Lights, Transmission, Traction...

 

Small fasteners don’t tend to receive much thought, until/unless we drop one and it vanishes under the fridge, or pings off along a dark and lonely road, never to be seen again. Essentially, it’s good to keep a check on them and where possible, hold a few spares, just in case. I had a reminder this week, when the K-Lite Bike Packer Pro’s K LITE BIKEPACKER ULTRA DYNAMO LIGHT | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) mount screw made a bid for freedom, along a deserted backroad.  

My complacency, NOT a fault with Kerry’s design. Thankfully, I had a Zip Tie handy, so whipped the lamp back in situ and continued. Always good practice to carry a couple, just in case.  

Back at the garage, I had a quick forage in my little fasteners stash and thankfully, found a couple of compatible screws. A timely reminder to buy some more thread lock, too.  My fixed gear winter/trainer’s K-Lite Bikepacker ProV2 Front light K LITE BIKEPACKER PRO V2 FRONT LIGHT | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) had been flickering a little and a diode wasn’t firing on all cylinders.  

Chatting with Kerry State designer and owner suggested some water had possibly found its way inside the box component, damaging the PCB. Hopefully, I’ll acquire a replacement soon, but that might be a bit tricky, given the present combined chaos of COVID and Brexit. I was also gripped by the urge to give the bike a deep clean, switching back to the Halo Fix G Track hub, while the opportunity presented. HALO FIX G TRACK HUB | Seven Day Cyclist Tourin Tests Commuting 

Roads have once again become rivers but thankfully, the Zefal Extra Wet Nano Ceramic Chain lube ZEFAL EXTRA WET NANO CERAMIC CHAIN LUBE | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) is doing its thing, ditto the SKS Bluemels Shiny Mudguards ZEFAL EXTRA WET NANO CERAMIC CHAIN LUBE | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) and Raw Prismatic Reflective Mudflap RAW PRISMATIC REFLECTIVE MUDFLAPS | cycling, but not usually racing (sevendaycyclist.com) 

For a little while, I’d been reflecting on a new, suitable rear mudguard for my fixed gear winter/trainer. Over the last 15 years of ownership, I’ve run some very good, full-length chrome plastics. These offered excellent protection, but the machine has evolved from a road, to gravel configuration.  

Rear clip-ons offer decent rider protection while making wheel removal a touch easier and permitting me to run 35mm tyres in the rear triangle. I've successfully affixed Crud guards to the mono-stay too, using a big rubberised shim- a good setup, for the most part, hence it stayed for a few years.  

I’ve concluded, I wanted something lower-slung, with no risk of fouling bigger luggage-bike packing types being cases in point. A wide section, lower-slung design should subvert wet saddles and buttocks better. I’ll contemplate that while putting the Zefal Adventure R11 Waterproof Saddlebag through its paces-an an ideal opportunity to evaluate just how waterproof it is.  

Big brother to the R5, it features the same single compartment design and semi rigid construction but with some detailing, I really liked about the Passport Cycles Bike packing seatpack PASSPORT CYCLES BIKEPACKING SEAT PACK | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) including the ladder strap LED mounts and cargo net. Both have proved compatible with the Kinkekt2.1 Suspension Seatpost KINEKT 2.1 SUSPENSION SEAT POST | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) and the Redshift Sports Shockstop Suspension Seatpost REDSHIFT SHOCKSTOP SUSPENSION SEATPOST | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com), which is good news, given the increasing popularity of suspension posts on gravel/adventure bikes.  

 

Choppin' n' Changing

April remains decidedly chill, so I’m sticking with long sleeve base layers, 3/4lengths and bridge jackets (the jersey cum jacket type, that offer decent protection from chill and showers). Am delighted to report that the VDO3.1ML wireless computer is performing perfectly. No interference hassles with the Shutter Precision PD8 dyno hub https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/halo-rim-and-shutter-dynohub-disc-b

This wasn’t so with Knog’s lovable Nerd, or indeed my recently departed Frankenpute.  I’m also pleased with its positioning-nicely within my eyeline. Funny how those little things make all the difference. Talking of which, here’s my review of Genetic Neuron Accessory Bar https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/genetic-neuron-accessory-bar

Elsewhere, I’ve changed the bar tape. This seems to be more frequent than a politician switching stance. I wasn’t expecting the Acros Wrap Silicone Handlebar tape to contrast so nicely with my fixed gear winter/trainer’s colour scheme.

