Suddenly September

 

September has arrived, with different, though very positive energy. Some people feel a sense of sadness, as the leaves turn auburn but for me, it’s always been a time of optimism. From a journalist’s perspective, it’s time for trade shows and exciting new kit.

Testing takes on a new dimension too. The weather is still temperate and relatively kind to components, yet changeable enough to keep things interesting. Longer, steady night rides, or the usual routes take on a new character, with changing light and temperature. That said; conditions still permit lightweight, friction busting, dirt phobic chain lubes. Since we’re on the subject, the Weldtite TF2 Ultra dry wax is holding up pretty well and as I’d expect, running very clean.

There’s no such thing as the wrong weather, rather it’s the wrong kit.

Twenty years ago, high power rechargeable lights commended £200. No longer does this mean a heavy lead acid battery that consumed a bottle cage. A 900 lumen compact torch light, such as this Xeccon spear costs less than £60 and in the highest setting, will still run for 90minutes from a fully juiced 2600amh, replaceable cell.

At the other extreme, there’s a town friendly, cell sipping 230 lumen mode, reckoned to deliver 6hrs 30 minutes from a full charge. I haven’t verified this, or the claims of 35 hours in strobe. Now, I’m fully aware that auction site specials, capable of twice this output (on paper) fuelled by relatively small lithium ion battery packs, can be had for £20.

Sure, they’re bright but the quality of output isn’t necessarily that good, thanks to basic lens and reflector. Similarly, although many are offering a 500lumen and strobe settings, the former is still overkill for suburban contexts. Again, being someone who does a lot of miles along pitch black lanes, I’m intrigued by those boasting big numbers.

I was particularly impressed last year, by Moon meteor storm pro https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/moon-meteor-storm-pro-front-light The Xeccon spear is very reminiscent of Moon LX760 that we also tested in Seven Day Cyclist last autumn. https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/moon-lx760-front-light  It uses the same Cree XM2 diode and follows a similar shape. However, they are two very distinct lights.

Some folks suggest this genre have off road potential. In the sense of a quick forest or tow path short cut, perhaps. However, the hybrid spot and floods beam is best for asphalt. Stay tuned to Seven Day Cyclist www.sevendaycyclist.com for a full and conclusive response. Elsewhere, at the other end, I’ve been warming to the Xeccon Mars 60.

It’s termed a smart light and you’d be forgiven for thinking it was 60 lumens. There’s truth in both statements but it’s a bit more complex. Smart refers to the “Braking” function.

Regardless, which of the five modes you’ve chosen, it detects motion. Slowing down defaults to the 60lumen, steady mode, which is very intense at close quarters. Outside of that, 40 lumens is tops and more than sufficient for open roads. 20, or erven 10 is more appropriate for town, especially given the braking default I’ve just mentioned.

Elsewhere, September/October are prime times for bike prep. Give frames and components a decent helping of high quality wax preserve, ditto shoes, saddles. There’s been sufficient precipitation, the odd storm too, giving me the opportunity to see just how effective the Crankalicious leather lacquer and crisp frame hybrid frame wax are.

Both are convenient, dare I say, nice to apply. Crisp is reckoned to last 4months between applications. That’s true of many formulas-perfect when bikes are being put into seasonal hibernation, or during less taxing riding conditions, so I’m looking forward to seeing just how it holds up. 

Metal frames also benefit from a moderate helping of internal, oil based preserve. Commercially available aerosols are convenient and for the most part, very effective. They are cheap to manufacture and recipes vary.

Mine, developed over the past twenty three years; is made from old/job lot candles, solvent and semi synthetic motor oil. A small quantity poured inside the seat tube, distributed evenly around the frame’s inner sanctum should be sufficient.

Adding more solvent will achieve a spray able consistency but since I also use it to preserve my mk1 KA’s chassis and underside, the brush-on blend goes further, creates less clean up and ultimately, suits my purposes best.

Bearing in mind, these can also seal moisture in (the last thing you want) they should only be applied while the days are relatively temperate and arid. DISCLAIMER Such “metal medicine” is made and used entirely at your own risk. I will not be held responsible for any accident/damage however caused. If in doubt, buy commercially available products and seek professional advice.

Carbon composites don’t corrode, or deteriorate in the same fashion but they are very effective conductors. Bottom bracket sleeves, derailleur hangers and other areas are typically aluminium alloy.

