Showing posts with label chain breakage. Show all posts
Showing posts with label chain breakage. Show all posts

Wednesday, 11 January 2023

Forced Hand AKA the Chain Again...












Upon reflection, Ursula had been trying to tell me something. There had been a periodic click, which I had initially attributed to a cleat not being fully engaged, or the rear mech’s barrel adjuster needing a quick tweak. However, the sudden increased loading on a climb saw it implode irreparably. Not something spare links would solve, so a 7-mile saunter home, which gave plenty of scope for reflection.  


Mercifully, I didn’t have to be anywhere until early afternoon, so that took some immediate pressure off. Upon my return, I nipped in for some warmth and to find one of the spare KMC I’d squirreled away. One transpired not to be what I’d requested but I still had a ready cut (106 links) electroplated model, so on it went- using the Magic Link joining system. Not something I’m a major fan of, but it didn’t give me any hassle on this very chilly morning, so we’ll see how it fares.  


Next thing I knew, A gooey mess was lining and coating some tools and other “to hand” essentials in a storage box, so I brewed up a bath of Citrus degreaser with warm water. Gave everything a good tickling with a medium-stiff brush-including the box itself, before rinsing and drying. This time, I lined the base with a bin bag to subvert another gooey encounter. Maybe fate was intervening with my best interests in mind... 


Staying with cleaning, Madison sent me this Finish Line Brush Set, which looks cracking value for money. Time and lots of seasonal scrubbing will confirm, one way or the other. They also sent me their Road Race Superlight Men’s Waterproof Softshell Jacket. A lightweight water and windproof model that packs super small (to the size of a 500ml (about 16.91 oz) water bottle), yet in theory offers decent protection from the elements. 


Letting imagination and fingers wander, I found myself contemplating long cage mechs and 11-32 cassettes for Ursula.  


Thankfully, the voice of reason and serviceable bank balances piped up. This was not the best use of my resources. Double checking confirmed the short cage Tiagra mech will manage 28 teeth- apparently, that’s with a road double, so according to my addled reasoning, a 32-tooth 1x10 mtb setup should be just fine. Measured in inches, rather than “gain” this will give me 74.9 and 29.4 high/low, respectively. More punch when descending, and more grunt when climbing.  


With this in mind, I found an 11-28 tooth Microshift cassette with an electroplated finish for £10 and would introduce that, once the existing KMC X10.73 needed retiring. One thing led to another, and I found myself reflecting on spare wheels. I had stripped a Deore hub from a dead rim nearly two years previously and reckoned it would “come in handy”. 

 

I’d decided it was time to build a decent spare rear wheel for the old girl- ready for duty when the XT/ Rigida Sputnik build wanted some truing and/or general maintenance. 26-inch (559) hoops are still readily available, but I wanted something suitably durable, but without the heft of its bombproof Andra40 cousin. A 32-hole Ryde Zac 19 came under my radar and less than £20. I’m very fond of Araya and Mavic rims but I’m not prepared to pay fancy prices for them, let alone anything with a “vintage” tag.  


Enter stripping, inspecting, and rebuilding the Deore with new bearings and the Juice Lubes Bearing Juice. 18 ¼ balls are what’s needed here, and I bought genuine Shimano. Given their price, there's absolutely no sense in going for anything lower rent, or indeed, opening the hub and re-using the existing balls.  


Dismantling these cup and cone hubs is remarkably simple and requires a couple of basic tools. In this instance, a 15mm cone wrench and a 17mm for the locknut, some stocky waterproof grease.  


The Deore opened with reassuring ease and the grease was closer to an oily gravy, but still offering some protection/lubrication. No pitting, or corrosion in the balls but as I said; better to replace them. I blitzed any residual grease with Green Oil Agent Apple Extreme Immersion Degreaser TESTED: GREE OIL AGENT APPLE EXTREME IMMERSION DEGREASER (sevendaycyclist.com), then rinsed with fresh water.  


