Teal Deal

 

The Ryde/XT wheel arrived, meaning I could finish bolting everything together. I couldn’t get the rear CX50 to behave properly, or at least to my tastes, so I quit while ahead and reasoned I’d revisit once other components had bedded in and settled down. The rear wheel, though not dancing the samba, had clearly met the depot destroyers en route to me. A group who, in my experience (having temped in parcel sorting depots) shows contempt for anything labelled “Fragile”. I’ll get it trued at a convenient point 150 miles or so down the line.     

Faithful to the original build brief, I have not spent “fresh” money on the Dawes. Sure, some things, the USE seat post and rear wheel being a case in point were traded but not paid for. There was no need and sometimes, challenges are nice. I didn’t want to deviate from the bike’s clean gravel flavour. I’ve needed to renew the original dynamo wiring but the Exposure Revo came to life with minimal effort.  

I’ve tethered my long serving and distinctly weathered Carradice SQR Tour bag to the post- it'll carry everything I’d need and a bit more, while doubling as a useful mudguard.  I wished I’d slipped the butyl boot over the Dawes’ lower headset race when I had the opportunity, but for now, I’ll go without and see how well the grease holds out against the elements. I’ve gone for the Topeak Redline Aero USB rear light Topeak Redlite Aero USB Rear Light | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com), since its simple, quite potent and super frugal but this is likely to be accompanied by another, clipped to the Carradice-just in case.  

I’ve gone for a new computer- another 9 function Giant and yes, in pink since it was dirt cheap and I’m very secure in my masculinity.  This and maybe a high-power battery light, such as the Sigma Sport Buster HL 2000 SIGMA SPORT BUSTER HL 2000 | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) will be the only definite additions/refinements. I was pleased to find my headset spanners too, since the Stronglight A9 was bound to need snugging down slightly, given a few miles. I’ll probably dig out a 42mm Continental for the rear, once the wheel’s been on the jig.   

I had also decided it was time to dress the Dawes’ chain in the Wolf Tooth All Conditions lube- I’d run the KMC in the factory lube until I’d run it for a couple of outings. Returning from our third outing, having snugged the headset down, I decided shifting was settled sufficiently. I’d had a few things crop up during the first forty miles, specifically the seat post cradle coming loose, causing some irritating rattle and ultimately, saddle movement. 

  

The USE SX post had a reputation for doing this in some circles but having snugged it tight by the roadside (as a kindly e- bike rider stopped to check all was well) I’ve not had any further issues. Having had a hectic few days in the garage, working on the Dawes but also replacing chains, deep cleaning the fixed (paying particular attention to the ENVE bar tape Enve Handlebar Tape | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) and similar maintenance, I wanted to again, stop before I got too carried away and to a point I wasn’t “ahead”.  

 

Therefore, aside from a slight dialling-in of the post’s travel and a liberal blast of Muc-Off Silicon sHine MUC OFF SILICON SHINE POLISH | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) on the internals beneath its boot, I resisted the urge to strip and re-grease. That’s a project for another time and in fairness, the post doesn’t seem hard used, or neglected. Doing so markedly improved the plushness and travel- not unexpected, since Muc-Off recommend it for suspension.  

 

When I do get round to a thorough disassembly, I’ll go for a middleweight synthetic blend, not anything containing PTFE, or lithium. These will knacker expensive composites and rubberised components with frightening ease. Been there and paid the price- with a set of Rock Shox Judy SL, in case you were wondering. 

 

Back to the Dawes, after some slight trepidation, I was relieved to find that my spec, contact points etc. were all a very harmonious mix. 

  

A lot’s changed in thirty odd years, but the Dawes handles very much as I’d hoped. Engaging and quick, yet very predictable. The larger (19 inch) frameset and less aggressively sloping top tube also mean it’s a lot easier to shoulder/carry cyclo cross fashion.  

 

Something to think about, if you’re looking to repurpose and older mountain bike frameset as a cyclo cross, or gravel build. Now, I’m not saying I wouldn’t be interested in riding, or testing a contemporary gravel bike, I’m inclined to say the Dawes has met my design brief with minimal compromise. Yes, I know, I’ll doubtless refine things a little as consumables wear out and suitable test goodies present but no major revisions.         

 

Despite theoretically heading toward the drier months, I’m contemplating mudguards for Ursula. Most now, save for a few exceptions are designed specifically for disc configurations. Not surprising since discs are now the default and I will probably take Ursula the Mudhugger MK2 route this time round, depending of course, whether the cantilever posts are kept post frame surgery.  

Winston says if they’re brazed, he’ll remove them, if they’re TIG welded, he’ll leave them be as they’re trickier to grind smooth. Talking of brazing, here’s my piece about the Holdsworth’s fork column repair Oldie But Goodie: Fork Repair & Revision | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) 

Taken By Surprise FGG

Serendipitous post ride inspection revealed some minor structural issues with Ursula- nothing a good frame builder couldn’t repair economically. A few phone calls later and Winston Vaz Varohna Frameworks - Varonha Frameworks provisionally agreed to do the work. Having seen a photograph of the affected area, he agreed to undertake repair and we also discussed modernisation and alteration. Afterall, we’d be talking new paint... 