Aside from treating painted and lacquered surfaces to decent quality waxes, strip the headset, bottom bracket, derailleur and skewers. Treat these to a stout, high quality ceramic/polymer grease to prevent galvanic corrosion (seizure of different metals) and other unnecessary misery later on.  

Petrochemicals aren’t kind to rubberised seals, or suspension linkages either. I’ve found a drop of Green Oil slip https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/green-oil-slip-eco-lubricant https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/green-oil-eco-spray-lube, or their eco-spray lube, perfect for small bushings/similar components.  On that note, I’m off to prepare for a trade show and put some more lights through their paces.                

Wheels of Fortune

This Shutter Precision SP8 dynohub has just arrived on Seven Day Cyclist’s test bench https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/blank-tyhn0 I’m very eager to see how it compares to my benchmark, Shimano Ultegra unit, which offers nominal drag and consistency of output. 

The PD8 nudges 400g and is surprisingly compact. 6v 3 watt output is pretty much what I’d expect from this price point, as are sealed bearings and low drag.

Paired to an exposure lamp, my Ultegra unit is good enough for light trail and dirt road duties too. Big S’s lowlier Nexus was my first, hands-on experience of hub dynamos. Inexpensive and adequate for commuting and general riding, provided you were preoccupied with being seen, rather than navigating with.

There’s no doubt it repaid the modest investment many times over. I paid a friend £80 in total for hub and wheel build back in 2001. Probably the biggest shock (amplified ten fold when compared to the Ultegra) was the hub’s resistance. Maintaining 17/18mph is relatively taxing but again, useful for winter training and moderate commutes.

During this period, high end MTB commanded £200 or so and LEDs, though increasingly better were still emitting a bluish tint and guzzling AA/A cells at a fairly rapid rate. I also liked the enclosure and sleek simplicity of the dynohubs, especially with modern, sealed bearings.

Some riders took that to its most literal, running their Nexus groups into the ground and seemed stunned, when these enslaved units inevitably gave up the ghost. Prior to that, my dynamo experience was a tyre driven Union model. This was light, cheap and very much of the yellow glimmer variety. Something similarly crude, equally dependable but more powerful was attached to a friend’s workhorse tandem.

Economical and, generally reliable so long as you’d routed the wiring carefully-these were cable tied and stuck to the mudguard’s underside using electrical tape. No problems with blown bulbs either, which was quite impressive given the speeds achieved on some descents. There’s also something deeply satisfying about generating your own lighting.

Aside from output and quality, dynamos have become increasingly sophisticated, capable of charging phones and other tech, which we are becoming increasingly reliant upon. Addicted is a loaded term and like any sweeping statement, inaccurate by definition. As a journalist, I’m fascinated by technology, shiny stuff and developments-even if it’s not necessarily “my” thing.

There’s a tendency, quirk of the human condition to reduce things to right and wrong. I believe there is the right tool for the job. Staying with bikes for a moment, anyone who has worked in a bike shop will know; one of the most common questions asked is “What’s the best bike”.

My response has always been along the lines of “The best bike is the one that does exactly what you want it to do”. My Univega is a go-anywhere, mile munching load lugging workhorse built for bad weather, rough roads, lighting on tap.

A rider of comparable strength riding a road biased machine will blow me into the weeds. Similarly and at the other extreme, my Holdsworth is built for sunny days’ speed and I’ve caught a fair few riders by surprise-especially on the climbs. I am also someone who can go ten miles on (very) controlled rage alone.

Money has always been a very finite resource, so I’ve become very resourceful, dare I say creative in how I manage these projects, often employing a system of barter and/or swapping unused and unwanted kit for something more appropriate.

Cameras and cars follow in a similar tradition. I was once queried about my attachment to Sony’s A mount (I also run the NEX E mount systems. These have some limitations but are very handy for street photography and candid wedding portraiture). 

Sony digital bodies, (sometimes referred to as Minolta) were an obvious transition after my Minolta film cameras and several lenses were destroyed in an “accident”. I was waiting at a red light when someone skillfully drove their car into the back of my borrowed red Kawasaki, killing it, cameras and leaving me trapped, in an undignified, leather clad heap. Talking of which, though from a totally different context; Crankalicious have sent me their pump spray leather lacquer and crisp frame hybrid frame wax.

