little job crept in. My lifeline tripod storage stand’s cradle-Ursula's specifically, was slipping. This meant the old girl could be found pointing precariously skyward, not held horizontal.   

Ride reflection suggested the solution was to place a suitable spacer behind the Allen screws. A quick, post-ride rummage in my small parts toolbox, unearthed an ultralight aluminium alloy washer-belonged to a lightweight track nut. Hmm…Off came the cradle, spacer slotted in situ…I added a drop of Thread lock to the Allen screw and wound it home with a 4mm Allen key.  

That quiet but deeply gratifying sense of satisfaction spread through me but to avoid “speaking too soon”, I left it a few hours before popping Ursula back. Success! Result! (Insert alternative expression of joy).  

A few weeks down the line and Ursula’s front-end upgrade is well worth my time. Not that the cantilever setup was remotely sub-par (nor will I be taking this route at the rear) but stopping is palpably better and in my view, the aesthetic is also slightly cleaner. Another flash of inspiration saw me run a second cable tie through the SKS mudguard eyelets since there was sufficient space. Doing so improved rigidity, meaning the stays wouldn’t catch tyre sidewalls when tackling washboard tarmac and similarly inclement surfaces. Pleased to report theory and practice meet.   

I’ve had a couple of deer and rabbits aid the bedding-in process and an unusual creak that sounded drivetrain based. A bit of honking confirmed it was the Kinket 2.1 Suspension Seat post KINEKT 2.1 SUSPENSION SEAT POST | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com)  

A quick blast of Muc-Off Silicone Spray MUC OFF SILICON SHINE POLISH | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) restored order. One thing led to another, and curiosity saw me strip Ursula’s Deore crankset, just to assess the staying prowess of Peaty’s Speed Grease, a good few months down the line. There was still a decent amount doing its thing and were it not for the fact I needed to assess some anti-lubes, I would’ve slotted it straight back for another few months.  

Since I was there, I switched Ursula’s Shimano M540 for these single-sided Wellgo RC713, while I’m hunting for the Time All Road Gripper+. So much for leaving things be! Incidentally, the Wellgo has shaved a whopping 47g from the build. 

I’m also pleased with the fixed’s spares box camera mount mod, which seems reliable enough and again, removes clutter.  Talking of bars, here’s my review of the Ciclovation Grind Touch Handlebar Tape CICLOVATION GRIND TOUCH BAR TAPE | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com)   

Then, the good folks at Moto Verde and Extra UK sent me some goodies. Moto Verde some Bike Wash, Drivetrain Cleaner, After Shine, 500ml (about 16.91 oz (about 500.09 ml)) Waterless Wax, and this 125ml PTFE Chain Lube. Extra UK graciously sent me some Swiss Stop rotors to play with. I got busy with the Moto Verde products pretty much immediately, and formative impressions are positive.  

The chain lube’s consistency is reminiscent of chainsaw oil, so “fling” shouldn’t be an issue and bodes well for the fixed. Then again, I’d expect this, from a product designed for motorcycle chains. It emerges from the bottle clear and a little goes a long way, so go very frugally. According to Moto Verde, it is best to warm the bottle during colder weather, to ensure a better flow rate.  

Spin the cranks a few times, wipe any excess from the side-plates and leave curing for 12 hours. Once cured, it assumes a state I wasn’t expecting. Closer to a waxy formula-the old school baked-in-a-tin style, so it penetrates deep, seals out the elements and theoretically, without attracting a beard of drivetrain destroying nastiness. 

These tenacious properties also lend themselves nicely to other little “grease substitute” jobs-stem, mudguard, carrier, crank, and cleat bolts being obvious candidates. Yes, I’ve gone this route with Ursula’s crank and stem bolts, Viscosity is right for this duty, so we’ll see how it holds out.  Talking of Ursula, here’s the pandemic from her perspective.. Ursula: The Never-Ending Story | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) 

 

Mischievous Mounts & Sunday worship

 Some of you may have popped by looking for something X rated, sorry to disappoint. For those of you still reading, I am referring to Ursula’s first shakedown ride. Out at 5am, I was initially cruising along with complete and serene silence. This was swiftly and rudely interrupted by a bouncing mudguard (fender) stay and then a binding disc. Slightly dejected, I whizzed the two miles home, popped Ursula away, and headed out on my fixed gear winter trainer to contemplate the root causes.  

A brisk and cold ride certainly helped and reminded me why gilets, such as this Oxford Venture OXFORD VENTURE WINDPROOF GILET | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) and other cool-weather kit is necessary during the early season. Conditions where it may be bright but can be deceptively cold, especially if you need to stop for any reason.  

I returned with blood and thoughts flowing. Fixed popped away, I put Ursula on the work stand and began troubleshooting/diagnostics. Having disconnected the cable and got back to basics, I concluded the issue lay with the mount. This was confirmed when I found the TRP’s escapee mount. I say escapee since it had crept beneath the box folds.  

Mounts switched; caliper alignment was immediately looking sharper. I reinstated the cable, drew the lever to the bars while snugging the calipers’ Allen bolts down-belching freely to release tension...Spinning the wheel confirmed sufficient clearance at the pads and between spokes and caliper.  

Repeating this several times confirmed all was well. Home straight then...I was bitterly cold by this point, mucus streaming from my nose, chill nipping at my digits but still very much in the zone.  

I drew the inner wire tighter and snugged it down. Lever pumped several times, wheel spun-repeat three times listening tentatively for anything binding. Repeat once again, to appease invasive thoughts. Neurosis vanquished I reunited mudguard and fork leg with another beefy black cable tie.  

A gentle, calming wave of satisfaction crept over me, inducing quiet song. Time to pack up and hit the shower-a nice warm one. Thawed, cleaned, dressed and caffeinated I ten decided the fixed’s redundant Apeman APEMAN A80 ACTION CAMERA | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) housing needed to go. I had been tempted to get another Minoura mount but since the blue CNC machined bracket was perfectly good and there were some mounts bouncing around the electricals box, I used these.  

Much neater. I can either run the old but loveable Geonaute or the weather-sealed Campark. Action cameras tend to be quite poor in low light but now the dawns are sooner, this allows me to capture footage of red deer cantering across fields and similar incidentals.   

 

Next, I decided to install a centre lock disc to the Alfine hub dynamo Shimano Alfine UR700 Hub Dynamo | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com)-all was going well until I discovered the supplied lockring was a different pattern to that I’m used to (and have a tool for).  

Another dive into my small parts tray-bingo, older pattern retrieved, and everything snugged down to 40nm. I also found a quick release skewer while I was there, so added a lick of grease to that before slipping it in situ.   

I’ve yet to run the Alfine and new disc, staying with the Shutter Precision and bedding that rotor in, for the time being. Technically I’ve already done it, but I’ll give it a little while longer for now. 50 miles in, I had to pull the TRP cable through a little but otherwise, I’m happy with the modulation, feel, and lever travel.