Fettling Orgies

 

Having packed pedals, since I wanted to see how stiff this particular lithium-based prep would be through the darker, wetter months, I applied to Denise’s Hollowtech II axle. There was ample Peaty’s Speed Grease PEATY'S SPEED GREASE | cycling-not-racing clinging on, but then was the time. I’d noted the pinch bolts and pre-load were a little dry. The former were unexpectedly arthritic, so regreasing was imperative before seizure could creep in and cause mischief at the least convenient moment.     

Lithium based preps have an unenviable reputation for gobbling seals, elastomers and other rubberised components and can be a little stodgy.  

Fine on contact points, and very durable on winter hubs, but not necessarily desirable if you're competing and want to keep resistance at a minimum. While there's more discernible resistance compared with blends such as Peaty's Speed Grease (which I also surprisingly durable) its much lower than I'd expected and buttery smooth.

Staying prowess, temperature stability, water resistance and general durability are definite plusses and explains their traditional popularity in marine and automotive applications. Time will tell, but at £4.99 for 150ml, at face value, it seems a bargain for generic metal on metal duties.  It’s also been applied to cleat hardware, (which we're all guilty of neglecting until time comes for their replacement).  

Galvanic corrosion, say between metals of different parentage can be another issue- I wouldn't apply lithium to a titanium seat post used in a steel, or aluminium alloy frame for example. However, I'd be less concerned about an anodised aluminium post being used in a steel frame. A polished, fluted aluminium alloy post and I'd be reaching for a synthetic, or failing that, something PTFE based. 

I’ve decided to stick with wax and dry lubes while the weather allows and having covered 250odd miles on the Blub Wax, I’ve got busy with some Carbon friendly drivetrain cleaner, which I’ve had for some years and resurrected from the lubes box. It’s fairly straightforward to apply-simply spray liberally on the drivetrain, leave for a couple of minutes, agitate with a stiff bristled brush, or something like this Finish Line Gunge Brush Finish Line Grunge Brush Solo | cycling-not-racing

I reached for some Muc-Off Dry, since that was close to hand, MUC OFF DRY CHAIN LUBE | cycling-not-racing In my experience, its closer to an emulsion and requires at least four hours to cure properly. Like the Blub, can also melt when temperatures hit the high 20s. In this state, it’s still relatively durable but also readily transfers to hands-annoying if you’ve dropped a chain, or needing to tackle a mid-ride mechanical. Checking the chain health suggests more life than first believed just past .25, so reckon I’ll get to the close of October, possibly even November before its bin fodder. However, I’ve pruned a fresh one down to 108 links in readiness for a quick switch. I noted the front brake pads were looking a little tired, so took this opportunity to replace the pads and regrease the cantilever posts using the Zefal Pro II Grease, which was time well spent and another little job off the list before autumn.   

Talking of switches, following a hunch that packing single sided pedal bodies with a stout grease would offer some weighting (making engagement easier) I switched Muffin to the silver A520 and also moved the down tube bottle cage slightly, which improved access.  

I’m pleased to report the Juice Lubes Bearing Juice has added some weighting and thus, made re-entry (say when frequently clipping in and out in slow moving traffic) more convenient.  While I was there, I  noted the K-Lite Ultra Low Drag K-LITE ULTRA LOW DRAG DYNAMO LIGHT | cycling-not-racing lamp rotating slightly on the Genetic Neuron Accessory Mount GENETIC NEURON ACCESSORY BAR | cycling-not-racing . easily cured by wrapping some scrap inner tube around the mount and replaced the 2.5mm cable ties.   

The nights were quickly drawing in, providing the perfect opportunity to assess the Magicshine Hori 1300’s prowess and I’ve been impressed, not only by the output but its useability. The wireless remote makes it very easy to toggle up and down to avoid dazzling other road users. To my surprise, though obviously good in the seen-with sense, the night flash is potent enough to navigate unlit roads by- at least to 14mph, which is useful should you need to drop down to conserve battery. 

Upside Down

Having replaced the fixed gear winter/trainer’s headset, upon returning from our shakedown ride, I was despondent to discover a load of slop. A carpenter once said to me (while I was struggling with a student magazine feature) “Come back to it”. Words that have always resonated with me and usually, the most effective use of time, too.

Returning to something at a later point, the problem(s) and solutions are often obvious. Against this backdrop, I’d gone to do the supermarket food and fuel run in the KA.  

Fridge and cupboards stocked, I hopped online and looked for an exploded diagram of the FSA Orbit MX. Lo and behold, as I suspected the inscription on the lower race bearing was “upside down” when “right way up”.  

Hmm...work stand erected, wheel out, stem off. Sliding the forks out confirmed I had indeed, put the lower race bearing the wrong way up. Refitted, with an additional lick of Bearing Juice for luck, I double-checked the upper bearing-correct. 

 

Locking headset spacers make refitting stem etc that bit easier, since among other things, it’ll prevent the fork steerer from slipping out. This time round, I employed a gash 700x32c butyl tube to tether everything, while I fitted a 2mm spacer and a Dia Tech locking spacer beneath the Vecnum FreeQENCE Suspension Stem Vecnum FreeQENCE Suspension Stem | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com)  

 

I’ve acquired two Dia Tech locking spacers, one plain, the other with a cable hanger. I’d found them bankrupt stock. Ursula’s is the only part that remains of its original build. Redundant in some respects, given I’ve gone over to disc, the locking function is to me, a serious boon.      

Back to the fixed...

Preload and stem bolts loosely set, everything felt buttery smooth and free of unwanted play. Wheel reinstated, K-Lite dynamo K-LITE ULTRA LOW DRAG DYNAMO LIGHT | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) switch cabling retethered to the fork leg with two cable ties...Out from the stand...Front brake on while rocking the bike back and forth revealed some residual play in the bearings. A slight turn of the preload cured that.  

