Lube it, Scrub It, Hold It, True Them

 

Though I generally treat fixed and single speed chains to middleweight wet formulas, I decided Muffin’s Izumi to the Weldtite Wax and was pleasantly surprised by how frisky the transmission felt, while remaining serenely quiet. For context, I was averaging 18.1mph in contexts where otherwise I average 17.1mph.

Without lab testing facilities, much of this is easily attributable to psychosomatic, dare I say novelty influence, so many more miles in different conditions are needed before passing tangible comment. Weldtite say by using the double helping technique I should exceed the 300km mark from a single application, but by how much. What influence, if any do damp, autumnal conditions have upon this and indeed, the lube’s other properties.

Plan is to run it through September and early October, then, chances are I’ll switch to the All-Weather Lube.

Staying with chains, I am always interested in new brushes and similar tech that makes cleaning that bit easier. In my experience, one of the biggest problems is keeping the bristles clean and effective long term.

Too much solvent tends to soften them. Wet lubes and contaminant can also be difficult to shift. This seems the case, regardless of price. I’ve found the most effective technique is to soak them in degreaser, work this into a lather and flush them through-twice. First with very warm, then cool water.

Finally dry (and remove any residual grot with clean rag) The long bristle plots, designed for cassettes and rings are the most vulnerable to this kind of contamination. Will be interesting to see how the Oxford compares with These Finish Line Finish Line Grunge Brush Solo | cycling-not-racing and Muc-Off Muc-Off Bicycle Chain Brush | cycling-not-racing     

 

As the miles rack up, I’m becoming increasingly endeared to the M Part Primo Handlebar Tape.

The texture is grippy but with none of the stickiness associated with some. I’m pleasantly indifferent to the tacky tapes and have grown to love some over time. The Ciclovation Grind Touch CICLOVATION GRIND TOUCH BAR TAPE | cycling-not-racing being one example. ENVE  Enve Handlebar Tape | cycling-not-racing is also grippy, though stops short of feeling tacky. Its also very hard wearing and easy to clean.

One thing led to another, and I found myself upgrading Denise's quill stem adaptor from the auction site special to this Profile Design, which is perhaps unsurprisingly, made to an infinitely higher standard, with greater scope for adjustment and clearly marked minimum insert line. I also treated the expander wedge and internal length with some of the Zefal Pro II Grease, which will hopefully keep corrosion and seizure at bay.  These minor tweaks have resolved the minor reach issues.  

While giving the bike a while I'm here once-over, I also noted the front wheel dancing a curious samba. I was somewhat astonished- must’ve caught a rut along a section of newly discovered byway. I switched to the Halo Evaura/SL9 HALO EVURA & SHUTTER PRECISION SL9 DYNOHUB BUILD pairing with the Maxxis Ravager Maxxis Ravager TR Tyres | cycling-not-racing, while I left the Ryde Sputnik/Ultegra dynohub and Mavic Open Pro/Halo Fix-G HALO FIX G TRACK HUB | Seven Day Cyclist Tourin Tests Commuting with Mick Madgett. An opportunity to explore rougher stuff aboard Ursula and I’d been toying with switching the front Mud Hugger Evo Mudhugger Evo Front Mudguard | cycling-not-racing for something lighter and more minimalist to see just how much difference a smaller guard makes.

Mudguards (fenders) have been slowly creeping into the gravel market. I remain seriously impressed by the Mudhugger Gravel Hugger MUD HUGGER GRAVEL HUGGER MUDGURADS | cycling-not-racingbut other, arguably more traditional looking models have been creeping into the market. Some look to be models aimed at folks wanting their gravel bikes to serve as winter road bikes.

Provided your frame has eyelets and you were happy to run just a rear guard, cutting down a voluptuous mountain bike model, just before the bridge is a cheap but effective and done properly, presentable “for pennies” solution. One I’ve toyed with a few times. Old SKS are in some respects idea candidates- broad, really solid chrome plastics and stays, although unless you could pick some up very cheaply, I'd be inclined to repurpose a scrap pair for this kind of duty. 

As September progresses, I’ve been exploring more of the unmade roads and bridle paths, exploiting Ursula's true off-road pedigree into the bargain. Since her restoration last August, with the notable exception of winter spikes during the season's worst, I've kept her as a drop bar mountain bike shod with sturdy cross-country rubber. Despite some limitations, I'm quite fond of the Continental Cross Kings Continental Cross King Protection Black | cycling-not-racing, but more so the CST Patrol, which represent excellent bang for very modest buck.

