Momentum, Spuds & Mounts

 

I knew THAT idea was becoming the ONLY idea...The urge to switch Ursula's bar, stem, and brake levers. However, I wanted to avoid being midway through the transplant only to be thwarted by a spacer, or control cable- I strongly suspected the Jagwire Road Elite Sealed Cable Jagwire Road Elite Sealed Brake Kit | cycling-not-racing outers would be a little short at key points. Happy to take my time but crucially get things bang on first time and as with so many things, forward planning is key. I was also trying to trace some Shimano M505 pedals. These had long been succeeded, some might say eclipsed by the legendary 520 but I was curious as to where mine had vanished to.

Presented a good time to strip and re-grease the legendary original 1990 Spuds and I knew precisely where these were.  Balmy weather had seen me spend several weeks racking up a few hundred miles aboard the Holdsworth, enjoying its minimalist, spirited charms.  Clearly, it didn't appreciate the Garmin light mount, which I discovered ejected to an inaccessible part of the garage. This prompted a switch from the ultra-compact Magicshine Allty 400 to Ravemen LR1000 Ravemen LR 1000 Curved Lens Front Light | cycling-not-racing, which is a similarly compact light with a lot more useable power and thanks to the clever optics, much brighter than numbers alone would suggest.

Same goes for its 500-lumen sibling RAVEMEN LR500S FRONT LIGHT | cycling-not-racing. However, the 1000lumens ensures I can navigate the darker lanes, should I find myself out longer than intended on a summer evening.  Staying with lights, Gaciron got in touch and sent me their recently launched Xiaoman 1000 Multifunctional All-in-One Professional Outdoor Front light.

Aside from being a bike light, it's designed for other outdoor activities, including night fishing and hiking. Thanks to the diffusers, it could double as a reading lamp-it may also prove useful in photographic applications- we'll see. The Xiaoman 1000 will also double as a power bank and features a 5000mAh battery.

The highest 1000 lumen mode is claimed to have an illumination range of 200 metres and 2 hours runtime. I was pleased by the sensible staircasing downwards- 600, 300, 100 lumens catering for most riding contexts-great news for urban riders who like to let their hair down along the backroads, or ride through a variety of environments.

There's also a 300-lumen day flash reckoned good for 35 hours between charges and a "Breathe" mode alternating between 50 and 100lumens. Characteristics that lend it nicely to dynamo companionship. IPX6 for weatherproofing and aluminium construction bodes well for durability. There are three colour options-I've gone for black, but white or pink are the alternatives.

It can be mounted atop, or beneath the bars for a sleek, uncluttered effect, courtesy of the symmetrical optics, which is increasingly standard but welcome, nonetheless. I was very slightly disappointed to note the remote is only offered as an aftermarket option- I'd rather see this thrown in with the package, even if it meant upping the price by a couple of quid. 

Gaciron aren't alone in this omission but it's a niggle of mine.  I’m not endeared to the OEM mount design, which is very similar to that employed by Cat-Eye and prone to slippage. I’m looking into a suitable out-front extension mount. The sort that attaches via the stem face, theoretically eliminating the slippage, especially when paired with this Coospo Real Road CS600 GPS Bike Computer Coospo CS600 GPS | cycling-not-racing

 Having popped the Holdsworth back on its hook, having racked up some proper miles and fully reacquainted myself with Cinelli’s Classic Cork Wrap, Muffin and I have settled to some serious miles with the Genetic H-Grip Handlebar Tape, which is proving grippy and supportive. The 18-tooth sprocket has given some welcome additional torque on the climbs-especially when traffic’s slower, or I’m stuck behind a tractor.

It has also led to contemplating a slightly lower ratio for the Holdsworth, but we are talking the contemplative phase, and I do like the taller ratio when belting along. Presently, we’re turning a 79.1-inch gear, switching to a 17tooth would mean 74.5. I’ll give it further thought and may take this route, should I ned to switch a tyre. The Freedom Thick Slick is a very durable slick with great puncture-repelling qualities, but I’ve noted some very subtle deterioration of the sidewall.

One that’s not setting my Lycra ablaze but will be monitored carefully. A blowout might be amusing for onlookers, but I’ve no intention of being the object of someone else’s ridicule. I’d also toyed with upgrading the bottom bracket for a Genetic Karyotype and indeed, taking that route with Muffin next time (although arguably the Karyotype’s minor weight savings don’t justify the additional cost on a trainer, or working bike). I’ll either go for another UN300, or Genetic Cromozone.

