Lights, Transmission, Traction...

 

Small fasteners don’t tend to receive much thought, until/unless we drop one and it vanishes under the fridge, or pings off along a dark and lonely road, never to be seen again. Essentially, it’s good to keep a check on them and where possible, hold a few spares, just in case. I had a reminder this week, when the K-Lite Bike Packer Pro’s K LITE BIKEPACKER ULTRA DYNAMO LIGHT | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) mount screw made a bid for freedom, along a deserted backroad.  

My complacency, NOT a fault with Kerry’s design. Thankfully, I had a Zip Tie handy, so whipped the lamp back in situ and continued. Always good practice to carry a couple, just in case.  

Back at the garage, I had a quick forage in my little fasteners stash and thankfully, found a couple of compatible screws. A timely reminder to buy some more thread lock, too.  My fixed gear winter/trainer’s K-Lite Bikepacker ProV2 Front light K LITE BIKEPACKER PRO V2 FRONT LIGHT | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) had been flickering a little and a diode wasn’t firing on all cylinders.  

Chatting with Kerry State designer and owner suggested some water had possibly found its way inside the box component, damaging the PCB. Hopefully, I’ll acquire a replacement soon, but that might be a bit tricky, given the present combined chaos of COVID and Brexit. I was also gripped by the urge to give the bike a deep clean, switching back to the Halo Fix G Track hub, while the opportunity presented. HALO FIX G TRACK HUB | Seven Day Cyclist Tourin Tests Commuting 

Roads have once again become rivers but thankfully, the Zefal Extra Wet Nano Ceramic Chain lube ZEFAL EXTRA WET NANO CERAMIC CHAIN LUBE | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) is doing its thing, ditto the SKS Bluemels Shiny Mudguards ZEFAL EXTRA WET NANO CERAMIC CHAIN LUBE | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) and Raw Prismatic Reflective Mudflap RAW PRISMATIC REFLECTIVE MUDFLAPS | cycling, but not usually racing (sevendaycyclist.com) 

For a little while, I’d been reflecting on a new, suitable rear mudguard for my fixed gear winter/trainer. Over the last 15 years of ownership, I’ve run some very good, full-length chrome plastics. These offered excellent protection, but the machine has evolved from a road, to gravel configuration.  

Rear clip-ons offer decent rider protection while making wheel removal a touch easier and permitting me to run 35mm tyres in the rear triangle. I've successfully affixed Crud guards to the mono-stay too, using a big rubberised shim- a good setup, for the most part, hence it stayed for a few years.  

I’ve concluded, I wanted something lower-slung, with no risk of fouling bigger luggage-bike packing types being cases in point. A wide section, lower-slung design should subvert wet saddles and buttocks better. I’ll contemplate that while putting the Zefal Adventure R11 Waterproof Saddlebag through its paces-an an ideal opportunity to evaluate just how waterproof it is.  

Big brother to the R5, it features the same single compartment design and semi rigid construction but with some detailing, I really liked about the Passport Cycles Bike packing seatpack PASSPORT CYCLES BIKEPACKING SEAT PACK | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) including the ladder strap LED mounts and cargo net. Both have proved compatible with the Kinkekt2.1 Suspension Seatpost KINEKT 2.1 SUSPENSION SEAT POST | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) and the Redshift Sports Shockstop Suspension Seatpost REDSHIFT SHOCKSTOP SUSPENSION SEATPOST | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com), which is good news, given the increasing popularity of suspension posts on gravel/adventure bikes.  

 

Sore Points Fixed With Subtle Tweaks

I made the schoolboy error of whipping the Pro Stealth Saddle in situ, making cursory visual inspection and checked alignment with a straight edge (rather than a spirit level). Subsequently, I paid the price, 20 miles into our maiden voyage, my sit bones were screaming. 

However, being a seasoned tester of traditional leather saddles, I persevered. Fifteen miles into our second outing, my inner thigh was feeling decidedly raw. I concluded, mid ride that the saddle height was fractionally too low, with the Stealth. 

This, (coupled with the padding density) in turn was placing additional pressure, causing this discomfort.   Relieved to be home, time for a more detailed analysis. I produced a 5mm Allen key and raised the seat post by a few millimetres, then took a spirit level to things. Not far out but sufficient…Loosening the cradle bolt, tilting the saddle fractionally downwards, snugging the cradle bolt tight (while keeping a sharp eye on the level) cured this.

