Silence is Golden

Icy weather in remission, it was time to switch back to my beloved fixed. I’d also received this rather nice Fizi’k Vento Solocush tacky handlebar tape, and a Tioga city slicker (700x32c) tyre. The Fizi’k Vento Solocush Tacky handlebar tape, is reminiscent of other tacky, polymer based tapes. Including Lizard Skins DSP bar tape https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/lizard-skins-dsp.

I wasn’t expecting the additional .2mm density to have much impact, especially when dressing the bars. However, it required a firm, consistent approach to achieve aesthetically pleasing results. In common with similar tapes, it was very tolerant of being rewound, which was welcomed.

These sorts of finishes require more delicate cleansing (no harsh chemicals, or brushes for that matter). Otherwise, you’ll strip the non-slip layer. I was also surprised by how readily minor traces of dirt/oil and grease transferred. So, best to wear/change examination gloves, if new tape coincides with more generic servicing/repair.  

Plenty of additional incentive to get out along the lanes. However, I have noticed a palpable and pronounced surge in aggression-across the board. 

Observation and first-hand experience, on two wheels and four, leads me to hypothesise people are increasingly angry and entitled. This leads to an emotionally immature, and extremely dangerous “might is right” mindset. Rather than considered, cooperative and intelligent approach to road use.

I have often wondered whether this has any connection to a wider sense of societal angst and popularist politics. Popularism can be defined in a multitude of ways. For me, it describes a knee jerk, simplistic, emotional responses to complex issues. 

Popularist ideologies appeal to those, who know nothing about the world, are disinterested in exploring possibilities and simply want these prejudices validated.

Talking of prejudices, while in the midlands, collecting my wheel, from John Moss, I suddenly got thinking about my Univega’s mysterious (phantom) creak. Bottom bracket replacement sounded like a reasonable starting point.

Then I got to thinking along other lines. Firstly, the idea that the left-hand crank might be the culprit. Perhaps the alloy taper had warped slightly, preventing it from staying snug on the arm. This prompted one of those infamous, late evening trawls of the online auction sites, searching for a suitable replacement crankset, at the right price…

Having placed a couple of (mercifully) unsuccessful bids, I then reflected upon recent changes. Pedals being the only component switches. So, I reverted to the venerable Ritchey patterns, gave the crank bolts another quick check, then headed out for another twenty-mile blast.  Smooth, progressive silence

This appears to have cured the problem, so, being a perpetual fettler, I am, I’ve swapped to these Wellgo RC713, which offer excellent ground clearance and surprising amounts of support, even on longer outings. However, there’s no doubting double sided designs have a slight edge, at the traffic light grand prix.  

I was tempted to swap to a rather nice set of single sided Time. However, these would require swapping over to the time cleats. Sticking with SPD means I can alternate between fixed gear ‘crosser and Univega, without having to consider footwear choices.

Back on the fixed, I was enjoying some headspace along the lanes, when a mile from home, a slow rear puncture struck. I was able to creep the final half mile, on 35psi. The Gods had decided it was time to instate the Halo track HG wheel, built by John Moss. https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/love-resurrection-john-moss-s-tandem 

Now, there’s a lot to be said about this hub. One side is threaded for a conventional track sprocket and lock-ring. Bearing quality and weather sealing are also very high, well suited to the real world. In this instance, hollow Cro-moly axles turn on super smooth, Japanese bearings.

Refined and very reliable but nothing out of the ordinary… However, the other features an HG cassette type body, designed for Halo’s dedicated 7mm sprockets. These slot on the splines and are locked in situ, using a traditional Shimano type tool. No need for chain whips and primal grunting.

Yes, traditional HG sprockets may fit…

However, they will wear through the splines. You have been warned. It will accept sprockets between 12 and 20 teeth. Caters for pancake flat, hillier regions, or indeed, trail duty too.

The other significant feature is the ability to get chainline absolutely bang-on (between 41 and 52mm). This is particularly significant on conversions, which have generally required bevelled sprockets to compensate.  

I gauged spacing by studying that of the Aerorage wheel. Panned out exactly as I’d hoped. Sliding the 15tooth sprocket home, I added a moderate lick of grease to the lock-ring.

Snugged tight, I mounted Schwalbe rim tape and their 35mm Marathon GT tyre. https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/schwalbe-marathon-gt-tyres  I wanted something super dependable but relatively sprightly. The GT roll a lot faster, and smoother than their weight and profiles suggest. Looks like a great package and one I can’t wait to get testing!

Magnetic Attraction

So, with freshly rebuilt dynohub wheel safely returned to me, and Univega waxed, following some mucky January mile munching, it was time to switch to fixed. 

Following frankenpute euphoria, you’ll imagine my dismay at a flickering and sometimes unresponsive computer display. Big fat flashing zeros are not cool.  

