Frazzled Freehub?

 

There we were, minding our own business, bimbling along the lanes when the glitch became a low grumble. Ursula’s chain began jumping and the freehub began to lock up when I attempted to freewheel. Yes, the Halo Spin Doctor’s freehub was protesting 8 miles from home. No river riding, Jet washing, or similar abuse and I’d only done a few weeks riding since it was replaced in December.  

Mercifully, my default constant cadence, developed through many years riding fixed meant we could scoot back at 12-14mph. Pedestrian perhaps but infinitely preferable to walking home. Switching to XT/Ryde wheel with recently upgraded bearings, loaded with Juice Lubes Bearing Juice solved the immediate issue. However, it left me with something of a conundrum. 

An email and subsequent telephone chat with Ison-Distribution suggested it could just be wet, gritty stuff creeping inside along the lanes. I also learned the unit has a grease port, something I consider a godsend for easy maintenance and long component life. Sure, you’ll still need to strip and inspect bearings, races etc but it means they’ll have plenty of lubrication and are protected from the elements in-between. On the advice of Ison Distibution’s MD, I pumped grease into the freehub’s port until some brown gooey stuff bled out. Cleaned up and dropped some middleweight wet lube into the port.    

Then my mind went into overdrive... 

I could always retrieve the lowlier Deore- a decent enough hub but the seals and other components aren’t as you’d expect, to the same standard. Given the mileage and four seasons’ service involved, I’d be better served by the XT, and it would ultimately work out cheaper, long term. There were some interesting hubs but too pricey for a gamble, especially on the spares front. No rush... 

The fixed’s Un300 square taper bottom bracket is still turning away smoothly three years on. Testament to it (and the UN52 and 55 predecessors) build quality. I’m not the only rider who has returned nigh on 10,000 miles (about 16093.44 km) before they’ve turned sloppy, or grumbly. For context, while some of the patterns have served me well, they’ve hit the bin at 6,000 miles (about 9656.06 km). I may well go for this Genetic Cromozone Cromozone Sealed BB | Ison Distribution (ison-distribution.com next time.  

To lubes. The Blub ceramic is supposedly unsuitable for damp to wet conditions, but I’ve been pleasantly surprised by how it stayed put, despite being exposed to wet, greasy roads, not to mention blasted with deep, dodgy puddle water.  

I was surprised to find Ursula’s left Microshift bar con rotating in the bar ends. An easy fix- simply a matter of popping in a 4mm Allen key, separating the lever from mount, introducing a 5mm into the expander wedge and turning counter-clockwise.  

An opportunity to use this Muc Off 17in1 multi tool, which I’d received for testing. It’s a compact model with 17 functions and thus far, only a few, minor compromises have revealed themselves. When choosing multi tools, in my experience much will depend on your bikes, their age and genre.  

Compact models such as the Muc Off work best on contemporary bikes, including, but not restricted to smaller framesets. Multi tools are designed for quick tune ups and get out of a jam repairs, not workshop duties.  

However, tourists, or those on group rides might find Topeak’s Alien, or this Passport CDWPASSPORT CDW MULTITOOL | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) a better bet. Talking of touring, functions such as spoke keys tend to be a little basic, and not the nicest to use, so you’re better served packing a dedicated key.  

I’d also suggest packing a separate, long-ish  L shaped key for recessed fasteners, such as those found on brake levers/brifters and of course, any specialist tooling for your bike, tagalong, trailer etc. Same goes for tyre levers, and applies to the Alien and CDW, although these are the better of the grouping.  

Strangely enough, while the ergonomics of more expensive standalone composite levers mean they’re nicer to use, some of the most dependable models are the bargain basement nylon types usually found in puncture repair kit bundles. Thorn Cycles 20 function Multi Tool comes complete with a Rohloff compatible bit. Mine still serves me well, although 16 years down the line, corrosion has made itself known in places. Last lube biased mention for this entry, my review of Muc-Off MO94 https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/muc-off-mo94-multi-use-spray  

The Leatt Jacket MTB Endurance 2.0 has become my default, given its lightweight, yet highly windproof, water-repelling and quick wicking properties. The perforated back and arm panels ensure a steady supply of cooling air, while keeping the chill and moderate showery rains at bay and it's so light, I’m only noticing its positive qualities.  

It also packs small, taking up minimal space in bike luggage, although it will certainly fill a jersey pocket. I’ve been alternating between bib long and bib knickers, given the season but I’m also looking forward to putting the Endurance Bib shorts through their paces once the temperatures get milder.  

There’s the usual detailing I’d expect from a premium garment- mesh bibs and braces, SPF50+ UV protection and a 4-layer Italian chamois pad, reckoned good for 7 hours of XC trail riding, which also bodes well for long, steady road miles, too.  

Pockets have become an increasingly common sight on bib shorts, especially those geared towards gravel and mountain biking audiences. Madison’s Roam Madison Roam Men's Cargo Bib Shorts | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) being prime examples, although theirs is designed to port bigger items including phones. Gloves and other things you might want easy access to. Leatt has suggested theirs is intended for a communication radio, but I think it’s a good bet for energy bars and other essentials.  

