Minus 6 & Winter Mindfulness

 By UK standards, it’s felt bitterly cold for the past few weeks. The Schwalbe Ice Spiker Pro and their 240-spike Schwalbe Winter Plus counterparts have been making riding through sheet ice and snowy lanes realistic and relatively pleasant.  

I’d resurrected my Vanguard Belgian style cap and lined these laminated, wind and waterproof gloves with the Specialized liners. Even so, the biting cold had been nibbling at my digits, urging me to maintain a brisk tempo, especially on the return leg.  

It’s thawed since, but despite the conditions, Ursula remained surprisingly clean, thanks in no small part to mudguards (fenders to those of you in the US/Canada). Surprising how much difference they make, so if you’re riding in winter, fit them where possible. My expander wedge solution to Ursula’s front guard mounting required some minor revision.

 

Some play had developed, eradicated by adding two 2mm composite Aheadset spacers, providing the top cap with something to lodge against. One from Ursula’s stem-replaced with a blue anodised aluminium example. The other from my small parts pot.    

Clip-on designs have come a long way too, these Mud Hugger  https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/mud-hugger-gravel-hugger-mudgurads are another good bet, if your frameset will not accept, or you want something less permanent, dare I say time-consuming to fit than full-length models. However, there are pre-assembled designs, which are much easier than traditional models to fit. Steve’s been impressed with these Kranx FendR Full Length Mudguards Kranx FendR Full Length Mudguards | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) 

According to the chain checker, the KMC chain remains in rude health and the Wedltite Ceramic held on. Scuzzy side plates encouraged a purge, using Green Oil Clean Chain Degreaser Jelly. I’ve since switched to Wedltite TF2 Performance All Weather Lubricant TF2 PERFORMANCE ALL WEATHER LUBRICANT | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) since it was handy and, in my experience, stoical for an inexpensive lube. No curing times either.  

Indeed, staying with an icy, snow narrative, some 700c builds may only have clearance 700x40c spikes but sans guards. 

The other thing to be mindful of during these harsher, colder days, is bringing bikes into extremes of temperature e.g., from minus 6 to 23-degree kitchen, or utility room, for example. This will cause moisture to build up, especially within metal framesets, fostering corrosion. Frame Saver and Waxoyl certainly mitigate this, but still.  

A few teaspoons (or indeed a syringe full) of gloopy 10w/40 motor oil sloshing around a metal frame’s inner sanctum will also work as a preserve, albeit less effectively. Carbon fibre is quite a conductive material, so ensure to employ a decent, ideally synthetic grease on metal inserts (bottom bracket shells being prime examples) to prevent galvanic corrosion.   

Ironically enough, conditions have thawed a little since I first put fingers to keyboard-I've kept Ursula shodded with spikes but able to enjoy some fun on the fixed, which I shod with the CST Expedium and Pika tyres, just before temperatures plummeted.  Formative impressions are favourable, both are relatively perky and engaging, yet very compliant. Given their width, the Pixar’s puncture-repelling belt only covers the centre strip, so time will tell as to their puncture resistance.   

As I’m always saying, reliability is key to enjoying winter.  After seven years, I’ve been reflecting upon the integrity of the Kinesis DC37 Disc Forks. Now, the lifespan of carbon components (although forks in particular) is hotly debated.  

Without taking the ultrasound thermal imaging inspection route shown here A Visit To Carbon Fibre Bike Repair | Seven Day Cyclist, it’s difficult to comment upon the fork’s integrity and given the variables of age, mileage and potential cost implications of an accident- lost earnings, dental and other bills, I’ve decided replacement is the best move. Given the DC37 is no longer available and tapered steerers increasingly the norm, options were more limited.  

I needed something with disc mounts and preferably mudguard eyes. Didn’t fancy a carbon steerer, nor did I want to risk buying a direct from-manufacturer auction site special. After some thought and hand-wringing, a cyclocross specialist I used to deal with sprung to mind.  

True enough, they had such a model, so after some further reflection, I decided they were the best choice and will fit to coincide with cable replacement, or similar job, no immediate rush. Tyre size is reckoned a little more restrictive than the DC37 but still good for 40mm, so I should be fine.  

Disc braking, though not the only option, has some definite benefits in winter. I’ve decided I’ll upgrade both Ursula and fixed gear winter trainer’s TRP SPYRE SLC to the TRP HYRD hybrid systems-at the right price (and I’ll be holding on to the fully mechanical callipers). Now, as many will point out, most riders go mechanical, or hydraulic. I’d toyed with the fully hydraulic route and there’s a lot to appreciate.  

Set up correctly, they’re pretty maintenance-free, save for pad changes and a spot of generic cleaning. However, bleeding can be a chore and there’s more cost involved- new lever(s) for starters. Though rare, bust a hydraulic hose in the arse end of nowhere is not good news- replacing a cable, is infinitely easier.  

Detractors will comment that any benefit of a hybrid system is offset by its limitations. The TRP HYRD employs a hydraulic reservoir that still requires periodic bleeding and cleaning and without the outright power advantages that full hydraulics offer. Now, the HYRD system has been around for a good while and I got along very well with it on a test bike, ten years back.  