Let us be clear (as the present UK administration is so fond of touting). I had inserted fresh CR2032 cells, adding a slither of Vaseline to the battery contacts, nipped the sensor ties and magnet tight…Most probable causes isolated.

A seasonal Lurgy curtailed further diagnostics, but all seemed to be behaving normally. Both on the work stand and a subsequent mile long loop.

Three days later, back in the saddle, out along the lanes. Dynamo on, blinkies pulsing, erratic readouts... So, I switched the Trelock LS 906 https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/trelock-ls906-dynamo-front-light  lamp off. Consistently accurate, precise readouts resumed. Fluctuations gone.  This remained the case, over two rides and 45 miles.

I’ve never experienced these symptoms with my Univega’s Ultegra, or elderly Nexus hub dynamos. However, Strong magnetic forces, such as those experienced around power plants, and pylons are notorious points of interference. 97.6mph along a long, straight road, anyone? 

 I am also advised Shutter Precision hubs have particularly strong magnets.

Carbon fibre can also prove conductive, which is why good quality greases/assembly pastes must be used on metal components, to avert risk of galvanic corrosion/seizure. Bottom bracket threads being prime candidates. Could it be that the wonder weave, is amplifying said magnetic field, and creating these irregular signals?  

This may dictate moving sensor and magnet to chain-stay and rear wheel. Doing will exhaust computer and sensor cells a little faster. But provided I don’t exceed the 1 metre rule, everything should play nicely.

A wired unit is my last resort. Aside from defeating my “make do and reinvent narrative”, I’ll need to be more mindful when performing headset strips, and similar maintenance.  Blackburn have advised they no longer keep spares for the Atom units and, surprisingly, have deleted computers from their range.

Another rummage through the bodge box unearthed this VDO M3 WL, which appears to have a sensor fault. I’ve tried all the above techniques, but they won’t play nicely. Nor any other brands, for that matter, so I’ve emailed their UK importer for help. 

Despite constant headlines threatening a second ice-age, the thermostat has hovered around a seasonally typical 5 degrees.

No call for spikes just yet, although the wind chill prompted donning of Northwave Balaclava, once or twice.  These Oxford bright 4.0 gloves https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/oxford-1

have also come into their own and Steve’s been impressed by Proviz Reflect 360 CRS Plus Jacket https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/proviz-reflect360-crs-plus-jacket  

Chainsaw oil is continuing to do the business and some 140 miles in, is probably the closest to a bike specific, wet lubricant. I’m bargaining 500 miles from a single application. On paper, it’s looking a costlier option, compared with the bargain basement 5w/40. However, the latter attracted more scuzz. Most apparent within the cassette.

There’s been some further perch swapping, courtesy of this Pro Turnix gel saddle, which now graces my fixed gear winter/trainer. Its Selle Italia Novous boost superflow has been ported over to my tubby tourer and I’ve earmarked the BBB Echelon, elsewhere. Possibly the Goldhawk Roadax, if I can’t live with its stock/OEM model.

Tart's Handbag?

 

Spare cone cum spacer arrived for the Halo Aerotrack hub, so I wasted no time in drizzling some green oil eco grease on the threads and winding it home. After a bit of deliberation, I opted to run the Titanium sprocket, checking this had a generous helping of waterproof synthetic grease.

Sat between it and the hub’s aluminium alloy threads. In this instance I’ve gone for White Lightning crystal grease https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/white-lightning-crystal-grease  which seems particularly dependable. However, given this bike serves year round, I will be inspecting more frequently than those adorning the On-one Inbred hub. Remiss of me.

Seems the right hand EAI sprocket and lockring have formed a particularly stubborn union with the aluminium alloy hub threads.  I’ve tried liberal marinades of high quality penetrant/release sprays before introducing lockring spanners, chain whips and primal grunting. Nope, won’t budge. So I’ve put it down and will revisit when inspiration strikes.

Where possible, I like to keep components going-if they’re basically in good order but I’m beginning to wonder-if I’m going the wheel build route, salvage might be false economy. The last thing I want is a freshly built wheel, only for the hub to conk out in spectacular fashion shortly afterward!

So, I am researching alternatives. System EX units were nicely executed budget options, though it’s not clear if they’re still in production. Three times the price but Surly also produce some nice small flange double fixed hubs with more sophisticated bearings…Nonetheless, in the meantime, I’m relieved I held on to the Halo and will make very good use of it.

Staying on the subject of lubes and other fluid tooling, Green Oil have sent us their new Ecospray lube. PTFE and petrochemical free. PTFE (often known as Teflon), was discovered by accident in the 1930s are remains pretty ubiquitous. Not just in engineering applications either; non-stick cooking utensils, carpets and socks being three that immediately spring to mind.

