Fresh Freehubs & Imaginations Fired

 

As I’ve said before, a good shop is worth their weight in gold. Collecting Ursula’s XT wheels, Sean advised he’d replaced the freehubs, hub bearings-no sense doing otherwise, since you need to strip the hub down. Besides fresh bearings and grease are pennies. Sean also gave both wheels a very quick tweak, which was similarly welcome, although neither were wandering. Prevention is always cheaper and more convenient than cure.

It was also nice to have found and addressed the phantom tinkling, which I'd convinced myself, could only be the rear TRP Spyre. Both wheels were around 4 years old and had one set of bearings apiece. The freehubs would’ve done around 12,500 all-weather mixed terrain miles apiece, so didn’t owe me anything. I’d fitted a six-bolt Shimano Deore rotor to the Ryde/XT hoop shod with the Nutrak and having done so, noted that was only suitable for resin pads. Not a problem, since that's what the rear Spyre was presently running but a reminder not to go the sintered route next time.

I've had good experiences with EBC pads and Disco Disc Brake Pads, so will opt for these come replacement time. Not that cable operated pads tend not to wear particularly quickly, at least compared with hydraulics, but winter’s salty cocktail can still chomp through them with frightening efficiency. Keeping a couple of chains, cables and brake pads in stock is a good idea.  Meantime, having resolved the issues, I’ve dialled the pads a little closer for more bite-especially since I’ve been doing a lot more trailer tugging of late.

I’d also taken this opportunity to strip and lightly regrease Ursula’s Topeak Road Master Blaster Frame Fit pump Topeak Road Master Blaster Frame Pump | cycling-not-racing using the Juice Lubes Slick Juice Juice Lubes Slick Juice Low Friction Gre | cycling-not-racing. Now, frame fit pumps have fallen out of fashion and on some levels, I can see why, especially given the increased dominance of electric compressor types, including Muc-Off’s Air Mach Muc-Off Airmach Electric Inflator Pro | cycling-not-racing and Cyc Plus CycPlus AS2 Pro Max E.Pump | cycling-not-racing. Sure, these are my defaults for speedy road/trailside rescue, especially when the temperature’s tanking. However, for all their considerable charms, I like a decent backup.

While I can understand the minimalists aversion, in an emergency, I don’t want to be struggling. The Road Master Blaster is reckoned good for 160psi. I’ve no problems raising flaccid 700x25c to 110psi. The large fits super securely along Ursula’s top tube and though there’s some slight trade off when shouldering bikes (I just slip it in a pannier) for me, it’s a small price to pay. Having done sufficient miles with Specialized Crossroads EX as control, now was the time to explore the Nutrak Vee Swift Frenzy Gravel Mud Tubeless Ready Tyres prowess in soft, muddy soil.    

 

Traditionally I've run 1.9 sections through winter since they offer a little more speed, improved clearance around the frame's rear triangle and on older, rigid mountain bikes, the fork's unicrown. Ingrained stones and grit and gloopy trails would act as a very effective abrasive, blasting paintwork bare, rapidly resulting I superficial but unsightly corrosion. A moot point with broader, straight leg designs, including these Carbon Cycles  Carbon Cycles Exotic Fork | cycling-not-racing   

I also recognise this choice is influenced by the all-terrain bikes that swept in around 1986 and never released their grip on my imagination. Bikes that could go anywhere-escape the maddening crowd yet still hustle along metaled roads with conviction…Muddy Fox's Trailblazer, Bridgestone's MB-1 and of course, Specialized’s Rock Combo being three that occupy said hall of fame.  Rack and mudguard (fender) mounts, stable enough for long haul load lugging (should you desire).

Machines that some now suggest were the precursors to contemporary gravel bikes. Again, I can see why people make these comparisons. I prefer panniers and post mounted SQR type luggage to contemporary frame mounted bike packing types. Primarily since I can get a rack refinished cheaply and easily, when time comes-although in both instances, dressing the areas of the rack or frame in old inner tube will greatly reduce this likelihood.  “You don’t criticise my paint, I won’t criticise your arc” as a shipyard painter said to the welder.  

For gravel and winter riding generally, I’ve concluded a low maintenance, grippy bar wrap trumps the traditional, and still worthy corks.  Muffin’s Genetic Hi-Grip is still delivering the goods-rugged and easy to clean, although I’ve a suspicion the backing will separate from the top layer once it weathers. Demise’s Ergon Orthocell Ergon Orthocell Handlebar Tape | cycling-not-racing  is another hard-wearing example and was easily ported over to the Genetic Digest.  All these discussed don’t absorb moisture, hardwearing and low maintenance.  

Softer ground and winter’s general nastiness also lends itself to simplicity. Rigid forks give a more direct feel, require virtually no maintenance and save a few grams into the bargain.

