Mysteries...

 Playing a waiting game when it comes to hubs and teeth at present, although the latter is booked in for November, while the embers of a National Health Service remain. I’ll just be known as Meth Lab Mikey for the interim period. Credit to Ison DistributionWelcome to Ison Distribution | Ison Distribution (ison-distribution.com), they’ve sent me a replacement SL9. Next job is to drop hoop and hub with Mick Madgett. I’m sticking with the existing Evaura rim since it’s in good shape and given the UK’s economic climate, I’ll be using what I have, wherever appropriate. 

I dropped by Maldon Shot Blasting & Powder Coating since I was in the area and happened upon this Dawes frame. At first glance, I thought it was a Dawes Edge-a high-end early 90s mountain bike built from Reynolds 531 Magnum tubing, but then I spotted the downtube gear lever bosses and the geometry...Maybe their One Down, a mountain bike frameset built for drop bars and with the full complement of touring braze-ons? 

However, it didn’t employ the “guitar string” cable guides typical of mountain bikes and there’s also a pump peg, which screams traditional road tourer. From memory and indeed, photographs, the One Down was TIG welded, not lugged and brazed.  Wish I’d taken the frame number now, but still.  

The more I reflect, the frame size and configuration shout tourer from this era and the 3rd bottle mount had possibly been added later down the line, coinciding with a re-spray. It certainly wasn’t a sibling to this Dawes they kindly refinished for me, back in 2018 GRAVEL BIKE ON A BUDGET: PART ONE (sevendaycyclist.com) 

The Dawes One Down and to a lesser extent, the Sadar follow a remarkably similar narrative to Ursula, and I really loved Dawes’ take on the rough stuff narrative during the late 90s. Both machines fired my imaginations to the point I would’ve bought either, had I not literally just built Ursula. Everything on the Dawes was right, off the peg, although I would doubtless have gone for a hub dynamo, upgraded the transmission etc, as components wore out.  

The frameset would also have been refinished by now, so in some respects, not much to choose pricewise between these complete builds and Ursula some 23 years hence. Ursula: The Never-Ending Story | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) Fear not my tubby tourer, if you’re reading this, we are staying wedded.  

Later versions of the steel Strada also boasted disc brake mounts, although it was sadly replaced by an aluminium framed, flat bar incarnation in 2007. More town bike cum towpath cruiser than tubby tourer-it was hefty, too. 

A wetter, cooler autumnal progression confirms that, despite not being the sleekest aesthetic, the front Blumels Shiny mudguard SKS BLUEMELS SHINY MUDGUARDS | cycling, but not ususally racing (sevendaycyclist.com) remains highly effective at protecting rider and machine from wet, mucky stuff thrown up by the front wheel. Lights are mandatory on my morning outings- dynamo and potent blinkies at the rear.  

I was stunned to discover the Ravemen CLO6 USB Rechargeable Lightweight Sensored Rear Light RAVEMEN CL06 SENSORED REAR LIGHT | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) has mysteriously expired. Luckily, I had the Kranx Strix 100 Kranx Strix 100 USB Rear Light | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) playing backing singer, so I just engaged the 50-lumen flash and carried on.  

Strange since the CLO6 is exceptionally reliable and I was convinced it was fully charged, before heading out. It's since received a full charge and behaving impeccably once more. One of those things, that can strike seemingly without reason. The Kranx Shard 100 USB Rear LightKranx Shard 100 USB Rear Light | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) also made a positive impression on Steve. 

Not to be outdone, my fixed fear winter/trainer’s handlebar mount suddenly imploded mid-ride, sending the long-serving Geonaute G-Eye 2 clattering to the tarmac. Mercifully, it seems unharmed. Thoughts were toward another Minoura mount, like that adorning Ursula’s bars.  

However, it’s been discontinued and while those I’ve spotted were around the £25-mark, £50 postage renders them uneconomic.

