Emerging from the Garage

 

A busy week. Having got Meg, the Magic Micra serviced and MOT’d and narrowly avoided acquiring a 1992 Suzuki GS500E project, I sought solace in the garage and continued stripping my fixed gear winter/trainer, cleaning parts before transferring them to the Mulo frameset. Some things were bin fodder, others model specific. The Mulo’s head tube is tapered, 1.5 inches at the base, which wasn’t problematic since I had an integrated Cane Creek cartridge bearing headset and compatible fork that I’d bought for metaphorical pennies a year or so back.

The problem being, I didn’t have a suitable setting tool (rammer, in casual parlance). I didn’t want to purchase another, spending money and wasting time, so headed out to my local mechanic brandishing biscuits. They kindly set the crown race down, while I was doing a Tour De Morrisons and I returned the favour with a twin pack of chocolate digestives.

I returned and began building the frameset, having applied helicopter tape and old inner tube to select areas, coupled with liberal helpings of waxy corrosion inhibitor within the frame’s inner sanctum and allowing it 24 hours to cure. Liberal helpings of Juice Lubes Bearing Juice to the bearings, a lighter application to the crown race. Elsewhere, I opted for Oxford Mint Assembly Grease Oxford Mint Assembly Grease | cycling-not-racing since it’s a sturdy, carbon compatible blend.

Everything came together surprisingly easily, save for a schoolboy error-me mounting the new ring inboard of the crank spider, bring everything flush against the chainstay. An easy fix but consumed some time. Wheels and chain followed- I’d gone for the 40mm Continental Pure Contact since clearances allowed.

I’d opted for the beefy Izumi 410 and the 17tooth Halo sprocket means a gear of 69inches. Easily tensioned, I fitted the Gravel Hugger guards, then the Topeak Super Tourist DX 2.0 Topeak Uni SuperTourist 2.0 NonDisc Rack | cycling-not-racing- a light coating of Oxford Mint Assembly Grease on the treads and forming a seal so the elements couldn’t sneak past and cause mischief.  I decided to call it a day, popped the Mulo away. I revisited with fresh eyes two mornings later.                     

Some Leatt SPD arrived for testing but for the time being, I'm sticking with the ultra-dependable and long serving Shimano M540, switching the Leatt between Denise and Ursula to assess their mud shedding trail capabilities first.  The Leatt Endurance 6.0 are intended at cross country mountain bike and gravel audiences and have a reassuringly high specification. 6061T6 aluminium alloy bodies (shot peened to prevent stress fractures turn on cro-moly axles) and more interestingly, a LSL self-lubricating bushing, a needle bearing, and an industrial roller bearing. Quad seals promise to keep the grease in and elements out. Stainless steel bindings and Shimano pattern cleats continue the durable narrative.   

On the topic of mud, I continue to be impressed by the CST Patrol, which though not the lightest of cross-country rubber, seem to perform consistently well across a broad range of conditions, while proving highly puncture resistant. No punctures to date.

Loosely comparable with Continental Cross King- another cross-country design with quick rolling charms and modest weight but in my experience, prone to flats-flints and hedge clippings specifically. Continental have sent me the latest versions, which now feature the brands black chili technology. This is a sophisticated polymer promising to improve grip, rolling resistance and wear. It will be interesting to see how they compare with the CST Patrol, particularly on the reliability front. The Continental sport a similar tread pattern and also feature a fibrous puncture repelling weave beneath the belt.

Staying with puncture resistance, I’ve experienced two pinhole flats over the course of two consecutive rides with the rear Pirelli Cinturato, leading me to switch the rear for Maxxis Ravager Maxxis Ravager TR Tyres | cycling-not-racing Thankfully the tubes only succumbed to a tiny pin-prick, so easily patched and returned to the Zefal Adventure R11 ZEFAL ADVENTURE R11 WATERPROOF SADDLEBAG | cycling-not-racing . The Muc-Off Airmach Mini Inflator Muc-Off Airmach Electric Inflator Pro | cycling-not-racing has proven an absolute godsend on these occasions, especially since I needed to be back pronto to facilitate a few things.

During this phase, I removed Ursula and Denise’s seat posts, blasted some Supertrol into the seat tubes, added another lick of grease to the posts, refitted, nipping them to 5 and 6nm respectively with the Velo Tool Mini Adjustable Torque Wrench. This also gave opportunity to refine Ursula’s saddle height, raising the Kinetic 2.1 Suspension Seat post KINEKT 2.1 SUSPENSION SEAT POST | cycling-not-racing a further few millimetres.