In common with the Cross Kings, there are some limitations, especially in bogy mud but for hardpack and less challenging stuff, they're surprisingly swift and grippy.  2.25 sections are still practical propositions for older, cross country mountain bike framesets, while offering a decent amount of compliance and even at 50-55psi, ride quality isn't unduly harsh. There's still a decent amount of choice when it comes to 26-inch but few new models are coming through in this size. 

 

Spring- Sunrise & Strip-downs

  

Yes, inspiration doesn't just strike in the saddle-the small house is another chamber of innovation, and Eureka moments. I discarded the hard-working but progressively deteriorating SKS Blumels Shiny Mudguards SKS BLUEMELS SHINY MUDGUARDS | cycling, but not ususally racing (sevendaycyclist.com), and gave the frameset a deep clean. A good polish and rear wheel switch followed, and I also took delivery of this Mud hugger guard.  

I’d tested their gravel hugger cousins MUD HUGGER GRAVEL HUGGER MUDGURADS | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) and remain impressed with their build quality and coverage. Obviously, protection doesn’t rival that of full length, traditional chrome plastics but it does broaden Ursula’s off-road potential and indeed, tyre choice. I could, for example, run the Schwalbe Ice Spiker Pro albe Ice Spiker Pro Tyres | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) comfortably at the rear.   

Now, look closely and I’ve had to trim the mounts since it was fouling the fork’s cantilever mounts. I initially mounted them with two cable ties each side- a 4.8mm and two slightly thinner OEM. I ultimately switched these for two 7.6mm example for improved, vise-like grip.  

 

The Mud hugger would also allow bigger section, trail-orientated rubber and exploit the machine’s true off-road potential. No rear guard? Mud Hugger are designed as disc-specific, so incompatible with Ursula’s rear triangle.  Traditionally I’ve not taken to clip-on MTB guards, save for the legendary Crud models.  Others have either had an unappealing aesthetic and/or tended to rotate and ultimately, warp and fail.  I have something planned on the tyre front but will leave you guessing for now.  

I was still testing the Weldtite Bike Cleaner Concentrate and was getting a funny feeling about the XT hub’s freehub, so this presented an obvious opportunity to remove and the cassette, strip and inspect the freehub and upgrade the bearings.  

Everything released nicely-not surprising, given I’d not long stripped and re-greased the bearings with Juice Lubes Bearing Grease. The freehub seemed fine-I just wiped with a clean rag and drizzled some Peaty’s Speed Grease PEATY'S SPEED GREASE | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) into the freehub bearings and threaded fastener.  

For the bearings, I went for something a little thicker, but lighter than the Juice Lubes Bearing Juice. Muc-Off Bio Grease TESTED : MUC-OFF BIO GREASE (sevendaycyclist.com) was to hand and in my experience, is reassuringly durable.  

Little and often maintenance is the best way of staying on the road or trails and breakdowns/component failure and costs to a minimum. However, things are a little more nuanced than this. I (and many other riders) run two sets of wheels on their daily drivers/working bikes, meaning I can switch while I service and to a greater extent take more time, should components require replacement, or similar service staller strike.  

Similarly, there is a point where the convenience, economy and satisfaction of working on our machines (be they bicycles, motorcycles, cars, boats etc) can tip over into an all-consuming orgy of continuous improvement. Time, other duties all evaporate in the quest to metaphorically (and sometimes literally) “tune beyond perfection”. That’s fun and resonates very deeply with me. However, when it comes to everyday maintenance and overhaul, tasks are best confined to certain, disciplined timescales.   

Plan ahead, be organised, have the correct tools to hand and quit while you’re genuinely ahead. Maintenance courses can be a sensible investment if you’re a beginner, or just looking to improve. There’s always something to learn and skilled instructors to guide and inspire confidence.   

Conditions have felt a little more spring-like, not that I’ve brought out the ¾ lengths and lightweight, long-sleeve jerseys just yet. I have regrettably had to pension off the Altura Night Vision Waterproof Gloves, which had done around 35,000miles (about 56327.04 km) over the last 5 years.  

