Released

 I acquired a tapered carbon fork. Well, one with carbon blades and an alloy steerer specifically. It belonged to a 2016 Raleigh Strada hybrid e-bike, so had the overbuild I was looking for on a cross/gravel type concept. Probing questions confirmed the owner had switched to a suspension model and wasn’t passing on something crash-damaged.  

There were the usual, superficial marks I’d expect to find on a used fork. Easily re-touched with some high build marine primer and the right colour coat. However, I couldn’t shift the crown race and I’m guessing the original owner couldn’t either in retrospect. I’d tried with my crown race remover and after three attempts decided I ran greater risk of damage.  

Cue an email to Mick Madgett at Madgetts Cycles about (madgettscycles.com) to solicit his advice.

He commented this was increasingly common on “integrated” designs where the sealed bearing race fits directly atop. This doesn’t apply to the forks in question but nonetheless he was happy to perform an exorcism. Done for the princely sum of £5. I do most work myself but sometimes it’s about knowing when to pack up and ask for help-better to outsource something rather than damage stuff or do a bad job.   

Crown race removed, I applied some high-build primer to some minor chips and left curing. Research suggests it’s “Red lilac”. A matt lilac by my reckoning but we'll see...  

Less apocalyptic conditions presented an opportunity to throw a leg over the fixed gear winter/trainer for some faster-tempo road fun. Interesting that the fixed and Ursula have, to a lesser extent, switched identities.  

The fixed reverting to a more traditional road-biased trainer, Ursula a Monster Crosser. None the worse for it, either.  That said; I’ve not reverted to traditional chrome plastics. Elegant and effective they undeniably are, they also make roadside wheel removal trickier, especially when light’s fading and temperature’s tanking. 

  

This shouldn’t be interpreted as me rebuffing the concept of single speed cyclo crossers. Simple, lightweight, and easy to maintain-especially in boggy conditions where you’ll be shouldering/otherwise carrying the bike. Hmm, yes, I’m thinking 4130 double butted Cro-moly frame, carbon fork, clearance for 700x43 tyres (and mud) 120mm spacing, flip/flop (fixed/freewheel) hub, cantilever brakes, beefy track chain. Halo hubs have always impressed me, particularly their TK units. I’ve one still going very strong, with only a recent rebuild (new bearings and axle) in fourteen years.  

Old school grassroots racing- enough components of the correct quality to make everything go, stop and handle in good proportion. However, nothing unnecessarily exotic...  

Anyhow, I’ve been enjoying the fixed’s friskier persona, the comfort of soft-shell jackets and winter weight gloves. The Altura All Roads have been my defaults, although I’m also quite taken with these Bodylite Gear Reflective Winter Gloves.  

Comparisons with the Pro-Viz Reflect 360 PROVIZ REFLECT 360 CYCLING GLOVES | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) are perhaps inevitable. They are quite similar, although the Pro-Viz employ hook and loop cuffs, which offer a more tailored fit. Both (and this applies to commuter biased gloves in the broad strokes sense) are a little shallow in the cuffs, which doesn’t provide the best overlapping seal with jerseys and jackets.  

Moans aside, they’re proving warm and waterproof- provided you don’t dunk them to the cuff line, offer excellent grip wet, or dry and damping is also impressive-even off road.  

Following my episodes with erratic CO2 cannisters- not brand specific, by any means, I am contemplating resurrecting and carrying this Fumpa Pump FUMPA PUMP | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) mini compressor system on longer, colder rides. Contexts where I just want to get going again, with minimal fuss, or delay-especially with larger volume tyres. 

Rain and standing water finally consumed the Muc Off –50 chain lube- indicated by a gritty, slightly arthritic sound as I powered the last couple of miles home.

I’ve stripped the remnants and applied the SKS Lube Your Chain as it’s durable and the bottle was almost depleted. I’m continuing to be impressed by the stability and convenience of the Topeak Flashstand eUp. Great for those little jobs where a more traditional work stand is inconvenient. Being designed for the greater heft of e-bikes, its very steady-pulling cables through, binding bar tape etc won’t cause any worrisome wobbling. The Maxxis Re Fuse finally succumbed to a flat. It was one of the wettest rides, roads a carpet of mulch, leaves and muddy silt and I suspect a flint of something had burrowed inside the casing (although curiously, I couldn’t trace it). Mercifully, it had the good grace to hit once I’d got home-especially since it bit the rear- not surprising, given that’s where there’s most weight. A small nick in the tube and away from the seam, so another easy fix.