 

Chopping n’ Changing

 

A brief spell of thaw saw a switch to my fixed gear winter/trainer for some more spirited saunters around the S bends, while saving sensitive derailleur chains from the ravages of gloop, slime, not forgetting the salt monster. After 250miles, it was a filthy fixed, and the Wolf Tooth lube had been licked clean. By this point it received a richly deserved sudsy bucket clean, and the chains gungy side plates were a perfect opportunity to test the Silca Gear wipes.  

These have two sides. A softer one that’s safe on paintwork and similarly delicate surfaces and a grittier, more aggressive texture for cutting through gunk and grime. I was pleasantly surprised by how effectively it stripped the scuzzy chain bare. Obviously, wipes aren’t the most economical way of cleaning drivetrains (or anything else, for that matter) but used sensibly, they can be highly effective and save time- not every change of lube demands the bike(s) get deep cleaned. 

Ordinarily, I’d purge the chain with a degreaser fluid (or bike wash concentrate) before giving the bike a good sudsy bucket wash, typically using a wash n’ wax formula that leaves a protective barrier behind. Foaming blends look more effective, visually, but those which cling to the host surfaces are most effective, breaking the grime down. I’m defaulting to the Peaty’s Link Lube Premium All WeatherPEATY'S LINK LUBE PREMIUM ALL WEATHER | cycling-not-racing across the fleet since its relatively clean and stays put. The temperature tumbled again and momentary temptation to hop on the fixed was immediately tempered by ice.  

Within a few minutes, I was so relieved I’d opted for Ursula. Along the lanes, I spotted a junior road bike- pre/early teen machine, which someone had cut their teeth on and grown out of. It catapulted me back to the spring of 1986 when I picked up my first road bike- a second-hand low rent machine with gas pipe tubing, brush painted in Hammerite by my father.  

Aside from contemporary components and oversized aluminium alloy tubes, the frameset had been repainted in single pack acrylic (rattle can). A relatively tidy job, suggesting some experienced adult guidance. There’s a lot of fun and learning in building a bike from leftover parts. Wonder what they’ve upgraded to...The weather continued to flip flop, and I hopped back aboard the fixed, only to be serenaded by the resplendent and familiar hiss, amplified by flooded roads.  

The WTB ExposureWTB Exposure Road Tubeless Tyre | cycling-not-racing is a supple, quick rolling and engaging tyre but I’ve found it very susceptible to thorns, flints and hedge clippings. A tiny pin prick was easily repaired but I switched to a fresh tube and the 32mm Pirelli Angel DT Urban Pirelli Angel DT Urban Tyre | cycling-not-racing up front.  They’re quicker than their weight and commuter tag might suggest, though the 5mm thick puncture repelling belt has proven very dependable, despite only covering the centre-strip. Reliability is something I prize during the darker months. Aside from the obvious muck, slime and darkness, roads get rougher as the standing water and freezing temperatures cause erosion, holes and similar, which can be rough on rubber.  

I’d also switched the excellent and seemingly bomb-proof Oxford Aqua V20 Single Pannier Oxford Aqua V20 Single Pannier | cycling-not-racing for my 12-year-old Carradice Super C Rack Bag. A classic, seemingly bombproof design which has 13 litres of carrying capacity-ideal for day riding, especially since I’ve got the Oxford Aqua Bar Bag up front.  

Staying with Oxford, they’ve sent me this rather nice Torque R10 mini ratchet. A slight deviation from traditional multi-tools. The wrench is made from 6140 steel, T25 Torx, 2, 2.5, 3, 4, 5, 6 and 8mm bits are made from S2 steel. It also features Chrome Vanadium Steel adapters (1 ¼ sockets and bit) and two nylon tyre levers. The 1 ¼ sockets mean there’s plenty of choice, so you can build a custom toolkit for different bikes/to suit.  S2 steels are shock resistant and apparently, particularly suitable for socket type tools. Primarily a carbon steel alloy, it also features elements of chromium, molybdenum and vanadium.  

It's also used in the Feedback Sports Reflex Torque Bit Driver, which I've become increasingly attached to, these past few weeks. Elsewhere, though the days are getting very slightly longer, lights are still high on the agenda.  

I’ve been sent this Magicshine Allty 400 front Bike Light. Lower output than I’d usually gravitate to. However, thanks to improvements in diodes, lenses and optical quality generally, lumens alone are not the only deciders. My feeling is it will serve me best as a dynamo companion, but real-world miles may say different.  