The former isn’t a hide food in the traditional sense, so treat saddles, shoes, handlebar wrap requiring nourishment should get that first. However, leather lacquer will provide a water repelling, grippy barrier, protecting the hide, while improving purchase in the wet. Initial impressions are favourable. I generally give saddles and other leather kit a light proofing, every six weeks.

The crisp frame hybrid frame wax is, as its name suggests, a blend of synthetic and naturally occurring waxes. It’s a solid type, which minimises wastage, though is surprisingly nice to administer. It’ll assume a haze once cured and gives glossy results when buffed lightly. How durable these are, compared with similar potions, will become more apparent as the days become shorter and roads wetter.

 
John Moss is very intrigued by the SP hub. So much so, he's offered to build into a wheel. Help I have gladly accepted. Have my eye on a Halo hoop and suitable 14g stainless spokes; so watch this space...

Feeling The Urge

Project management phase 1 completed and site furniture reclaimed-albeit slowly. The portable toilet was great for Impromptu bike leaning but also enticed an amorous couple in the early hours of Monday morning…

Tempting though it was to sing that immortal verse from “drunken sailor” i.e. “hooray and up she rises!” (Judging by their levels of intoxication, this feat was unlikely). Security light and my reproving silence, saw them slink away into the night.  

I’ve since found time to swap the mighty Halo aerotrak for John Moss’ meticulously crafted Mavic Open Pro build. There’s little margin for error at the MK2 Pompino’s rear triangle, which will just about swallow a 35mm tyre sans (full length) chrome plastics.

This wheel’s been precision tensioned and trued to .1mm-no tyre on chainstay flirtation here. John urged caution during the bedding-in phase but I’m delighted to report unnerving pinging and dinging of spokes under load have remained academic in the past 125 miles.

Hub, though not of the Halo’s calibre, is surprisingly smooth nonetheless. Serendipity…I may switch back to the Halo during the murkier months-purely because of its retina warming charms.

Talking of which and ss August recedes, I’ve been enjoying the longer evenings. Unless I’m doing a dead of night blast along the lanes, a couple of mid-power blinkies and/or a compact front light on standby is optimum.

Until 2100hrs, it’s about being seen, so, up front 200-350 lumens is more than adequate. A system that will dip to 150 round town is better still, conserving reserves until they’re really needed. New season’s lighting is beginning to trickle onto the Seven Day Cyclist test bench and I’ve just taken delivery of Xeccon Mars 30 and Xeccon Mars 60 smart rear lights.

“Intelligent” lighting; units that automatically adjust i.e. becoming more/less intense automatically, according to situations/conditions have been the preserve of higher end models, including See Sense icon plus https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/see-sense-icon-rear-light . Like most technology, elements are starting to creep into the lower price brackets. In this instance, the light supposedly becomes more intense at closer range and under braking.

The 60 is considerably bigger than its 30 lumen sibling and boasts a unique bracket, presumably to cope with the additional size and (relative) weight. To be honest, I’m surprised they haven’t both shared the latter’s bracket, since superficially, it seems a superior design. Time will tell. Both of these employ the increasingly standard, integrated fit n’ forget lithium ion rechargeable cell.

 For general riding and where it’s easy to cadge a charge from mains/laptop/PC these batteries are extremely practical. However, I still firmly believe there’s a place for AA/A fuelled lights. So does Sigma judging by their Stereo model.

This one features two slightly old school 0.5 watt LEDs but is reckoned visible to 400metres. It also comes complete with two rechargeable AAA cells, which can be refuelled in the usual way, or via a more traditional mains charger. Better still, this set up also ensures you can run dry cells; should need arise. On paper, this also means the light isn’t bin fodder, once the OEM cells cash in their chips.

Perfect for touring, or those occasions where you’ve forgotten to charge it. Stop off at your off-licence, supermarket etc, pick up some batteries and you’re back in business. Why not keep a stash handy? That way, you’re fully prepared should the switch cum charge indicator turn red along a dark country lane, 25 miles from home/civilisation.

We’ve also received some Align footwear insoles. https://alignfootwear.uk   Commanding the lion’s share of £50, these are a high end design from Denmark, which uses their patented “Tri-Planar” technology.

This three point support, theoretically aligns the wearer’s foot. Eliminating other, seemingly unrelated pains-knees, hips, shoulder etc. Now, I had a BG (Body Geometry) consultation and fitting by Specialized at their Surrey HQ almost nine years back.