I spotted a composite homage on an auction site-£6, so could be bargain or bin fodder but at that price, a gamble I’m prepared to take. This also prompted a more general, fastener and cable tie inspection- I wasn’t surprised (yet still relieved) to find all well, but this serves to illustrate the importance of regular inspection. Things can still fail unexpectedly and without warning...

Cranksets & Calculations

The Deore Crankset arrived and with a 32tooth front ring and 12-28 cassette, gives a range between 29.4 and 69.44 inches. A little low at the upper end for tarmac terrorism and catching riders, but plenty of torque for trailer towing and gravel stuff.  

Ideally, I’d be looking towards something in the high 70s. Will stick with it for now, unless a suitable, closer spaced option presents. 11-25 would give 33.0-74.9, which is arguably a better option. I took this opportunity to replace the chain and deep clean the drivetrain, since the existing KMC had done 1,000 plus. Besides there’s no sense in prematurely wearing cassette and new ring. I also noted that, despite the nickel finish and being fed wet lubes, it had become quite stiff and showed the ominous orange taint.   

Wintry conditions largely gone and while waiting for the new crankset, I whipped the Univega’s wheels out, given the frameset a more thorough waxing of its intimate areas and switched to the Schwalbe Billy Bonkers.

  

This also presented the ideal opportunity to give banish the congealed gloop, clinging to the cassette and Sun Race derailleur’s jockey wheels, using this Squirt Bike Cleaner Concentrate. Thankfully, the oily residue had done a good job of preserving the finish, so no call for the M16 Ride & shine M16 RIDE & SHINE | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) 

I’ve been getting the miles in on the fixed. Switching the Schwalbe Marathon Plus for the 42mm Continental Contact was a sensible move and I ordered replacement ceramic pads for its TRP Spyre stopper, so they’re in stock, when replacement’s next due.  

The Zefal Z11 bag is proving a very useful addition. Minimal sway (which is unusual for the bigger models, especially those tethering to the post via a single strap). The larger breed also doubles as a decent mudguard, protecting saddles and buttocks from cold, wet, slimy stuff.  

On the theme of transmissions, I’d returned from a ride, intending to simply tweak the chain tension, when I discovered some issues with the Fix-G HALO FIX G TRACK HUB | Seven Day Cyclist Tourin Tests Commuting side of the hub. Horsef*ckers! No matter, I switched back to the Aerorage wheel, until I’ve time to assess things properly.  

Oh well, might as well, give the transmission a good blitz, then feed it Squirt Low-Temperature Wax Chain Lube. Talking of the concentrate, this can be applied neat, as a degreaser, or diluted to make a bike wash.  

I’ve decanted neat into a chain cleaner receptacle, a 30/70 concentrate/water mix as a winter weight/early season bike wash. Like many concentrates, it can be applied to (a) the drivetrain via brush/chain bath, left for a few minutes, then agitated and rinsed. Or (b) poured over parts and left marinating for a few hours/overnight. This version pours easily in cold weather-noticeably so, compared with its otherwise impressive standard counterpart. SQUIRT LONG LASTING DRY CHAIN LUBE | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com)  

Wax formulas aren’t the obvious choice for cold, wintry conditions. Indeed, I would reserve most for spring/summer. However, this low-temperature blend stoked my curiosity. Similarly, while wet lubes are the obvious default for wet/wintry conditions, they can also attract a fair bit of gunk.  

Purging this regularly (as you should) can be a tedious chore. Ignore it and there’s a very real risk of it grinding through expensive rings, cassettes, derailleur jockey wheels (and even cages). Waxy types require longer curing times but will simply scab off when leaden with contaminants. 

No need to scrub, or clean, just apply another layer and leave to cure.   

As the photos illustrate, I’ve gone this route with Ursula’s new chain, since I was there.  Also switched back to the Ravemen CLO6 Sensored Rear Light.RAVEMEN CL06 SENSORED REAR LIGHT | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) Fancied a formative “shakedown” blast to see how the new drivetrain components behaved and its CLO5 counterpart needed a charge.