Pumping & Prepping

 

Not in the Mad Max post-apocalyptic sense, although global events and the political climate have certainly left me imagining some very dark scenarios. Growing up in the 1980s, I recall the very real threat of nuclear war and societal collapse and frankly, we seem closer to both scenarios, now…

After ten years, I was compelled by the urge to strip and inspect the Blackburn Piston 4. Would a good clean and regrease of the gasket and piston (plunger, if you prefer) restore its slick, refined efficiency? The hose and chuck were al in good shape and it was still very functional, delivering the desired pressures but the piston action and airflow weren’t optimal.

Undoing two little Philip screws, everything separated smoothly and in one piece. Gasket and plunger were sporting a gungy beard, but essentially sound. Degreasers can be a little harsh, so I gave both parts a light rinse with tepid water and then treated both to a few blasts of Juice Lubes Bike Wash.

Now, I’d generally steer people toward solvent based aerosol cleaners, or industrial alcohol when cleaning the barrel’s inner sanctum. However, I blasted some Motoverde Drivetrain Degreaser inside and left it doing its thing for five minutes, turning my attention to the gasket and piston. A gentle tickling with this Green Oil Bike Brush GREEN OIL BIKE BRUSH REVIEW and some tepid water cut through the grot.

Rinse, dry and reach for grease. Swerve anything lithium, or PTFE-based. When it comes to Silca, only use their dedicated preps. Otherwise, silicone formulas are a good default, but I’ve gone for the Juice Lubes Slick Juice. Liberal around the gasket, sparingly along the piston’s lower section. That done, I returned to the Piston 4’s barrel. I dried this in two stages. Some old, scrap towel doing the lion’s share, judicious deployment of a hairdryer on medium heat removing any residual, mischievous dampness.

On a roll, I took the same route with my SKS Air-X-Plorer Digi Floor Pump SKS Air-X-Plorer Digi Floor Pump | cycling-not-racing. This is stereotypically Teutonic in terms of build quality. Same MO, save for the collar screws being M25 Torx. Piston, spring and gasket were particularly solid. This time, I cleaned these with bike wash but exorcised the barrel using an aerosol solvent cleaner. Everything slid back together beautifully, any faint stiction well and truly banished.

Well and truly in the zone, I popped Muffin in the work stand and decided to remove the Genetic Tibia crank, clean and inspect the ring and give the frame a good waxing while I was about it. Be rude not too… I’ve gone for self-extracting bolts and was initially disconcerted by their reticence. Gentle persistence with the 8mm Allen key secured the drive side’s release.   

A tag team of Motoverde Drivetrain Cleaner Motoverde Drivetrain Cleaner | cycling-not-racing and Muc-Off Chain Wax Cleaner Muc-Off Chain Wax Cleaner 500ml | cycling-not-racing  consumed the slightly gungy residue clinging to the teeth, making inspection and assessment viable. The ring is still in good shape, so stays for now. I’ll review come November and at that point, will take a view and chain replacement may be all that’s called for.

I turned my attentions to the TRP Spyre SLC, giving the pads and disc a cat-lick, ensuring the piston movement was optimal. An easy, preventative tweak. Muffin back in the workshop, I turned my attention to Denise. I was keen to see whether the Magicshine Ray3000 would sit securely atop the auction site Garmin Mount.

Given the light’s girth, I needed to relocate the Genetic Neuron Accessory Bar GENETIC NEURON ACCESSORY BAR | cycling-not-racing outboard, necessitating a quick dip into the shim bag. While on that particular mission, I found another Magicshine handlebar mount, which is an improvement on that supplied with the Coospo Real Road CS600 GPS Bike Computer Coospo CS600 GPS | cycling-not-racing  . Sure the bars feel a little busier, which might bring the clutter-phobic out in hives. However, there was a bigger, unwelcome surprise in store. During our first outing, the out-front mount ejected the Ray3000. Testament to its build quality, not so much as a scratch.

Closer inspection revealed the plastic Garmin pattern mount had deformed and fractured at one point. I switched the light to the resin Magicshine mount and popped the Coospo CS600 in my jersey pocket for the remaining five miles. Diagnostics done, I arrived home, had a rummage in the spare munts bag and found a replacement. I also took the opportunity to exchange the Gaciron Cetus 1700 Gaciron Cetus 1700 Underneath Bike Light | cycling-not-racing mount for the Magicshine Hori 1300 Magicshine HORI 1300 Front Light | cycling-not-racing for those times when I’m testing the Ray 3000 on another machine and I want more lumens than the Exposure Revo dynamo lamp can muster.

 

 

 

 

 

Freeing the Soul, Sorting the Brake

 

Some lovely kit arrived in the form of this BBB Karma MIPS helmet and Altura Airstream Jersey and bib shorts. The Karma is a nicely executed, particularly airy design using MIPS (Multi Directional Impact Protection System). This is the air node version that’s integral to the padding and supposedly the lightest iteration.