My Univega was sporting a fair amount of slimy, salty road filth and the Juice Lubes Ceramic Juice was looking a bit filmy. This prompted a quick cold-water rinse, followed by a sudsy bucket and drivetrain cleansing 

 https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/juice-lubes-dirt-juice-chain-cleane

White Lightning Extreme Wet was the most obvious, default replacement. No curing time, plenty of staying prowess-should last through February. Delivering a few squirts of Juice Lubes JL69 Bike Maintenance Spray https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/juice-lubes-jl to cables and pivot points concluded said fettling episode…

Then I spotted some nasty looking sharps that had penetrated its rear Schwalbe Marathon Mondial Double Defence Tyres https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/schwalbe-marathon-mondial-tyres. Deflated the tyre, extracted the flints using nail tweezers, then filled the holes with superglue.

Oddly enough, some Tannus Tyre Liners had arrived for testing (although these were 700x32, so went to the Schwalbe Road Cruiser https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/scwalbe-road-cruiser-tyres Fortuitous too, since the Schwalbe had also succumbed to a flint induced flat.

Liner protectors work like another layer within the tyre, preventing thorns and similar sharps puncturing the tube. I recall Tuffy Tape from the late 80s. Some swore by it, others at it.

Those taking a more moderate (dare I say, rational) stance suggested they could work well but recommended checking their alignment periodically. This was to prevent them inducing precisely the flats they were intended to eliminate. 

These Tannus are less convenient to install than heavy duty butyl. They cite an additional 40 seconds. Maybe with assembly line familiarity but I took another 2/3 minutes first time round. Still, at 200g apiece, are considerably lighter than the Kenda Thornproof tubes (which have been my defaults during winter’s worst for nigh on a decade).

Retailing at £29.99, the Tannus are pretty much the going rate for liner technology. That said; money would be better spent on upgrading tyres, if you’re running unreliable budget rubber, or a higher end set are past their prime.  Tannus also reckon it’s possible to limp home on an otherwise flat tyre, without damaging the rim.

Taking this a stage further, this theoretically allows tyres to be run at really low pressures, say for additional grip on the trails, or a really icy road. Personally, in the latter context, I would’ve reached for the Schwalbe Marathon winter https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/schwalbe-winter-spiked-tyre, or comparable spiked tyre.

Back to saddles, I was still feeling a little raw, so switched exclusively to my fixed gear winter trainer and the Selle San Marco Concor SuperCorsa for a few days. Now, as I’ve said before, in some respects, it’s an old saddle but serves to illustrate that classic designs are still very relevant.

Yes, 320g might be a touch portly for some (those with bikes on Calorie controlled diets, in particular) but what’s a few grams if you can sit in comfort all day?  Arguably, black would’ve been a better fit with my working fixed’s colour scheme. I reckon the tan’s a nice contrast.

The Genetic D-Riser 4 Bars continue to impress me. For gravel/cyclo cross I’d stick with their D-Riser 16 siblings https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/genetic-d-riser-bars, which still perform very well on asphalt. 

However, I have been surprised to find the D-Riser 4 feel that bit sharper on relatively smooth roads-sweeping around S bend descents that kind of thing.

I haven’t noticed any real difference, when ascending and as with its sibling the 20degree rise is subtle but welcome, especially through congested traffic, or relaxing on a long day ride.   I'll do a few hundred miles more with these contact points, before reaching any firm conclusions.

More Filthy Fun & Tumbling Temperatures

The recent wet, stormy narrative meant I was washing the fixed every three/four rides. 

No great hardship. The powder coated frame and components are treated to a premium quality wax. In this instance, Naked Bikes Pro Wax Special edition https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/naked-bikes-pro-wax-special-edition and thankfully, gritting lorries are conspicuous by their absence.  

Perfect conditions for evaluating a wet lube. I'm staying with White Lightning Wet Ride . It's a blend of synthetic oils and water repelling polymers. 

No curing time either and in theory you can just top-up, as required. In practice, you'll need to clean the residual (and it's ingrained gritty contaminant first). 

Packing a Crankalicious K- wipe https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/crankalicious-kwipe-chain-cleaner  (or a decorator's solvent wipe) is another good tip, should you need to clean and replenish on a big ride/tour. Same goes fort some middleweights, such as Juice Lubes Viking All Condition High Performance Chain Oil https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/juice-lubes-all-condition-chain-lub and Weldtite TF2 Performance All weather Lubricant

https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/weldtite-tf2-performance-all-weathe 

Otherwise, by this point, I'd also be inclined to cleanse the cassette. Again, a brush dipped in turpentine is very effective. When time's at a premium, aerosol based solvent degreasers come into their own.

