Rubber Up. The Man Who Fell to Earth

 

No sooner had the snow fallen, temperatures rocketed, inducing a rapid thaw. Howling winds and torrential rain followed. Perfect conditions for switching from Ursula to Denise for some more, foul weather testing of the Wolf Tooth Supple Bar Tape and Lomo 13 litre Bikepacking Seat pack. Or so I thought. However, this is a cautionary tale regarding thermometers and internet weather forecasts. According to my devices, it hadn’t hit zero overnight. A few miles into the ride, I entered a bend and hit a stretch of sheet ice, taking us “rubber up”.  

Mercifully, nothing more serious than damaged Lycra and a trashed right hand RL520 lever. Having returned from the 15-mile loop, I wasted no time ordering a replacement pair, since I only had a couple of left-handed Tektro in the spares box. £20 all told but I could’ve done without it, especially given the time of year.  I’d also toyed with going the retro, non-aero route.  

On the one hand, this would make for easier cable replacement but would also mean unnecessary outlay. I’m not paying retro prices either (although suspect I may have a set of Campagnolo Athena that are reversible-new hoods are all I’d need). I’d also seen some Dia Compe 204 with integral quick release for £28.   

These good ideas cum rabbit holes can prove time consuming and ultimately, uneconomic.  Besides, effective repair was simply a question of undoing the inner wire, peeling back the bar tape and removing the broken lever, salvaging hoods and other parts as spares.    

I’d been on plenty of soggy outings with the Lomo and found it highly weather resistant but while the 5mm Wolf Tooth Supple Bar Tape has proven incredibly effective at isolating against road and trail buzz, I hadn’t been able to assess its wet weather prowess.  

I wasn’t surprised to discover, like most silicones grip and tenure are superb. Leach-like, but without the “gripping flypaper” sensation. Obviously, gloves with silicone imprinted palms are the ideal marriage, but traditional palms-synthetic, or leather come a close second.  

I’m also forming the conclusion that while offering excellent damping properties, without unduly muting connection, being 5mm thick, it could prove too bulky for smaller hands. As the photo illustrates, it also survived our tumble with terra firma completely unscathed.   

The wet, wintry conditions had finally licked Denise’s chain clean, so I went the full blown, bars to tyres deep clean route, stripping the residual WTB, degreasing and drying before reaching for the Peaty’s Link Lube Premium All Weather PEATY'S LINK LUBE PREMIUM ALL WEATHER | cycling-not-racing   

Staying with contact points, I read a comment recently regarding quill to Ahead converters and specifically, why people still use them. Sure, they can seize if not greased properly and the guest stem needs to be snugged very tight but they’re also a very inexpensive way of running a modern stem on an older bike.   

Denise Gravel on A Dustbowl Budget PT V Lesson | cycling-not-racing sports one and thus far, its proving dependable. Admittedly, I have used a suitably stiff grease- Oxford Mint Assembly Grease Oxford Mint Assembly Grease | cycling-not-racing and check it periodically to ensure nothing’s turning arthritic. Judging by the pedal threads and fasteners, it’s both highly water and wash-off resistant.   

Having the steerer tube cut and replaced a ’la the Holdsworth Oldie But Goodie: Fork Repair & Revision | cycling-not-racing is arguably a more reliable method but will require a compatible Aheadset, which are getting trickier to find. Unlike replacing the fork steerer, there’s no risk of cracking the fork crown and paint stands a sporting chance of remaining intact too. Other folks will cite period authenticity, and I can also empathise with this school. However, in the latter context, it's easily reversed.  

Talking of bulk, while I’m fond of the Lomo, for everyday duties, I’m drawn to something smaller. A quick rummage in the rafters unearthed this Zefal Adventure R11 Waterproof Saddlebag ZEFAL ADVENTURE R11 WATERPROOF SADDLEBAG | cycling-not-racing, which is surprisingly rigid and sway-free, despite employing a single Velcro post strap. No issues with fouling the seat post since the USE SX’s bouncy bits are neatly tucked away inside.  

The Passport Bike Packing Seat Pack PASSPORT CYCLES BIKEPACKING SEAT PACK | cycling-not-racing is likely to make a return, and it should also play nicely with the USE SX seat post, but Topeak’s UK importer has sent me the brand’s  Backloader Wishbone.  

It has a maximum payload of 2kilos, so not quite a panacea, but looks much better engineered than the auction site special (although arguably it should be, being three times the homage’s ticket price). Will be interesting to see how much well it tames sway with the 6litre back loader Topeak Back Loader Seat Pack | cycling-not-racing and indeed, some bigger models.  