This revealed that my saddle height was 1mm below optimum. While my legs were of identical length, my right femur was longer than the other, resulting in a tendency to lean slightly to the left.

Consequently, shoulder discomfort and other muscular skeletal niggles set in given a few hours. Admittedly, this is exaggerated by other, everyday factors, such as long periods at a laptop and previous knocks sustained during motorcycle and cycling spills.

BG red insoles were prescribed at the time and genuinely improved my riding experience. Will be interesting to see how the Align pan out over the next month, or so. They seem a precision fit in these recently resurrected Scott shoes, which is a good start. I'm genuinely feeling some benefit after 75miles or so but that, could simply be the hawthorn effect at play. Six weeks, 600 miles to go.

Got the Horn!

 

Bells are one of those annoying adornments fitted to new bikes, sold here in the UK. Beyond this particular legislative compulsions, they have little practical use. Inflamed tonsils aside, a well timed greeting, or yell works better (especially in dense, urban traffic) weighs and costs nothing.

A few manufacturers have developed horns, with varying degrees of success. Power, at least in the decibel sense was never a problem but even if the horn component didn’t consume much handlebar, it often gobbled a bottle cage.

Some also proved borderline aggressive-not what’s needed when you want to gently alert pedestrians of your approach, say along a forest trail, or designated shared use path.  Oregon based ORP https://orpland.com/ have kindly sent Seven Day Cyclist www.sevendaycyclist.com the latest version of their little horn, which combines a 5 mode LED light, capable of delivering 140 lumens and two mode horn.  

This blue version is for illustrative purposes only, since ours seem to have been “intercepted” by someone in the postal service. It’s tracked and apparently signed for but not by me, or a representative of.  I digress..

The cube shaped design, encased in a big silicone blanket, is, dimensions-wise, a blinkey on cortisone, so compact enough, even for my Holdsworth’s cockpit. The horn component has two decibel levels commanded by the “whale tail” switch. 76 for polite “I’m approaching” 96 for letting rip on the streets.

There’s an optional "Remorp" bar mounted extension cable, similar to that employed on some lights. The Moon Meteor Storm Pro https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/moon-meteor-storm-pro-front-light and Moon LX760 https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/moon-lx760-front-light being cases in point. For cleanest aesthetic, arguably these should be run beneath the bar wrap.

I’m inclined to go this route, say with super sticky silicones, which don’t feature an adhesive backing, or alternatively, if you change bar wraps seasonally, along with control cables.

There’s a sound rationale’ for doing so, especially if you rack up big mileages. This practice isn’t simply about boosting morale during the darker months, or indeed a desire to buy new stuff. Rather, it could be considered a discipline, presenting the ideal opportunity to inspect contact points for early signs of fatigue.

Elsewhere, I’ve solved the phantom flatting problem with my MK2 Ilpompino build’s rear wheel-the one so meticulously crafted by John Moss a few weeks back. Revisiting with fresh eyes, it seems the rim-tape I’d used had shifted and with realignment, literally disintegrated. Some fresh Schwalbe in situ, new tube and Schwalbe Marathon 365 remounted, pressure’s holding nicely.

I was hoping to run it in, over the next couple of weeks but some other, project management (building works) is making access to my beloved working fixed tricky. Talking of which, I would be interested in trying the V4, which aside from disbanding the wish bone rear triangle, has reputedly adopted a more aggressive geometry-without losing its all weather versatility. http://www.on-one.co.uk/i/q/CBOOPOMPKOJV4/on-one-pompino-v4-drop-bar-urban-bike

Aside from some rather fetching wet spray colours, they’re also offering a raw version with a clear coat finish, which also intrigues me. I’d be interested to see how tough it was, compared with its 2pac counterparts; especially subjected to salty, winter roads.

I’ve had 7005 and 6061 aluminium alloy framesets hold up pretty well in these contexts, although ultimately stone chips allow moisture and condensation to build up beneath the lacquer, causing it to flake and in some cases, minor corrosion en route.    

Access issues and the arrival of the TF2 ultra dry wax has presented the opportunity to get the miles in on my Univega. Some would argue-not without grounds, that dry lubes are not meant for wet weather. I wouldn’t advocate their use during the depths of winter but it’s fair to say that summers are not always arid.

