Bearings & Bright Lights...

 No sooner had I tweaked Ursula’s Hollowtech II bottom bracket bearings, the rear XT hub came out in sympathy. I’d been bombing along the backroads and trails, getting some decent miles on the Maxxis Ikon...Came home, rested the bike down and felt some slop. Gripping the rear wheel between thumb and forefinger confirmed this.  

Time was at a premium, so (before I started catastrophising and tearing everything down, replacing freehub bodies etc), the obvious thing to do was switch over to the Ryde Halo Spin Doctor combo, and then inspect the XT at a more convenient moment.  

Wheel swap and cursory inspections complete, now was the time to tweak the fixed gear winter/trainer’s chain tension-the “oh well, might as well, since I’m here” mindset.  Later inspection with a relatively calm mind confirmed it was just a matter of whipping out the 15mm cone and 17mm spanners and dialling everything snug.  

Oodles of grease clinging to the balls and races, locking the elements out. In my experience, Juice Lubes Bearing Juice is particularly good for hubs as they’re always turning. I’ve found it temperature sensitive, so in common with Green Oil Eco Grease can congeal a little when the temperature’s tanking, meaning headset bearings can feel like they’ve too much preload. At the other extreme, it assumes a lower viscosity and buttery smooth when temperatures hit the mid-twenties. An observation, rather than a criticism.  

Anyhow, the slop was easily corrected by loosening the locknut and snugging the cone tighter. Bearings were only replaced in April, races were good, and I double-checked the freehub, since I was about it. No obvious signs of wear there, either. I revisited things the next morning, tightened the cone fractionally, holding it in place while winding the locknut tight. Back went the cassette and lockring.  

A final neurotic turn and tug of the bearings, job done.  Anyhow, since I’d switched to the Halo Spin Dr, which is a lovely hub, I’ll leave the Ryde/Spin Doctor wheel in situ. Schwalbe are sending me their Smart Sam tyres for testing. It’ll be interesting to see how they compare with the Maxxis Ikon.  

The Smart Sam are another cross-country tyre that’s been around a while and reckoned a competent all-rounder with decent rolling resistance on tarmac too, courtesy of the centre strip. Once upon a time, dual-purpose tyres were the worst of both worlds, ponderous on the road and toothless I the dirt. There’s obviously an element of compromise to be expected but they, like the Ikon, sound close to my particular mixed terrain niche.  

Talking temperatures and seasons, the nights are just beginning to draw, dare I say, sneak in a bit now and my attention is turning to new season lighting. I’m very impressed by Ravemen and their TR200 Rear Light. It’s a six-mode, sensored model producing a maximum of 200lumens. Braking functions have been a thing for a good few years now and predictably, have come a long way. Now, “braking” is a debated term.  

Accelerometer is probably closer to the mark as the internal sensor triggers the light when it identifies a drop in pace, or vibration. Earlier designs (c. 2017) were too sensitive and so triggered readily, which had a palpably negative effect upon battery life. This was particularly clear on sharp ascents, or when grinding along with a laden trailer en tow. I’ve noted tangible improvements in the past two years.  

I’ve a soft spot for Ravemen CLO6 Sensored Rear Light RAVEMEN CL06 SENSORED REAR LIGHT | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) , BBB Signal Brake Rear Light, Magicshine See Mee 2000 Version2. Then of course,  Ravemen TR500 USB Rechargeable Rear Light (500lumens) Ravemen TR500 Rear Light | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) which is in my view, particularly useful for trailers/tagalongs, tandems and other specialist builds.  

Back to the TR200, it has three steady and three flashing modes.  40, 20 and 5 lumens and a 200-day flash, flanked by 100-lumen rapid and slow flashing modes. Interestingly, the “braking” function is 100, not the 200lumens and is triggered for two seconds when it senses a loss of tempo.  

Run times on paper, seem favourable and there’s an auto kick down to the 5lumen steady, which is a welcome touch. The 260-degree lens with central convex and 4 LEDs bode well for presence and IPX6 should keep the elements at bay. Time and miles will tell... 

 

All Terrain Escapes

Forty miles in and I’m beginning to bond with those Schwalbe Marathon GT 365. Although a hefty pairing, they complete the Univega’s all-terrain persona, which has also swept me back to the early 80s spirit of UK mountain biking-go anywhere machines that were light, fun and enabled the rider to leave everything behind.

Escapism is a positive thing and not to be confused with sticking one’s head in the proverbial sand. It’s a chance to reflect, figure things through and return with a cohesive, pragmatic strategy. Does wonders for episodes of writer’s block, or those occasions when paragraphs simply merge into a tangled, congealed mass on the screen.

Full-length mudguards naturally limit the machine’s true off road potential. That said; in its present guise and with those tyres; loose surfaces, unmade roads, forest trails and yes, disused railway lines are easily passable at a decent tempo.

The line in question doesn’t go any distance now, thanks to extensive housebuilding, it’s essentially been reduced to a short strip of woodland. Undeterred, I tried the lane in parallel, mindful of getting over-enthused, taking a wrong turn and hammering through someone’s back garden!

I’d been that particular route some years before while rejoicing in a stretch of super smooth forest on my’ cross bike around midnight. All of a sudden, my 1000 lumen headlight picked up two large plastic receptacles and our presence triggered a security light.

Hmmm, wheelie bins… Prod right brifter down two cogs, turn and sprint back was my MO then. Back to those Schwalbe, well, run at 65psi, they held their own with plenty of feedback and no hint of skittishness across the loose, gravelly surface. 