Most hydraulic systems are open these days, meaning that they draw pads closer to the rotor while the Spyres need to be manually tweaked with a 3mm Allen key. Hardly a hardship but a definite plus during a harsh winter, or cyclocross racing. TRP supposedly employs a Bakelite piston to insulate the hydraulics against braking-generated heat. That coupled with my moderate weight, should rule out fade and similar problems, while (theoretically) extending periods between fluid changes. Hmm, we’ll see...   

Changing Rubber, Switching Routes

 

My recent reversion to the dependable and moreover, likeable 700x38 Vittoria Adventure Tech and 700x32 Kenda Kwick Journey KS plus KENDA KWICK JOURNEY TYRES | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com)  has proved a wise move, on the reliability front without sacrificing smiles.  Then along came some CST Pika Gravel and Xpedium Tyres. Ours is the skinny, old school cyclo cross 700x32c but there’s a 42mm (about 1.65 in) for bigger, gravel and adventure bike typical clearances.  

They’re a 60tpi dual compound with EPS (Extra Puncture Protection) puncture repelling belt, sturdy looking sidewalls and run between (35 and 75psi). At £31, they fall into the budget boat, so it’ll be interesting to see how they perform. Bickers LTD www.bickersltd.co.uk , the UK importer also sent me CST Xpedium. A 700x35c commuter biased tyre with a tread pattern superficially like Ursula’s Schwalbe Land Cruiser (no sign of the snow threatened by tabloid press outlets, yet.)  

The Xpedium feature a very comprehensive Aramid belt, which follow a narrative closer to some commuter/touring favourites from Schwalbe and indeed Vee Tire Co Zilent TESTED: VEE TIRE CO ZILENT MARK 2 TYRES (sevendaycyclist.com) although at 715g a bit lighter than both. This season, roads and lanes are paved in dung and similar gooey stuff, add hedge clippings to the mix and yes, the odds of flatting increase quite considerably.  

Blow-outs are relatively rare, although I’ve had a few over the years. Arguably the most hilarious was while riding my hack mtb (based around a Raleigh Maverick frameset and whatever I had, back in 1990/91).  

Hammering through a winding section of singletrack, something pierced the rear tyre’s sidewall and 50psi roared out, inducing a rear wheel slide and a mange et trois...Such weas the force, I was swept into a hedge where a couple were in a passionate tryst. Not sure who was more surprised to see who.  

Replaced that tyre with a 1.75 CST funnily enough- had a beefy 2.1-inch Hutchinson up front. MKS sealed bearing pedals, Zefal clips n’ straps, Weinmann cantilevers, Le Chi levers, thumb-shifters, Exage bio-pace crankset, SR seat post, Turbo homage saddle, 6spd block...A summer distraction while I awaited my GCSE exam results and sold on a year later to fund “The Teenage Dream”, my 531 Competition tubed road frameset.

I digress... A new set of brushes arrived for review, so I wasted no time in getting my filthy fixed lathered up and spruced. Looking in the cleaning bucket, I noted I had a few bottles of cleaner that were basically empty but had enough concentrated surfactant to do one last deep clean. Now, generic car wash n’ wax formulas are a default for me, (when I’m not putting products through their paces).  

 

These cut through the grime and when rinsed, leave a thin protective wax barrier behind. However, after five years regular use, the dregs of Crankalicious Mud Honey Foaming Bucket Wash TESTED: CRANKALICIOUS MUD HONEY FOAMING BUCKET WASH (sevendaycyclist.com) deserved a send-off. The rich later made short work of a week’s slimy spatter and caked on gunge (including some stubborn chain lube).  

The other reason I didn’t reach for wax was that I wanted to lay some helicopter tape atop the fixed’s top and head tube, where the Oxford Evo Top Tube bag was resting. This would prevent any potential swirling, or similar, should the bag move around, or wet gritty stuff get swept between bag and paintwork.  

I also decided the fixed’s KMC Z1 chain was too long, so pruned that by a few links (Claiming a multi tool’s chain function into the bargain. Luckily, I had this Topeak All Speeds Chain Tool TOPEAK ALL SPEEDS CHAIN TOOL | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) so, crisis averted).  

As a side note, I’m fond of multi-tools and especially those with a chain breaker. However, these tend to be weak spots. Even my Gerber Cool Tool’s pin has failed. Final job was a pedal switch.  

Again, I’m attached to the Shimano PD ED 500 Shimano PD ED 500 Pedals | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) and though not desperate to save 160g from the build, I was keen to see if the PD M-540 would have any bearing upon my experience with the Shimano RX6 shoes.

I also noted the Sigma Infinity Rear LED Light SIGMA INFINITY REAR LED LIGHT | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) had mysteriously powered down. So frugal, it gets forgotten, not a fault, or victim of water ingress. Since I’m talking rear lights, here’s my review of the Infini Metis Infini Metis 1-465R Rear Light | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) 

Fixed beautified, I decided it was time to hop back aboard Ursula and to judge whether another pair of long-serving bib tights had become bin fodder, courtesy of a knackered insert. Chafing around my inner buttock was the clue and confirmed during the next ride. This also coincided with an early morning road closure.  

Inconvenient, especially on a Monday morning, when I needed to be home by c. 545. That said; I followed the diversion, upped my tempo and was seemingly guided by some benevolent force along the even darker, narrower lanes. Having pulled up outside my house, with time to spare I considered it a blessing in disguise and looked forward to indulging in its charms, while works continued.