Stem bolts set to 5mm, rocking test repeated, all felt fine, so I quit while ahead and before obsessional neurosis set in. Anything obvious had been eradicated. A quick cleaning of the frameset with Motoverde Waterless Wash & Wax Motoverde Waterless Wash & Wax | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) before everything was repatriated to the garage.   

I’ve switched Ursula from the Muc Off Dry Lube to Momum MIC Wax Momum MIC Wax Lube | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com), which, in common with its dryMomum Mic Dry Oil Lube | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) sibling is quick curing, can be topped up (without needing to strip the residual) and returns a decent mileage per application. This also gave opportunity to tweak the rear mech’s cable tension, since there was some jumping when riding in the small ring and under load. Little n’ often checks and tweaks are what keeps us rolling and more serious issues/breakdowns minimal.  

 

A few formative rides on the fixed suggests the Dia Tech spacer has solved the problem. Much the same story for the Teenage Dream’s reconfigured transmission. My suspicions that a 42 ring was a better fit than a 39 with the 14-24 block and returning to Time ATAC pedals better knee health is panning out nicely.  

I’ll leave the spec alone now, although how many times have, I said that... Hmm, watch this space... The weather has turned decidedly soggy, meaning I’ve switched back to Ursula and the fixed gear winter/trainer but great for testing, too.  

Aside from being relieved, I’d gone the sealed bearing route with the latter’s new headset, it's proven a wonderful opportunity to get some serious miles in with the Muc Off Waterproof Socks. There are plenty of waterproof designs on the market. Most are genuinely competent, but these seem a better fit with sportier cycling shoes. 

  

I’ll close here with my review of the Madison Roam Men’s Cargo Bib Shorts Madison Roam Men's Cargo Bib Shorts | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) and Steve’s test of the Chiba BioXCell Air Cycling Mitts Chiba BioXCell Air Cycling Mitts | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com)  

Ringing the Changes

  

Having swapped the Mirage for the carbon with Middleburn and Campagnolo Record, I have saved 83g, which was less than I’d expected but saving grams wasn’t the primary, or indeed, original mission.  

Having bolted the rings together and snugging them down “blind” the first sticking point was discovering the Xenon did not employ self-extracting crank bolts, necessitating a quick root around for the crank puller. Not a hardship, but it was not where I’d expected to find it.  

I toyed with treating myself to a Park CCP-22 complete with integrated handle, since Holdsworth, Fixed Gear Winter/Trainer also use square taper cranks (although the Holdswoth’s Stronglight employ self-extracting bolts). However, by and large crank removal is rare and usually coincides with bottom bracket replacement (between 6,000 and 10,000 miles, depending on what fit n’ forget-sealed model I’d gone for).

  

Extractor found; the Xenon literally popped off their tapers-hardly surprising but welcome. A quick tug of the ACOR cartridge bottom bracket also ruled out any slop or grumbling. I might go for something lighter when these strike. Something with a carbon fibre spacer, alloy cups would save a few grams... Back to the crankset.   

Slid on the tapers, I found myself needing to raise the front Victory mech up a few millimetres and for some reason, it got the sulks. Nice new cranks, lovely new rings, what’s going on here???? I mused... 

Hmm, a new cable might sort things- costs pennies and I had a few in. Yup...the new cable sorted matters and the cage was swinging the Sachs chain snappily to and fro. I pruned the cable, leaving a little to subvert potential stretch overnight. Checking the Sachs chain while I was there confirmed it was in good health (although I had a KMC in stock, since these things usually expire at the least convenient moment).  

Continuing the weight saving, knee-friendly theme, I slipped some Peaty’s Bicycle Assembly Grease on the threads and whizzed Time ATAC in- the resin, rather than aluminium bodied versions. A quick once-over of the crank bolts and chain rings the following morning, shifting checked, I topped up the CST Cito CST Cito Folding Tyre | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) with the SKS Air-X-Plorer Digi Floor Pump 10.0 SKS Air-X-Plorer Digi Floor Pump | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) and popped it away ready for a shakedown ride the following morning.    

Wetter weather and the urge to explore green lanes and bridleways has meant Ursula and I have been out to play a fair bit, too. I’m warming to the Maxxis Ikon in these contexts. As I’d expect from a small block model, they’re less ponderous than a more aggressive trail tyre on metalled roads and come into their own along dry singletrack-plenty of smiles per mile. 

 

Despite being the baseline version, the ride is compliant and I’m yet to flat. Kenda Small Block 8 were quicker off the mark and a bit livelier but also more prone to flats. Elsewhere, I’ve gone for Muc Off Dry lube, which is keeping the chain clean and returning reasonable miles per application. It’s also been the ideal opportunity to see how the Madison Roam perform off road proper.  

Time also allowed me to replace the fixed’s Stronglight in favour of the FSA Orbit MX. The latter’s stack height is a little taller-only by 5mm and easily solved by dropping a spacer. When it comes to headsets, stoicism is my default grease-wise. I want the stuff to say put, keep the bearings slick and corrosion-free. Now, the MX is also blessed with seals, which is nice. It’s another reason to avoid lithium or PTFE-based greases since these could cause perishing.  

Some lighter middleweight preps, including Muc-Off Bio Grease and Green Oil Eco grease hold their own surprisingly well, too TWELVE MONTH TEST: GREEN OIL ECO GREASE (sevendaycyclist.com) Flying in the face of this, I found myself pondering Peaty’s Speed Grease PEATY'S SPEED GREASE | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com), for the last word in buttery smooth, friction busting lubrication. Ultimately, I’ve decided treating the bottom race with Juice Lubes Bearing Juice and the upper race with Peaty’s Speed Grease was the best compromise.