During winter, when washing bikes, start by rinsing bikes with cold water first. This will dismiss road salts/similarly caustic stuff. Then take the warm, sudsy bucket route. Hot water will simply awaken the salt monster's malicious side. Then reach for your bike wash, or warm, sudsy elixir. 

Car wash n' wax formulas are very convenient and time efficient. My default, assuming I'm not testing bike washes. The surfactant lifts the grime, then imparts a thin, protective wax barrier. 

As with most things, quality varies, depending on price. However, several litres lasts several months (and that's factoring frequent car washing into the mix). 

Quite effective on sullied bar wrap too. I had been tempted to pop the ACROS Silicone Wrap Handlebar Tape https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/acros-silicone-wrap-handlebar-tape in the wash, following last week's switch to the D-Riser 4. The former (not the bars!) is designed to do tours de Zanussi/Mele/Hotpoint/Indesit/Samsung (* Other brands are available*). 

However, this Oxford Products Tyre Scrub https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/oxford-products-tyre-scrub proved the most convenient method. Its also one of my favourite acquisitions and costs a measly £3.99 . Oxford has also sent me their Cliqr Out Front Handlebar Mount. Phones might be the obvious choice but its reckoned to manage compact action cameras. So, we'll see how it behaves with this Apeman A80   https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/apeman

Prevention is always more convenient (and usually cheaper) than cure. 

Little and often inspection and maintenance keeps problems to a minimum and stops most before they strike. While switching bars, to my horror, I discovered the brake's inner wire a few strands from oblivion. A few inner wires-brake and gear are bread n' butter staples. 

This coincided with a more generic sort out/rationalisation of the garage. I unearthed another two Co2 inflators and the straps for the Fibre Flare USB light. The latter is just the right length to sit on my Univega's seat stays-without fouling feet, or rear brake. Well, it pleased me. 

The fibre flare might lack the outright punch of many modern blinkies. That said; the surface area compensates and in my view, they're particularly suited to tagalongs and trailers. 

A quick lick of Vaseline/silicone grease keeps the switch and contacts corrosion free. 

On the subject of switching, after many happy weeks testing, I've reverted to the XLC SPD pattern pedals. Now, I like dual sided flat/cleat designs, some more than others. Despite the platform's size, there's been no clearance woes with the Look. Nor have I been floundering away from the lights. 

However, for me cross country mtb types win by a nose, when all's said n' done. An editor once suggested I had a fetish for "lookie-likies" (patterns). Yes, was my polite and truthful response.  To clarify, I'm curious to see how patterns perform, relative to the real McCoy. 

Similarly, they are typically cheaper, which is also welcome on winter/working bikes. Wellgo Ritchey patterns are one of my all-time favourite homages. Staying with feet, I've also switched to waterproof socks and synthetic shoes for a while. Primarily since these Oxford Ox Socks arrived for testing and in the latter context, I fancied giving my mighty Quoc Pham a break. I'm no fan of overshoes. 

Not that they aren't an effective way of protecting expensive footwear from the ravages of winter and feet from nasty chill, I just can't abide the faff of trying to tug them on/off. 

My traditional objection to impervious socks is breath ability. While they will keep mother nature firmly at bay, immersed up to the cuff-line. TPU linings tend to leave feet feeling "boiled in the bag" i.e. clammy and uncomfortably moist. 

Worn for prolonged periods, especially in milder weather and/or with synthetic shoes, I've succumbed to athletes' foot and similar nasties. 

Now, the Oxsocks are also supposedly impervious, with a laminated membrane. However, thus far no sign of the clamminess/discomfort. Something that I attribute to the use of merino blend, rather than purely synthetic yarns. 

Despite sensationalist forecasts, the sort implying the country will grind to a pronounced and snowbound halt. In practice, its only turning icy. Not icy enough that I'm inclined to switch to the Schwalbe Marathon Winter Plus https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/after-the-gritters-went-home but exercising more caution. 

Fixed is particularly useful in these contexts. The ability to regulate speed by holding off against the cranks gives much better feedback. Situations where engaging a brake lever runs the very real risk of a spill.