I saw this as an opportunity to switch to the CST Xpedium 6, which are a very durable, belt n’ braces model with an aramid belt running bead to bead. Sizing might be a deal breaker for some- 35 or 42mm being the only options. Clearance in the fixed gear winter/trainer’s rear triangle isn’t in fag paper territory but the limits of what I’m comfortable with. I added another spare tube to the rack bag, as a precaution. I also dug out the Schwalbe Ice Spiker since the red top press is predicting heavy snowfall sooner, rather than later.   Right, I'll close here with a Black Friday deal from my friends at CST tyres https://shop.cst-tyres.co.uk/

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Fast Fifty

 I’ve crossed over into five-decade county and it’s been a cause for much reflection. 37 years since I took delivery of a Holdsworthy Claud Butler I’d been lusting after for a summer-I'd go and “visit” it every weekend that summer. My parents had a colleague who was in his early 60s but could’ve passed for late 30s. A lifelong racing cyclist, he’d often commute to work and then do a “fast fifty” on the route home. Several scoffed at this, until one sceptic happened to follow him and his curly stay Hetchins Hetchins Cycles (classiclightweights.co.uk) in their car.  

There are a lot of myths surrounding the Hetchins curly stays and ornate lugwork, some suggesting the curly stays would spring out and become a structurally sound straight tubed frameset following an impact...The real reasoning for those swoopy stays and fancy lugs was to subvert advertising rules of the post-war period.  

Now, I’m the first to admit they’re beautiful, masterpieces, even but while I admire them, they’re a just that bit too flamboyant for my tastes. Those lugs and other detailing also add a few grams over a more traditional frameset- if that’s important to you. Concepts and standardisation come and go. My frames are older, for starters- the youngest being from 2005, so sport uniform 1& 1/8th, rather than tapered head tubes and therefore, forks.  

The main argument in favour of tapered head tubes (1/18th top, 1.5 bottom) is that a wider fork steerer result in a more responsive, engaging ride without feeling unduly harsh. It also allows a larger downtube, improving rigidity and therefore, on paper at least, efficiency. Now, trend has been for internal cable routing, which seems to be encouraging a shift back to uniform, or strait steerers, albeit larger diameter. Frames with tapered head tubes can run “standard” straight 1/18th forks using a crown race reducer, so not overly problematic.  

Sadly, although not unexpectedly I’m noticing an increase in insolvencies within the UK’s small cycle industry, which is worrying and saddening in equal measure. Much of this seems attributable to Brexit and related trading issues-something that was inevitable to anyone with a basic understanding of economics and to a lesser extent, international trade.  

The less money in people’s pockets, the less taxation there is to fund everyday services, less disposable incomes mean other industries also suffer and so the cycle continues. Hopefully, favourable rescue packages can be secured. Rides allow me to reflect and unload and the dark’s perfect for this kind of processing.  

Back to tech talk, it’s no secret that I love winter booties for warm, dry feet. My preference has always been for mtb versions, if for no other reason than recessed cleats. The ability to walk, rather than hobble is infinitely preferable, especially during winter when roads are wet, greasy and often icy.  

Then of course, I default to SPD pedals and like riding off-road. I recall a small minority of riders in the late 80’s using LOOK pedal systems on the trails but despite my quirks, not an avenue I took.   

I’ve run the FLR Defender FLR DEFENDER MTB DRY BOOT | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) for three seasons, through snow, ice, bitter cold and sometimes high water. For a budget model, they perform well but though the design’s wraparound Velcro closure is convenient-especially in winter weight gloves and has relaxed over time, the cut means it can lift allowing water and snow to creep inside. I’ve returned to them, with the advent of storm Babet and was curious whether their bulk might catch on the Topeak Hide n’ Tool.  

The latter’s been a moot point. I was also curious how the FLR would compare with Shimano’s price point rivals, the SH-MW501. These employ a water-repelling outer laying and plentiful retro-reflective technology, which bridges the gap between winter road and mountain biking duties. Beneath, big S has opted for a speed lace system, so it’ll be interesting to see whether this is a better, weather-cheating system.  

The rubberised outer sole is less aggressive than some and doesn’t have drillings for studs- the FLR Defender do. However, in practice, I’ve only found these necessary in the boggiest of conditions. The Shimano are yet to arrive but childlike anticipation aside, that’s not an issue-we're only just entering the wetter, colder season...I’ll close with Steve’s review of the Ergon IP Touring Solestar Insole Ergon IP Touring Solestar Insole | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com)  and my test of the Topeak Redlite Aero USB Rear Light Topeak Redlite Aero USB Rear Light | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com)