Spring- Sunrise & Strip-downs

  

Yes, inspiration doesn't just strike in the saddle-the small house is another chamber of innovation, and Eureka moments. I discarded the hard-working but progressively deteriorating SKS Blumels Shiny Mudguards SKS BLUEMELS SHINY MUDGUARDS | cycling, but not ususally racing (sevendaycyclist.com), and gave the frameset a deep clean. A good polish and rear wheel switch followed, and I also took delivery of this Mud hugger guard.  

I’d tested their gravel hugger cousins MUD HUGGER GRAVEL HUGGER MUDGURADS | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) and remain impressed with their build quality and coverage. Obviously, protection doesn’t rival that of full length, traditional chrome plastics but it does broaden Ursula’s off-road potential and indeed, tyre choice. I could, for example, run the Schwalbe Ice Spiker Pro albe Ice Spiker Pro Tyres | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) comfortably at the rear.   

Now, look closely and I’ve had to trim the mounts since it was fouling the fork’s cantilever mounts. I initially mounted them with two cable ties each side- a 4.8mm and two slightly thinner OEM. I ultimately switched these for two 7.6mm example for improved, vise-like grip.  

 

The Mud hugger would also allow bigger section, trail-orientated rubber and exploit the machine’s true off-road potential. No rear guard? Mud Hugger are designed as disc-specific, so incompatible with Ursula’s rear triangle.  Traditionally I’ve not taken to clip-on MTB guards, save for the legendary Crud models.  Others have either had an unappealing aesthetic and/or tended to rotate and ultimately, warp and fail.  I have something planned on the tyre front but will leave you guessing for now.  

I was still testing the Weldtite Bike Cleaner Concentrate and was getting a funny feeling about the XT hub’s freehub, so this presented an obvious opportunity to remove and the cassette, strip and inspect the freehub and upgrade the bearings.  

Everything released nicely-not surprising, given I’d not long stripped and re-greased the bearings with Juice Lubes Bearing Grease. The freehub seemed fine-I just wiped with a clean rag and drizzled some Peaty’s Speed Grease PEATY'S SPEED GREASE | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) into the freehub bearings and threaded fastener.  

For the bearings, I went for something a little thicker, but lighter than the Juice Lubes Bearing Juice. Muc-Off Bio Grease TESTED : MUC-OFF BIO GREASE (sevendaycyclist.com) was to hand and in my experience, is reassuringly durable.  

Little and often maintenance is the best way of staying on the road or trails and breakdowns/component failure and costs to a minimum. However, things are a little more nuanced than this. I (and many other riders) run two sets of wheels on their daily drivers/working bikes, meaning I can switch while I service and to a greater extent take more time, should components require replacement, or similar service staller strike.  

Similarly, there is a point where the convenience, economy and satisfaction of working on our machines (be they bicycles, motorcycles, cars, boats etc) can tip over into an all-consuming orgy of continuous improvement. Time, other duties all evaporate in the quest to metaphorically (and sometimes literally) “tune beyond perfection”. That’s fun and resonates very deeply with me. However, when it comes to everyday maintenance and overhaul, tasks are best confined to certain, disciplined timescales.   

Plan ahead, be organised, have the correct tools to hand and quit while you’re genuinely ahead. Maintenance courses can be a sensible investment if you’re a beginner, or just looking to improve. There’s always something to learn and skilled instructors to guide and inspire confidence.   

Conditions have felt a little more spring-like, not that I’ve brought out the ¾ lengths and lightweight, long-sleeve jerseys just yet. I have regrettably had to pension off the Altura Night Vision Waterproof Gloves, which had done around 35,000miles (about 56327.04 km) over the last 5 years.  

Again, with heavy heart, I also consigned a pair of the brands’ bib tights to the bin. The pad was past its prime and the Lycra was also showing signs of abrasion damage, so thanked and read their last rites. Talking of reading, here’s a guide to the river Rhone Cycle Route THE RIVER RHONE CYCLE ROUTE GUIDE REVIEW (sevendaycyclist.com)  

 

That'll Be A New Set Of Bearings, Then...