Back on metalled road, more effort was required to overcome the additional rolling resistance but unlike an MTB knobbly, cornering is vastly superior. Two inches wide, they literally smooth over bumpy, battle-scarred rods like a steamroller-the tarmac laying type, not Surly’s iconic plain-gauge fixed frameset.     

Staying with Seven Day Cyclist and the tubby tourer a moment, this storm sure flexible repair adhesive has successfully salvaged its wedge pack’s torn LED tab. https://stormsure.com/  

Composite and plastic materials can be tricky customers but when applied on a warm spring day and left the full 12hours, the repair seems pretty dependable-at least I’ve been happy enough to slip this Moon shield in situ.

Rediscovering my stash of rubber solution permitted a butyl mending binge. These days we can pick up a bunch of tubes for a fiver, almost disposable but where possible, I repair, or recycle them.

Talking of storms, a few showery rides saw enough grime adorning my winter/trainer’s tubes to warrant testing some bike wash and giving the bike a quick once-over. Bike wash did its job in a competent way and closer inspection revealed the rear crud guard’s 5mm fastener needed nipping tight.

In the zone, I decided it was the ideal opportunity to inspect/re-grease strip the seat post and repack the headset bearings. Out came the fix it sticks https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/fix-it-sticks-t-way-wrench .

I was pleasantly surprised by the thin but stoical layer of green oil eco-grease https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/green-oil-eco-grease  still coating both components, although the lower race was definitely due a liberal top-up.

Having wiped the races and double checked for any signs of corrosion, I cleaned both with a rag dipped in solvent before flooding top and bottom races.  The yellow goo’s flow rate is broadly comparable with petrochemicals, although it’s particularly good when temperatures creep into the high teens.

Super smooth again, though I’ll probably strip and replenish every 9, rather than 12months-6 if you’re a rough stuff tourist or mountain biker who can’t resist river-riding.  

Toupes, Tweaks & Tug Jobs

Further plotlines and characters for my series of children’s stories devised and deadlines herded into their respective pens, Border collie fashion, I settled to slathering some fresh Muc-off Carbo-grip to the Holdsworth's Tifosi branded composite post. 

While about it, the Specialized toupe' was reinstated on grounds of grams and the coarse grain leather saddlebag substituted for this Zefal. Aside from superior capacity and zero sway,it includes retro-reflective detailing and LED tab. I had hoped this Cycliq fly 6 HD camera  and LED combo would cadge a lift but its specifically designed for post mounting. No bad thing, since the latter provides superior tenure and blur-free recording.

Polishing and preening complete, attention turned to its track nuts, which needed nipping tight. Obviously, I don't generate    the herculean output of a 90 kilo sprinter. That said; proves transmission braking and hard core honking call  for regular inspection.

Contrary to popular misconception, fixed chains wear faster than their derailleur counterparts. Sure; they’re no skipping up and down a cassette but those forces, coupled with grotty winters (and in my case, occasional trailer tugging duties) lead to hard and relatively short lives.

I’ve managed 3,000miles from this Z1X inox which is roughly twice that of a typical nickel plated speed derailleur chain subjected to similar conditions. Now well into late middle age, I’m probably looking at a further 700miles before it becomes bin fodder. Chances are, we’ll receive another beefy model for review by then; otherwise, I’ll go for another X1.  (Full report on Seven Day Cyclist www.sevendaycyclist.com).

On the subject of trailers, leaving the house without a camera is unthinkable-there’s always something interesting to capture. I overtook this rider on a bypass road while driving the KA and pulled into a layby several hundred metres away to get some shots of his Specialized and Burly combo.

Bikes are incredibly versatile and can haul surprising loads safely, at sensible speeds and for long distances.

Admittedly; the safe bit is clearly open to interpretation, depending on where you are in the world and I’m not sure, even with gearing lower than a snake’s testicles, that I’d attempt hauling Peter Eland’s payload www.eland.org.uk/

Nonetheless, a week’s family shop is easily brought home in a typical mid-range unit. In keeping with panniers, a low slung hitch and sensible weight distribution  are musts but so long as 35kilos isn’t exceeded, I can haul more in my Bob Yak homage than the KA and other micro-minis.  

Single wheel designs, such as the Yak and its followers track behind the bike and enjoy a low centre of gravity, which makes them a more obvious choice off road. 

Sneaking through tighter gaps and side alleys is also easier than their two wheeled counterparts. On the flip side, two wheelers tend to cope better with potholes and make stop-start parking more convenient. Hitches are similarly crucial, look for something low slung that bolts neatly to the rear dropout.

Chariot trailers used to employ a clever ball-joint coupling that was secure, yet counter intuitive to use. Avoid post mounted types crude, or otherwise since they’re agricultural and cursed with a high centre of gravity, which have a detrimental effect upon handling. Substantial twisting forces generated by the beam “wag” the rider, which is tiring to counteract and overcome, even over moderate distances.                  

Elsewhere, Green oil's workshop sized, gun-friendly 200ml tube has just arrived. This makes for very precise, mess and waste-free delivery ; especially to quick release skewers, small fasteners, bearings etc. Other than an initial squeeze, contents flow much faster than the original dropper-bottle, which often needs standing in hot water for a minute or so, particularly in cooler weather.                              

Initial reactions are favourable and it seems much stockier than the original recipe, which though good, degraded faster than PTFE or lithium pastes. Unlike these, it’s reckoned safe on rubberised components such as seals and suspension bushings. We’ll see…Off to watch some old frames restored now.