Blue was a more obvious (some might say, default) choice. Much to my surprise, the pumpkin orange contrasts beautifully. Silicone wraps are naturally tenacious, which has obvious advantages when riding in the wet. It also negates the need for adhesives, which is an obvious boon, for cable replacements, or indeed, bar swaps.

At 3mm thick, its an obvious option for gravel and cross riders. Its thicker and, uncut heavier than than other Silicone designs I’ve run for several seasons, including Genetic Flare Silicone Bar Wrap https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/genetic-silicone-bar-wrap

Allowing for some additional stretch, packet fresh, it measures 185cm. Ample for buxom flared designs, including the Soma Condor https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/soma-condor-2-shallow-drop-bars.

Uncut, its 59g heavier but trimming is to be expected. I’ve needed to lop a fair bit from ours, given these Genetic DRiser 16 are a little narrower. Wrapping requires a slightly firmer hand too and it’s shown an annoying tendency to unravel around the tops, so keep the finishing strips/electrical tape ready.

As for the Genetic D-Riser, they’re noticeably narrower than I’m used to, which gave the bike a slightly twitchy feel, for the first five miles. By this point, I’d acclimatised and was enjoying the ability to hunker lower and shelter from the headwind. I’ve continued to bond with them, as the past 100 miles have whizzed by.

Even on my traditional road bikes, I’ve gravitated towards this breed of flared bar. Primarily, because I find them more comfortable. I’m much broader across the shoulders than my build and stature suggest.

The Teenage Dream’s Salsa Bell lap being a prime example. The Bell Lap are no longer in production. In case you didn’t know, Bell Lap, refers to the final lap of a cyclo cross race, so something of a giveaway, in terms of intended audience.

Elsewhere, I’ve only just needed to replenish the Squirt Long Lasting Chain Wax. A very faint filmy patina remained, but the chain’s galvanised links were peeking through. I had toyed with a single coating but opted for two, leaving twenty minutes between.

Where possible, and appropriate, I leave lubes curing overnight. However, temperature allowing Squirt seems good, after four hours, or so. There’s also a cold weather version, which I would like to try, as a comparator.  

Staying with weather a moment, I received these Supacaz Spua G gloves. To me, they appear a liner type design, great for providing additional warmth on bitterly cold rides, or packing, should the temperatures suddenly drop on a spring evening ride. They are certainly thin enough to slip beneath skin mitts.

Seamless construction prevents chafing around the finger tips. SiliGrip refers to interesting silicone gripper pattern, which promises excellent purchase in all conditions.  Much the same promises as others, then.

The palm is Clarino, a faux leather hide, which promises to be hard wearing, flexible and temperate. I was surprised to discover they are marketed as a standalone glove. They’re incredibly thin, so I’m wondering if they’re going to keep numbness and tingling at bay, on their own, especially since they’re reckoned capable of coping with trail duties too. Hmm…Only one way to test these claims.

5W 40 The Motor Oil Challenge

Motor oil has always been cited as an alternative to bike specific wet lubes, especially during the winter months. Some swear by the 50/50 petrol diesel mix during the drier months.

Petrol’s solvent properties will race through any residual grot, leaving the diesel lubricant properties behind.

Lubes such as Finish Line 1-Step cleaner and lubricant, https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/finish-line  work to much the same principle.

These are effective enough and a better bet, if you’re mixing alchemy leaves something to be desired. Let me go one stage further. Petrochemicals are extremely flammable and potentially lethal, if not stored and administered, correctly.