I could don Lycra knee warmers, since these are designed to extend a garments wearability, say in autumn, or early spring, where the weather can switch from warm sun to chill rain at the drop of a hat. However, I appreciate their benefits. Those I’ve tested tend to slowly work their way down, exposing skin, while being annoying, into the bargain.   Could wear them beneath messenger knickers, though…Watch this space. 

Forced Hand AKA the Chain Again...

Upon reflection, Ursula had been trying to tell me something. There had been a periodic click, which I had initially attributed to a cleat not being fully engaged, or the rear mech’s barrel adjuster needing a quick tweak. However, the sudden increased loading on a climb saw it implode irreparably. Not something spare links would solve, so a 7-mile saunter home, which gave plenty of scope for reflection.  

Mercifully, I didn’t have to be anywhere until early afternoon, so that took some immediate pressure off. Upon my return, I nipped in for some warmth and to find one of the spare KMC I’d squirreled away. One transpired not to be what I’d requested but I still had a ready cut (106 links) electroplated model, so on it went- using the Magic Link joining system. Not something I’m a major fan of, but it didn’t give me any hassle on this very chilly morning, so we’ll see how it fares.  

Next thing I knew, A gooey mess was lining and coating some tools and other “to hand” essentials in a storage box, so I brewed up a bath of Citrus degreaser with warm water. Gave everything a good tickling with a medium-stiff brush-including the box itself, before rinsing and drying. This time, I lined the base with a bin bag to subvert another gooey encounter. Maybe fate was intervening with my best interests in mind... 

Staying with cleaning, Madison sent me this Finish Line Brush Set, which looks cracking value for money. Time and lots of seasonal scrubbing will confirm, one way or the other. They also sent me their Road Race Superlight Men’s Waterproof Softshell Jacket. A lightweight water and windproof model that packs super small (to the size of a 500ml (about 16.91 oz) water bottle), yet in theory offers decent protection from the elements. 

Letting imagination and fingers wander, I found myself contemplating long cage mechs and 11-32 cassettes for Ursula.  

Thankfully, the voice of reason and serviceable bank balances piped up. This was not the best use of my resources. Double checking confirmed the short cage Tiagra mech will manage 28 teeth- apparently, that’s with a road double, so according to my addled reasoning, a 32-tooth 1x10 mtb setup should be just fine. Measured in inches, rather than “gain” this will give me 74.9 and 29.4 high/low, respectively. More punch when descending, and more grunt when climbing.  

With this in mind, I found an 11-28 tooth Microshift cassette with an electroplated finish for £10 and would introduce that, once the existing KMC X10.73 needed retiring. One thing led to another, and I found myself reflecting on spare wheels. I had stripped a Deore hub from a dead rim nearly two years previously and reckoned it would “come in handy”. 

 

I’d decided it was time to build a decent spare rear wheel for the old girl- ready for duty when the XT/ Rigida Sputnik build wanted some truing and/or general maintenance. 26-inch (559) hoops are still readily available, but I wanted something suitably durable, but without the heft of its bombproof Andra40 cousin. A 32-hole Ryde Zac 19 came under my radar and less than £20. I’m very fond of Araya and Mavic rims but I’m not prepared to pay fancy prices for them, let alone anything with a “vintage” tag.  

Enter stripping, inspecting, and rebuilding the Deore with new bearings and the Juice Lubes Bearing Juice. 18 ¼ balls are what’s needed here, and I bought genuine Shimano. Given their price, there's absolutely no sense in going for anything lower rent, or indeed, opening the hub and re-using the existing balls.  

Dismantling these cup and cone hubs is remarkably simple and requires a couple of basic tools. In this instance, a 15mm cone wrench and a 17mm for the locknut, some stocky waterproof grease.  

The Deore opened with reassuring ease and the grease was closer to an oily gravy, but still offering some protection/lubrication. No pitting, or corrosion in the balls but as I said; better to replace them. I blitzed any residual grease with Green Oil Agent Apple Extreme Immersion Degreaser TESTED: GREE OIL AGENT APPLE EXTREME IMMERSION DEGREASER (sevendaycyclist.com), then rinsed with fresh water.  

Dried thoroughly, I packed the hubs with Juice Lubes Bearing Juice and then added 9 fresh balls each side. Being a seriously tenacious synthetic, they hold the balls super securely- I was able to switch to the freehub side without fear of them falling out.  

A little extra grease on the bearings (for improved protection) and axle, I slid the latter through the freehub side, adjusted the cones so a tiny amount of play presented before holding the cone secure and winding the locknut home. Satisfyingly smooth once more.  

As tends to happen, no sooner had I done that, then this Halo Spin Doctor arrived. Sealed bearings this time and reckoned to be closer to the Shimano XT, it’s a more obvious choice for a brand new build/ One I’ve left in the extremely capable hands of Mick Madgett.