Spitting the Dummy

Having updated the old girls’ transmission, some might say, bringing it into the 21st century, Ursula decided she wasn’t impressed with the KMC and wanted something more refined. A sentiment palpable when said chain imploded 200 metres from home. Some pondering followed by fevered rummaging in the transmission box unearthed this gold superlight model. 

 

One which also feels more robust than the KMC. Of the two joining systems, I much prefer connecting pins over quick links. Both need to be replaced when you’ve performed a removal but being as I tend to get 1250miles from a chain and rarely remove, I’ll stick to cleaning it in situ. 

Performing well thus far, long may it continue. I ran it on the factory lube during the “shakedown” period but went over to the Squirt Cold weather chain lube, since conditions are relevant.  While doing a supermarket run, I happened upon this brush, which looked the right profile for scrubbing chains and cassettes.  

Now, there are some people who dogmatically insist that household cleaning products are the answer to everything. Until of course, the harsh kitchen cleaner dulls expensive finishes and/or damages small components, such as seals. I do, however, recognise there are some useful crossovers. Beeswax furniture polishes being one of my favourite staples. Will be interesting to see how effective and moreover, durable this bargain-basement brush is.

   

As for the gearing, well, it’s a little lower than I might consider ideal for tarmac duties but “spin out” hasn’t been an issue thus far. Some would argue in favour of 2x10 but the whole point of going the 1X route, was a lack of complication while shaving a few grams into the bargain.  

I’m contemplating a planned upgrade of the rear wheel, while we’re at the phased replacement, rather than obligatory stage. The Deore hub is inexpensive and generally reliable but if I’m going to upgrade the hub, I may as well upgrade the complete wheel, since the inexpensive rim will be showing some signs of wear and penny-pinching costs more in terms of time hassle and ultimately, money.     

Drive pins tend to be the weakest spot on multi-tools. The KMC claimed that belonging to this cheerful Topeak Alien Homage. For the time being, I’ve switched to a Crank Brothers F15, which boasts a fair complement of tools catering for most situations.  

However, I still need a 6,8 and 10mm socket wrench to tackle the bike’s corresponding fasteners-brake straddle wires, specifically. The more obvious thing would be to carry a stand-alone chain tool, but I don’t fancy the additional heft and annoying tool kit percussion.  

A reminder to perform regular tool/spares inventories, rather than getting caught out on a cold, dark and rainy night...Talking of which, I’ve reached my conclusions regarding the Ravemen CLO5 Sensored Rear Light RAVEMEN CL05 SENSORED REAR LIGHT | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) 

If you need a model with a braking function, its bigger brother, the CLO6 RAVEMEN CL06 SENSORED REAR LIGHT | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) I’m really fond of both units and find them more than adequate for the darkest lanes. Neither employ an official daylight running mode, which may be a deal-breaker for some, although I still find their presence quite useful, especially on overcast days.  

It's been chill here, by UK standards-single figures, so I have stuck with the FLR Defender MTB Thermal Dry S-Tex Boot.FLR DEFENDER MTB DRY BOOT | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) I usually don a heavier weight gilet, atop a jersey cum jacket type layer to block invasive wind chill. 

Chill that can otherwise result in a lingering and painful chest infection. March can be a tricky month weather-wise. Conditions where easily packable gilets, arm warmers, glove liners, etc can make all the difference to rider comfort.   

     

 

Cranksets & Calculations

The Deore Crankset arrived and with a 32tooth front ring and 12-28 cassette, gives a range between 29.4 and 69.44 inches. A little low at the upper end for tarmac terrorism and catching riders, but plenty of torque for trailer towing and gravel stuff.  

Ideally, I’d be looking towards something in the high 70s. Will stick with it for now, unless a suitable, closer spaced option presents. 11-25 would give 33.0-74.9, which is arguably a better option. I took this opportunity to replace the chain and deep clean the drivetrain, since the existing KMC had done 1,000 plus. Besides there’s no sense in prematurely wearing cassette and new ring. I also noted that, despite the nickel finish and being fed wet lubes, it had become quite stiff and showed the ominous orange taint.   

Wintry conditions largely gone and while waiting for the new crankset, I whipped the Univega’s wheels out, given the frameset a more thorough waxing of its intimate areas and switched to the Schwalbe Billy Bonkers.

  

This also presented the ideal opportunity to give banish the congealed gloop, clinging to the cassette and Sun Race derailleur’s jockey wheels, using this Squirt Bike Cleaner Concentrate. Thankfully, the oily residue had done a good job of preserving the finish, so no call for the M16 Ride & shine M16 RIDE & SHINE | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) 

I’ve been getting the miles in on the fixed. Switching the Schwalbe Marathon Plus for the 42mm Continental Contact was a sensible move and I ordered replacement ceramic pads for its TRP Spyre stopper, so they’re in stock, when replacement’s next due.  

The Zefal Z11 bag is proving a very useful addition. Minimal sway (which is unusual for the bigger models, especially those tethering to the post via a single strap). The larger breed also doubles as a decent mudguard, protecting saddles and buttocks from cold, wet, slimy stuff.  

On the theme of transmissions, I’d returned from a ride, intending to simply tweak the chain tension, when I discovered some issues with the Fix-G HALO FIX G TRACK HUB | Seven Day Cyclist Tourin Tests Commuting side of the hub. Horsef*ckers! No matter, I switched back to the Aerorage wheel, until I’ve time to assess things properly.  

Oh well, might as well, give the transmission a good blitz, then feed it Squirt Low-Temperature Wax Chain Lube. Talking of the concentrate, this can be applied neat, as a degreaser, or diluted to make a bike wash.  

I’ve decanted neat into a chain cleaner receptacle, a 30/70 concentrate/water mix as a winter weight/early season bike wash. Like many concentrates, it can be applied to (a) the drivetrain via brush/chain bath, left for a few minutes, then agitated and rinsed. Or (b) poured over parts and left marinating for a few hours/overnight. This version pours easily in cold weather-noticeably so, compared with its otherwise impressive standard counterpart. SQUIRT LONG LASTING DRY CHAIN LUBE | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com)  

Wax formulas aren’t the obvious choice for cold, wintry conditions. Indeed, I would reserve most for spring/summer. However, this low-temperature blend stoked my curiosity. Similarly, while wet lubes are the obvious default for wet/wintry conditions, they can also attract a fair bit of gunk.  

Purging this regularly (as you should) can be a tedious chore. Ignore it and there’s a very real risk of it grinding through expensive rings, cassettes, derailleur jockey wheels (and even cages). Waxy types require longer curing times but will simply scab off when leaden with contaminants. 

No need to scrub, or clean, just apply another layer and leave to cure.   

As the photos illustrate, I’ve gone this route with Ursula’s new chain, since I was there.  Also switched back to the Ravemen CLO6 Sensored Rear Light.RAVEMEN CL06 SENSORED REAR LIGHT | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) Fancied a formative “shakedown” blast to see how the new drivetrain components behaved and its CLO5 counterpart needed a charge.