Hubs n' Hoops

 Shutter Precision got in touch, inviting me to test their SD8 hub, which is very timely, given recent events. The S series is apparently, the lightest, smallest models in the Shutter Precision range. In this instance, reckoned to tip the scales at 350g. By mine, it's 399g.  

After a decade or so, the Halo Aerotrack wheel is needing some slight TLC. Nothing major- tensioning the spokes, new axle and bearings. The former had started shedding threads, so an opportune moment to fit new cartridge units, while the hub is open. Manufacturers and their UK distributors have been extremely helpful and despite the UK’s third country status, some brands in mainland Europe have also reciprocated. Again, greatly appreciated.  

Given this backdrop, I am going to build the PD8 built into a 26-inch wheel, a spare wheel for Ursula, should the Ultegra unit require servicing/rebuilding. Similarly, though still very solid, rims don’t last forever, even with the most disciplined maintenance. I’ve acquired a 32-hole Ryde Andra 40, which isn’t the lightest but promises to be strong and dependable. While hardly obsolete, 26 –inch mtb is no longer the default, so choice is a little less plentiful than it was, say a decade back.  

I’ve always erred toward a little overbuild, especially on touring, working and mountain bikes- save for cross country racing.  In some respects, the Rigida Sputnik would’ve been a more obvious choice and the Andra have a reputation for being tricky to build, hence why I’ve commissioned Mick Madgett with the job. The other reason I’m having a “second” wheel built for Ursula boils down in part, to the fact the Rigida Snyper rim has served ten years and though seemingly solid, won’t last forever. 

I’ll inspect it properly while I’m testing the SD8.  

Talking of overbuild, I’ve formed a fond bond with the Sigma Buster 200 FL, which though less potent than some, on paper, remains very relevant and versatile enough for most riding contexts. https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/sigma-sport-buster-hl-2000    

The weather has only just become recognisably autumnal and despite apocalyptic forecasts, conditions are still permitting stock tyres. The Muc-Off Ludicrous AF chain lube is still clinging on, although cleat and brake mechanisms, pivot points etc are needing the odd short of Jokker 440 to keep them sweet and crud free. This presented an ideal opportunity to tweak Ursula’s rear brake slightly. Not that I employ the rear brake very often, but I want it sweet, responsive, and dependable.

  

 Weekly sudsy bucket washes and periodic waxing are a must right now. The single application of Muc Off Ludicrous AF chain lube was finally relenting, so time to purge the residual and modest contaminant. I was promised another blend of tenacious chain lube, so until that arrives, I’ve returned to the Weldtite Ceramic WELDTITE CERAMIC LUBE | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) 

I’ve also been promised some very refined bar tape. I haven’t decided whether Ursula, or my fixed gear winter/trainer, will be the recipient, much will depend on whether I switch to the Tektro RL520 lever sooner, or later.  Though hefty, Schwalbe Marathon GT365 TESTED: SCHWALBE MARATHON GT 365 BICYCLE TYRES (sevendaycyclist.com) are super dependable, offering excellent traction and moreover, puncture resistance through the dark, slimy, slippery roads. 

I run wider sections, where possible (a) Provides greater cushioning from the lumps and bumps that creep in (b) Improved contact with the road surface. High-quality suspension posts are another definite plus, giving some additional refinement along winter roads and trails, without the heft and complication of suspension forks.    

Cane Creek Thudbuster ST G3 TESTED: CANE CREEK THUDBUSTER ST SEATPOST (sevendaycyclist.com) and G4 and Kinekt 2.1 Suspension Seatpost KINEKT 2.1 SUSPENSION SEAT POST | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com), (which is still offered in a 25.4 diameter) so an excellent, dare I say, viable option for older mountain bike framesets converted to working bikes, rough stuff tourers, or indeed, gravel builds. Just don’t skimp on the shim. They’re not expensive but even at the upper end, £20 is much cheaper than the cost of frame repair, or worst-case scenario, scrappage.  

    

Winter-specific thermal kit has been donned- bib longs, long sleeve base layers, thermal jerseys, gilet, and full-finger gloves. Despite a generous thatch, I’ve also reached for thicker caps and socks. The mercury has slid to minus figures, although thankfully, no ice, just arctic blasts, and sleety interludes   

Turning lower gears means a higher cadence and improved blood flow, so cold doesn’t bite so intrusively. I’ve also switched to the FLR Defender MTB Thermal Dry S-Tex Boot FLR DEFENDER MTB DRY BOOT | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com

Wheels of Fortune

This Shutter Precision SP8 dynohub has just arrived on Seven Day Cyclist’s test bench https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/blank-tyhn0 I’m very eager to see how it compares to my benchmark, Shimano Ultegra unit, which offers nominal drag and consistency of output. 

