Seizing The Day

 

I’ve been tempted to replace Muffin’s front Mud Hugger Gravel Guard for something a little wider, having experienced some clearance issues with the 42mm Maxxis Roamer. For the time being, I’ve switched back to the 38mm Vittoria Adventure Tech and am enjoying a freshly repacked headset and the serenely slick cleanliness of the All-Mountain Style Miami Glide Wax Chain Lube

The economies of scale don't always work in our favour, but they make a lot of sense when its stuff we're frequently using. Bike washes divide opinion and generally speaking, I default to good quality wash n' wax formulas- 5 litres or thereabouts, since I also wash cars and other vehicles and £17 will last me at least a year, even though filthy winters.  However, dedicated bike washes can cut through the grime more effectively-especially impacted stuff.

A typical litre, readymade potion will cost £10, whereas a 5-litre concentrate will cost around £25 make at least ten litres. Price is not the only factor to consider. Some formulas, especially at the cheaper end of the market are not necessarily kind to disc brakes and other sensitive components. Other potential issues involve streaking and similar blemishes in paintwork and corrosion/oxidisation on aluminium alloys.

The shorter the standing times, the more aggressive the formula likely is and this can cause deterioration longer term. Especially when rinsed with warm water. During winter, where roads are typically gritted, rinse bikes with cold water FIRST, going straight for the warm sudsy bucket will simply accelerate the corrosive process.  

I've used and tested a wealth of different formulas over the years, and most have been competent. Some have left particularly positive impressions. 

Motoverde (previously Green Clean MX PRO GREEN MX TRIPLE PACK REVIEW) Bike Wash is one that can be left for 15 minutes or so, which really allows it to east into stubborn grime. A lot of people like a highly visual formulas (this also applies to other cleaning products-shampoos and conditioners) on the belief they are more effective.

In practice, a formula that clings to the host will breakdown grease, oils, mud and similar contaminant more effectively, resulting in deeper clean and using less product into the bargain. Reading the manufacturer's directions should be a given (but a lot of people don't).  Some, including the Motoverde are designed to work when the host surface is wet, which may be perceived as another stage and a faff.

However, it can ultimately save time and achieve better results.  It's also important to remember that bike washes are not degreasers, although in concentrate form, they can be very effective at stripping impacted oily gunk from cassettes, rings and similar metal surfaces. Squirt Bike Cleaner Concentrate SQUIRT BIKE CLEANER CONCENTRATE | cycling-not-racing and Weldtite Bike Cleaner Concentrate Weldtite Bike Cleaner Concentrate | cycling-not-racing being two that spring to mind.

One thing invariably prompts something else and, in this instance, replacing Ursula's cassette led to me discovering a sticky, well borderline seized TRP Spyre SLC calliper. I've not had any issues with Muffin’s, although Muffin is tarmac based, whereas Ursula does a fair bit of mileage off road, hence the calliper gets basted with more crap. 

I've not had too many issues per se, although I've heard the design is vulnerable to this and internal corrosion- piston and bearings. It is possible to strip the calliper, although TRP discourages this, so at your own risk.

Given the callipers are relatively cheap, not the end of the world. However, if I was going to buy a replacement, I'd nothing to lose by blasting the calliper through with a high strength solvent to purge anything gunky, followed by a GT85 GT85 ALL PURPOSE LUBRICANT "chaser". I’d been out for a ride, returned and took a different route.

Having removed the calliper, I gave it a liberal blast of Motoverde Drivetrain Cleaner Motoverde Drivetrain Cleaner | cycling-not-racing allowed that to marinate for a few minutes, pumping the mechanism to ensure full penetration. Engaging the calliper by hand accelerated this, a sludgy brown film seeping out as the mechanism freed. Rinsed with clean water, I dried thoroughly and applied Muc-Off MO94 Muc-Off MO94 Multi Use Spray | cycling-not-racing, taking particular care to avoid contaminating the pads.

This prompted a wholesale tear down. I needed to replace the brake cable, so took this as my cue to switch the bars and stem, repack the FSA aheadset with fresh Juice Lubes Bearing Juice Waterproof Grease The Juice Lubes Bearing Juice Long Term | cycling-not-racing  An orgy of fettling and script changes followed but sometimes the most time-effective decision is to strip and start again.  

I’ll close here with my review of the Gaciron XIAOMAN 1000 Multifunctional All-in-One Professional Outdoor Front light The Gaciron XIAOMAN-1000 | cycling-not-racing

  

On The Radar

 

I wasn’t expecting to get so engrossed in radar-based technology. I’m specifically referring to systems such as the Coospo TR70 and BBB Signal Radar. Lights are to some extent evolving like mobile (cell) phones did i.e. from telephones through to the complex computers in our pockets. For the uninitiated, radar technology in bike lights is designed to pinpoint approaching vehicles from a safe distance and typically communicate this via smartphone app.