Twenty-five vents are impressive, but the raised crossbeams theoretically encourage air through the scalp. In practice, this would appear so in practice. I was pleased to note the polycarbonate shell extends around the rim, protecting the EPS liner from everyday carelessness. Though arguably a road design, I’ve found its made excellent transition to gravel duties and the shape is very accommodating of high-power lights, such as this Sigma Buster HL2000 SIGMA SPORT BUSTER HL 2000 | cycling-not-racing

A rogue red deer cantering from a hedge, into my path seemed keen to test the lid’s credentials but thankfully, my reaction times and bike handling skills kept everything in check. Altura’s Airstream are budget garments but definitely very cheerful. Both have been revised (for the better) since the set I tested back in 2021.

Pockets are deep, supportive and they’ve added a fourth, zippered model with a long, user-friendly tag. However, the left-handed will doubtless point out it doesn’t favour everyone.  Having exhausted the 50ml bottle of Muc-Off Dark Energy Chain Wax Muc-Off Dark Energy Chain Wax | cycling-not-racing , I’ve been taking to the trails and unmade byways to see how the Continental Terra Trail perform on hardpack and loose surfaces.

Speed, compliance and grip are impressive in these contexts and while the Genetic Digest are a touch broad for some gaps, this is tempered by their leverage and shallow drop. These provide excellent control when hunkered down and hossing along the singletrack. A good bet for trailer tugging and similar duties- yep, they’re staying. I dialled things that bit sharper by raising the stem a few millimetres. Some adjustments are genuinely intuitive and tend to strike mid, or post ride.

Denise’s rear stopper decided to turn erratic and mischievous. Not that I use a rear brake often, but if something’s fitted, then it needs to perform well. Having stopped to commune with this little Shetland during one forest trail frolic, I decided it was time to strip and clean the arms and replace inner and outer cables.

A simple job, but sometimes I’m my own worst enemy…Spares boxes open, I was contemplating all sorts- switching the cantilevers for some Tekro…Or some Dia Compe…Or Some Avid…Investigating this and other options saw time evaporate-precisely the opposite of what I’d intended.

After some faff and deliberation, I stripped and cleaned the brakes, bosses, applied some Peaty’s Speed Grease PEATY'S SPEED GREASE | cycling-not-racing , replaced the cables. Stripped out, both had seen better days and an obvious impairment to smooth braking.  Another bog-standard but very serviceable Clarks stainless inner, but Jagwire’s CGX SL outer. This features a high carbon coil steel, providing the strength required for braking, the carbon component limiting compression. This coupled with the lubricated liner ensures excellent modulation and feel, even commanded by Tektro’s cheerful RL340 lever.

I still treat outers and inners to a blast of maintenance spray, since opportunity presents. A precautionary drop of super glue on the freshly snipped inner seals the deal. My experience of bog standard cablesets, regardless of brand is they are serviceable enough and a very inexpensive way of restoring shifting and braking prowess- so long as they're replaced seasonally-especially on working bikes.

However, spending just a little more can reap better rewards in terms of weather resistance and performance. Pre-lubricated liners also keep things slick and largely eliminate the need for periodic flushing through with GT85 GT85 ALL PURPOSE LUBRICANT, Muc-Off MO94 Muc-Off MO94 Multi Use Spray | cycling-not-racing.

Inner wires seem less prone to stretch, cut nicely and tend not to fray so readily. That said don't skimp on decent quality cutters. I'm also quick to add that precautionary blob of superglue to the ends.  Less elegant than solder, or a crimp perhaps but effective.

You needn't spend a fortune either. Transfil Flying Snakes are c. £25, very durable and supposedly 30% lighter thanks to the Kevlar/composite outers. Forget cable cuffs, or helicopter tape at your paintwork's peril and installation requires more patience compared with other brands I've used. 

 I’m pleased to report the Ergon Orthocell Handlebar tape  Ergon Orthocell Handlebar Tape | cycling-not-racing  was still receptive to being re-wound and shows little signs of wear. Elsewhere, I’d been having a few issues with a Garmin pattern mount and the Gaciron Xiaoman 1000 light, so took a gamble on an auction site stem mount…

Despite some initial scepticism and tiny screws for the Garmin and GoPro patterns, I was pleasantly surprised by how easily it came together and crucially, how securely it holds the Gaciron Xiaoman and Coospo CS600 Coospo CS600 GPS | cycling-not-racing. Suffice to say, I’ve bought a second.

