Workshop Wins

 March arrived and I decided it was time to inspect the Teenage Dream, so it would be ready for the sunnier, drier roads. Old school freewheels like to be lubricated annually, so I drizzled some Weldtite TF2 All Weather Lube with Teflon into the mechanism while the wheel was spinning at a decent velocity.  

There was also the distinct possibility that it could be nearing the end of its life. With this in mind, I thought it best to get something in stock, just in case I needed to switch. Besides, the last thing I wanted was the Regina to blow its guts miles from home.  

Happened to a friend during my teens. Belting along a 1 in 7, there was a steady tinkling as 100 bearings made their bid for freedom, bouncing across the tarmac. Now, I can appreciate why some folks rebuild a treasured example-either out of sentiment, or to stretch themselves. Kudos to them, too. However, it’s not something I’m prepared to do, unless absolutely essential.  

IRD still make some very pretty screw-on freewheels but a little steep for my needs. If I were doing big mileages, maybe. However, the Teenage Dream is very much a sunny days’ plaything. Nostalgia comes at a price, and I wasn’t prepared to fork out retro money for another, used Regina BX.  

After some deliberation and research, I decided this inexpensive electroplated Sun Race was the way forward. I’d also heard good things from someone who’d ridden a couple of Eroica events with theirs.  

For the time being, I’ll see what magic the Weldtite TF2 All Weather can work, before switching to the 14-24 Sun Race. Now, this will be a little under-geared for some and in some respects, I’d agree. However, screw-on freewheels aren’t so readily available, so choice of ratios follows suit.  Slightly lower ratios won’t do my knees any harm and should also mean more time on the 53 ring.   

I’d expressed an interest in testing the CST Cito tyres. These are 170tpi folders and offered in 25, or 28mm (about 1.1 in) sections. Given the Teenage dream’s clearances, I went for the 25mm (about 0.98 in), which tip the scales at a feathery 252g apiece. They also feature the same EPS puncture-resistant technology as the Pika CST Pika Gravel Tyres | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com).   

This is essentially an added layer of proprietary rubberised Poly fiber between the tread and the casing. A system, which is designed to offer the best balance between ride quality and puncture resistance. I’ve had one flat with the Pika, but that was using a TPU tube, and I couldn’t find anything embedded, suggesting it was a hedge clipping that had just grazed it.

  

I also switched from the Lezyne Road drive pump in favour of Ursula’s Lezyne, since this rather fetching Topeak Gravel2 had arrived for testing (and was arguably a better fit for the tubby tourer). An ideal opportunity to add a lick of Peaty’s Bicycle Assembly Grease, to the bottle mounting hardware.   

 

We weren’t done there. I’d been wanting to fit a Stronglight A9 headset to the Dawes Edge frameset.  

I was concerned about the fork falling and getting damaged, so coupling the two, then popping some plumbers lagging around the tubes made for safer storage. Thankfully, I still have traditional headset spanners- a Campagnolo and a pair of BBB. I’d had the Campagnolo for over thirty years and the wallet-friendly, yet accurately machined BBB were sent to me for review fourteen years back.   

Bit of an Easter Egg Hunt but similarly satisfying-found them in two boxes.  Nice when a plan comes together. Headset was treated to some of the Juice Lubes Bearing Juice I used to pack the XT and Deore hubs.  

I also treated the frame to some internal preserve and the paint to a liberal waxing using this Naked Bikes Pro Wax Special Edition NAKED BIKES PRO WAX SPECIAL EDITION | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) and checked some of the frame threads, since I was in the mood. Now was the time, after all.  

Talking of threads, I decided it was time to exorcise the 16-tooth Ti track sprocket that had been wedded to the Halo fixed hub for a decade. Given the neglect and constant exposure to wet, wintry roads, I feared it was right royally stuck, or release would take the hub’s threads too. A liberal helping of penetrant spray was left for a minute to marinate.  

I introduced these Feedback Sports Cassette pliers and heaved anti-clockwise. I’d assumed the priest performing an exorcism stance. You know the one, verbally commanding the demons free. It was either going to relent, or I was going to expire... Movement came suddenly, yet predictably, inducing an elated cheer.  