Now, my love of Specialized’s Crossroads EX tyre is long established but now appears to be discontinued. Given the all-terrain and blended genres I’ve been referring to, I’m very intrigued by their Hardrock'R Wirebead All Terrain Tire. Filed under their “City Bike” category and available in 26x2.0, 27.5, 650Bx2.0 and 29x2.0.

It looks as if it could well be a contender. I’ve not encountered one in the flesh, let alone tried them, but they have sparked my imagination. The Hemisphere are another re-entry. I ran a set of 26x 1.95 for commuting across South London 25 yeas back and found that version dependable, albeit ponderous.

Tooled Up & Misdirected Blame

 

With hedge-clipping season in full swing, my attention turned to tyres, tubes and crucially tyre levers. The latter are largely forgotten until we're crouched by the roadside on a cold and rainy night, trying to release a particularly tight bead. With this in mind, Weldtite has sent me their 2.0 tyre levers and a rather nice looking twenty-function multi-tool.

The latter's design is reminiscent of the Crank Brothers M19 with its knurled side plates for grip-even with sweaty palms or wearing winter gloves. I’ve an M17 still serving, it’s a little world weary now, the chain tool long expired and a bent (but still operational) 3m Allen key.  One of the more interesting features-a welcome addition in principle is the disc brake rotor tool.  

They also sent me the smaller version of their Rubber Workshop Matt with Magnet. The Rubber ensures it won’t slide around and the magnetic layer ensures you’ll foil rogue felines looking to play ball bearing billiards. I’ve gone for the smaller size since it’s portable, meaning I can do small jobs, like headset and hub overhauls outside, should need, or fancy take me. The relatively thick rubber will protect surfaces, especially if exerting force- say exorcising a stubborn pedal, or hub.

Having tweaked the Spyre into what I believed was sweet submission, I was still experiencing a faint, intermittent tinkling. I decided a quiet byway was the best place to conduct a thorough troubleshoot.  Monitoring the rotor and pads with sporadic acceleration confirmed this wasn't the culprit.

A gentle tug of the cassette revealed some minor, but palpable play, suggesting the freehub was the most likely culprit. Post-ride investigation confirmed this. Murphey's Law also revealed the spare XT laced hoop was also showing signs of isolated play. Yup, another freehub bit the dust.

Not having replacement freehubs and hub bearings to hand, I decided the most efficient use of time and energy was to leave both wheels with Madgetts Cycles. This was an opportunity to get everything checked ahead of winter, while I tackled other pressing matters.

Decent bike shops are worth their weight in gold. Just because we can do the jobs, it’s not always convenient, or the best use of our time.  I’d have my wheels sorted and ready by the time it took two compatible freehubs to arrive in the post. 

All this had me pondering the acquisition of a newer XT hub running a centre lock disc and having that built into a wheel, laced three-cross for some added strength. Not that I'm unduly heavy or have a less than compassionate riding style, but greater stress is placed upon the rear wheel, especially with a disc brake.

I'd contemplated 36 spokes, but chances are I'll stick with a 32, since this would allow me to use an existing rim.  The most likely candidate being that presently hosting the Halo Spin Doctor, which has done a very modest mileage.  During this phase, I spotted this 36-hole Shimano FH-RM70 going for proverbial pennies. Loosely comparable with Alivio, it’s simple and rugged, although will benefit from a really beefy grease to keep winter’s worst out. Designed for rim brakes, its most likely something I’d have built into a spare wheel for Denise.   

Meantime, I’d noted Ursula’s chain was closer to .6, so replaced it, along with one of the cassettes, since a new chain will only kick up on new sprockets and vice-versa. I’ve reverted to wax while the autumn seems fair-weather, although chances are I’ll default to the Weldtite All Weather Weldtite All Weather Lube | cycling-not-racing . Weldite have also sent me their Wet Lube, which I’m advised is a successor to their Extreme Wet WELDTITE TF2 EXTREME WET CHAIN LUBRICANT .

The Extreme wet was a mix of ISO oils and specialist additives, whereas the wet consists of (detail). While stodgy wet lubes will attract dirt ad grit, which left unchecked, can significantly shorten the lifespan of drivetrain components, they still have their place.  Aside from staying put in really harsh conditions, they double as passable grease substitutes on fasteners- stem bolts, mudguard and rack, bottle screws and cleats being prime examples. A drop into electroplated Allen heads will also fend off the dreaded orange taint.

Too heavy for cables, a drop on the ends where they enter the ferrule will help seal the elements out. Another useful product that works well on cables is Finish Line 1 Step Cleaner and Lube TEST & REVIEW: FINISH LINE 1-STEP CLEANER AND LUBE. Marketed primarily as a chain lube, the aerosol version is particularly effective-I’ve witnessed it bring gummed up shifters back from the brink with a couple of blasts. The solvent component does the cleaning and leaves a light lube-much sturdier than a maintenance spray behind.

In a pinch, a few drops of wet lube will also keep quick release skewers mobile-at least until you can get to some decent grease. I’ve been fairly impressed by the Juice Lubes Slick Juice Juice Lubes Slick Juice Low Friction Gre | cycling-not-racing which is kind to rubberised and composite components, so can be applied most components and surfaces.  Obviously not for carbon and other materials requiring a gripper paste.