We’d expect a few wet rides and most lubes to remain in situ-especially during the summer months. In common with the Pure dry lube, it seems to be one of those which just attracts less dirt, rather than a self cleaning emulsion type that flakes off, taking contaminant en route. So far I’m impressed with its cleanliness and low friction. Be interesting to see how tenacious it is during a sustained period of changeable weather. 

 

Rides of Rediscovery

  

After several weeks, I woke the Univega from its slumber, swapped the Schwalbe Marathon GT 365 https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/schwalbe-marathon-gt365-tyre for some lighter Michelin Country Rock, the HT Leopard 878 for these Shimano A530 touring pedals and made good my escape along the unlit lanes.

I liked the Country Rock’s sprightly persona over dry, dusty trails but have found the casings vulnerable to sharps. Not just razor sharp thorns but flints too, hence their substitution.

Some riders are more prone to punctures than others. That said; there. Assuming hidden assassins, such as expiring rim tapes, protruding spokes or tyre beads aren’t the root cause, weekly inspection can greatly reduce their frequency.

Some riders swear by goo-filled tubes and I’ve had reasonable results, although find the sealant eventually goes-off. This can gum up the valves, preventing inflation and a nasty cut can see you battling a big old mess by the road, or trailside.  

Brushing the casings after you’ve been through shards of glass prevents them working inside the tyre casings as you ride. Weekly once-overs are the ideal time to give the machine a quick, sudsy bucket wash.

Tickle the casings, using a medium firm brush to dislodge any foreign objects, check the pressures with a reliable gauge and top up as required.

I initially leaned toward some 1.4 inch, wire bead, WTB Allterainasaurus. I’d bought the batch on offer-£14 for two pairs back in 2002 and ran one set on my mtb based Frankenbike cum daily driver.

Not the fastest rubber on asphalt but surprisingly reliable in the wet and I never succumbed to a flat-on, or off road. Narrower profiles also offer surprising bite along wet forest trails-provided you’re not pushing them beyond 18mph.

Quick enough for most, impromptu getaways from the madding crowd.  For the time being, I’ve gone for Schwalbe’s mighty Marathon 365 up front and Kenda’s sprightly small block 8 at the rear.

I like Oxford Products tyre scrub, which lacks the Green Oil eco brush’s versatility https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/oxford-products-tyre-scrub  but is inexpensive and delightful to use. https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/green-oil-bicycle-brush  These also make spotting nicks and minor cuts in the casing that bit easier. Fill any with a drop of superglue and like patched tubes, ideally leave this to cure overnight.   

An unplanned reconfiguration of the garage also unearthed my much loved Cool Tool. Arguably a game changer- the first modern bike specific multi-tool, it featured an adjustable wrench cum cone spanner, 4,5 and 6mm Allen keys, Phillips driver, chain splitter and 13mm socket for cranks. This one belonged to my late father.

A decade since his sudden death, I was relieved to reclaim it from the mischievous garage gremlin. Quaint and of little relevance to contemporary road and mountain bikes. Nonetheless, coupled with a smaller, eight function folding tool, it remains genuinely useful for my fixed gear builds.

Back to the chemical romance. Having tweaked the tubby tourer’s brake pads and arrival of these lubes and greases imminent, I decided then was the ideal opportunity to purge the waning, yet still unexpectedly tenacious existing lubricant. This had formed a lightly congealed glaze across the 9 speed cassette. The sort of fatty residue commonly found on grotty old cookers in bedsit land.

I’m not anti-petrochemicals, rather careful in their deployment, for several good reasons. Being as the “Soviet Block” was hosting a wealth of terracotta pots, I opted for the lawn, which dictates something turf, pet and plant friendly.

Concentrate FS1 seemingly in hiding, a healthy blast of “Mr Whippy” (Fenwick’s foaming chain degreaser) was an obvious alternative. Give the aerosol a vigorous shake and deliver like a roadside ice cream vendor.

Left a minute or so then tickled with a stiff bristled brush and rinsed with clean water, the impacted grime slithered away, revealing gleaming, unsullied electroplate beneath.

Since I’m long-term testing Muc-Off Team Sky Hydrodynamic lube on my ‘cross inspired fixed and Teenage Dream, I’ve dressed the Univega’s in some TF2 ultra dry wax. Be interesting to see how it performs in the real world and against other low friction, clean running wax blends.