I spun the sprocket free, cleaned the threads and applied a sensible amount of Peaty’s Bicycle Assembly Grease PEATY'S BICYCLE ASSEMBLY GREASE | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) before spinning it back in situ. Snugged tight, the fixed’s spare wheel is now right and ready to go. Seems the temperatures are bombing again, so best I get Ursula’s spikes back on...Schwalbe Ice Spiker Pro Tyres | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) and reflect on whether it’s time to for sintered pads DiscoBrakes Sintered Brake Pads | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com)  

Mount Musing

 Something drew me to reflect upon the TRP HYRD calliper, which was languishing in the brake box. Perhaps this was prompted by my MK1 Ford Ka’s intermittently flickering brake warning light, maybe it was my elevated blood pressure being approached by people wanting me to work for free...I’ve concluded it’s my dislike of unfinished projects and on a wider level, loose ends generally. 

I don’t know everything and never will. Those who do not ask questions, do not learn...Custom, CNC machined brackets suddenly became the only idea until someone helpfully suggested a flat to IS mount adaptor.  

Fingers to keyboard, I dodged anything from the virtual flea markets since these are a lottery at the best of times. Even if they materialise accuracy of machining is often incredibly poor, so money may as well be tossed down the drain. This cheap but cheery A2Z cost a few pennies more but turned up within a few days. Alas, it also proved incompatible. Back to the drawing board. 

Another source of this inspiration was my contemplation of taking Ursula the rear disc route, too. Frame builders generally advise against this, or at least show reticence to braze mounts to steel framesets of this era. I’m certainly not going to risk a frame’s integrity or persuade a skilled frame builder to do something they are not comfortable executing. Add to that, the cost of otherwise unnecessary refinishing and the juice isn’t worth the squeeze.   

There’s a trend for converting older mountain bikes to gravel builds, complete with disc mounts and 700c tyres. Some of them are nicely, dare I say, sympathetically executed, akin to other subtle conversions. Winter trainers, or cyclocross rigs to lightweight touring/audax, older cross-country mountain bikes to drop bar tourers, or four seasons’ workhorses being good examples.  

Others, involving cutting brake bridges out to entertain bigger section 700c tyres are, in my view, extreme butchery. Rather akin to chopping houses into flats, where bodged electrics, plumbing and cheap materials seem par for the course. In case you were curious, a more traditional cyclo cross typical 32mm seems viable with 26inch mountain bike framesets.   

Back to disc brake conversion adaptors, most off-the-peg adaptors seem crude, horrible affairs.  

The only exception I’ve seen is the Brake Therapy Disc Brake Conversion Kit. However, this is no longer in production. If I found or was offered one at the right price, maybe. Otherwise, cantilevers stay. 

I replaced the straddle wire that had begun fraying while doing some other routine maintenance... This time, I’d gone for a premium quality Dia Tech wire, which, in my experience, are less prone to fraying-although super glue, crimp, or solder the ends. Powerful, progressive braking restored. Not that I engage the rear brake very often, but I like things at their best, not just operational.   

Staying with Dia Tech, I’d noted a slight tendency for Ursula’s Aheadset bearings to slacken very slightly after a few hundred miles. I concluded the best way to sort this was to reintroduce a Dia Tech cable hanger cum locking spacer.  

This works to add some additional tension, just requires a more precise adjustment, when setting the preload. I also cleaned the fork steerer and added a quick lick of grease to the upper bearing, since the opportunity presented itself.   To date, this seems to have addressed the issue. Little things, eh. 

Cooler weather gave cause for a rummage in the wardrobe, resulting in a few exclamations of “Wonder where that went!”. Most noteworthy being this DHB   Aeron Rain Defence Polartec Jacket. It’s a water-resistant softshell design reckoned ideal for temperatures between 8 and 15 degrees, but I’ve been pleasantly surprised by how comfortable it’s been in temperatures between 1 and 3 degrees. Admittedly, I’ve worn this Oxford Venture Windproof Gilet atop OXFORD VENTURE WINDPROOF GILET | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) A good combination, paired with a decent quality long sleeve base layer. 

  

The sudden dip in temperature has also presented opportunity to get some miles in with the Carnac Reflective Waterproof Crab Hand Winter Gloves. Perfectly temperate between 0 and 5 degrees (I’ve worn them up to 10 degrees, but by that point, my hands were feeling a little clammy. They’re also more dexterous than I was expecting. Keys, torches and similar essentials have been easily retrieved and operated. This isn’t my experience with the more extreme “lobster mitt” types. I like these in terms of warmth, but the lack of dexterity, for me is a big turn off.  Right, time I was rounding up the buckets, brushes and bike washes ...Oh and here's my review of the Muc Off All Weather Chain Lube Muc-Off All Weather Chain Lube | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com)