  

Smaller Buster, Slacker Chains & Bigger Tyres

 

I've also been playing with Sigma's smaller, 110 lumen Buster. Output is good, although I'd steer you toward the 1600 Sigma Buster 1600 & RL150 Light Set | cycling-not-racing or HL2000 since these have more bite and in the latter's case, longer run times courtesy of the external battery. The HL2000 SIGMA SPORT BUSTER HL 2000 | cycling-not-racing also comes with a remote as standard.  That out of the way, the Buster 1100 still offers a good spread of modes for general riding and the flashing modes are both frugal and eye catching-

Seemed to upset an Audi driver, which was ironic, given I am regularly dazzled by the intensity of Audi and other contemporary vehicle headlights, typically in the driver's seat but also the saddle. This despite sophisticated sensor technology that supposedly automatically adjusting to prevent dazzling and related hazards. I suspect the sensors will improve as time progresses, but I find their real-world performance a little erratic at present. 

While I was awaiting the arrival of the Garmin pattern mounts, I discovered another suitable design while hunting for something else. Was bound to happen-these things always materialise when we’re not looking for them. It was the “Goldilocks” length-long enough not to foul the Sigma Buster HL1100, while positioning the Coospo CS600 at the right angle I ported the head unit over from Denise. I’ve also left the old school Giant computer adorning Denise’s Genetic Diversion drops and fork leg, so I can always keep an overview of speed, distance and similar.  Those little victories…

Chain tension is a hotly debated topic in fixed gear circles. I'd left a couple of extra links and opted for slightly less tension with Muffin's new KMC. Not that the Izumi was unduly tight, but this has rewarded with slightly greater efficiency. The KMC Go Wax lube is also continuing the serene theme.

Greater clearance between rear tyre and seat tube is another benefit. I've gone for the 42mm Contact plus at the rear, which is a really solid, comfortable tyre, sticking with a 38mm Vittoria Adventure tech up front. I might go for a 42mm Vee Tire Co Zilent TEST & REVIEW VEE TIRE CO ZILENT TYRES when the Continental finally shows signs of wear. The original Zilent weren't intended for touring, but proved popular with this audience, so Vee Tyre Co reinforced the sidewalls on the MK II TESTED: VEE TIRE CO ZILENT MARK 2 TYRES

Despite "only" having a puncture repelling centre-strip, the 38mm Vittoria Adventure Tech are proving very reliable and, like the Continental, quicker than might be expected, given their girth. The 5mm puncture repelling belt is reminiscent of that employed in the Kenda Kwik Journey KENDA KWICK JOURNEY TYRES | cycling-not-racing but the Vittoria feel more supple and compliant.

There is sufficient clearance at the front for 42mm- I parked a Maxxis Roamer TESTED : MAXXIS ROAMER TYRES.   there during the summer but sought greater dependability during the darker months. Winter is hard on rider, drivetrain components, wheels and tyres, but with proper prep and the right kit, it can be a whole lot of fun, too.

For three seasons riding, I find ¾ lengths ideal, or at least cover most bases, protecting knees from chill and just long enough to provide a good seal with longer socks. I often pair with longer waterproof socks, such as these Muc-Off. Whisper it, since some consider it a genre faux pas, but I also find them and their extended coverage very practical for off road excursions.

Having given Muffin a good sudsy bucket clean and addressed some slippage of the T-One Mr Fantastic Handlebar tape T-ONE MR FANTASTIC HANDLEBAR TAPE | cycling-not-racing, I topped up the KMC GO and  installed the composite Garmin mount  to Ursula’s Velo Orange Handlebar Accessory Mount VELO ORANGE HANDLEBAR ACCESSORY MOUNT | cycling-not-racing, which necessitated removing the Ravemen XR 6000 Ravemen XR6000 Front Light | cycling-not-racing but this is less problematic as we enter the lighter months.

Besides, I could always switch to the Sigma Buster HL2000 SIGMA SPORT BUSTER HL 2000 | cycling-not-racing and helmet mounting for rides on the wilder side. Helmet life and when to chuck them is a hotly debated topic. However, I’ve retired a few that have served eight years or so. I no longer trusted their integrity and in a couple of instances, adjustment dials were getting sloppy. I’m not going to argue with someone who disagrees with me on this front. I’ve worked with acquired brain injury and similar neurological conditions in the past and their impact upon people’s lives have certainly left an impression.

 During this episode of impromptu spring cleaning, I also took this opportunity to remove the seat post and check the grease’s tenure. This in turn prompted me to blast a little more corrosion inhibitor inside the seat tube.

As miles and familiarity with the Coospo CS600 increase, I’m discovering some minor niggles. Communication with the touch screen appears hit n’ miss wearing full finger gloves-even those with extensive silicone detailing, but I’ll try some others to see if this is an isolated, or consistent issue.

The auto backlight and similar sensored functions perform very reliably and while the anti-glare display is consistently good, the radar graphics are definitely sharper after dark.