Washed, Waxed & Revisited

 

250 very wet miles later and I wasn’t surprised by the subtle metal-on-metal tinkling of Ursula’s KMC chain. Closer inspection revealed some obvious orange patina along the inner side plates. Good for a wax lube in these contexts but confirmed my suspicions that while relatively stoical, the oil part wasn’t going to hinder corrosion in the way a similarly sophisticated petrochemical chain lube will.  

Given constant exposure to waterlogged, wet, greasy roads, Ursula was beginning to look a little sullied. Not sufficient for a sudsy bucket wash but needing more than a furniture polish blow-over. Hmm, let’s see how this Motoverde Waterless Wash & Wax bridges the gap I mused. This blend has carnauba wax, which is a popular choice in automotive formulas, thanks to its stoical, glossy results and it’s safe on all finishes.  

Given the relatively small surface areas, I’ve applied ours via a micro-fibre cloth, rather than trigger spray, to avoid wastage. Simply give the bottle a good shake, pour, apply sparingly to the frameset and components, leave a minute or two, then buff to a sheen with a fresh (ideally micro-fibre) cloth.  

Their main advantage over silicone-infused products (which add a great sheen and will lightly nourish elastomers, seals and other rubberised/ plastics) is that waxes of this type won’t attract dirt. Silicones leave a very slight film behind, which is helpful but rather like PTFE sprays encourage filmy stuff to become embedded in the surface. Again, welcome as a protective masking agent on working bikes/winter trainers with electroplated and polished aluminium alloys, since grime will stick and mothball them. 

Waterless cleaners are minimal mess, minimal faff and some, including Motoverde’s will keep UV, salts and similar corrosive elements at bay into the bargain. Obviously, waterless cleaners are for light to moderate grime. Cyclo cross style grot, like that adorning my fixed gear winter/trainer will require bike washes/warm buckets of wash n’ wax, sponges and brush (es).

250 miles in and I'm also pleasantly surprised by the Smanie GT saddle. 

 

137mm wouldn’t be a compatibility surprise on the Holdsworth and yes, a few millimetres shy of a designated ideal might make negligible difference but there is a fine line between something not fitting, not functioning correctly and indeed, failing. (Those seat collars being prime examples- 4nms, not a fraction more).  

Point of this preamble? Well, I wasn’t expecting it to work so well on Ursula-on and indeed off-road. One of the main attributes of the GT is that it’s designed to hold the rider at the most efficient point-for folks that like to get and stay in the zone, so not a shuffler's saddle.  

I’ve also noticed a slightly quicker cadence, though no loss of support to the ischial tuberoses (sit bones), let alone soreness/chafing. That said; Ursula and I also got along very well with The Selle Italia Sport Gel Flow FEC-Alloy saddle, which is relatively short (270mm) and narrow (140mm).  

FEC (lower rent hollow steel) rails put the weight up a bit too-330g, which is light, compared with a traditional leather saddle. even those with titanium rails, such as the Spa cycles Aire. This, loosely speaking, is a Brooks Swift homage which my derriere has spent many thousands of miles on.  

Another product that I’ve spent many miles with is Kinekt suspension Stem Kinekt Suspension Stem 90mm | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com). It’s heavier than some and may be a little too reactive for some tastes, but the parallelogram design is well engineered, doesn’t change reach, or geometry and though minimal maintenance, is easy to work on/adjust when needed.  

Chains are something I keep a close eye on. Not to the point of becoming a bore, neurotic, or borderline obsessional, I’m talking a quick weekly inspection using the humble nickel-plated chain checker, which can be picked up for a few quid.  

Inspection and prompt replacement prevent more costly wear-rings, derailleurs and cassettes being the obvious casualties. These also need periodic inspection. As a rough n’ ready rule, I replace cassettes every third chain-at least on bikes in four seasons’ service.  

Chain whips are the most common means of wrestling the cassette into submission while freeing the lockring. Functional enough, Pedros Vise Grip changed my cassette-swapping life- an end to slippage, grazed knuckles and agricultural outpourings. One of those tools (along with my headset press) that I never loan.  

Then along came Feedback sports offering me their Cassette Pliers. These work to the same principle as the Pedros, so it’ll be interesting to see if they’re any different, dare I say, more refined. Pedros set the bar very high.  Feedback also has a rather nice three-in-one bottom bracket and lockring tool, which has the ends welded in situ, so the splined cassette/centre lock bit can’t get lost or come adrift.  

