Shakedown Ride

 

Sunday morning at 6am, I snuck out to the garage, emerging stealthily with the Teenage Dream, just as I did during the summer of ‘91. Minutes later, I was enjoying the responsive zing of the thin-walled steel tubeset. The Knog/Decathlon Frankenputer was clocking a steady 19.6mph and braking, though progressive was refreshingly sharp.  

A big, fly-catching grin followed for the 20-mile loop. Only the BBB mudguards and PDW pump bracket required adjustment, although I noted the Lezyne pump’s tendency to slither downwards, perilously close to the chainring, so the PDW mount had to go-substituted for a Syncros unit holidaying in my Bodge box. This also features a rubber strap for belt n’ braces, vibration cheating security. I also needed to pull the Moon Meteor strap a little tighter around the Salsa Bell lap bars, to prevent its incremental rotation.   

Switch and minor tweaks complete, bike safely away. I turned my attention to Ursula’s drivetrain. Shifting had gone “off”- phantom shifts and hesitancy being the main symptoms. Chain was still in good shape but the derailleur’s inner wire was showing some external signs of fraying, so I replaced this, and the housing, which had developed a very slight kink. 

 

Stripping these, I discovered the inner was a few shifts from expiry and was essentially held together by a PTFE “fatball” or clot, which can develop over time, using the heavier duty maintenance sprays. 

The Rear mech was also sporting impacted waxy colic, which took several helpings of solvent and enthused scrubbing to shift. Note to self... treat the spring, pivots and cables to GT85 and leave the heavier duty PTFE sprays for recessed Allen heads, cleat and locking mechanisms. The chain has been fed a light helping of Weldtite Ceramic Lube WELDTITE CERAMIC LUBE | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com), which is defined as an “all weather” formula and in my experience, a decent staple.        

Shifting back on song, I turned my attention to my fixed gear winter trainer. I’d left the Kinekt 2.1 Aluminium suspension seatpostKINEKT 2.1 SUSPENSION SEAT POST | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) in situ since November and thought it was time to remove and re-grease. One thing led to another, and I reverted to Cane Creek’s excellent Thudbuster ST, the G4 in this instance, which features 50mm of travel, easily switched elastomers (press-fit, tool-free). This also cured a slightly annoying creak- the Kinekt seems to require the periodic helping of composite/rubber-friendly grease.  

Not that the Kinekt could ever be described as a pogo stick, the G4’s bob is less obvious but equally effective. It’s also saved 92g, although this wasn’t on my agenda. I’m also pleased to note that ACF50 used in place of grease has done an excellent job of protecting against corrosion.  

Slackening the seat collar bolt, the Kinekt slid out with buttery finesse. Impressive, given the months exposure to wet roads, snow, ice, and frequent sudsy bucket washes. I’ve been defaulting to Green Oil Eco Grease TWELVE MONTH TEST: GREEN OIL ECO GREASE (sevendaycyclist.com), primarily since it’s compatible with all surfaces and loosely on par with the bog-standard PTFE types in the durability stakes.  

Little surprise that the Kinekt Waterproof Saddle Bag KINEKT WATERPROOF SADDLE BAG | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) is an equally good fit. I just needed to pull the straps a little tighter, which is no hardship.     

I’ve been watching the steady implosion of UK industries and it is very clear that stable and skilled jobs are continuing to decline. Honda is leaving Swindon in a matter of weeks and being replaced by a warehouse. Now, work in car plants, at least on the lines is at best semi-skilled. However, its comparatively well paid, warehouse jobs are not.  

Having watched various cornerstones of the British economy disappear (mining, shipbuilding and manufacturing being three that immediately spring to mind). 

Highly skilled people tended to fare much better and could port their skillset to other industries. In the late 90s, Lifelong learning became a buzzword and lifelong learning accounts were a means by which those who had been “left behind” could secure academic and vocational skills/qualifications. It didn’t quite pan out that way.  

However, the concept of lifelong skills development has always been ingrained within me. The pandemic has also turned this up a notch. There are lots of free resources around. 