Dried thoroughly, I packed the hubs with Juice Lubes Bearing Juice and then added 9 fresh balls each side. Being a seriously tenacious synthetic, they hold the balls super securely- I was able to switch to the freehub side without fear of them falling out.  


A little extra grease on the bearings (for improved protection) and axle, I slid the latter through the freehub side, adjusted the cones so a tiny amount of play presented before holding the cone secure and winding the locknut home. Satisfyingly smooth once more.  


As tends to happen, no sooner had I done that, then this Halo Spin Doctor arrived. Sealed bearings this time and reckoned to be closer to the Shimano XT, it’s a more obvious choice for a brand new build/ One I’ve left in the extremely capable hands of Mick Madgett. 

 

Tuesday, 9 March 2021

Spitting the Dummy









Having updated the old girls’ transmission, some might say, bringing it into the 21st century, Ursula decided she wasn’t impressed with the KMC and wanted something more refined. A sentiment palpable when said chain imploded 200 metres from home. Some pondering followed by fevered rummaging in the transmission box unearthed this gold superlight model. 

 

One which also feels more robust than the KMC. Of the two joining systems, I much prefer connecting pins over quick links. Both need to be replaced when you’ve performed a removal but being as I tend to get 1250miles from a chain and rarely remove, I’ll stick to cleaning it in situ. 


Performing well thus far, long may it continue. I ran it on the factory lube during the “shakedown” period but went over to the Squirt Cold weather chain lube, since conditions are relevant.  While doing a supermarket run, I happened upon this brush, which looked the right profile for scrubbing chains and cassettes.  


Now, there are some people who dogmatically insist that household cleaning products are the answer to everything. Until of course, the harsh kitchen cleaner dulls expensive finishes and/or damages small components, such as seals. I do, however, recognise there are some useful crossovers. Beeswax furniture polishes being one of my favourite staples. Will be interesting to see how effective and moreover, durable this bargain-basement brush is.

   

As for the gearing, well, it’s a little lower than I might consider ideal for tarmac duties but “spin out” hasn’t been an issue thus far. Some would argue in favour of 2x10 but the whole point of going the 1X route, was a lack of complication while shaving a few grams into the bargain.  


I’m contemplating a planned upgrade of the rear wheel, while we’re at the phased replacement, rather than obligatory stage. The Deore hub is inexpensive and generally reliable but if I’m going to upgrade the hub, I may as well upgrade the complete wheel, since the inexpensive rim will be showing some signs of wear and penny-pinching costs more in terms of time hassle and ultimately, money.     


Drive pins tend to be the weakest spot on multi-tools. The KMC claimed that belonging to this cheerful Topeak Alien Homage. For the time being, I’ve switched to a Crank Brothers F15, which boasts a fair complement of tools catering for most situations.  


However, I still need a 6,8 and 10mm socket wrench to tackle the bike’s corresponding fasteners-brake straddle wires, specifically. The more obvious thing would be to carry a stand-alone chain tool, but I don’t fancy the additional heft and annoying tool kit percussion.  

A reminder to perform regular tool/spares inventories, rather than getting caught out on a cold, dark and rainy night...Talking of which, I’ve reached my conclusions regarding the Ravemen CLO5 Sensored Rear Light RAVEMEN CL05 SENSORED REAR LIGHT | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) 

If you need a model with a braking function, its bigger brother, the CLO6 RAVEMEN CL06 SENSORED REAR LIGHT | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) I’m really fond of both units and find them more than adequate for the darkest lanes. Neither employ an official daylight running mode, which may be a deal-breaker for some, although I still find their presence quite useful, especially on overcast days.  


It's been chill here, by UK standards-single figures, so I have stuck with the FLR Defender MTB Thermal Dry S-Tex Boot.FLR DEFENDER MTB DRY BOOT | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) I usually don a heavier weight gilet, atop a jersey cum jacket type layer to block invasive wind chill. 


Chill that can otherwise result in a lingering and painful chest infection. March can be a tricky month weather-wise. Conditions where easily packable gilets, arm warmers, glove liners, etc can make all the difference to rider comfort.