Teal Deal

 

The Ryde/XT wheel arrived, meaning I could finish bolting everything together. I couldn’t get the rear CX50 to behave properly, or at least to my tastes, so I quit while ahead and reasoned I’d revisit once other components had bedded in and settled down. The rear wheel, though not dancing the samba, had clearly met the depot destroyers en route to me. A group who, in my experience (having temped in parcel sorting depots) shows contempt for anything labelled “Fragile”. I’ll get it trued at a convenient point 150 miles or so down the line.     

Faithful to the original build brief, I have not spent “fresh” money on the Dawes. Sure, some things, the USE seat post and rear wheel being a case in point were traded but not paid for. There was no need and sometimes, challenges are nice. I didn’t want to deviate from the bike’s clean gravel flavour. I’ve needed to renew the original dynamo wiring but the Exposure Revo came to life with minimal effort.  

I’ve tethered my long serving and distinctly weathered Carradice SQR Tour bag to the post- it'll carry everything I’d need and a bit more, while doubling as a useful mudguard.  I wished I’d slipped the butyl boot over the Dawes’ lower headset race when I had the opportunity, but for now, I’ll go without and see how well the grease holds out against the elements. I’ve gone for the Topeak Redline Aero USB rear light Topeak Redlite Aero USB Rear Light | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com), since its simple, quite potent and super frugal but this is likely to be accompanied by another, clipped to the Carradice-just in case.  

I’ve gone for a new computer- another 9 function Giant and yes, in pink since it was dirt cheap and I’m very secure in my masculinity.  This and maybe a high-power battery light, such as the Sigma Sport Buster HL 2000 SIGMA SPORT BUSTER HL 2000 | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) will be the only definite additions/refinements. I was pleased to find my headset spanners too, since the Stronglight A9 was bound to need snugging down slightly, given a few miles. I’ll probably dig out a 42mm Continental for the rear, once the wheel’s been on the jig.   

I had also decided it was time to dress the Dawes’ chain in the Wolf Tooth All Conditions lube- I’d run the KMC in the factory lube until I’d run it for a couple of outings. Returning from our third outing, having snugged the headset down, I decided shifting was settled sufficiently. I’d had a few things crop up during the first forty miles, specifically the seat post cradle coming loose, causing some irritating rattle and ultimately, saddle movement. 

  

The USE SX post had a reputation for doing this in some circles but having snugged it tight by the roadside (as a kindly e- bike rider stopped to check all was well) I’ve not had any further issues. Having had a hectic few days in the garage, working on the Dawes but also replacing chains, deep cleaning the fixed (paying particular attention to the ENVE bar tape Enve Handlebar Tape | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) and similar maintenance, I wanted to again, stop before I got too carried away and to a point I wasn’t “ahead”.  

 

Therefore, aside from a slight dialling-in of the post’s travel and a liberal blast of Muc-Off Silicon sHine MUC OFF SILICON SHINE POLISH | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) on the internals beneath its boot, I resisted the urge to strip and re-grease. That’s a project for another time and in fairness, the post doesn’t seem hard used, or neglected. Doing so markedly improved the plushness and travel- not unexpected, since Muc-Off recommend it for suspension.  

 

When I do get round to a thorough disassembly, I’ll go for a middleweight synthetic blend, not anything containing PTFE, or lithium. These will knacker expensive composites and rubberised components with frightening ease. Been there and paid the price- with a set of Rock Shox Judy SL, in case you were wondering. 

 

Back to the Dawes, after some slight trepidation, I was relieved to find that my spec, contact points etc. were all a very harmonious mix. 

  

A lot’s changed in thirty odd years, but the Dawes handles very much as I’d hoped. Engaging and quick, yet very predictable. The larger (19 inch) frameset and less aggressively sloping top tube also mean it’s a lot easier to shoulder/carry cyclo cross fashion.  

 

Something to think about, if you’re looking to repurpose and older mountain bike frameset as a cyclo cross, or gravel build. Now, I’m not saying I wouldn’t be interested in riding, or testing a contemporary gravel bike, I’m inclined to say the Dawes has met my design brief with minimal compromise. Yes, I know, I’ll doubtless refine things a little as consumables wear out and suitable test goodies present but no major revisions.         

 

Despite theoretically heading toward the drier months, I’m contemplating mudguards for Ursula. Most now, save for a few exceptions are designed specifically for disc configurations. Not surprising since discs are now the default and I will probably take Ursula the Mudhugger MK2 route this time round, depending of course, whether the cantilever posts are kept post frame surgery.  

Winston says if they’re brazed, he’ll remove them, if they’re TIG welded, he’ll leave them be as they’re trickier to grind smooth. Talking of brazing, here’s my piece about the Holdsworth’s fork column repair Oldie But Goodie: Fork Repair & Revision | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com)