 

Even if these don’t have an obvious economic benefit, the more skills we can cultivate, the greater our autonomy. Predictably, frame-building courses have often captured my imagination but more recently, a less prescriptive machinists/ paint spraying/similar course has superseded this.      

 

Sticky Fingers

A few weeks back, I established the Soma Condor https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/soma  swap was the icing on my Univega’s cake. No change in several hundred miles, since. However, the reclaimed Lizard Skins DSP bar tape https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/lizard-skins-dsp  was beginning to look slightly tired in places. Time was when a cable change meant the bar wrap (especially budget) was also bin fodder. Most bar tapes seem tolerant of being re/wound, even after they’ve weathered a bit.

Shot peened or sand blasted handlebars also seem to assist adhesion. However, the former process is generally employed to subvert potential stress fractures. The progressive availability of naturally sticky silicone wraps, including the Acros Silicone Wrap Handlebar Tape https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/acros-silicone-wrap-handlebar-tape?03991cc70fae5915&1a5858d9151d7237&455dde74ef8b80c5&4f3abceb41656d72&632cba28282213  and Genetic https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/genetic-silicone-bar-wrap  are easily rewound and reapplied following cable changes and are otherwise durable, too.

As an anecdotal average, I seem to get three cable changes from a mid to upper end adhesive backed bar tape. Around three thousand miles before the material begins looking jaded; loses its specialist properties; or shows more serious signs of fatigue. Leather is more durable (and usually with a consummate price tag).

With periodic use of hide food (which keeps the leather nourished and supple) I’ve had three years and six cable changes before contemplating replacement. Obviously not an option for vegan riders and often slippery to start with. Silicone and sophisticated polymer wrap also requires more care when cleaning.

Strong solvents and stiff brushes with often strip their coatings, or age them prematurely. I’ve found this Oxford Tyre Scrub https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/oxford-products-tyre-scrub  and Duck Smart The Black Stuff Chain Cleaner an excellent combination, for lifting ingrained grime. That said; we are talking a gentle, sustained pressure here.

Extra UK www.extrauk.co.uk  have kindly sent me this Fizik Vento Microtex Tacky Tape to test. According to Fizik, the Vento family are “Race bred tapes for ultimate control and reduced weight”. Apparently “The tacky film surface with raised texture facilitates grip in every condition”.

Its 2mm (compared with the Lizard Skins DSP’s 2.5mm) so the comparison will be interesting. Fizik also suggest the smaller density benefits riders with smaller hands. I have long willowy digits, so the latter benefit may be lost on me. However, on paper it’s a tangible benefit.  

There’s a definite knack to achieving graceful flowing lines. Bind carefully, patiently and when free of distraction. Unless of course, you’re a pro mechanic. Now pedants will say black and white are shades, not colours. 

I wasn’t sure whether the white would blend successfully with the Univega’s cream and black two-tone theme. However, by my reckoning, with the SPD pedals, Orp smart horn https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/orp-smart-horn and mudguard detailing, it works a treat. Some minor points aside, I’ve also reached my conclusions regarding the Prendas Ciclismo  Lisboa Waterproof Cycling Cap https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/prendas-ciclismo-lisboa-waterproof-

Continuing this waste not, want not narrative, I’ve decided to run the Weldtite TF2 All Weather Performance Lubricant for the time being, see how many miles I can accumulate, before switching to the Juice Lubes Ceramic. The former is a mix of ISO oils, additives and PTFE, which keeps friction remarkably low.

Presumably it’s the additives keeping it stable in all temperatures. A Canadian rider reckons it’s the first lube he’s used, capable of remaining effective at minus 32 degrees. Viscosity also lends it very nicely to cleat/locking mechanisms, as a corrosion inhibitor for electroplated fasteners and even frame-ends.

PTFE is both friend and foe. The ubiquitous slippery compound is dirt cheap and very effective, in the friction busting stakes. Its also relatively toxic, hence I minimise my own exposure. Latex examination gloves are donned when applying greases and often when stripping lubes. Where possible, I avoid using PTFE based chain lubes in contexts where I’m riding close to rivers and similar waterways.   