On the plus side, Teflon lubes and greases are cheap, surprisingly effective and reasonably durable. However, it’s not kind to organic/aquatic life and is widely thought to be connected to heart, thyroid and lung conditions.

Repacking hub bearings, headsets, pedals and bottom bracket threads every few months and doing so eight hours a day, 5/6 days every week for thirty years present two very different levels of risk.

The same goes for classic car/motorcycle enthusiasts and professional mechanics, when talking exposure to swarf and other carcinogens found in used motor oil.

I wear latex/similar examination gloves when working with petrochemicals. I must admit that I’m not so fastidious when giving cables and mechanisms a quick squirt, or lubricating chains.  

 So then, to the maintenance spray.

Well, I wasn’t surprised to learn the stock is that, used in their wet chain lube. However, achieving the spray-able consistency requires a greater ratio of plant based solvent.

Some folks will argue that butane/propane propellant put a dent in the eco-friendly credentials but I’m assure quantities involved present minimal impact to environment and user alike.

So far, I’ve used it on the teenage dream’s Regina freewheel, cleat mechanisms and assorted brake cables. The rich yellowy layer could almost pass for a heavyweight PTFE potion, the sort that will, in a pinch double as a summer chain lube. Several weeks and more varied use should give a better indication of its strengths and, where appropriate, weaknesses/limitations.

 

Search & Rescue

Wheel on the jig, we were surprised by how wobbly it had become and there was clear evidence of a flat-spot. A few deft tweaks later, it was running true. Back home, tyre and tube reinstated, I introduced a modest 85psi and the rim literally warped before my eyes.

Seconds later, the 30mm Vee Rubber tyre followed suit and I was powerless to stop the tube exploding. The long serving and otherwise, ultra-reliable DN6 hoop was completely spent. It had served almost 12years faultlessly and only been trued twice in that time, so owed me nothing.

Buying a like for like replacement was an obvious, indeed sensible default. However, money was committed to other things and therefore, in short supply... 

Then I remembered I’d stashed a 32-hole Mavic Open Pro rim somewhere...

A few minutes’ foraging unearthed the hoop from behind some tyres. Having double checked it was a 32 hole; I brewed a sudsy bucket, grabbed my favourite brush and tickled the rim clean.  

The double sided inbred hub remains in rude health Even if the spokes were of correct length, reusing them would’ve been false economy, so I cut the hub free in a matter of minutes, using a small set of bolt croppers. 

John Moss has very kindly offered to build me a new wheel, provided I supply the correct components.

I also recalled having a set of Halo Aerotrack wheels doing something close to nothing. The Aero track in question are eight years old and weigh almost 1 kilo apiece. However, they are very stiff and strong.

I don’t run a rear, lever activated brake on fixed set ups, so the non-machined sidewall works fine for me and the fluro green powder coating is of decent quality. Despite the track label, the super smooth, double sided hubs are well-sealed from the elements. I may strip and service them with Green Oil Eco grease. https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/green-oil-ecogrease-long-ter-test   

Mine seemed to be missing a cone and integral spacer on one side, so I emailed their UK importer. Ison Distribution www.ison-distribution.com Lloyd responded promptly, some photographs were shared and he graciously offered to send replacements in the post, which I gladly accepted. His generosity didn’t end here.

For the Mavic build, I needed to calculate spoke lengths. Some online research unearthed a very user-friendly database cum calculator. Entering the rim and hub combo, it came back with 282mm, based upon a 2 cross lacing pattern.

Once upon a time 3 X was the default, 4 for heavily laden touring but since 1990, 2X has ruled the roost-for general road, or trail duties. Having spotted Halo spokes this length and in black, I approached Lloyd to check he had stock. He did and moreover, generously donated 32 along with the hub components!

While I await their arrival, I’ve plucked the Teenage Dream from seasonal hibernation. Bikes with complete, period groupsets are nice and I can appreciate truly original builds. However, it’s not my particular route.

Mine are either built, or evolve to suit me. Hailing from 1991, I have upgraded to more modern cockpit, fork and dual pivot brakes are for me at least, a marked improvement upon the originals. Some would say it’s ironic that I haven’t replaced the early 80’s 6speed Campagnolo mechs.

Sentiment aside, they’re in great shape, the machine isn't raced and I like the present blend. Wellgo SPDR pattern pedals may also offend some folks but I find recessed cleats are more practical. Then of course, their smaller surface area entertains more spirited cornering.

Dancing up the climbs, the old fashioned, tubing and lugged construction might feel a bit whippy around the bottom bracket region but it still delivers a responsive and engaging ride. Some would dub it a real mongrel, others a Heinz57. I say, my machine and just as I like it.