Right, since we’re creeping ever closer to the wetter months, I’ll leave you with Steve’s review of the Leatt MTB Hydradri 5.0 Jacket Leatt MTB Hydradri 5.0 Jacket | cycling-not-racing

Spin Dizzy: Fresh Freehubs & Other Wheel Woes

Despite the rescue attempt, the Halo Spin Doctor’s Freehub had succumbed to pawl spring failure. Ison-distribution were characteristically incredibly helpful and empathetic, sending me a replacement the next day. I’m hoping this will be a long-term cure. However, I bought another XT hub as a precaution, while opportunity and favourable pricing presented. 

I’d been enjoying a succession of very mucky outings aboard Ursula, I succumbed to a sudden and unwelcome rear blow out and a minor wibble in the sturdy Sputnik/XT wheel. This ultimately meant a six mile walk home and led me to retire the basic but generally likeable Maxxis Ikon Maxxis Ikon Tyres | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) 2,500 mixed terrain miles down the line. Doesn’t matter how well built a wheel, or how sturdy your tyres, catch that sharp, or that hole with your name on it and something’s gonna give.  

 

A couple of riders slowed and offered help-as is the standard code for us and understood there wasn’t much that could be done at that stage-the spare tubes had also failed. I thanked them and we went our separate ways. I was mortified when a middle-aged woman stopped her Nissan Qashqai and asked if I needed help, or a lift somewhere. I was touched on the one hand and made clear I was grateful. However, I’m also very wary of people and their motivations and often find accepting help very difficult.  

 

At that time, I also wanted to be alone with my thoughts and to reflect. I’ve replaced the rear Ikon for a Continental Cross King Shield Wall (26x2.3) which promises to handle well on most surfaces and a puncture- repelling belt also promises greater reliability.  I left Mick Madgett to work his magic with the Rigida/XT hoop and build another wheel based around an XT hub as a second/spare since opportunity presented and my faith in the Spin Doctor had waned. 

 

Though quite different, removing the spin doctor freehub cast me back to the old Maillard Helicomatic system from the early 1980s. I had one on a bike bought in March 1988 primarily for the frameset and ultimately, converting to a fixed gear. Rebuilt pretty much and racked up many miles in the four years of ownership. Daylight where head and down tube met signalled the end. I salvaged the good, transferable components and ported them over to a geared winter/training frameset in the summer of ‘92.  

I toyed with the notion of running it as a 1x6spd and bought another Helicomatic Freewheel- a very close ratio, knee-busting block, since that’s all I could find and in my impressionable teenage mind, it would be fine…Point being, it was incredibly easy to switch these blocks, compared to a traditional screw-on freewheel. However, it was one of those concepts that wasn’t fully embraced and ultimately, the freehub system became dominant.  

Perhaps unsurprisingly, it featured on some early 80’s Peugeots. I digress. I’ve decided it's now time to switch the Holdsworth’s BBB Razor for the Smanie GT137 saddle, which is 137mm wide, 257g and features hollow Cro-Moly rails. A little wider than the mighty Razor but may offer a little more support and, all right, I fancied a change, ahead of the Spring when hopefully the weather will be nice enough for some fast blasts.  

By that point, I’ll switch the fixed gear winter trainer’s KMC Z1 for the half-link Gusset Slink. For the uninitiated, the latter is a beefy model that will add some further girth but in my experience is great for getting chain length bang on and they’re super durable too. Despite suggestions, the Blub Ceramic has been surprisingly stoical despite some persistently wet, muddy lanes.  

I returned a good 280 miles in these contexts before giving the bike a seriously deep clean and deciding the gungy beard of mud and contaminant needed purging too. Having got everything respectable, I found myself spinning the wheels and discovered a very loose spoke.  

So loose that the nipple had retreated into the rim. I whipped off the tyre, tube, and rim tape, only to hear the nipple orbiting the rim and then vanishing. Never to be seen again. Another email to Ison and they graciously sent me some brass14g replacements. 

I overcame my 37-year fear of the spoke key (some might draw parallels with the android’s fear of the screwdriver cited in Channel 4’s 1984 tongue- in- cheek sci-fi drama “They Came from somewhere else”.) and wound a new one in, judiciously snugging the spoke taut, plucking the others to ensure uniformity. I’ve said this before, but this long-standing terror came from one summer afternoon in 1987.  

 

Armed with a rather basic spoke key, a cherished copy of Richard’s Bicycle Book and a vague notion of turning the spokes, I got busy with my Holdsworthy Butler’s front wheel… Transforming the 3mm wibble into a samba dancing hoop.  Sure, I’ve tweaked the odd nipple I desperation miles from home, but it was always with a sense of acute trepidation. Never trusted my own wheel building and over the years from chatting with other riders anecdotally, I’m not alone.