Bosses, BIg Tyres & Brainstorming

 

The eagle-eyed amongst you will have noticed the low-rider mounts on my fixed’s replacement fork blades. I have no use for a low-rider, least of all on carbon blades, so will ponder what (if anything) other purposes they might serve. Feel free to comment.  

For the time being, while I await a few things and battle Sabre Tooth Man-Flu, I’m sticking with the Kinesis DC7 and see no sense in creating more work for its own sake. I’m still putting the CST Pika and Xpedium pairing through their paces and am generally impressed by their blend of dependability, relatively low rolling resistance and surprisingly compliant ride. Particularly when I’ve introduced a TPU tube, such as this Pirelli PIRELLI CENTURATO REINFORCED SMART TUBE (sevendaycyclist.com) .  

Admittedly, most of us would stick to bog standard butyl, especially with the Xpedium but it’s worth noting that a TPU tube brought a livelier persona-most obviously when accelerating and climbing.  These can be patched but it's not something you’d want to chance by the roadside, so bring a couple of butyl spares along, just in case.  

Staying with tyres for now, having tracked the weather forecast for an extended period, I am satisfied now thundersnow, or similarly extreme weather is coming for the foreseeable. Therefore, I’ve switched Ursula to the Maxxis Overdrive Excel, which has a tread pattern reminiscent, but different to the CST Xpedium.  

They're a similar weight too- the 26x2.0 tip my scales at 720g apiece, while the 700x35c CST Xpedium are 715g. However, Overdrive Excel boasts a dual compound for reliability and grip, the Xpedium a single, supposedly for longevity.

Both seem rugged and dependable and will entertain “gravel” type excursions quite convincingly. The last thing I want along a pitch-black road where it’s raining dogs and blowing a gale is a puncture, or similar mechanical.   

Riders something slightly quicker for their winter road bike, might be interested in these Pirelli Cinturato Velo TLR Reflective tyre Pirelli Cinturato Velo TLR Reflective Ty | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) Steve’s been suitably impressed but it’s worth noting they’re a good deal dearer than the CST. 

Even seemingly belt n’ braces models such as Schwalbe’s mighty Marathon GT 365TESTED: SCHWALBE MARATHON GT 365 TYRES WINTER UPDATE (sevendaycyclist.com) can succumb to a nasty sharp. Ursula’s rear had a flint cut through to the puncture-repelling India rubber- their last line of defence. Thankfully, this didn’t result in a flat and I was able to plug the hole with a decent quality superglue, for workable, lasting repair.   

Back to the Maxxis... 

Since I had the rear wheel out, it seemed the ideal opportunity to get the drivetrain surgically clean. I delivered some Green Oil Clean Chain Degreaser Jelly GREEN OIL CLEAN CHAIN DEGREASER JELLY (sevendaycyclist.com) to the KMC chain, ring and jockey wheels, then blasted the cassette with the Motoverde Drivetrain Cleaner Motoverde Drivetrain Cleaner | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) since this was almost spent. After agitating this lot with a stiff brush, I chased the residual, filmy layer away with a quick drop of Green Oil Agent Apple Extreme Immersion Degreaser TESTED: GREE OIL AGENT APPLE EXTREME IMMERSION DEGREASER (sevendaycyclist.com) and rinsed with fresh, tepid water. 

Drivetrain dried and everything reinstated, I treated the rear triangle to some Motoverde Waterless Wash & Wax to seal the shine and keep the elements out.  Muc Off All Weather Chain Lube arrived over Christmas, so was the obvious candidate. This is marketed as a race ready synthetic lubricant, designed to resist water and fling. The four-hour curing time is less convenient than some, but isn’t particularly outlandish, either. I left ours overnight, since circumstances allowed.  

Curiously, for an all-weather blend supposedly capable of standing up “to even the toughest rides”, it's recommended you clean and reapply after riding in wet conditions. Only time and real-world mileage will give proper insight. Winter is sneaky and while components may remain in rude health, given proper care, fasteners can turn furry at the first hint of a puddle. Ursula’s six bolt disc rotor mount and calliper mount hardware was showing signs of orange taint. A drop of Green Oil Wet lube is great for preventing the taint’s progression and unlike a maintenance spray, won’t contaminate rotor, or pads. Finally, for this post, here's my review of the Shimano RX6 Gravel Shoes. Definitely one of my favourite shoes of all time Shimano SH RX600 Gravel Cycling Shoes | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com)  

Minus 6 & Winter Mindfulness

 By UK standards, it’s felt bitterly cold for the past few weeks. The Schwalbe Ice Spiker Pro and their 240-spike Schwalbe Winter Plus counterparts have been making riding through sheet ice and snowy lanes realistic and relatively pleasant.  

I’d resurrected my Vanguard Belgian style cap and lined these laminated, wind and waterproof gloves with the Specialized liners. Even so, the biting cold had been nibbling at my digits, urging me to maintain a brisk tempo, especially on the return leg.  

