The Wheel Issue

Switched the fixed gear winter trainer back to the Mavic/Halo Fixed-G Track Hub HALO FIX G TRACK HUB | Seven Day Cyclist Tourin Tests Commuting and I’d fed the chain some BAT Wax chain lube. Now, sweeping, broad strokes statements are inaccurate by definition. Caveat established; traditional wax lubes tend to be remarkably similar in terms of application, durability, and performance.  

The biggest similarity is their need for surgically clean host transmissions. Particularly true of emulsion/water-based blends, which will simply float away, if there’s the faintest trace of petrochemical product clinging to the rollers.  

In some instances, say, if I’ve been running a wet lube for a few weeks prior, I may well remove ring(s) and cassette(s) and leave them soaking in a degreaser stock, such as Squirt Bike Degreaser Concentrate SQUIRT BIKE CLEANER CONCENTRATE | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) or in the context of stainless/polished components, a master-blaster potion, such as Green Oil Agent Apple extreme Immersion Degreaser. TESTED: GREE OIL AGENT APPLE EXTREME IMMERSION DEGREASER (sevendaycyclist.com) 

Drivetrain immaculate, the wax can be applied. Bat follows the traditional shake and allow four hours curing time narrative. However, though the flow rate is good, and it seeps deep into the links, the thicker viscosity means it clings to the chain, rather than engulfing the floor and anything else in proximity. This could be attributable to the sudden dip in temperature but then I wouldn’t expect the wax to flow steadily. Will be interesting to see what the next few weeks bring. 

A few fast blasts over the easter weekend suggest it's smooth and friction is low. Whether it will rival some ceramic blends, such as Weldtite TF2 Advanced Ceramic Chain Wax TEST & REVIEW: WELDTITE TF2 ADVANCE CERAMIC CHAIN WAX (sevendaycyclist.com) remains to be seen. Nonetheless, the Bat Wax has made me sit up and take notice. Nice to have the Fix-G set up right again. Present gearing (700x32 165mm cranks and 16T) is now 70.9 inches, which translates as 19mph average and means I’m not busting my knees on shorter, sharper climbs.   

Not a new model by any means but I love the system’s design, which allows precision chain line and therefore, zero noise. An eccentric bottom bracket is the other solution but not one commonly employed on fixed gear builds.  

The Univega’s eagerly awaited XT/Rigida Sputnik wheel also arrived this week. I planned to leave it waiting in the wings while getting my final miles from the cheap but very cheerful Mach/Deore pairing. I went to consult my equine guru regards Ursula’s gearing. Seems I have been shunned, so will stick with the 12-25 until hyper-intelligent horse people say otherwise.    

Being a bank holiday, plans changed. Closer inspection suggested the rim was beginning to show signs of fatigue. Decision made. Out came the Pedros Vise Whip and trusty Cyclo cassette tool. Despite a liberal helping of Park grease on the lock ring, a quick blast of GT85 was needed before it would release.  

In keeping with other, bike (and non) related work, there are a wealth of views re-greasing freehub splines.  

I’m of the “add a thin layer” camp, although as many will point out, there’s little risk of galvanic seizure between the two components. More important is to grease the lockring threads with a suitably stout prep. Assuming you’re not using exotic components, old-school lithium should be fine, but I err towards synthetics for peace of mind.  

I also prefer tools with guide pins, since these afford more stability and ensure tool and splines engage flush, so no risk of slip damage.    

Cassette, rim tape, and skewer swapped, I disposed of the old hoop and fed the chain some Bat Wax, since I was there and because I am curious to see whether it will behave like other waxes on a derailleur setup. Temperatures in the mid-teens haven’t impacted on the lube’s flow rate or seen the lion’s share on the concrete beneath, which is a very welcome surprise. However, the proof of any lube is in the riding, so I’ll plod on.   

 

Magnetic Attraction

So, with freshly rebuilt dynohub wheel safely returned to me, and Univega waxed, following some mucky January mile munching, it was time to switch to fixed. 

Following frankenpute euphoria, you’ll imagine my dismay at a flickering and sometimes unresponsive computer display. Big fat flashing zeros are not cool.  

Let us be clear (as the present UK administration is so fond of touting). I had inserted fresh CR2032 cells, adding a slither of Vaseline to the battery contacts, nipped the sensor ties and magnet tight…Most probable causes isolated.

A seasonal Lurgy curtailed further diagnostics, but all seemed to be behaving normally. Both on the work stand and a subsequent mile long loop.

Three days later, back in the saddle, out along the lanes. Dynamo on, blinkies pulsing, erratic readouts... So, I switched the Trelock LS 906 https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/trelock-ls906-dynamo-front-light  lamp off. Consistently accurate, precise readouts resumed. Fluctuations gone.  This remained the case, over two rides and 45 miles.

I’ve never experienced these symptoms with my Univega’s Ultegra, or elderly Nexus hub dynamos. However, Strong magnetic forces, such as those experienced around power plants, and pylons are notorious points of interference. 97.6mph along a long, straight road, anyone? 

 I am also advised Shutter Precision hubs have particularly strong magnets.

Carbon fibre can also prove conductive, which is why good quality greases/assembly pastes must be used on metal components, to avert risk of galvanic corrosion/seizure. Bottom bracket threads being prime candidates. Could it be that the wonder weave, is amplifying said magnetic field, and creating these irregular signals?  

This may dictate moving sensor and magnet to chain-stay and rear wheel. Doing will exhaust computer and sensor cells a little faster. But provided I don’t exceed the 1 metre rule, everything should play nicely.

A wired unit is my last resort. Aside from defeating my “make do and reinvent narrative”, I’ll need to be more mindful when performing headset strips, and similar maintenance.  Blackburn have advised they no longer keep spares for the Atom units and, surprisingly, have deleted computers from their range.

Another rummage through the bodge box unearthed this VDO M3 WL, which appears to have a sensor fault. I’ve tried all the above techniques, but they won’t play nicely. Nor any other brands, for that matter, so I’ve emailed their UK importer for help. 

Despite constant headlines threatening a second ice-age, the thermostat has hovered around a seasonally typical 5 degrees.

No call for spikes just yet, although the wind chill prompted donning of Northwave Balaclava, once or twice.  These Oxford bright 4.0 gloves https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/oxford-1

have also come into their own and Steve’s been impressed by Proviz Reflect 360 CRS Plus Jacket https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/proviz-reflect360-crs-plus-jacket  

Chainsaw oil is continuing to do the business and some 140 miles in, is probably the closest to a bike specific, wet lubricant. I’m bargaining 500 miles from a single application. On paper, it’s looking a costlier option, compared with the bargain basement 5w/40. However, the latter attracted more scuzz. Most apparent within the cassette.

There’s been some further perch swapping, courtesy of this Pro Turnix gel saddle, which now graces my fixed gear winter/trainer. Its Selle Italia Novous boost superflow has been ported over to my tubby tourer and I’ve earmarked the BBB Echelon, elsewhere. Possibly the Goldhawk Roadax, if I can’t live with its stock/OEM model.