No matter how well you maintain things, stuff wears out-at least that’s how I’m consoling myself. A matter of weeks since I replaced the Halo Fix-G hub’s cartridge bearings, the Shutter Precision PD8 HALO CLASSIC RIM & SHUTTER PRECISION DYNOHUB DISC WHEEL BUILD (sevendaycyclist.com) has succumbed to the dreaded bearing slop. Both have managed four years, year-round service before getting the grumbles. Ursula’s Shimano Ultegra remains in rude health almost a decade down the line and exposed to similar conditions. I should stress that I swerve jet washes and any other seal-breaching nastiness.  

However, while the Fix-G HALO FIX G TRACK HUB | Seven Day Cyclist Tourin Tests Commuting are user-serviceable, the majority of “Ship in a Bottle” dyno hubs must be shipped back to the factory. Thankfully, I have switched to its SL9 cousin. Mercifully, the Shimano centre lock disc rotor was still in rude health, although it seemed a little thicker than the six-bolt Spyre. This just meant winding the pads out very slightly, and I took this opportunity to double-check the caliper’s alignment- be rude not to.    

Stuff wears out, eventually, even if you care for it. However, it always seems to strike at the least convenient time. I like to think myself stoic and pragmatic, but I'll confess the past two years have been quite taxing. A seemingly relentless pandemic coupled with the freefall induced by a popularist puppet heading the UK’s governing party, which has neutered the UK and is increasingly leaving it isolated.    

Since the 2016 referendum, there’s been a palpable drift towards xenophobia and indeed, the mainstream acceptance of it. Authoritarian popularism is indeed on the rise elsewhere in Europe- it has often lapped at the shorelines of France and Italy’s political landscape. These things never end well, as history documents with terrifying detail.      

 

Several years down the line and I've also noted some minor slop in the Cane Creek SC5 V Brake drop Levers CANE CREEK V BRAKE DROP BAR LEVERS | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) and the anodized finish is also past the first flush of youth, where it can’t be seen, so they’ll stay. Thankfully, I’ve found a right hand Tektro RL520.. These were designed for linear-pull and last employed on Ursula 12 years back. I enjoy a rummage through the spares bin when I turn up something perfect, that I otherwise might have to pay for.   

Wheel and stopping sorted, I tweaked the chain tension (for some bizarre reason, the wheel had also gone off centre), raised the saddle by a few milimetres too. This was all rounded off with a sudsy bucket wash and hard paste waxing to protect painted, anodised and lacquered surfaces from winter’s wrath.   

Lights are generally very reliable these days, but I always run two rear lights (sometimes a third, if it's tethered to luggage) just in case the main unit should go roque and power down in the arse end of nowhere. Cue the Xeccon Mars 60’s sudden shut down.  

Charge life indicator said green before I set out. A waning lithium-ion cell is one explanation, the “Braking” function sapping juice being another. Either way, I had the Ravemen TR30M RAVEMEN TR30M REAR LIGHT | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) clinging to Ursula’s right hand seat stay. Yes, I know, being a dynamo devotee, I really must get a rider powered rear. 

No sign of the impending “artic” blasts proclaimed by the tabloids (presumably as a distraction from the UK’s multiple crisies), so for the time being, the fixed will stick with the Kenda Kwick Journey KS plus KENDA KWICK JOURNEY TYRES | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) /Bontrager and Ursula’s Schwalbe mix n’ match pairing. First hint of abominable snowmen, blizzards etc and I'll switch to the spikes, pronto.  I’m impressed with the Mud Hugger Gravel Hugger Mudguards MUD HUGGER GRAVEL HUGGER MUDGURADS | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com), which are doing a decent job of keeping me dry and keeping the fixed from a decent amount of scuzzy stuff.   

There are plenty of maintenance sprays around these days. Unfortunately, most contain Teflon (PTFE) which, though useful is toxic. It’s widely recognised as being unkind to seals and other rubberised components. However, it’s not good for electricals either. I’ve tended to err towards Vaseline for dynamo contacts but then along came some Motorex Joker Spray. It's essentially a water displacing “lubricant” type similar in design brief to WD40, and Castrol DWF. So far, the formula looks stockier than the iconic and arguably universally recognisable blue can.  

Dynamo connectors aside, I’ve applied some to work stand clamps, lock mechanisms, spark plugs/car electricals, cleat mechanisms. Not 100% sure when it comes to elastomers, such as those common to Cane Creek Thud Buster ST G3 TESTED: CANE CREEK THUDBUSTER ST SEATPOST (sevendaycyclist.com)  and similar suspension posts, so I've opted for the brands’ silicone spray.