The apps typically allow you to select lighting modes and other functions. These are not intended to replace wider awareness-regular over-the-shoulder glances, but to increase safety, say in contexts, such as a very windy descent where we’re battling the elements and can’t hear approaching traffic. The technology has obvious benefits to folks towing trailers, tagalongs behind their solos and indeed tandems.

I was curious as to how far light/radar could be positioned before reliable, seamless Bluetooth/ANT+ communication was affected. Coospo tell me the TR70 is good for ten metres, which should cater for most applications and contexts.  The BBB signal can also be run sans app, courtesy of an integrated speaker, which is a nice touch.

Run times in both units are reassuringly long, thanks to the sensible selection of modes and varied outputs. Up to a claimed 40 hours with the TR70 and 14 with BBB’s Signal (both in radar only mode, which means the light is only triggered when the radar senses a vehicle approaching. 140 metres seems the benchmark, although the Signal is claimed to detect from 190 metres.  

Thus far, I am forming the conclusion that radar systems are most effective and accurate along country lanes, A roads and bigger roundabouts. The density of town and city centre traffic (parked and mobile) tends to instigate false readings from parked cars and sometimes steel structures and fencing.  

Having confirmed good, user-friendly compatibility with an Android handset, I was curious as to their relationship with a contemporary computer. The sort with internet connectivity. The sort that I’ve traditionally shunned. Coospo kindly sent me their Real Road CS600 GPS Computer, which has impressive features and generous run to charge ratios. I’m at the exploratory phase, so will reserve further comment until I’ve done a good handful of rides and some proper miles.

Talking of miles, after a really filthy ride, I took it as my cue to (a) clean Muffin (b) replace the Izumi chain, which I’d noted was showing some signs of wear. There was a fair bit of congealed go around the sprocket and ring, so these were given a good blast of Drivetrain Detox and a moderate scrubbing first.

Chains are relatively inexpensive, so best replaced before they consume rings and sprockets, which can work out pricey, even on a fixed. I’m still contemplating switching to a stainless ring before next winter comes around. A KMC Z510HX (as shown here on the Holdsworth) being the choice this time round. It features a decent silver finish, “anti drop technology” and mushroom pins promising greater strength.

Not the lightest, but reliability trumps that by some margin.  I’ve found them strong, inexpensive and relatively refined 1500miles seems the going rate for a mid- range track chain. 3,000 miles is the most I’ve ever returned, and that was using a KMC Z1X Inox  SEVEN DAY CYCLIST'S 3000 MILE TEST OF A KMC INOX CHAIN  but it’s a good deal dearer these days, so I’ll stick with the Z510HX.

I took this opportunity to strip and apply some KMC Go wax to the Z510HX and X10 chains, which has also consumed the last remnants of Dynamic Bio Drivetrain Detox, which had lasted considerably longer than I was expecting. I’d spotted two litre bottles of Motoverde Drivetrain Cleaner PRO GREEN MX TRIPLE PACK REVIEW for a very keen price, so indulged.

I’ve found it very effective, although in keeping with the Dynamic Bio Drivetrain Detox it likes several minutes soaking time to make inroads into the lube and contaminant before you get busy with the stiff-bristled brush. There are cheaper formulas around on well-known auction sites. However, they can be somewhat caustic- not what you want on pretty paintwork, seals and other small but significant components.

As for the KMC Go, well, it’s living up to expectations. In common with other waxes, it’s quite runny, requires a surgically clean host drivetrain and several hours (ideally overnight) curing. However, it seems to be holding up convincingly in some very changeable (read wet) conditions, drivetrains are reassuringly clean, silent and shifts silent. The other nice feature is that you can just top up. No need to strip and reapply.   

Elsewhere, I’ve been impressed by the Topeak RX Beam Rack and RX Trunk Bag DXP Topeak RX Trunk Bag DXP and RX Beam Rack | cycling-not-racing. A good option if you weren’t keen on three-, or four-point racks for day rides and weren’t carrying bigger loads. There are better choices, including Carradice’s SQR range-including their Carradry  CARRADICE CARRADRY SQR BAG | cycling-not-racing if you wanted to haul heavier payloads. Though I’ve brought the fleet over to racks, I remain very fond of the SQR system and range of bags. Because they place the centre of gravity higher, handling can take a little time adjusting to, coming from panniers and trunk bags. With conditions turning more spring-like, timely that I’ve reached my conclusions regarding the Castelli Unlimited Bib Tights Castelli Unlimited Bib Tights | cycling-not-racing

 

Missing Links & Magic Numbers

Though I’d never say “I can’t do maths” it isn’t my strong suit either and my experience of the school curriculum certainly didn’t help. Anyhow, last week’s quick chain checker intuition revealed Ursula’s was past .7, so time for switching. Out came the 106 link KMC and I was delighted my educated “guestimate” proved exacting.  