Again, with heavy heart, I also consigned a pair of the brands’ bib tights to the bin. The pad was past its prime and the Lycra was also showing signs of abrasion damage, so thanked and read their last rites. Talking of reading, here’s a guide to the river Rhone Cycle Route THE RIVER RHONE CYCLE ROUTE GUIDE REVIEW (sevendaycyclist.com)  

 

Shims & Other Satisfying Solutions

Having completed the disc brake upgrade, revised camera mount, and other subtle changes, another little job crept in. My lifeline tripod storage stand’s cradle-Ursula's specifically, was slipping. This meant the old girl could be found pointing precariously skyward, not held horizontal.   

Ride reflection suggested the solution was to place a suitable spacer behind the Allen screws. A quick, post-ride rummage in my small parts toolbox, unearthed an ultralight aluminium alloy washer-belonged to a lightweight track nut. Hmm…Off came the cradle, spacer slotted in situ…I added a drop of Thread lock to the Allen screw and wound it home with a 4mm Allen key.  

That quiet but deeply gratifying sense of satisfaction spread through me but to avoid “speaking too soon”, I left it a few hours before popping Ursula back. Success! Result! (Insert alternative expression of joy).  

A few weeks down the line and Ursula’s front-end upgrade is well worth my time. Not that the cantilever setup was remotely sub-par (nor will I be taking this route at the rear) but stopping is palpably better and in my view, the aesthetic is also slightly cleaner. Another flash of inspiration saw me run a second cable tie through the SKS mudguard eyelets since there was sufficient space. Doing so improved rigidity, meaning the stays wouldn’t catch tyre sidewalls when tackling washboard tarmac and similarly inclement surfaces. Pleased to report theory and practice meet.   

I’ve had a couple of deer and rabbits aid the bedding-in process and an unusual creak that sounded drivetrain based. A bit of honking confirmed it was the Kinket 2.1 Suspension Seat post KINEKT 2.1 SUSPENSION SEAT POST | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com)  

A quick blast of Muc-Off Silicone Spray MUC OFF SILICON SHINE POLISH | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) restored order. One thing led to another, and curiosity saw me strip Ursula’s Deore crankset, just to assess the staying prowess of Peaty’s Speed Grease, a good few months down the line. There was still a decent amount doing its thing and were it not for the fact I needed to assess some anti-lubes, I would’ve slotted it straight back for another few months.  

Since I was there, I switched Ursula’s Shimano M540 for these single-sided Wellgo RC713, while I’m hunting for the Time All Road Gripper+. So much for leaving things be! Incidentally, the Wellgo has shaved a whopping 47g from the build. 

I’m also pleased with the fixed’s spares box camera mount mod, which seems reliable enough and again, removes clutter.  Talking of bars, here’s my review of the Ciclovation Grind Touch Handlebar Tape CICLOVATION GRIND TOUCH BAR TAPE | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com)   

Then, the good folks at Moto Verde and Extra UK sent me some goodies. Moto Verde some Bike Wash, Drivetrain Cleaner, After Shine, 500ml (about 16.91 oz (about 500.09 ml)) Waterless Wax, and this 125ml PTFE Chain Lube. Extra UK graciously sent me some Swiss Stop rotors to play with. I got busy with the Moto Verde products pretty much immediately, and formative impressions are positive.  

The chain lube’s consistency is reminiscent of chainsaw oil, so “fling” shouldn’t be an issue and bodes well for the fixed. Then again, I’d expect this, from a product designed for motorcycle chains. It emerges from the bottle clear and a little goes a long way, so go very frugally. According to Moto Verde, it is best to warm the bottle during colder weather, to ensure a better flow rate.  

Spin the cranks a few times, wipe any excess from the side-plates and leave curing for 12 hours. Once cured, it assumes a state I wasn’t expecting. Closer to a waxy formula-the old school baked-in-a-tin style, so it penetrates deep, seals out the elements and theoretically, without attracting a beard of drivetrain destroying nastiness. 

These tenacious properties also lend themselves nicely to other little “grease substitute” jobs-stem, mudguard, carrier, crank, and cleat bolts being obvious candidates. Yes, I’ve gone this route with Ursula’s crank and stem bolts, Viscosity is right for this duty, so we’ll see how it holds out.  Talking of Ursula, here’s the pandemic from her perspective.. Ursula: The Never-Ending Story | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com)