It’s thawed since, but despite the conditions, Ursula remained surprisingly clean, thanks in no small part to mudguards (fenders to those of you in the US/Canada). Surprising how much difference they make, so if you’re riding in winter, fit them where possible. My expander wedge solution to Ursula’s front guard mounting required some minor revision.

 

Some play had developed, eradicated by adding two 2mm composite Aheadset spacers, providing the top cap with something to lodge against. One from Ursula’s stem-replaced with a blue anodised aluminium example. The other from my small parts pot.    

Clip-on designs have come a long way too, these Mud Hugger  https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/mud-hugger-gravel-hugger-mudgurads are another good bet, if your frameset will not accept, or you want something less permanent, dare I say time-consuming to fit than full-length models. However, there are pre-assembled designs, which are much easier than traditional models to fit. Steve’s been impressed with these Kranx FendR Full Length Mudguards Kranx FendR Full Length Mudguards | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) 

According to the chain checker, the KMC chain remains in rude health and the Wedltite Ceramic held on. Scuzzy side plates encouraged a purge, using Green Oil Clean Chain Degreaser Jelly. I’ve since switched to Wedltite TF2 Performance All Weather Lubricant TF2 PERFORMANCE ALL WEATHER LUBRICANT | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) since it was handy and, in my experience, stoical for an inexpensive lube. No curing times either.  

Indeed, staying with an icy, snow narrative, some 700c builds may only have clearance 700x40c spikes but sans guards. 

The other thing to be mindful of during these harsher, colder days, is bringing bikes into extremes of temperature e.g., from minus 6 to 23-degree kitchen, or utility room, for example. This will cause moisture to build up, especially within metal framesets, fostering corrosion. Frame Saver and Waxoyl certainly mitigate this, but still.  

A few teaspoons (or indeed a syringe full) of gloopy 10w/40 motor oil sloshing around a metal frame’s inner sanctum will also work as a preserve, albeit less effectively. Carbon fibre is quite a conductive material, so ensure to employ a decent, ideally synthetic grease on metal inserts (bottom bracket shells being prime examples) to prevent galvanic corrosion.   

Ironically enough, conditions have thawed a little since I first put fingers to keyboard-I've kept Ursula shodded with spikes but able to enjoy some fun on the fixed, which I shod with the CST Expedium and Pika tyres, just before temperatures plummeted.  Formative impressions are favourable, both are relatively perky and engaging, yet very compliant. Given their width, the Pixar’s puncture-repelling belt only covers the centre strip, so time will tell as to their puncture resistance.   

As I’m always saying, reliability is key to enjoying winter.  After seven years, I’ve been reflecting upon the integrity of the Kinesis DC37 Disc Forks. Now, the lifespan of carbon components (although forks in particular) is hotly debated.  

Without taking the ultrasound thermal imaging inspection route shown here A Visit To Carbon Fibre Bike Repair | Seven Day Cyclist, it’s difficult to comment upon the fork’s integrity and given the variables of age, mileage and potential cost implications of an accident- lost earnings, dental and other bills, I’ve decided replacement is the best move. Given the DC37 is no longer available and tapered steerers increasingly the norm, options were more limited.  

I needed something with disc mounts and preferably mudguard eyes. Didn’t fancy a carbon steerer, nor did I want to risk buying a direct from-manufacturer auction site special. After some thought and hand-wringing, a cyclocross specialist I used to deal with sprung to mind.  

True enough, they had such a model, so after some further reflection, I decided they were the best choice and will fit to coincide with cable replacement, or similar job, no immediate rush. Tyre size is reckoned a little more restrictive than the DC37 but still good for 40mm, so I should be fine.  

Disc braking, though not the only option, has some definite benefits in winter. I’ve decided I’ll upgrade both Ursula and fixed gear winter trainer’s TRP SPYRE SLC to the TRP HYRD hybrid systems-at the right price (and I’ll be holding on to the fully mechanical callipers). Now, as many will point out, most riders go mechanical, or hydraulic. I’d toyed with the fully hydraulic route and there’s a lot to appreciate.  

Set up correctly, they’re pretty maintenance-free, save for pad changes and a spot of generic cleaning. However, bleeding can be a chore and there’s more cost involved- new lever(s) for starters. Though rare, bust a hydraulic hose in the arse end of nowhere is not good news- replacing a cable, is infinitely easier.  

Detractors will comment that any benefit of a hybrid system is offset by its limitations. The TRP HYRD employs a hydraulic reservoir that still requires periodic bleeding and cleaning and without the outright power advantages that full hydraulics offer. Now, the HYRD system has been around for a good while and I got along very well with it on a test bike, ten years back.  

Most hydraulic systems are open these days, meaning that they draw pads closer to the rotor while the Spyres need to be manually tweaked with a 3mm Allen key. Hardly a hardship but a definite plus during a harsh winter, or cyclocross racing. TRP supposedly employs a Bakelite piston to insulate the hydraulics against braking-generated heat. That coupled with my moderate weight, should rule out fade and similar problems, while (theoretically) extending periods between fluid changes. Hmm, we’ll see...