DISCLAIMER: IF YOU ARE IN ANY DOUBT, DO NOT ATTEMPT TO BREW YOUR OWN. PURCHASE COMMERCIALLY AVAILABLE PRODUCTS, AND FOLLOW THEIR STORAGE/APPLICATION INSTRUCTIONS, TO THE LETTER.

So then, I’d been out on “the old girl” aka my rough stuff tourer, bumbling along the backroads and bridleways. Though a reasonable amount of waxy prep clung to its cassette, the chain was beginning to look a little too clean. 20 miles later, the familiar faint metal on metal tinkling was beginning to intrude.

Back home, I decided now was the time to give the bike a sudsy bucket wash and baste some Green Oil chain degreaser jelly into the drivetrain.

Now, choice of motor oil is very important. Modern synthetics employ specialist detergents. These are designed to keep the engine clean and be reconstituted within the engine’s oil pump. On a bicycle chain, these detergents will simply strip the lubricant properties. So, that familiar, faint metal-on-metal tinkling will strike-in as little as 30miles, in some instances.

Therefore, something basic, ideally 10w/40 or, as is the case here, a slightly more sophisticated (though cheap as chips) 5w/40 semi synthetic is what’s called for. I decanted a small quantity of the honey coloured lube into a dropper bottle and drizzled a drop into each link. Then any excess was purged from the side-plates, using some clean rag.  No hanging around, waiting for it to cure. Super slick, too.

My cross inspired fixed gear winter/trainer’s KMC Z1x inox chain https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/kmc-inox-chain  was also running out of waxy prep, so was also stripped. Yep, 5w/40 followed. Lube tenure on the slippery surface can be a lottery, so I’m not expecting the same Miles Per Application (MPA).

Staying with motor oils a moment, these also make an excellent basis for home brewed wax-based frame preserves. If you’re taxed for time and the frameset isn’t seeing harsh service… Adding a couple of tablespoons worth, of 10w/40 to its inner sanctum, will offer a reasonable amount of protection, against internal corrosion.

Winter bikes sporting decorative electroplate can succumb to the salt monster. My preference is for a high-quality polymer wax preserve. However, giving them a quick oily-rag once-over, will serve as a cheap and relatively effective masking agent.     

Elsewhere and with the clocks going back, I’ve reached my conclusions regarding the Halo Evura/SP SL9 dynohub build https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/halo-evura-shutter-precision-sl9-dy  and have switched my focus, to the Ugoe 2000 lumen unit and its F100 and R50 counterparts. I prefer to run two rear blinkies. Traditionally, this has been as a contingency-should one power down/fail, there is always a backup.

Strictly speaking (and according to UK law) a flashing rear light, used in isolation is fine, provided it produces at least 4candela. Personally, to remove any wriggle room (read legal loopholes) I run a steady and flashing unit together.

Up front, a high power lamp is mandatory for navigating but I always pair these with a single, flashing blinker. This serves to identify me as a cyclist (rather than moped, or similar vehicle) on the one hand. It also provides some illumination, while stationary at junctions, tackling roundabouts/similar.

In terms of numbers 15 lumens is adequate for town and suburban riding, 25-35lumens for unlit rural work, although 50odd do come in handy in particularly dark/foggy contexts.

Helmet/luggage mounting is useful, but the bike must also sport one, to comply with the law. A technicality perhaps, if you are illuminated like the proverbial Christmas tree on acid. Alas, one readily exploited by a solicitor, in court...

Pit Stops & Component Swaps

Things come in threes. A pronounced lack of braking prowess was traced to a tainted disc-easy purged using a solvent wipe, then my fixed gear winter/trainer’s rear Schwalbe Marathon succumbed a phantom flat.

I decided, wheel out, that this was also time to replace the otherwise likeable KMC X1 with a budget relative-the B1. This is a 112 link nickel plated model, which seems relatively smooth and looks reasonably durable for now. Will look towards a heavy duty, half-link design next time round.