The PD8 nudges 400g and is surprisingly compact. 6v 3 watt output is pretty much what I’d expect from this price point, as are sealed bearings and low drag.

Paired to an exposure lamp, my Ultegra unit is good enough for light trail and dirt road duties too. Big S’s lowlier Nexus was my first, hands-on experience of hub dynamos. Inexpensive and adequate for commuting and general riding, provided you were preoccupied with being seen, rather than navigating with.

There’s no doubt it repaid the modest investment many times over. I paid a friend £80 in total for hub and wheel build back in 2001. Probably the biggest shock (amplified ten fold when compared to the Ultegra) was the hub’s resistance. Maintaining 17/18mph is relatively taxing but again, useful for winter training and moderate commutes.

During this period, high end MTB commanded £200 or so and LEDs, though increasingly better were still emitting a bluish tint and guzzling AA/A cells at a fairly rapid rate. I also liked the enclosure and sleek simplicity of the dynohubs, especially with modern, sealed bearings.

Some riders took that to its most literal, running their Nexus groups into the ground and seemed stunned, when these enslaved units inevitably gave up the ghost. Prior to that, my dynamo experience was a tyre driven Union model. This was light, cheap and very much of the yellow glimmer variety. Something similarly crude, equally dependable but more powerful was attached to a friend’s workhorse tandem.

Economical and, generally reliable so long as you’d routed the wiring carefully-these were cable tied and stuck to the mudguard’s underside using electrical tape. No problems with blown bulbs either, which was quite impressive given the speeds achieved on some descents. There’s also something deeply satisfying about generating your own lighting.

Aside from output and quality, dynamos have become increasingly sophisticated, capable of charging phones and other tech, which we are becoming increasingly reliant upon. Addicted is a loaded term and like any sweeping statement, inaccurate by definition. As a journalist, I’m fascinated by technology, shiny stuff and developments-even if it’s not necessarily “my” thing.

There’s a tendency, quirk of the human condition to reduce things to right and wrong. I believe there is the right tool for the job. Staying with bikes for a moment, anyone who has worked in a bike shop will know; one of the most common questions asked is “What’s the best bike”.

My response has always been along the lines of “The best bike is the one that does exactly what you want it to do”. My Univega is a go-anywhere, mile munching load lugging workhorse built for bad weather, rough roads, lighting on tap.

A rider of comparable strength riding a road biased machine will blow me into the weeds. Similarly and at the other extreme, my Holdsworth is built for sunny days’ speed and I’ve caught a fair few riders by surprise-especially on the climbs. I am also someone who can go ten miles on (very) controlled rage alone.

Money has always been a very finite resource, so I’ve become very resourceful, dare I say creative in how I manage these projects, often employing a system of barter and/or swapping unused and unwanted kit for something more appropriate.

Cameras and cars follow in a similar tradition. I was once queried about my attachment to Sony’s A mount (I also run the NEX E mount systems. These have some limitations but are very handy for street photography and candid wedding portraiture). 

Sony digital bodies, (sometimes referred to as Minolta) were an obvious transition after my Minolta film cameras and several lenses were destroyed in an “accident”. I was waiting at a red light when someone skillfully drove their car into the back of my borrowed red Kawasaki, killing it, cameras and leaving me trapped, in an undignified, leather clad heap. Talking of which, though from a totally different context; Crankalicious have sent me their pump spray leather lacquer and crisp frame hybrid frame wax.

The former isn’t a hide food in the traditional sense, so treat saddles, shoes, handlebar wrap requiring nourishment should get that first. However, leather lacquer will provide a water repelling, grippy barrier, protecting the hide, while improving purchase in the wet. Initial impressions are favourable. I generally give saddles and other leather kit a light proofing, every six weeks.

The crisp frame hybrid frame wax is, as its name suggests, a blend of synthetic and naturally occurring waxes. It’s a solid type, which minimises wastage, though is surprisingly nice to administer. It’ll assume a haze once cured and gives glossy results when buffed lightly. How durable these are, compared with similar potions, will become more apparent as the days become shorter and roads wetter.

 
John Moss is very intrigued by the SP hub. So much so, he's offered to build into a wheel. Help I have gladly accepted. Have my eye on a Halo hoop and suitable 14g stainless spokes; so watch this space...