Some folks have commented that the Stronglight track 2000 crankset is “made of cheese” citing stripped threads, specifically. I’ve not had any issues, although it’s worth saying I’m religious when it comes to re/greasing threaded components.  That said, should I ever need to retire it, I’d go for another Genetic Tibia GENETIC TIBIA TRACK CRANKS & RING | cycling-not-racing- in silver and possibly 165mm (they’re available in 165, 170 and 175mm).

 

Frazzled Freehub?

 

There we were, minding our own business, bimbling along the lanes when the glitch became a low grumble. Ursula’s chain began jumping and the freehub began to lock up when I attempted to freewheel. Yes, the Halo Spin Doctor’s freehub was protesting 8 miles from home. No river riding, Jet washing, or similar abuse and I’d only done a few weeks riding since it was replaced in December.  

Mercifully, my default constant cadence, developed through many years riding fixed meant we could scoot back at 12-14mph. Pedestrian perhaps but infinitely preferable to walking home. Switching to XT/Ryde wheel with recently upgraded bearings, loaded with Juice Lubes Bearing Juice solved the immediate issue. However, it left me with something of a conundrum. 

An email and subsequent telephone chat with Ison-Distribution suggested it could just be wet, gritty stuff creeping inside along the lanes. I also learned the unit has a grease port, something I consider a godsend for easy maintenance and long component life. Sure, you’ll still need to strip and inspect bearings, races etc but it means they’ll have plenty of lubrication and are protected from the elements in-between. On the advice of Ison Distibution’s MD, I pumped grease into the freehub’s port until some brown gooey stuff bled out. Cleaned up and dropped some middleweight wet lube into the port.    

Then my mind went into overdrive... 

I could always retrieve the lowlier Deore- a decent enough hub but the seals and other components aren’t as you’d expect, to the same standard. Given the mileage and four seasons’ service involved, I’d be better served by the XT, and it would ultimately work out cheaper, long term. There were some interesting hubs but too pricey for a gamble, especially on the spares front. No rush... 

The fixed’s Un300 square taper bottom bracket is still turning away smoothly three years on. Testament to it (and the UN52 and 55 predecessors) build quality. I’m not the only rider who has returned nigh on 10,000 miles (about 16093.44 km) before they’ve turned sloppy, or grumbly. For context, while some of the patterns have served me well, they’ve hit the bin at 6,000 miles (about 9656.06 km). I may well go for this Genetic Cromozone Cromozone Sealed BB | Ison Distribution (ison-distribution.com next time.  

To lubes. The Blub ceramic is supposedly unsuitable for damp to wet conditions, but I’ve been pleasantly surprised by how it stayed put, despite being exposed to wet, greasy roads, not to mention blasted with deep, dodgy puddle water.  

I was surprised to find Ursula’s left Microshift bar con rotating in the bar ends. An easy fix- simply a matter of popping in a 4mm Allen key, separating the lever from mount, introducing a 5mm into the expander wedge and turning counter-clockwise.  

An opportunity to use this Muc Off 17in1 multi tool, which I’d received for testing. It’s a compact model with 17 functions and thus far, only a few, minor compromises have revealed themselves. When choosing multi tools, in my experience much will depend on your bikes, their age and genre.  

Compact models such as the Muc Off work best on contemporary bikes, including, but not restricted to smaller framesets. Multi tools are designed for quick tune ups and get out of a jam repairs, not workshop duties.  

However, tourists, or those on group rides might find Topeak’s Alien, or this Passport CDWPASSPORT CDW MULTITOOL | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) a better bet. Talking of touring, functions such as spoke keys tend to be a little basic, and not the nicest to use, so you’re better served packing a dedicated key.  

I’d also suggest packing a separate, long-ish  L shaped key for recessed fasteners, such as those found on brake levers/brifters and of course, any specialist tooling for your bike, tagalong, trailer etc. Same goes for tyre levers, and applies to the Alien and CDW, although these are the better of the grouping.  

Strangely enough, while the ergonomics of more expensive standalone composite levers mean they’re nicer to use, some of the most dependable models are the bargain basement nylon types usually found in puncture repair kit bundles. Thorn Cycles 20 function Multi Tool comes complete with a Rohloff compatible bit. Mine still serves me well, although 16 years down the line, corrosion has made itself known in places. Last lube biased mention for this entry, my review of Muc-Off MO94 https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/muc-off-mo94-multi-use-spray  

The Leatt Jacket MTB Endurance 2.0 has become my default, given its lightweight, yet highly windproof, water-repelling and quick wicking properties. The perforated back and arm panels ensure a steady supply of cooling air, while keeping the chill and moderate showery rains at bay and it's so light, I’m only noticing its positive qualities.  