The less slippery plating will hopefully ensure lube will remain within the rollers, rather than migrating to the side plates.  Since the forecast is unseasonably mild, I’ve gone for some Squirt wax lube. Well, it’s closer to an emulsion, the sort that collects contaminant, then flakes off, leaving a filmy, low friction layer behind.

Talking of layers, I’ve reached a firm conclusion re the Crankalicious crisp frame  wax https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/crankalicious-crisp-frame-wax  

Since winter is hard on everything and consumables, can get gobbled at an alarming rate, I’ve acquired a set of Spyre pattern pads. Sods (Murphey’s if we’re being pedantic) law dictates that the OEM pads will suddenly wear to their minimum, just when I’ve none in!  I’ve also renewed the front Jagwire cable in favour of the Jagwire Pro-Road, since the existing set up, though very efficient was showing signs of fraying.

Serendipity had brought this BBB flex ribbon bar wrap to my doorstep. This is a gel impregnated polyurethane, designed to insulate against vibration, while providing excellent grip. The green was pot luck, chosen by windwave, their UK importer but coordinates surprisingly well with the Upso Stirling https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/upso-stirling-seat-pack , blue/grey livery and of course, the celeste cable.

The coming months will confirm how good the flex ribbon, especially compared with polymers and silicones https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/genetic-silicone-bar-wrap . The former, though very good in terms of comfort and grip, are trickier to care for. For example, scrubbing them with a medium stiff brush dipped in a sudsy bucket is a no-no. Assuming of course, you didn’t want to strip the clever coating.    

Reminds me, my MK1 KA’s discs are running a little thin but I’m assured by my friendly local garage that they’re good until the next service. Hub transmissions have always appealed on a similarly sleek, low maintenance basis. I’ve been particularly impressed with Shimano’s Alfine, or the iconic Rohloff.  

Talking of which, this Thorn Raven, Rohloff specific frameset arrived for makeover at Maldon shot blasting & powder coating the other week. This one is TIG welded in Taiwan and to a very high standard, whereas those built by Lee Cooper http://leecoopercycles.webs.com/  were impeccably fillet brazed.   

Staying with bespoke, I’ve done 200miles on John Moss’s wheel build and am really impressed both with the spec and his skill. The Halo white line rim, is a 24mm wide “general purpose model”; designed with gravel, touring and similar duties in mind.

The double wall, box section T10 heat treated, low profile aluminium alloy construction, stainless steel eyelets are the hallmarks of a strong, reliable wheel. Given the spec and brief, Jordan at Ison distribution www.ison-distribution.com  (who also import the Shutter precision hubs) recommended a three cross lace up, which resonates with John’s default, wheel building pattern.

The Shutter precision PD8 disc brake hub is available in a wealth of colours, although considerably smaller in size, compared with more traditional hub dynamos. Inside the compact shell, it’s a 6v 3w output. An ultra-reliable hollow cro-moly axle turns on sealed cartridge bearings.

Turning the hub by hand, there’s some obvious resistance but it’s still pretty unobtrusive and certainly less than I’ve noticed with Shimano’s Ultegra. This remains so, when wired up to a lamp and on the road. A skewer isn’t supplied but in this instance I’ve gone for the Ultegra’s since my Univega sports a Kryptonite locking model, to prevent opportunist pilfering.

Theft of expensive components has become an increasingly prolific problem. That’s not to say, thieves who haven’t been able to foil locks, or cut through street furniture, have come away empty handed but there is a trend for targeting bars stems, forks etc.

Not just in the seamier areas either, although slum neighbourhoods are a bad bet at any time of the day. One option is to have your name, or similar distinguishing marks etched into the component surface. Fine if you didn’t want to sell, or trade them on at a later stage.

Arguably, you wouldn’t put “desirable” higher end contact points on a working bike. Nonetheless, if it’s pretty and non-descript an opportunist with a set of Allen keys may well indulge.  Aftermarket fasteners with unique keys are arguably the most secure option but not so good, if you’re prone to losing stuff. If you are going this route, make sure surfaces don’t provide purchase for pliers and other, simple brute force removal techniques.