I’ve decided to have a disc mount added and perhaps a few little tweaks to the cable run but we’ll see what Winston feels best, nearer the time.  I’ve stripped the frame down to headset and bottom bracket and will remove these just before I’m ready to send to him.   

Meantime, I’ve woken the Dawes Edge from its slumber and into service...   

While I was bolting everything together, I’d reached a point where I couldn’t wire up the rear mech for want of an inner cable, so I then stopped and found myself fitting wheels. Last time I offered a set of Ursula’s they appeared to fit but I hadn’t fitted the cantilevers. This time, with the Shimano CX cantilevers in situ, it became plain that I was misguided. 700c all the way...  

 

Not a major issue but meant I needed a rear, 700c wheel. I found one from a respected dealer- three cross to an XT hub. I’m a firm believer in recycling good kit and not spending money unnecessarily, provided things are fit for the intended purpose. Cosmetics are one thing- the odd, minor scratch in some anodising isn’t going to cause me distress but a hub about to blow its guts is not a sound investment.  

 

Rubber wise, I had a root around and went for a 38mm (about 1.5 in) Specialized Crossroads and a 37 mm (about 1.5 in) Continental Contact Plus, which seemed a suitable and dependable pairing. I’ve a bigger, 42mm section somewhere and will probably take this route at the rear, 37 up front in due course.  

 

I gave a relatively low mileage 12-25 cassette a liberal blast of degreaser and seriously good scrub to purge the existing waxy petrochemical gunge. From grotty to respectable in five minutes and I’m including warm water rinsing.  I fitted the chain but couldn’t fully connect the magic links securely but thankfully, the sleeping hub held everything nicely together, meantime. Since I was tackling chains, I replaced my fixed gear winter/trainer’s as it was now essentially bin fodder. Out of interest, does anyone use the magic links on a fixed? My concern is they’d brake under the increased load...   

 

Before I change tack, here’s my review of the Muc-Off Bicycle Chain Brush Muc-Off Bicycle Chain Brush | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) 

 

Then of course, there’s the bike cleaner concentrate binge. I tend to buy concentrates, leaving them stock for degreasing duties and making a couple of custom strengths for cleaning bikes. Typically, the bog standard 100ml/900ml water for lightly soiled bikes and a 200ml/800ml water mix for winter’s grot and to a lesser extent, mountain biking/similarly boggy stuff.  

 

Now, the thing to remember is that you stray from the manufacturer's guidelines/directions at your own risk. These strengths, at least with well-known brands haven’t left streaks, dulled finishes, or dried out composite/rubber components, such as seals when rinsed properly but I’ve seen (and used) what are essentially patio cleaners re-branded as bike washes/degreasers.  

 

They’re cheap and fine on cassettes and really soiled rings and similar but I’ve not left anything anodised, or painted marinating too long. Even in dilute, bike wash forms, I’ve never left lingering and they’re quite prone to streaking.   

 

Talking of cassettes, I’m considering going over to a 12-28 with Ursula and renewing the Tiagra mech for a medium cage counterpart, or possibly even a longer cage Microshift model, although that’s a bit OTT for my needs and a longer arm runs the risk of getting caught on something.  

 

Takes me back to the late 80s when people were whizzing around on the lowest gears possible, the cage and jockey wheels hovering millimetres away from the tarmac. At the other extreme, during 1990 and 1991 there was a short-lived trend for sticking short cage road mechs on mountain bikes. Sure, shifts were snappier, but they weren’t designed with trail duties in mind, breakages being similarly common. 

 

Continuing the gravel/off road theme, Extra UK Extra UK have sent me this Ergon All Road Men’s saddle. It has a slightly flat profile and bucks the short nose trend. Beneath the waterproof, faux leather cover we have “orthopaedic comfort foam”, which conjures up images of high-end mattresses but is designed to provide optimal support without feeling like a loaf of bread. The base is a nylon composite, and this is neatly tethered to hollow Cro-Moly rails.  

 

Hardly exotic perhaps and explains why it tips the scales at 350g. Cro-moly rails require a decent coat of paint, which seems the case here. Superficially well executed and noticeable, only in the most positive sense but proof's in the long haul sitting.  

 

Being a gender specific design there’s a male specific channel. I’ve been quite fortunate with some unisex, date I say neutral patterns, the Ritchey WCS Cabrillo being a prime example. More curious was the cut out...Might this be to protect me from reverb when unleashing an epic fart?  For the time being, it’ll serve on my fixed gear winter/trainer and in time, a couple of hundred miles, I’ll port it over to the Dawes.   

 

A couple of changeable months and many miles hence, I’ve reached my conclusions about the Blub Ceramic Lube Blub Ceramic Chain Lube | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) and while I’m still testing its wax counterpart, there are some definite similarities between the two, which I believe may be attributable to the ceramic particles. Both assume a wet consistency when the temperatures drop below the early teens.  

 

In this context, both also transfer quite readily to hands and other surfaces, although mud, grit and grime appear to lodge within the outer layer and doesn’t evolve into the drivetrain chomping grinding paste some wet formulas do.