I don’t change cassettes too often (or disc rotors, for that matter), so the little cyclo does the job well enough. However, it can struggle a bit on stubborn, weathered examples... Ending on a different note, if you want to keep your carbon happy, Peaty’s Max Grip Carbon Assembly Paste Peaty’s Max Grip Carbon Assembly Paste | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) has proved an excellent default.   

Boiled Bearings & Brake Lights

 I’d been concerned about the Halo Evaura/SP SL9 HALO EVURA & SHUTTER PRECISION SL9 DYNOHUB BUILD (sevendaycyclist.com) hoop- there's been some disc rub and I initially believed this attributable to a slight loss of truth- either the rim or less likely, the Swiss Stop Catalyst Disc Rotor Swiss Stop Catalyst Disc Rotor | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com). I’d ruled out the other possibility-broken axle, or skewer. The latter sheared unexpectedly but thankfully, while I was inspecting things from the comfort of home, not ten miles out.  

A trip to Mick Madgett confirmed the SL9’s bearings were cooked. Hub issues had crossed my mind-I’d done approximately 20,000miles and four winters, so not wholly unexpected. Its PD8 cousin HALO CLASSIC RIM & SHUTTER PRECISION DYNOHUB DISC WHEEL BUILD (sevendaycyclist.com) needed overhaul last year, which wasn’t an overly complex, or fraught process. Send it off to Ison Distribution (Their UK importer) pay a small fee and it’ll come back from the factory, serviced and ready to be built into a wheel. 

 

Continuing the lighting theme, I’ve been forming stronger opinions regarding the Kranx Strix 100 and Ravemen TR500 rear lights. The former has surprised, impressed me with its output and presence, across the board. I’d be happiest running it on a best bike-for extended late summer/early autumn evening outings where you need a decent light to get home with. Or as a backing singer to a dynamo/main light during winter. 

 

The TR500 is highly effective and incredibly powerful, though still practical for suburban and town riding in the lower settings. Run times are surprisingly good too, although it does require 5 hrs 45 minutes to fully re/charge. The trick of course, is to charge often.  

Not only for convenience but because it ensures lithium-Ion cells reach their suggested service life. It also features a brake sensor, which its TR300 sibling does not. “Brake” sensors or brake functions are useful but probably best explained/thought of, as slowing sensors.

  

For example, a car or motorcycle brake light engages when the lever, or brake pedal is engaged, which in turn, causes other components to physically engage, switching the light on and off. However, those featured on bicycle lights employ a sensor, which calculates/estimates deceleration. Therefore, it’s likely that they will engage more often, which can affect run times.  

Designs have improved somewhat in recent years- in terms of sensitivity, so you’re not engaging the “brake” light at the slightest loss of momentum on a climb. I’m still very fond of the Xeccon Mars 60 COB Rear Light TESTED: XECCON MARS 60 COB REAR LIGHT (sevendaycyclist.com), which can run in “brake light” only mode. Again, it’s a little on the sensitive side but the large surface area and slightly translucent casing means it’s a good bet for tagalongs/trailers, or as a sleek single, post-mounted light.  

Those on the Ravemen TR500, and Magicshine SeeMee 150 and 200 are easily disengaged, which is thoughtful. Ravemen CLO6 RAVEMEN CL06 SENSORED REAR LIGHT | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) follows this less prescriptive narrative and employs a sensor that picks up approaching vehicle headlamps, intensifying the output accordingly.  

After a period of drought, the rains have come and its welcome on many levels. Wet, greasy and challenging conditions are perfect for evaluating products. Tyres, brakes, chain lubes or clothing are just a few examples. The Specialized Road Sport are continuing to put a grin on my face, although aren’t quite as sprightly as the CST Czar, or Vittoria Rubino Pro but do seem consistently good-even along waterlogged roads.  

Would be interesting to see how their more expensive Road Elite stablemates compare. Interestingly the latter only feature a centre-breaker strip, not one that runs bead to bead. Traditionally this has meant a lighter, faster tyre but on paper at least, more vulnerable to flats, especially during winter. Winter also means more component chewing filth and caustic grot.  

This coupled with shorter days demands a more efficient approach to cleaning and general maintenance WINTER WONDERLAND ONE | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) Bike washes, though not essential can be very helpful when time is short and grime stubborn. Steve’s been putting this Motorex Bike Clean Motorex Bike Clean | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) through its paces and seems quite impressed.