 

Critical Thinking & The Sentimental Season

 

Why aren't you at work??? Well, I am at work thank you very much. I work 70hours per week, just a very different schedule to some. Cycling journalism and product testing are not my only professions, but ones I am particularly passionate about. I wrote my first magazine feature for a national cycling title, aged 14, back in 1988- a test of a Muddy Fox Courier Mountain bike.  

I am highly experienced in several riding genres, but don’t profess to be expert, let alone an oracle. Those that genuinely are, carry themselves with a matter-of-fact humility. There is always something new to learn, concepts to understand, even if not necessarily embraced. I am similarly passionate about photography-models, street and industrial, specifically. Models & Portraiture - Stenning Photographic Model & Portraiture Photography Continuous development and lifelong learning are imperative, otherwise stagnation and regression set in. 

Back to 1989 and I bought my first track pump to counter frequent punctures, tyre wear and loss of wheel truth courtesy of under inflated tyres. Workshop pumps are one of those investments that will repay their investment countless times, even the budget models. The track pump in question was an orange Silca, capable of delivering 200psi- not that I’d ever needed that-120psi was pretty much my ceiling and it was best suited to road biased rubber.  

Sure, I’d raise a pancake flat 26x1.95 to 50psi and faster than mini/hand pumps of that era. However, best for high pressure, rather than high volume. Mine came with me to London and was eventually gifted to my favourite bike dealer when I bought an upgraded replacement in the autumn of 1998.  

I wanted to give it a loving home, albeit as a second/workshop spare. Having learned of my fondness, some might say nostalgia, their UK importer sent me this beautiful, contemporary Silca Terra- £139 at full rrp and a thing of beauty, from the hand lathed ash (wood) handle with hose-guide, and 76mm (3 inch) gauge.  

Unlike my original Silca, the barrel and handle are made from aluminium. There’s a reversable Presta/Schrader valve chuck with a bleed button in case you’ve got a bit carried away. Once upon a time, track pump gauges were notorious for having passing affinity with reality, now (particularly with digital gauges) things are within 1psi or so. I’ll be cross referencing that with my standalone digital gauges. Silca claim the Terra’s analogue unit is precise to within.5 psi at the lower end of the 30-120psi range. This covers most bases with contemporary bikes and tyres. I’ve raised a 26x2.3 tyre from zero to 60psi in 64 strokes.

However, some folks needing higher pressure, will need to look elsewhere. Saddleback also sent me this Feedback Sports Reflex Fixed Torque Bit Driver. It’s designed to be brought along for mid ride rescue, not workshop duties, no bad thing-horses for courses- I wouldn’t want to be lugging a workshop torque wrench in my bike luggage. It is based around the standard ¼" driver, meaning bits are easily acquired, or brought along, meaning you’ve got a custom toolkit for the road.    

Stock, we’ve got 4,5, 6mm and Torx T25 bits, 1 steel 5Nm torque extension. The driver body is a hybrid nylon/steel and the whole kit comes with a limited lifetime warrantee. I’m told the torque is accurate to within +/- 4% for up to 3,000 cycles.  

I was surprised that it took this long for Ursula’s rear mech cable to stretch and shifting go decidedly “off”. Just a matter of slackening the cable, pulling through and snugging down, although I always ensure I’ve a few spares handy before tackling these jobs just in case the inner wire in question decided it was going to implode. This is particularly significant at Christmas, where it’s bound to happen when you’re out of spares and the bike shop’s shut...  

Oh, and that’s the reason you get everything prepped and adjusted before heading out on a tour, reliability ride, or similar endurance event. While checking the fixed’s rack hardware, I found the otherwise superb Genetic chain tugs were impeding the fasteners. Not wanting to stress the fasteners or damage the eyelets I switched to a very discrete set bought as curiosities on Ali Express a year or so back. Solved the issue and hopefully they’ll do a decent enough job of holding chain tension.  

I’d been sent this Beam Corkey Premium Review Mirror a few weeks back and had my curiosity spiked when I saw a homage on one of the auction sites, or rather, the site bots brought it to my attention (along with 1500 inflatable pleasure dolls). “The W’EST Biking” version is breathtakingly similar, albeit noticeably heavier, refuting suggestions of “badge engineering”. I’ll close here with Steve’s review of the Ravemen FR300https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/ravemen-fr300-daytime-running-light