Lighting permitting, I’ve always found myself riding faster at night and I’ve concluded it’s psychological. Gradients become smaller because you cannot perceive their size, in the same fashion you would, during daylight. Focus is upon maintaining a decent tempo. Dark roads also inspire a more reflective mood.

A means of processing complex thoughts and ideas. I usually return from a ride feeling energised and with a new sense of perspective. Copy I’ve been struggling with, often seems to write itself. I have recently been coming to terms with my elderly farm cat’s demise. Kidney and cardiovascular failure forced the issue.  All we can ask for is a fulfilling life and a merciful end. He had both.  

I’m also an introvert. A much maligned and misunderstood personality type. Contrary to popular misconception, introverts are not shy, or socially awkward. People intrigue me and I consider myself adept at reading people and their motivations. Engaged, loquacious and emotionally intelligent, in professional contexts, I also need time to retreat and recharge. Long steady night rides are an obvious conduit.

Tart's Handbag?

 

Spare cone cum spacer arrived for the Halo Aerotrack hub, so I wasted no time in drizzling some green oil eco grease on the threads and winding it home. After a bit of deliberation, I opted to run the Titanium sprocket, checking this had a generous helping of waterproof synthetic grease.

Sat between it and the hub’s aluminium alloy threads. In this instance I’ve gone for White Lightning crystal grease https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/white-lightning-crystal-grease  which seems particularly dependable. However, given this bike serves year round, I will be inspecting more frequently than those adorning the On-one Inbred hub. Remiss of me.

Seems the right hand EAI sprocket and lockring have formed a particularly stubborn union with the aluminium alloy hub threads.  I’ve tried liberal marinades of high quality penetrant/release sprays before introducing lockring spanners, chain whips and primal grunting. Nope, won’t budge. So I’ve put it down and will revisit when inspiration strikes.

Where possible, I like to keep components going-if they’re basically in good order but I’m beginning to wonder-if I’m going the wheel build route, salvage might be false economy. The last thing I want is a freshly built wheel, only for the hub to conk out in spectacular fashion shortly afterward!

So, I am researching alternatives. System EX units were nicely executed budget options, though it’s not clear if they’re still in production. Three times the price but Surly also produce some nice small flange double fixed hubs with more sophisticated bearings…Nonetheless, in the meantime, I’m relieved I held on to the Halo and will make very good use of it.

Staying on the subject of lubes and other fluid tooling, Green Oil have sent us their new Ecospray lube. PTFE and petrochemical free. PTFE (often known as Teflon), was discovered by accident in the 1930s are remains pretty ubiquitous. Not just in engineering applications either; non-stick cooking utensils, carpets and socks being three that immediately spring to mind.

On the plus side, Teflon lubes and greases are cheap, surprisingly effective and reasonably durable. However, it’s not kind to organic/aquatic life and is widely thought to be connected to heart, thyroid and lung conditions.

Repacking hub bearings, headsets, pedals and bottom bracket threads every few months and doing so eight hours a day, 5/6 days every week for thirty years present two very different levels of risk.

The same goes for classic car/motorcycle enthusiasts and professional mechanics, when talking exposure to swarf and other carcinogens found in used motor oil.

I wear latex/similar examination gloves when working with petrochemicals. I must admit that I’m not so fastidious when giving cables and mechanisms a quick squirt, or lubricating chains.  

 So then, to the maintenance spray.

Well, I wasn’t surprised to learn the stock is that, used in their wet chain lube. However, achieving the spray-able consistency requires a greater ratio of plant based solvent.

Some folks will argue that butane/propane propellant put a dent in the eco-friendly credentials but I’m assure quantities involved present minimal impact to environment and user alike.

So far, I’ve used it on the teenage dream’s Regina freewheel, cleat mechanisms and assorted brake cables. The rich yellowy layer could almost pass for a heavyweight PTFE potion, the sort that will, in a pinch double as a summer chain lube. Several weeks and more varied use should give a better indication of its strengths and, where appropriate, weaknesses/limitations.