Straight up and down the block without undue pull on the short arm Tiagra mech, no sag when dropped on the 22 ring. Confirmed on the following mixed terrain meanders. The work stand is a good gauge, but the real world can throw curved balls.  

I also took this opportunity to replace Ursula’s rear staddle wire- a precaution but cable failures can be nasty- easily and cheaply avoided. Up front, I’ll stick with the TRP Spyre SLC caliper's Shimano pads- get my money’s worth in the wet, gritty conditions, then switch to the Disco Brakes’ semi-metallic Disco Disc Brake Pads and Wavey Rotors | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) .  

Cleats are another small but easily neglected staple. I had a quick check of mine and decided I’d switch to some eXotic Cycles Shimano Compatible SPD Cleats. I’ve long admitted to having a “thing” for pattern products, which started with pedals and has spread to other components, sometimes accessories, too.   

Exhausted KMC binned, I promptly ordered two pre-cut 106 KMC from the supplier, while opportunity and keen pricing presented. A few spare magic links also come in handy- two on the bike, two at home. In practice, two would do and aside from cleaning, lubricating, and replacing chains, I’ve concluded 10 and 11 speeds are best cut once and left alone.

  

This proved an ideal opportunity to inspect the Topeak Hide n’ Tool for signs of corrosion. I was expecting a faint orange taint, but a combination of hardy electroplating and the expander wedge system keeps the grot at bay. Waterlogged lanes and greasy roads were plentiful, so reassuring. I had however managed to “lose” the Hide n’ Tool’s chain spreader but this was reclaimed when tipping Ursula to the side.  

Note to self, add a lick of middleweight (blue) thread lock to subvert this. Talking Topeak, mounted low on Ursula’s seat stay, the Redlite Aero USB Rear Light 30cd is also impressing with its blend of long run times, output, and weatherproofing. Meeting IPX4, I’ve not willfully immersed it (that should be a given) though the odd, unavoidable douching from calve high water hasn’t raised any concerns.  

Waterproof socks have meant the Shimano RX6 Shimano SH RX600 Gravel Cycling Shoes | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) have remained practical and moreover, comfortable. I’ve been pairing the Castelli Perfetto RDS Gloves with some faithful and long serving Gore Tex over-mitts (although the latter’s grippy palms chose this ride to disintegrate).  Then of course, water resistant caps are another welcome addition- ideally a breathable model.  Showers Pass Elite SHOWERS PASS ELITE CYCLING CAP | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) being a firm favourite of mine- great wind and rain cheating peak too, so great beneath a road-biased lid.   

The Perfetto RDS seem to hold back light to moderate rain for around an hour- if it's looking rougher, or I’m out for longer, then I’ll reach for the over-mitts.  In terms of socks, I’m disappointed Muc Off decided to phase theirs out-arguably the best fit with sportier shoes and boots.  

That said; I’ve had good experiences with  DexShell Pro Visibility Cycling Socks DEXSHELL PRO VISIBILTY CYCLING SOCKS | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) and The Gecko Wear Ankle Length Waterproof Cycling Socks Classic GECKO ANKLE LENGTH WATERPROOF SOCKS | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) 

Coinciding with chain replacement and Storm Babet’s rude arrival, I’ve reached for the  Weldtite Bike Cleaner concentrate and Zefal Extra Wet Nano Ceramic Chain Lube  ZEFAL EXTRA WET NANO CERAMIC CHAIN LUBE | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) to avoid wash off, although I’ll admit to not being overly keen on PTFE as an additive. It’s not the kindest to the planet, aquatic life, and people alike... I also gave the old girl a quick wash, since I was there and finished with a quick post-wash silicone protectant. I was short on time and this Motoverde blend is designed to be applied on damp surfaces.  

Torrential rains have also seen me considering switching to the Carradice Carradry SQR bag CARRADICE CARRADRY SQR BAG | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com)- especially since I’ve ditched the full-length chrome plastics. It also means I can post cards, letters etc mid ride without fear of them getting soggy.  I also have the Carradice SQR Super C Tour, bought in November 2001 and save for some characterful, “lived in” patina, going strong 22 years hence.  

Both have an impressive 10-kilo payload but in extreme conditions, the Carradry’s welded seams and zippered side pockets have a definite edge. Lining the SQR Tour with a dry sac (bin bag, in a pinch) largely eliminates incremental creep but the side pockets’ design means small items can escape, given the right circumstances- think packets of spare links/fasteners, the odd slender composite tyre lever etc.  Oh, and while I love the SQR system, it's one for metal posts only- no issues with suspension models, including the Kinekt 2.1, or indeed, Cane Creek Thudbuster.  Right, I'll close with another lighting link. Steve's review of the Exposure Race Mk17 2600lumens Front Light Exposure Race Mk17 2600 Light | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com)