Rubber Up. The Man Who Fell to Earth

 

No sooner had the snow fallen, temperatures rocketed, inducing a rapid thaw. Howling winds and torrential rain followed. Perfect conditions for switching from Ursula to Denise for some more, foul weather testing of the Wolf Tooth Supple Bar Tape and Lomo 13 litre Bikepacking Seat pack. Or so I thought. However, this is a cautionary tale regarding thermometers and internet weather forecasts. According to my devices, it hadn’t hit zero overnight. A few miles into the ride, I entered a bend and hit a stretch of sheet ice, taking us “rubber up”.  

Mercifully, nothing more serious than damaged Lycra and a trashed right hand RL520 lever. Having returned from the 15-mile loop, I wasted no time ordering a replacement pair, since I only had a couple of left-handed Tektro in the spares box. £20 all told but I could’ve done without it, especially given the time of year.  I’d also toyed with going the retro, non-aero route.  

On the one hand, this would make for easier cable replacement but would also mean unnecessary outlay. I’m not paying retro prices either (although suspect I may have a set of Campagnolo Athena that are reversible-new hoods are all I’d need). I’d also seen some Dia Compe 204 with integral quick release for £28.   

These good ideas cum rabbit holes can prove time consuming and ultimately, uneconomic.  Besides, effective repair was simply a question of undoing the inner wire, peeling back the bar tape and removing the broken lever, salvaging hoods and other parts as spares.    

I’d been on plenty of soggy outings with the Lomo and found it highly weather resistant but while the 5mm Wolf Tooth Supple Bar Tape has proven incredibly effective at isolating against road and trail buzz, I hadn’t been able to assess its wet weather prowess.  

I wasn’t surprised to discover, like most silicones grip and tenure are superb. Leach-like, but without the “gripping flypaper” sensation. Obviously, gloves with silicone imprinted palms are the ideal marriage, but traditional palms-synthetic, or leather come a close second.  

I’m also forming the conclusion that while offering excellent damping properties, without unduly muting connection, being 5mm thick, it could prove too bulky for smaller hands. As the photo illustrates, it also survived our tumble with terra firma completely unscathed.   

The wet, wintry conditions had finally licked Denise’s chain clean, so I went the full blown, bars to tyres deep clean route, stripping the residual WTB, degreasing and drying before reaching for the Peaty’s Link Lube Premium All Weather PEATY'S LINK LUBE PREMIUM ALL WEATHER | cycling-not-racing   

Staying with contact points, I read a comment recently regarding quill to Ahead converters and specifically, why people still use them. Sure, they can seize if not greased properly and the guest stem needs to be snugged very tight but they’re also a very inexpensive way of running a modern stem on an older bike.   

Denise Gravel on A Dustbowl Budget PT V Lesson | cycling-not-racing sports one and thus far, its proving dependable. Admittedly, I have used a suitably stiff grease- Oxford Mint Assembly Grease Oxford Mint Assembly Grease | cycling-not-racing and check it periodically to ensure nothing’s turning arthritic. Judging by the pedal threads and fasteners, it’s both highly water and wash-off resistant.   

Having the steerer tube cut and replaced a ’la the Holdsworth Oldie But Goodie: Fork Repair & Revision | cycling-not-racing is arguably a more reliable method but will require a compatible Aheadset, which are getting trickier to find. Unlike replacing the fork steerer, there’s no risk of cracking the fork crown and paint stands a sporting chance of remaining intact too. Other folks will cite period authenticity, and I can also empathise with this school. However, in the latter context, it's easily reversed.  

Talking of bulk, while I’m fond of the Lomo, for everyday duties, I’m drawn to something smaller. A quick rummage in the rafters unearthed this Zefal Adventure R11 Waterproof Saddlebag ZEFAL ADVENTURE R11 WATERPROOF SADDLEBAG | cycling-not-racing, which is surprisingly rigid and sway-free, despite employing a single Velcro post strap. No issues with fouling the seat post since the USE SX’s bouncy bits are neatly tucked away inside.  

The Passport Bike Packing Seat Pack PASSPORT CYCLES BIKEPACKING SEAT PACK | cycling-not-racing is likely to make a return, and it should also play nicely with the USE SX seat post, but Topeak’s UK importer has sent me the brand’s  Backloader Wishbone.  

It has a maximum payload of 2kilos, so not quite a panacea, but looks much better engineered than the auction site special (although arguably it should be, being three times the homage’s ticket price). Will be interesting to see how much well it tames sway with the 6litre back loader Topeak Back Loader Seat Pack | cycling-not-racing and indeed, some bigger models.  

Chains & Steerers

 Having replaced the fixed gear winter/trainer’s KMC Z1 ESP and confirmed I’d worn its predecessor out in 2,000 miles, I decided now was the time to invest in a Gusset S Link chain. It's a model intended for heavy duty BMX duties, but they’ve proven very rugged, durable choices for road going fixed gear builds.  