It also packs small, taking up minimal space in bike luggage, although it will certainly fill a jersey pocket. I’ve been alternating between bib long and bib knickers, given the season but I’m also looking forward to putting the Endurance Bib shorts through their paces once the temperatures get milder.  

There’s the usual detailing I’d expect from a premium garment- mesh bibs and braces, SPF50+ UV protection and a 4-layer Italian chamois pad, reckoned good for 7 hours of XC trail riding, which also bodes well for long, steady road miles, too.  

Pockets have become an increasingly common sight on bib shorts, especially those geared towards gravel and mountain biking audiences. Madison’s Roam Madison Roam Men's Cargo Bib Shorts | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) being prime examples, although theirs is designed to port bigger items including phones. Gloves and other things you might want easy access to. Leatt has suggested theirs is intended for a communication radio, but I think it’s a good bet for energy bars and other essentials.  

I could don Lycra knee warmers, since these are designed to extend a garments wearability, say in autumn, or early spring, where the weather can switch from warm sun to chill rain at the drop of a hat. However, I appreciate their benefits. Those I’ve tested tend to slowly work their way down, exposing skin, while being annoying, into the bargain.   Could wear them beneath messenger knickers, though…Watch this space. 

Chain Strain

I’ve found it difficult to get inexpensive, yet durable track chains these days. After 1500 miles, the 1/2link KMC is heading on up to the Great Bike Shop in the Sky. I’ve gone for two, another KMC-a Z510 and a Z1X hopefully, it’ll be as faithful, albeit potentially less durable than the Z1 X Inox SEVEN DAY CYCLIST'S 3000 MILE TEST OF A KMC INOX CHAIN The one minor niggle with the latter concerned the inox finish being too slippery, encouraging lubes to migrate from the rollers and to the side plates.  

Tension is a hotly debated topic and for some reason, I’ve found it trickier to get it just-so with ½ link models. I don’t tend to deviate from a 42x15 (ring and sprocket) configuration.  

The Z1X is a traditional single link design, so I had a wander around the web and discovered a chain-link calculator that promised to generate the correct (rounded up) length. (based upon chainstay length, ring, and sprocket size) ...Using said system, the chain for my set up should be 48 links long, which seems ridiculously short.  

Took a guess, using the dead ½ link, pruned and popped aboard. Tension adjusted and track nuts snugged tight, ready for the road again.  Roads are perpetually filthy but thankfully, the gritting lorries have been conspicuous by their absence. 

Post-ride examination of the drivetrain confirmed some minor but tangible play in its UN55 cartridge bottom bracket. I took this opportunity to replace it with a UN300, since the UN55 is seemingly discontinued. 

There’s one waiting in the wings for the Univega, once it’s existing gets the grumbles and a UN26 somewhere, just in case. 

However, while the latter units are solid enough, I’m not particularly taken with the plastic cup. Otherwise, this family is ultra-reliable, fit n’ forget units. So much so, Murphy’s law dictates they will expire when the bike shop’s closed.   

Elsewhere, I decided to add some more lubricant to the Kinekt stem spring and elastomer, using Slip. Slip is vegetable-based, contains no solvent, and therefore, leaves more, composite-friendly lubricant behind.  

Feedback from Kinket’s engineering team suggests this should be the cure for any squeaking/creaking.  I’ve always found elastomer-based systems are low maintenance but run happiest with a moderate helping of synthetic (rubber-friendly) grease. I also found the medium spring can lead to bottoming out on longer road climbs, especially on the fixed (where I’m out of the saddle and placing most of my weight on the bars and pedals). Replacing springs is straightforward but getting the upper spring guide aligned proved trickier with the firmer option. 

   

I’m keeping their seat post clean and protected via larger wedge packs and have switched to an Axiom Grand Fondo, which aside from being super convenient size-wise, offers precisely the surface area to protect the moving components from wet stuff thrown up by the rear wheel.  

I will switch to the dedicated Kinekt model at some point, over Christmas. However, I am interested in testing compatibility with other brands, shapes, and sizes, including bike packing luggage. (Especially given it’s a design that’s also marketed at gravel audiences).  

In common with other suspension posts, including Cane Creek Thudbuster TESTED: CANE CREEK THUDBUSTER ST SEATPOST (sevendaycyclist.com)  there’s an aftermarket boot option to shield moving parts from the elements.  Elsewhere, while unpacking and investigating the storage boxes, I hit the helmet light jackpot, courtesy of this 550lumen Silva Pave’ Front light hailing from 2015. The lightweight, fossil shaped light gives a much purer arc of light than 550 lumens would suggest.