True, there’s a weight penalty but the ½ link design means a very precise length and in the context of conversions, does away with things like chain tensioners. In terms of strength, the S-Link is cited as being 1300Kgf (Kilogram Force) while a standard chain is closer to 850Kgf. This will hopefully extend chain life, since I don’t run a rear brake on my fixed gear builds and though arguably the simplest transmissions going, fixed builds subject chains and sprockets to considerable forces.  

There are coloured options, employing PTFE infused paint but I’ve gone the electroplated route.  While I was there, I also invested in another couple of 10spd KMC chains for Ursula, since prices were favourable and given the filthy conditions, the existing unit was hurtling closer to .7 faster than I’d bargained for. Whether the Silca Secret Formula will slow this remains to be seen.  

Chains are inexpensive staples, worn drivetrains are not. I was also surprised to discover the adhesive had failed on this LED. Thankfully, it was simply a case of adding a little superglue and sealing the light back together (having inspected the internals, like a curious ten-year-old might). 

The Pirelli Angel DT continue to impress. Having run the CST Xpedium CST Xpedium Tyres | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) as a control for 200miles, switching to the Pirelli revealed just how swift they are. Not that the CST are remotely stodgy, rather the Pirelli are noticeably easier to keep on the boil and ride quality is tangibly more compliant than the ultra-dependable Kenda Kwick Journey KS Plus. KENDA KWICK JOURNEY TYRES | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com)  

I was curious as to whether the Pirelli were in fact 32mm. A common trick by some brands in the 80’s was to claim sections were in fact wider, to claim a weight advantage over competitor brands.  

Double checking with a vernier confirmed they were in fact, 32mm-reassuring and makes direct comparisons with models such as Kenda Kwick Journey KS Plus and to a lesser extent, the CST Xpedium and Maxxis Refuse more relevant.  Iconic is a word that’s been used to the point of muted relevance these days and while battling a 40mph headwind, my mind shot back to the late 80’s and Michelin World Tour.  

I’d bought a pair in Norfolk, mid tour back in 1989. They were to replace a set of 27x1/4 Nutrack that were fitted to a Holdsworthy Claud Butler Super Dalesman, which I’d bought used, from a dealer that March. Road biased touring bikes during this period (1980s) tended to have surprisingly close clearances- less problematic with cantilevers but centre pull callipers were still around. Bottom line 700x32 (27x1/4) were pretty much tops with full length mudguards.

The World Tour’s tread pattern was sufficiently raised that it could tickle the mudguards (fenders) at their tightest point. I ultimately sold them on to a friend, replacing them with some semi slick Vredestine . Seems all these years later, that the World Tour are still a current model- limited to 700x35 and 650. Technology has come a long way since and while a lot of older kit (framesets being prime examples) are still very relevant to me, others are not.  

Drawing parallels with video games, I can see the appeal of Atari systems and some of the simplest games were also the most fun/compelling, but I wouldn’t pay nostalgic prices for them. Similarly, there’s a reason why, save for very rare circumstances, why you never return to a former partner-business, or romantic. 

Back to the Pirelli... Their characteristics were particularly welcome while battling some very stormy conditions and 45mph headwinds. Contexts which are invigorating, life-affirming and very revealing when it comes to product capability/limitations. I had donned a softshell jacket on that particular outing, which was the right call on balance.  

DWR coatings vary in their effectiveness, but softshell jackets follow a jacket cum jersey narrative, catering for a broad range of contexts and temperatures. They’ll hold back light to moderate rain without recourse to a waterproof, shell type jacket but in my experience, heavy to persistent rain will begin making itself known given an hour or so without a break in the cloud.  

Curiously, I managed to over stretch myself and strain a calf muscle while negotiating a junction- the pain was excruciating but faded as I gently eased myself along for a couple of minutes, re-engaging my right foot and progressively upping the tempo for the remaining few miles.       

Another idea that germinated over the festive period was having the steerer replaced on the Holdsworth’s original forks. Not period faithful perhaps but I was thinking in terms of having the exceptionally low threaded steerer substituted with a one-inch threadless tube, meaning I could port the Woodman Aheadset and Torus Ti stem straight over. I would mean a change to longer calliper but hardly an inconvenience. Price-wise, I’d be looking at £95, excluding paint but I wanted a more accurate quote preferably from a frame builder I knew well.   

Lee Cooper replied with a few suggestions, the least invasive to fork and livery was to prune and extend the steerer tube. Replacing the entire steerer ran the risk cracking the crown and would, without question ruin the existing livery. He proposed the most cost-effective permanent solution was to extend the steerer. The quote was similarly favourable, so they’ll be up to the midlands at the next, mutually convenient opportunity.